So i need to replace the fork-seals on my '93, i found the part # and price on bandit, just wondering if there's anything else i should get or do while i'm replacing the seals before i purchase the parts and start this.
if the forks feel comfortable to you, and youre only changing out the seals as a maintenance issue, than i'd say there's not much else.
if you have stock springs and think theyre a bit too soft, now would be a good time to spend a little extra coin and get some new springs and maybe a different weight oil. theres plenty of info about those if youre interested.
Fork oil should be changed every other year.
I got the seals and dust caps from eBay for a lot cheaper than bike bandit. I think a lot of other people here have done the same...
Quote from: scratch on May 12, 2010, 01:35:21 PM
Fork oil should be changed every other year.
Interesting...I didn't realize such frequent changes were recommended. It doesn't seem like the oil in the forks would be under great strain the way engine oil is. It's relatively well sealed from the environment and only subject to being forced through a small hole. No heat stress on it.
It will collect metal particles of course, but does its damping properties really break down in 2 years?
I do mine every front tire change. That may be a touch of overkill on a streetbike, but with the wheel off anyway it's just a few extra minutes to pull the tubes and change the oil.
I certainly wouldn't do it less than every other front tire.
I definitely feel a difference.
question!
the how-tos and threads suggest making that tool and it having to be at LEAST 16". but, since the cap is off and the springs out, couldnt you use a smaller tool since you could just fully compress the tubes? or are the tubes already fully compressed when putting the tool down the tube and i missed that part in the write-up?
also, is it possible to over-tighten the allen screw from the bottom? what happens if it's over-tightened?
Definitely possible to over torque it. A little too much torque makes it real tough to get out the next time. A lot too much will either round the head of the bolt or rip out the threads from the damper rod (though that would be tough to do). There is a spec in the book (too lazy to go look it up myself atm) for installing the bolt with a new crush gasket. A teeny bit more might be required for a used one but shouldn't be a problem. And I can't remember if the book also calls for thread locker...I usually don't use it.