Has anyone ever tried this stuff? My tank on my 89 GS500E is very rusty and I was sick and tired of putting in a fuel filter every 2 rides, so I did some research and this stuff looked like the best stuff...I would have bought a new tank, but I don't have 500 bucks laying around to buy a stock one from bike bandit.
Thanks in advance,
Damon
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t196/84CrapJ7/1270598518929.jpg)
You can usually find them on ebay for $100-150 if you ever want to go that route, but regardless, I've used it twice and it's not too bad. Just follow the instructions and you'll be fine. Did you buy the whole kit? You can substitute the first two parts with some simple green and phosphoric acid from home depot, but it doesn't really save you all that much money either way. I love the way the inside of my tanks looked after I did it too.
It's also a giant pain in the ass just because of the shape of the GS tank. It's a pain to drain water out of, but ther'es nothing you can do about that.
It's good stuff...
After you do the initial clean and are doing the etch phase (metal ready they call it..). I usually nearly double the time they recommend- keep rolling/sloshing the tank in all different directions to make sure you get as much rust etc gone as you can.
The really crucial part is getting the tank dry before the sealer goes in. Lots of air moving through the tank ( heat is secondary to the drying effort..). Again -roll the tank frequently and keep air moving through it. The rolling spreads the water out so it can evaporate out easier. Dry dry dry...
The sealer.. roll the tank in all directions and axis's slowly to let the sealer coat it all. Drain the excess like they say and let the tank cure ( I do 4 days at least...).
I use a piece of closed cell foam to plug the gas cap opening- same on bottom and I put the petcock bolts in too to plug the bottom... just make sure to remove the bolts before they get stuck in the sealer...(or plug it your own way..).
Read the directions multiple times before you start.
Not hard to do...just takes a little while...
I was thinking of doing this to my tank however it looks like someone in the past tried to seal the tank with something. It looks like white latex paint. I was able to pull some off of the rim near the cap....I don't know if I can use the sealer with the other stuff on there...for all I know its the same stuff but the tank still looks kinda funky inside. That being said I just pulled the carbs and they didn't seem to bad. I did put a fuel filter inline as well...Guess I'll play wait and see for now...
Good Luck
I just did this on my 92 tank but used KBS system. Worked well but make sure you address any pinholes, when I was sanding my tank for re-spray just under the decals and paint popped up all these pinholes. The acid etch will make them larger so make sure to use JB weld on any questionable areas. Dry dry dry and more drying is important, i spent over a week to apply then let cure for 5 days before anything. i added much more time to each of the steps, in then end one of my larger pinholes on the bottom rib started to leak again about a month afterwards but i just applied some metal epoxy to it since it was under and has been good to go ever since. if you don't have any pinholes then i think you are good as gold with what you have!!!
I used por-15 4 years ago and haven't had a tank issue since. make sure its bone dry before you apply the enamel. I positioned a hair dryer over the cap fitting and ran it for hours occasionally taking the tank and rolling the water around in it to spread it out. no puddles helps it dry faster. Also I let it cure for about 96 hours before reinstalling the tank. I think if you take short cuts you're asking for problems and they'll manifest themselves next season when the lining starts to peel off. so my advice is to etch it really well. then rinse it really well, then make sure its bone dry before you apply the enamel and let it cure for the max amount of time you can stand. good luck.
d
I just found an 07 tank for 100 bucks on ebay, but it had over 4 days left on it...would it fit my 89?
Quote from: offcamber on June 10, 2010, 06:10:36 AM
I was thinking of doing this to my tank however it looks like someone in the past tried to seal the tank with something. It looks like white latex paint. I was able to pull some off of the rim near the cap....I don't know if I can use the sealer with the other stuff on there...for all I know its the same stuff but the tank still looks kinda funky inside. That being said I just pulled the carbs and they didn't seem to bad. I did put a fuel filter inline as well...Guess I'll play wait and see for now...
Good Luck
The "white latex paint" is Kreem. It works for a little bit, but I did my research and this Por-15 looks like it will work better. http://www.por15.com/CYCLE-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/CTRK/ I tried the paper fuel filter route, but that was a pain in the ass changing it every 2 days...
POR15 is a lot harder to do and even harder to remove if screwed up.
POR15 instructions, dont make me laugh, throw them away.
Kreem will hold great, only difference is if you have to powdercoat the tank after coating it inside. then POR15 will take the heat, kreem will not.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: MNgsrider on June 11, 2010, 09:55:33 AM
Quote from: offcamber on June 10, 2010, 06:10:36 AM
I was thinking of doing this to my tank however it looks like someone in the past tried to seal the tank with something. It looks like white latex paint. I was able to pull some off of the rim near the cap....I don't know if I can use the sealer with the other stuff on there...for all I know its the same stuff but the tank still looks kinda funky inside. That being said I just pulled the carbs and they didn't seem to bad. I did put a fuel filter inline as well...Guess I'll play wait and see for now...
Good Luck
The "white latex paint" is Kreem. It works for a little bit, but I did my research and this Por-15 looks like it will work better. http://www.por15.com/CYCLE-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/CTRK/ I tried the paper fuel filter route, but that was a pain in the ass changing it every 2 days...
can it be re-creamed? How hard is it to remove to reseal it?
If you have it peeling - and I have had both POR15 and kreem peel BTW, kreem could be re softened with MEK/acetone and it will re adhere.
POR15 will not. Acetone will soften it, but it wont re coat well enough to get it sealed again.
POR15 has a list of no no's as long as my arm ... serious. Scary ...
Kreem has just 1, do not heat it.
The instructions with both are nearly worthless, and my instructions for the 2 are varying and equally difficult on both ... but the golden rule is, properly rust free, properly moisture free and properly thin thin thin thin coating. As thin as you can get IMHO on both, and POR15 is the consistency of wet cement. So you need a proper drain hole to coat and drain right. GS tank needs get this, exactly 3oz of fresh new POR15 and it can use 2oz kreem mixed in with maybe 2oz acetone perfectly also.
If your base surface is imperfect, you may have better luck with kreem than POR15.
In any doubt. Kreem.
That is about it. I have over 25 tanks done with each method. I like doing 3-4 at a time, and if I am anticipating powdercoating 1 of the tanks, all of em get POR15.
Cool.
Buddha.
What should I use to cover the petcock holes and cap hole?
Duct Tape, worked for me
My tank has rusted all underneath the kream, and the kream is peeling baddly. I was hoping to get it all out by using MEK/acetone/xylene but the design of the filler protruded filler neck wouldnt let everything come out.
I was thinking of cutting a 7" hole in the bottom of the tank, big enough to get my hand in there and scrap and sandblast the inside, then weld it back up.
Tips advise for anything else before cutting/welding occurs?