I feel like an idiot everytime I try to use the search function on this site :technical:
Where and how much do you have to grind the swingarm for the R6 rear shock swap? Getting ready to do it this weekend and I can't find my previous post where someone already answered that question :oops:
-Jessie
The most I remember seeing in all my recent searching(currently winning one on ebay that's scheduled to end tomorrow, keeping my fingers crossed!), someone just covered that part of their swingarm with some masking tape, tried to install the shock, and then ground down where the tape had been rubbed off. I don't remember anyone actually saying how deep/wide you needed to grind it down.
Is this what you're looking for? :thumb:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=51306.0 (ftp://http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=51306.0)
Quote from: Adfalchius on March 10, 2010, 09:07:04 PM
Is this what you're looking for? :thumb:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=51306.0 (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=51306.0)
Fixed link
Quote from: tt_four on March 10, 2010, 08:49:38 PM
The most I remember seeing in all my recent searching(currently winning one on ebay that's scheduled to end tomorrow, keeping my fingers crossed!), someone just covered that part of their swingarm with some masking tape, tried to install the shock, and then ground down where the tape had been rubbed off. I don't remember anyone actually saying how deep/wide you needed to grind it down.
That is what I did. Taped the shock and swingarm area to see where it hit. But instead of just grinding the swingarm I grinded a little off the bottom coil that was hitting the swingarm also.
It is hard to grind the inside of the swingarm area and I did not want to grind through the arm so a little off on the arm wall and a little of the coil.
Thanks guys, those are what I needed.
I didn't test fit the shock before we tore the bike down so I need some decent pictures/descriptions to see where to grind before the swing arm heads to the powder coater. Am I looking at it correctly that the grinding is done on the bottom of the swing arm? Thanks again :thumb:
-Jessie
Quote from: Adfalchius on March 10, 2010, 09:07:04 PM
Is this what you're looking for? :thumb:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=51306.0 (ftp://http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=51306.0)
the sickest of burns! :cheers:
Sounds like you're going to have a pretty sweet ride once you get it all back together...
this one is Kay's ride, I like stock bikes ;)
-Jessie
I saw it mentioned in a post that you cannot lower the bike once you have an r6 shock. I haven't been able to find any other posts on the topic. Has anybody been able to do this?
Just for reference now that this thread has been brought back. When I installed mine is slid right in no problem. I didn't have to grind anything so give it a shot before you take the grinder to anything. Not sure about lowering it though.
Quote from: tt_four on November 16, 2010, 09:27:53 AM
Just for reference now that this thread has been brought back. When I installed mine is slid right in no problem. I didn't have to grind anything so give it a shot before you take the grinder to anything. Not sure about lowering it though.
Mine did as well... compressing the suspension doesn't cause it to rub either.
I had to grind a little bit. I think I put a pic of my poor grinding skills on here somewhere :icon_lol: Some have been lucky and did not have to. I wish I knew the tape trick back then. I have done 20 000kms on it so far and it has not exploded or done something weird as yet. Good luck with the install.
I did end up having to grind it before I took it to the powdercoaters. I actually just got the bike semi-running last week (my undying gratitude to you, BaltimoreGS and ver4 :bowdown:). The seat height is a little high for my petite frame (the corbin seat contributes to that as well)- so I'm still searching to see if lowering it is an option. Here's a picture of it so far- I'll have to make a proper 'build' post when I have more of it together.
(http://i735.photobucket.com/albums/ww360/jessiedoran/alizar1.jpg)
You can just see a little bit of red that is the r6 shock. So does anybody out there have info regarding lowering it despite this shock? (or I guess I'll find out in a week or two when we monkey with it!)
-K
Which corbin seat is that? Looks different than the one I have on my bike
(http://crecca.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/bikeside.jpg)
Corbin offers two options for GS seats. You have the solo "Gunfighter". I have the "Gunfighter and Lady"- I liked the extra curviness it gave to the back end- I think it helps balance out the flatter design of the sideplastics on my bike.
Quote from: Adfalchius on November 16, 2010, 11:05:14 PM
Corbin offers two options for GS seats. You have the solo "Gunfighter". I have the "Gunfighter and Lady"- I liked the extra curviness it gave to the back end- I think it helps balance out the flatter design of the sideplastics on my bike.
Ah, that'll do it
A good way to test it out for lowering is to make yourself a template for lowering links. If you put the bike on the centerstand, measure from the axle to the tail, and then just use some scrap metal(or go buy a flat steel bar from home depot for $4) and you can cut/drill them slightly longer than the stock links. I in no way would recommend riding the bike like that, but it'll let you lower the rear end to any height you want to try, sit on it a little, and see if the shock is rubbing anything.
I just went ahead and got a pair of Burkhart links: -1.5. They seemed to fit without any issue with the R6 shock, but the problem was that one of the links hit the swingarm (the weld stuck out a little more on one side) and I couldn't bolt it on to really test it out. I noticed that these links were a lot wider than the stock links. BaltimoreGS commented that it might work once I take the bike off the center stand- I'll try fooling around with that.
So, I'm assuming grinding the dogbone is a big no-no, and that under normal circumstances one could just grind the swingarm- too bad it's powdercoated already. I guess the option, if nothing else works, is to get a slimmer link- steel? The Burkhart links cost about $20, has anybody bought something comparable in steel?
-Kay
I have a pair that are thinner steel. They look pretty cheap, but seem like they would work perfectly fine(haven't gotten around to mounting them yet). I'm sure if you look around ebay or somewhere you could find a set.
Question: what are the specific advantages of the R6 shock over the stock shock?
I've just purchased a 1994 GS500E that's in nice running condition. But the suspension is getting a little sacked. I have to replace the fork seals and I'll probably put progressive springs in while I'm at it. I'm torn whether to just buy a new stock rear shock and spring or look at an alternative.
I've seen the R6 mentioned a couple of times but no specifics about what it has over the stock shock.
I should mention that I just turned 64 and am returning to riding after a few years off. My wild and crazy days are well behind me. So I'm just looking for good allround suspension performance. I'm planning to dual-sport the bike a bit .. dual-sport tires, wider bars, reposition the footpegs a little. I'm also already getting a little spoiled by the cushy suspension on my DRZ400SM. So I'll want a suspension that has some compliance for off the pavement. .... Shucks, with the condition of the pavement around here, I'll need some suspension compliance even if I never take it off the pavement!! >:(
...ken...
The R6 shock is fully adjustable for rebound and compression. To be honest though, when I put mine in I just left it on the previous owners setting and preload. I'm sure if I really cared I would mess with it, but it works just as good if not better than the stock sock, and I feel like if I still have the stock front end, there's no needs to be overly concerned with the rear. Most people swap to Katana shocks, which Buddha says is the best option. If you're gonna do some off roading I'd definitely consider something a little stiffer than the stock shock, but otherwise it always worked good enough for me. I just put on the new one to do it.
Thanks tt_four. I love a person who is honest and says they just did it because they wanted to. :thumb:
My DRZ forks and shocks are adjustable for pretty much everything you could possibly adjust. I still have them on the factory setting, except the rear spring preload. I had the dealer put it on the softest setting so when I put a leg over it it settles to where I can get both tiptoes on the ground instead of only one. I didn't adjust the damping to compensate and I can't say I've noticed any difference.
...ken...
Quote from: Adfalchius on December 22, 2010, 09:54:20 PM
I just went ahead and got a pair of Burkhart links: -1.5. They seemed to fit without any issue with the R6 shock, but the problem was that one of the links hit the swingarm (the weld stuck out a little more on one side) and I couldn't bolt it on to really test it out. I noticed that these links were a lot wider than the stock links. BaltimoreGS commented that it might work once I take the bike off the center stand- I'll try fooling around with that.
So, I'm assuming grinding the dogbone is a big no-no, and that under normal circumstances one could just grind the swingarm- too bad it's powdercoated already. I guess the option, if nothing else works, is to get a slimmer link- steel? The Burkhart links cost about $20, has anybody bought something comparable in steel?
-Kay
You sent me over to the garage yesterday to check this out, I've got a pair of the -2" Burkhart links laying on my puter desk and they really look massive compared to the stock links beside them. I've got a pair of the pricey Pingel aluminum links on the bike now and they fall about half way between the stock and the Burkhart links in pure bulk. With the bike on the ctr stand and the wheel hanging I've got about 3/16" clearance now to the swing arm crossmember and so the Burkhart link will use up only about half of that clearance. Those Burkhart links are really much more massive than they need to be in my opinion compared to other aluminum links on the market unless they aren't made of the 6061-T6 aluminum as advertised so I'll file them down smoothly a bit for more clearance if needed when I put them on. I've got almost 5 years and 50k miles on those Pingels now. After I put the bike back down on the ground the clearance looked to be about the same 3/16". I measured the links and recorded the info for my reference or anybody else that can use it:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/LinkDims.jpg
Just an FYI- I did grind the Burkhart links a little where they hit the swingarm. One side had to be smaller than the other - smoothed it out nicely and slapped them back on. Consequently, lowering the bike negated the need to figure out how to rig up a center-stand stop (since I have an after-market exhaust with no stopper).
The R6 shock has a much stiffer spring than the stock shock (~30%) and is going to be much better suited to the weight of most riders. The internal damping design is also significantly better - the R6 is a piggyback type shock, where the stock GS is an emulsion type. The R6 shock is rebuildable, well known, and the shim stack can be easily modified. It's externally adjustable for high speed compression, low speed compression, rebound, and pre-load.
IMO, though... The front end is the biggest weak point of our bikes. You really owe it to yourself to install some sonic springs and change the oil... It's a pretty straightforward job; not much more difficult than swapping a wheel. It's cheap too... The springs and oil can be had for $80-$90.
You also owe it to yourself to have that shock properly tuned - it'll provide a more comfortable rider, better grip, better handling, and it'll make your tires last longer. If you have a local suspension expert, please ride over to see them. Best money you're going to spend on your bike.
+1 for everything burning1 said,
just wanted to add, i just installed my r6 shock today, quite easy, as far as grinding, i used a carbide burr in a die grinder, just had to take off about an eighth of an inch and it cleared perfectly. i would recommend pressing 2mm brass dowel bushings into the lower clevis so the bolt seats properly without play. If you decide to get the bushings you can contact ASB bearings, they are located in connecticut. I do business with them quite often and they are very helpful. Good luck!
Mine bolted in without grinding, but I did have some issues installing a Katana 750 shock. My suggestion, before you grind, would be to stick a pry-bar between the shock and swingarm, and see if you can get the bolt holes to line up. Once the shock is installed, clearance isn't really a concern. A little contact at absolute top-out isn't going to hurt anything.
Quote from: burning1 on May 22, 2011, 10:46:16 PM
Mine bolted in without grinding, but I did have some issues installing a Katana 750 shock. My suggestion, before you grind, would be to stick a pry-bar between the shock and swingarm, and see if you can get the bolt holes to line up. Once the shock is installed, clearance isn't really a concern. A little contact at absolute top-out isn't going to hurt anything.
I don't understand how for some the swingarm does not need to be grinded while for others it does for the R6 shock.
I have the R6 red shock and had to grind a little off the stock swingarm and tthe last bottom coil to get it to fit so that I can insert the dogbone bolts. And I have shorter dogbones than stock since I wanted to rise the rear a little. I had to do this also for the extended swingarm that Jim sent me.
I'm I doing this wrong? When I test fit I have the rear tire off the ground about 2 inches. I would grind until I could fit both the bolts that hold the dogbone in place.
Think about where the spring touches the swingarm. Are you *sure* that raising the rear end is going to ease clearance issues..?
Quote from: burning1 on May 23, 2011, 10:10:58 AM
Think about where the spring touches the swingarm. Are you *sure* that raising the rear end is going to ease clearance issues..?
I think I understand what you are suggesting. I guess with shorter bones the SA would need to swing down lower than stock height in order to line up with the bolt holes and so it hits on the last coil. Otherwise it should be maybe 1/4 to 1/5 inch higher. Correct?
Spot on the nose. The bottom coils of the shock contact the lowest edge of the swing-arm in the fully extended position. Shorter links move the swingarm further down it's stroke, making the problem worse. Longer links will tend to lower the rear end and make the problem better. If your linkage/swingarm are stock, I'd be very surprised to find that you have clearance issues.
BTW... I would be interested in procuring some raising links for the GS. I'd like to bring the rear end up 10-15mm for cornering clearance and handling. Any idea where I could find something like that?
Quote from: burning1 on May 23, 2011, 12:48:47 PM
Spot on the nose. The bottom coils of the shock contact the lowest edge of the swing-arm in the fully extended position. Shorter links move the swingarm further down it's stroke, making the problem worse. Longer links will tend to lower the rear end and make the problem better. If your linkage/swingarm are stock, I'd be very surprised to find that you have clearance issues.
BTW... I would be interested in procuring some raising links for the GS. I'd like to bring the rear end up 10-15mm for cornering clearance and handling. Any idea where I could find something like that?
Got mine off ebay..they have them for different heights...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Raising-Riser-kit-GS500-GS-500-All-Years-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem41474afddaQQitemZ280368971226QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
or if you want adjustable ones...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuki-GS500-Adjustable-Lowering-Links-Link-Kit-GS-500-/180660500701?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a103478dd
Thanks. The 5/8" kit looks like it would meet my needs perfectly. I'm not sure I'd trust an adjustable kit - I've had trouble with adjustable parts coming out of adjustment on my bike.
Which links did you install, that created clearance issues? I'd rather not grind if I can avoid it.
I think I have the 1.25" or the 2" one. Definitely not the 5/8" one.
Got it. :)
5/8 is more than enough for me. :)
Hello.. I just wanted to know if the R6 shock will fit in my 1995 gs500e. Im having some problems driving with my wife to work since the stock shock bounce a lot.
Thanks for the help!