stripped one of the oil filter cover lock nut,tried removing the nut when engine was moderately hot.....
any ideas/suggestion as to how I can remove the nut now.
http://img522.imageshack.us/i/dscn3947k.jpg/
and my old carb used to spew gas into air filter,rinsed it in gas and dried the air filter and using it currently...would this airfilter possible cause for bike sputtering past 85mph other than petcock issue.
Manoj
Just grab that bolt with some vicegrips and twist it off.
How old is your air filter, sounds like it's had a tough life, might be time to change it anyway.
+1, give it a spray of WD40 first. Don't do those things up too tight, a couple of fingers on the spanner is all you need!
If Vice Grips and wd40 don't work.. get some PB Blaster and a set of "craftsman bolt out extractors."
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/s_10153_12605_Tools_Auto%20&%20Mechanics%20Tools_Taps%20&%20Dies?sbf=Brand&sbv=Craftsman
I got the 14 piece set and LOVE it. The 5 piece set is only $20 and should have the size you need.
It worked............
sprayed with WD40 and let the engine cool,got a GM 10" powergrip and off came the sucker
what grade/kind of lock nut should I replace it with and did I screw up trying to remove nut when engine was hot
air filter has about 5000 miles on it
Manoj
Just check the thread on the stud, look and feel for damage. I'd try to order 1-2 from the dealer, or bring a spare to the hardware store to match up the size; it only needs to be on tight enough so that oil does not leak out.
I can't imagine you hurt anything. I had always heard you were supposed to warm the engine up before you changed the oil anyway. I think that bolt would've gone regardless. Your engine doesn't get anywhere near hot enough at normal operating temperatures that it should start melting bolts.
I would just take one of the good bolts to the hardware store and find something similar. Stainless if you can find it, if not try to get a nut that's coated in something, since it'll have constant grime through at it from the front wheel.
tt_four.....read your input in one of the posts,the correct way to check oil level is with dipstick just touching thread surface.
I had always been checking with fully screwing down dipstick,today when I drained the oil it was just little over half a gallon and last time I checked couple of days back the oil level was max.
guess I have been running one quart less all this while
Manoj
I was never sure, so I always kept it so it was just above the "low" line when I just rested it on the threads, and just under the "high" line when it was actually screwed in, so I'd be safe either way. I'll put a little more in this weekend when I'm working on it.
Hey I have a related question I'd like to tack on here (so someone else can be blamed for not using search ;) )
One of my oil cap studs had already broken off when I got the bike, so basically it came with two studs and an Allen bolt. When I replaced the oil, the hole in the block where the Allen bolt went in stripped out. I used a wire bread tie to hold the screw in, but it's time to fix it properly.
I assume a helicoil is the thing to use, but I've never installed one and I don't know which size to get. Can anyone give me some advice?
Thanks!
I want to say that stud is probably 5mm, but take the bolt to the hardware store and compare it to the other bolts to see. It could be a 6mm.
I'd also get a longer bolt, and once you put the helicoil in screw the bolt in nice and tight, with some loctite on everything. Once it's in just cut the head off of the bolt and file the edge smooth. Then you'll have another stud in there and won't strip it out again with the helicoil in there. You could also go to a suzuki dealership and ask for another stud. I think pepboys also has a selection of studs, but I'd be surprised if they had any metric ones.
Quote from: tt_four on May 19, 2010, 08:15:17 PM
I would just take one of the good bolts to the hardware store and find something similar. Stainless if you can find it,
Noooooo!.....stainless lacks tensile strength, they will be even weaker and snap even easier than the stock studs :nono:
If you choose to ditch the studs and go with bolts you are likely to strip the threaded holes in the block if you overtighten them or they might pull the metal up around the holes which in turn might prevent a proper seal between the faces unless you countersink them. The stock stud/nut arrangement works fine, if you DONT overtighten them. If you cant trust yourself with a torque wrench get some hi-tensile socket cap-head bolts (the black ones)....some people call them "Allen bolts" :dunno_black:............ Hacksaw the heads off and use them as studs.......Hi-tensile means they wont stretch and weaken the thread.
yeah not too tight guys, finger tight + 1/4 turn, or just enough to not leak oil. The thing that I think would be tricky, is that the front wheel/fork is in the way, how are you going to drill a nice perpendicular hole? I guess thats the thing with owning this bike, you really learn alot about it don't you?
Can I put a helicoil in with just a screwdriver and a drill? Is there a specific size I should get?
I just don't want to drill too deep into the block or anything...
The procedure for fitting helicoils.
#1 Drill the hole out oversize to remove all traces of the original thread. If the drill wanders off-center the hole will become oval the sides wont be parallel and the strength of the helicoil will be compromised or worst case the bolt wont fit in it.
#2 Tap the hole using the tap supplied in the helicoil kit.
#3 Wind the helicoil insert into the now threaded hole using the tool supplied in the kit (use anything else and you may damage it)
#4 Snap the drive tang off the bottom of the helicoil using the tool supplied in the kit and remove it.
http://www.helicoil.com.sg/HeliCoil-Installation-Instructions.htm
+1.
I think there's a specific size drill you should use for step 1. Don't go any bigger.
Alright, sounds doable. You think drilling out the old threads with a hand drill is good enough, provided I'm careful about the angle and drift?
The size of drill needed to bore the hole oversize will be quoted in the instructions that come with the kit, it will be something like 5.2mm or 6.2mm. Near enough is not good enough, you MUST use the exact stated size.
Its perfectly do-able with a power drill on a fast setting. Suggest you have a few practice runs first on a lump of scrap to get a feel for it.
Good luck this just happened to me.
I cannot find that bolt anywhere; I need to order it in.