So, I'm in the process of changing the rear tire on my GS. I've broken one of the beads, but the other just wont budge, even after copious amounts of lubrication. This is with the 2x4 method.
I'll be doing changes for a few friends soon, so I figure it would be a good idea to pick up a real bead breaker. I already have tire irons and I'm proficient with them.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92961 (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92961)
Something like that would be great, but I'm in Canada, and princess auto doesn't carry it.
http://www.princessauto.com/truck-trailer/tire-changing-equipment/2050002-manual-tire-changer?keyword=bead+breaker (http://www.princessauto.com/truck-trailer/tire-changing-equipment/2050002-manual-tire-changer?keyword=bead+breaker)
We do however have this, but it seems silly to spend $70 when I'll only be using the bead breaker part of it.
I'd just like to find a proper tool online that could be shipped to Canada, for a reasonable price.
Thanks in advance.
Use a large C-Clamp! Works like a charm. Might even need to place some small piece of metal to help even out the bead. If not, crank away.
drive over it with a car. lol
I drilled a 3/4 hole in the plywood wall behind my bench about six inches up. I can break bead with an iron bar and six inches of 2x4. Just assemble it loose and lean down on it.
You could probably order this one and still get it shipped to you cheaper than $70 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98875
I know it's smaller, but I checked it out in the store and I bet it would still work.
I think you could also make something relatively cheap with some steel bars, a drill, and some nuts and bolts. I've had great luck with the 2x4 method though. Why isn't that one working for you?
Thanks for all the speedy responses.
I will pick up a c-clamp and give that a try very soon.
The 2x4 method gives lots of leverage, but after a certain point, I start lifting up the other side of the wheel, with myself standing on it! I cut an angle into the wood that pushed on the bead, so I will give that a try as well. I'll also try moving the entire assembly down a little bit.
Thanks guys.
I don't think you should have a problem with the other side of the wheel lifting up if you put a 2x4 under both sides (one directly under where the bead breaker is pressing and one on the far side of the wheel). That way there's no pivot point. The angled end should help things too.
That said, a c-clamp big enough to fit around the tire will do the trick just as well.
Well I tried the 2x4 again this morning, and it worked :dunno_black: I think it was because the breaker was pushing on the tire at an angle, lifting it up. Positioning the wheel properly fixed this.
I'll probably still pick up a large c-clamp as another method.
Thanks for the tips, guys.
The C clamp was the first method I tried and I didn't have much luck with it. Obviously it works because other people here say they got it to work fine, but I wasn't getting too far.
That makes sense if you say it was pivoting off the board, you've gotta have it on the right kind of surface. Same thing would've happened with a nice bead breaker if you tried putting boards under it too.