valve clearance: check!
rejet carbs: check!
replace fuel lines: check!
question: should i check the floats before i adjust the air mix screws? or does it matter since they dont affect each other?
then on to carb sync'ing with the aquarium tubes haha
You can check them independantly of each other.
Hopefully, the carb synching will cure that bogging.
i think the carbs are in sync.. still bogging though. i think the float level is high (gas in tube higher than gasket) so now i gotta drain the carbs and adjust the floats. lets hope i do this right.
so.. i was lazy and didnt want to pull the float bowls off, so instead i pulled the top needle out and moved the clip up to allow more air flow. seemed to have solved my low-end bogging problem. will report back if i find any issues while riding.
lets hope it doesnt bog at an inopportune moment.
ride safe friends! sticky side down, shiny side up. :D
If you lifted the clip on the needle, you have leaned out your mid-range mixture. This is totally different to setting your float height. If you want to tune your carbs correctly, you need to make sure they're getting enough fuel (ie. fuel lines, petcock), then set the float heights. THEN you start playing with other stuff! :thumb:
I'm never sure when people talk about lifting and dropping needled, since I'm never sure if they're saying they're raising the clip position, or if they're raising the needle by lowering the clip. If I start with a clip at the center, which way do i need to move the little E-clip to make things run leaner, and which way does the E-clip need to go to run richer?
Causing the needle to move up relative to the jet will enrichen the mixture. Causing the needle to move down, into the jet, will lean out the mixture.
Think of the clip as static and you're moving the needle up or down in relation to the clip. Move the needle UP one (or the clip DOWN one) to enrichen.
Quote from: the mole on April 28, 2010, 03:05:16 AM
If you lifted the clip on the needle, you have leaned out your mid-range mixture. This is totally different to setting your float height. If you want to tune your carbs correctly, you need to make sure they're getting enough fuel (ie. fuel lines, petcock), then set the float heights. THEN you start playing with other stuff! :thumb:
before, the motor would die if i did quick pull/off of the throttle. also, if i only pulled the throttle just a bit the bike would also bog and die. though i dont doubt your knowledge of the affects of changing the needle, i was just stating that by doing so i no longer have a bog at all. my float heights may very well be incorrect still, but at the very least the bike no longer dies if i sit in the low-end
with that said, i dont know how the floats affect the ability of the bike. maybe i'll go for re-checking the float height again and adjusting as necessary.
just to make sure, how would changing the float heights affect how the bike currently runs? as far as i can tell, i can pull very very slowly on the throttle and there's no bog or hesitation all the way through, from 1500 to 10000rpm.
alrighty, now that i've pushed the bike a bit more, playing with different throttle/clutch combinations and positions, i have noticed some intermittent hesitation and i AM able to stall the bike out by keeping the throttle low and then letting go (purposefully trying to flood the motor?) xD
so, i am now back to going at the float height and adjusting as necessary. and i think i'll play with the air screws again as well. hopefully all works out. if not i'll find a carb specialist and see how much they'll charge me xD gotta get this thing going asap.
i can make the bike stall out if i play around with quick jerks on the throttle and keep it under 2500rpm or so. seemingly, and i will continue to test this, it is ok if i let it pass 3000.
questions:
with a 2 jet system, what are the rpm ranges for each jet?
how do i lean out the first 0-3000 rpm? (i adjusted the needle height, but was told the needle height affects mid-range. yet, it cleared my initial low-end bog?)
sometimes if i hold the throttle steady at 4500-5000 it stutters, why?
for the air mix screws, turning them in leans out the pilot mixture right?
sorry for all the questions.. typing them out just makes me feel better about myself haha
Engine stalls with quick snap of throttle = too lean
4500-5500rpm seems to be where the transition from pilot jet to main jet is. Usually, this area is controlled by the needle. Stuttering is from lean carburetion.
And, yes, turning in the mix screws leans out the idle circuit.
so my low-end bog seems to be from being lean, not rich?
balance out the floats, turn out the mix screw, and richen the midrange?
It's a little difficult if I can't hear/see/feel it in person.
If it is bogging in neutral, when you snap the throttle; as in, the rpms delay to respond and/or rise slowly, then it is rich.
But, if it stalls/dies/hesitates/misses, then it's too lean.
before: on centerstand, in neutral, idling around 1300rpm. 40/125 jets 3 turns out, needle at richest setting= blip the throttle>idle drags down and/or stalls. hold throttle open just a hair > bogs down and stalls.
now: on centerstand, in neutral, idling around 1200rpm. 40/125 jets 3 turns out, needle 2 grooves closer to top = blip throttle> rpms go up. blip throttle repeatedly> starts showing some bogging, but can stay running. open just a hair> rpms go up. very very slow on the throttle> rpms go up slow and smooth but increase exponentially?
i know how hard it is to diagnose issues without being on-site, and i thank you very much for your input. i wish i had a decent camera to record everything =[
when i get a chance (after work) i'll try to stall the motor while riding so i can let you know exactly what i do to get the result. and i'll try to figure out better words to describe it too.
thanks again..
p.s. anyone in orange county,ca? haha
so i finally got around to re-checking the float heights and adjusting them.. and wow, what a difference! yay!
i think it actually fixed the low-end bogging/stalling and whatnots. after i get off work in about an hour im gonna try to run it a bit and see what happens
question now regarding the inline filter. most people, from what i've read, have theirs placed at the bottom right before the carb. why is that place better than, lets say, right under the tank petcock?
i know there's some rust floating down to the carbs and so of course i need a filter. just wanted to know why it's right at the carb
May be a dirty air filter. Try removing the air filter, then cover the hole with your hand by 50% and check if you still got those symptoms.