Hello.
The following give you easier clutch actuation:
1) "Righteous Stunt" lever - $83, but VERY nice
http://www.righteousstuntmetal.com/ (http://www.righteousstuntmetal.com/)
2) Welding an extension into the actuator arm (1/2 inch)
3) Moose or Raptor EZ Pull lever
My question:
Option #3 (Moose or Raptor) has an optional Hot Start functionality, and I'm wondering if that can be converted to use with the stock choke.
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=572184&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse (http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=572184&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse)
I'm partial to the Moose, with the rounder profile and lack of rubber covering that would speed the wear on my gloves.
I'm not sure about the travel length of the Hot Start levers, and I'm wondering if a dirt biker or motoXer could offer advice...
My clutch lever assembly is wobbly and flimsy, and canted about 10 degrees toward the ground.
Also, this would help eliminate the big clunky plastic housing.
I don't use a horn.
I don't use directionals.
If I ever start (and drivers actually pay attention to it), I'd like to use momentary switches with better weatherproofing than stock junk.
Something similar to the rubber-covered handlebar-mounted switches used with my Veypor gauge.
My high/low beam switch... not incredibly necessary. I use headlight modulator, and mostly drive in the day. I've learned that cagers could care less whether the high beam is on or not, so I just leave it on. Again, a rocker switch could be added later, and again with better weatherproofing.
Quite frankly, I'm tired of cleaning road debris, spiders, and oxidation out of switches that I don't use or want.
Also, before I forget:
I would LOOOOOVE to simply use the Righteous lever.
Are there any hardware gurus here that could advise on a frame-mounted choke actuation assembly?
The ones used for lawnmowers would be adequate, if they weren't so flimsy.
Something corrosion resistant would be nice.