I know that the rear sprocket can be replaced to allow more power either at low rpms or high rpms, but what is the point of adding more or less teeth to the front sprocket?
Explanation in wiki
http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Upgrades.Sprocket (http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Upgrades.Sprocket)
Summary: Smaller front sprocket == larger rear sprocket == higher rpm
1 tooth on the front is worth 3 on the back so if you drop from a 16 to a 15 on the front is like going from a 39 to a 42 on the rear.
I'm trying to sell my 14t, if you want it.
Just make me an offer.
Gotta make sure it fits your year model, though. Mine's a '93. Can't remember if it has the shoulder or not.
5 bucks for the 14!
Changing the front sprocket would have similar effects as changing the back, its just like a mountain bike, the bigger the gear on the rear, the easier it is to turn, and the smaller gear up front is easier to spin also. Doing these would lower your topspeed, but give you better accerlation in every gear. Changing the front from a 16t to a 15t is cheaper than changing the rear, one bad thing about lowering the number of teeth up front is that the forces are spread over less number of teeth (higher stresses) and less angle of wrap; but I'm sure the products on the market work fine. When I get my next chain, I was planning on trying the 15t also. :thumb: One interesting thought though, some people that commute long distances go up to a 17t to lower highway rpms and save some gas. 17 tooth gear is good for wear considerations because it is a prime number, and the gear will have to turn over many more times before it reaches the exact same link in the chain.
Quote from: gregvhen on May 14, 2010, 07:58:32 PM
5 bucks for the 14!
Wanna buy something so bad? Buy the protective gear I listed.
I already told you, I'm not having your death on my conscience.
You remind me too much of myself when I was your age.
Another note... Generally, there's only enough adjustment in the chain tensioner at the rear wheel to drop or add 3 teeth over stock. So, it's usually safe to add 3 teeth at the back, you should probably drop 1 tooth at the front and add 2 at the rear instead of adding 5 teeth at the rear.
Quote from: burning1 on May 16, 2010, 01:30:57 PM
Another note... Generally, there's only enough adjustment in the chain tensioner at the rear wheel to drop or add 3 teeth over stock. So, it's usually safe to add 3 teeth at the back, you should probably drop 1 tooth at the front and add 2 at the rear instead of adding 5 teeth at the rear.
thats why they sell longer chains :thumb:
Waste of a chain, if you ask me. Plus, going up usually means buying a 120 link chain and cutting off 8 links, rather than buying a 110 link chain and simply throwing it on there. Longer chain means more work, and more cost. I'd rather just keep to the spec length and drop a tooth at the front.
IMO, installing a longer chain only makes sense when you want to make some really extreme chain length mods (E.g. for stunting,) where the gearing changes are so drastic that you're at risk of removing so many teeth at the front that you create clearance and wear issues.
im running a 14/45 112 link chain and i ordered a 112 chain no cutting
Quote from: Homer on May 15, 2010, 08:36:57 AM
Quote from: gregvhen on May 14, 2010, 07:58:32 PM
5 bucks for the 14!
Wanna buy something so bad? Buy the protective gear I listed.
I already told you, I'm not having your death on my conscience.
You remind me too much of myself when I was your age.
I dont get it? im not the only person on here who wants to run a 14-45