Just checked my float levels, and they are way high. Like an inch or more above the gasket line. The bike starts easy and runs very well while riding, but coming to a stoplight...i have to hold my throttle to keep it from bogging below 1K and dying. Originally i thought this was a valve issue, because they do need to be done, but could too much fuel in the float bowls be a reason for not holding an idle at a stop? makes sense to me. when running its fine because the fuel is burning, but at a stop the fuel is filling up and choking out the carbs. Does this sound right?
Yes, fix. It will help at idle. And check the oil for gasoline contamination.
Did a few things since my first post here..
Still low idle. Float height is dead on, level with bowl gaskets. Carbs squeaky clean. Tight exhaust valve fixes. And still idles low. Any ideas?? Pleease?
Make sure there's not too much play in your clutch, adjust if necessary. That fixed my low idle problem.
Clutch play is set to spec. I believe its 4mm. Thanks for though, didnt think of that. Im wandering if a bigger pilot jet would help fix this, ive read somewhere on here that a bigger pilot does wanders for warming up and idling.
buddha, got a pilot jet that will go with a dynojet kit? stock is 37.5 right? would a 40 and the DJ kit work ya think?
Have you tried adjusting the idle?
Michael
yes. Idle will go up if i turn it many turns, but then revs hang. something else is the problem.
im no expert but i would suspect a leak in the system somewhere.
i had a similar problem with my GS shortly after i got it and it turned out to be an air leak.
try to get the bike to idle steadily then spray around the airbox to carb rubbers and again around the carb to cylinder head rubbers and listen for any increase/decrease in rpms. if you detect change then you can suspect an air leak.
a bad place to get an air leak is on the diaphragm covers, where the vacuum port is. make sure the orings are there. if they aren't, you can use a small piece of a rubber band to block it off while you wait for the orings to get here
Thanks guys. I know carb boots are good on both sides. To engine and to airbox. The diaphragms work well and slides go down evenly and smoothly. I guess I'll check te vaccum ports but I believe they are also good. Any other ideas feel free to throw em out there. I think I might cotact Buddha and get bigger pilots
Im probably due for an oil change...could this do it? Maybe a dirty oil filter?
seriously gonna light my bike on fire. this is ridiculous. cannot get a decent idle. :technical:
So you have the idle set low cause if you don't - if you set your idle higher so it idles right - your revs hang when coming off the throttle?
Does this mean that when you warm up the bike you ride off before turning off the choke. And that the bike will just die if you turn off the choke all the way before you ride off?
How's your air filter?
Have you tried a different Brand of fuel? My bike runs better on BP than Shell and better on 95 than 91-E10
What are your sparkplugs telling you?
(http://www.aa1car.com/library/reading_spark_plugs.jpg)
Michael
plugs look kind of lean. air filter is new k&n. fuel is shell v-power (premium), no ethanol. I can let the bike warm up for 40 minutes and it will still idle low. It runs fine when riding, no flat spots, goes over 100mph. at stop lights it idles rough at like 850-900 rpm. and thats with the idle screw turned it higher than id like due to slow come down on the rpms.
someone mentioned clutch adjustment fixed their low idle? how could this be?
Check if the two small rubber caps on the carbs vacuum sync intakes are intact.
Quote from: kylegod on August 03, 2010, 02:45:56 PM... and thats with the idle screw turned it higher than id like due to slow come down on the rpms.
I'm almost 100% sure that's because the exhaust valves are tight. Don't know if that will make the idle low though. :dunno_black:
Good God, when are people going to stop polluting the air more and wasting their money by putting premium in low compression engines?
"A gallon of regular has the same amount of energy as a gallon of premium." Should I have a few hundred T-shirts made and pass 'em out to the group?
Suzuki dealership did my valves less than 100 miles ago
Quote from: bill14224 on August 03, 2010, 03:26:50 PM
Good God, when are people going to stop polluting the air more and wasting their money by putting premium in low compression engines?
"A gallon of regular has the same amount of energy as a gallon of premium." Should I have a few hundred T-shirts made and pass 'em out to the group?
Bill,
MY Testing - and I do NOT speak for everyone nor for all fuels in all countries, only my experience in Aust in the state I live in with the current legislation etc., and I advise everyone to do their own testing - shows that, the bike performs "more poorly / less well" on Shell fuels than on BP fuels. All 91 Octane (that's the lowest in Aust) will be having ethanol added and most already does and MY bike performs poorly on ethanol laden fuel. *I* assume, Shell gas has different additives than BP and thus the difference in performance (MPG, running smoothness - sounds different too).
Michael
on the fender under the seat it says 91 minimum.
could changing needle height possibly help?
Bump!
I have a 2001 K1 and have had the same issue since buying the bike over three years ago. This unfulfilled desire for something so basic and simple as a strong, smooth idle is growing increasingly frustrating.
Quote from: kylegod on August 04, 2010, 03:43:04 AM
on the fender under the seat it says 91 minimum.
I thought the same thing, but check the units, it's not 91 octane, it's 91 RON
According to wikipedia, 91 RON is about equal to 87 "octane" rating in the U.S.
Quote
In most countries, including all of those of Australia and Europe the "headline" octane rating shown on the pump is the RON, but in Canada, the United States and some other countries, like Brazil[4], the headline number is the average of the RON and the MON, called the Anti-Knock Index (AKI, and often written on pumps as (R+M)/2).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating
Also, either way, going one up on the pilots is a good idea. But you should still be able to get an idle without them. Have you checked your mixture screws? Or possibly your carbs are way out of sync.
hey sorry to break in like this but im having the same problem with mine. i cleaned my carbs about a month ago and now need to give it choke while starting when before i didnt. just wondering how to sync the carbs?
Quote from: importslife on August 20, 2010, 04:48:50 AM
hey sorry to break in like this but im having the same problem with mine. i cleaned my carbs about a month ago and now need to give it choke while starting when before i didnt. just wondering how to sync the carbs?
generally you should always have to use choke to start. even if your bike CAN start without choke, it's most likely idling below 1200. when the idle is too low, it's not pumping enough oil up into the head and you lose protection in the top for a while. if it's idling above 1200 at a cold start, it should definitely be much higher after it's completely warmed up.
as for the original poster: have you checked for a vacuum leak? possibly the boots around the intake and carbs. possibly the lines themselves. hanging idle tends to be from vacuum leaks or valves from what i can tell, especially if it's pretty easy to predict how to make it happen. just for fun i'd check the valve clearances too. doesnt take much just to check them.
Quote from: importslife on August 20, 2010, 04:48:50 AM
hey sorry to break in like this but im having the same problem with mine. i cleaned my carbs about a month ago and now need to give it choke while starting when before i didnt. just wondering how to sync the carbs?
If you take them off, you can usually get them pretty close by eye. You can build a carb sync tool out of aquarium hose and colored water or oil for ~$10. Check the wiki and search the forums, should be plenty of info.