What have you used for replacing the fuel lines? OEM fuel lines from bikebandit? Or something better?
its fuel lines. your not gettin no 10 horse out of em
i've used clear tubing from lowes. not sure if gas eats into it.. but it seems to be fine so far. someone else has done the same thing on here. that's where i got the idea. will post if i find it
EDIT
Quote from: ben2go on July 17, 2008, 05:32:48 PM
Quote from: pronator on July 17, 2008, 04:44:08 PM
Quote from: ben2go on July 17, 2008, 12:18:10 PM
I got clear vinyl hose from Lowes.$3.50 for 10 feet.It's in the plumbing section below the board with small 3/8 and 1/4 inch fittings on it.They were a pain to install.A hair dry helps to warm the lines so they will stretch.Once they cool down they seal great with no clamps.It's thins wall so no wrestling both lines onto the tank petcock.
Hey Ben, I know most folks recommend the Tygon because it's fuel-safe. What about this stuff you got at Lowes? Thanks! :thumb:
So far so good.It is rated for use with chemicals.Doesn't say what chemicals.It doesn't say it on the tag,but the box says chemical resistant.The tygon to me is better but can get pricey.It has better elasticity than the tubing I am speaking of.I figure 10' is enough for 2 years probably longer.At $3.50 for 10' I'm ok with that.Tygon was $10 for 3',but I really haven't checked into since last year.Here's a pic.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/0717082013.jpg)
this is what i got and it works well so far
TYGON is the shiiiiiiiiizzzzzzzzzzzzz (McMaster Carr).
1/4" fuel line. Bike shop or small engine repair'll have a big ol' roll to sell by the foot. Gas doesn't play well with most cheap clear hardware store tubing long term. Tygon is the way to go if you want clear lines that don't melt.
Don't get fuel lines for pressurized systems like cars because it'll be too thick.
Finally, borrow a hair drier to heat the tubing to help it slip on the first time.
I got polyurethane (same material as Tygon without the brand name) fuel line from CycleReCycle Part 2 - 5/16 worked nicely (I ordered both 1/4 and 5/16, as the jury seemed to be out on the correct size). 1/4 was going to be a bear to get on, 5/16 went on nicely and stays put nicely (1990 bike, your petcock may vary, evidently).
The vinyl tubing is not fuel-safe, and becomes hard/brittle with time and exposure to fuel. That can lead to catastrophic leaks. If it's thin-wall it can also pinch off and cut your fuel flow - thicker-wall fuel line is less prone to doing that. Given a cost of under $5 to replace all the fuel lines with the right stuff, why use the wrong stuff? 5 feet is plenty (including the upper vent line - 4 would do without that).
Quote from: PachmanP on June 18, 2010, 10:07:40 PM
1/4" fuel line. Bike shop or small engine repair'll have a big ol' roll to sell by the foot. Gas doesn't play well with most cheap clear hardware store tubing long term. Tygon is the way to go if you want clear lines that don't melt.
Don't get fuel lines for pressurized systems like cars because it'll be too thick.
Finally, borrow a hair drier to heat the tubing to help it slip on the first time.
Hair drier, what a great idea!
Quote from: DoD#i on June 19, 2010, 09:44:36 AM
I got polyurethane (same material as Tygon without the brand name) fuel line from CycleReCycle Part 2 - 5/16 worked nicely (I ordered both 1/4 and 5/16, as the jury seemed to be out on the correct size). 1/4 was going to be a bear to get on, 5/16 went on nicely and stays put nicely (1990 bike, your petcock may vary, evidently).
The vinyl tubing is not fuel-safe, and becomes hard/brittle with time and exposure to fuel. That can lead to catastrophic leaks. If it's thin-wall it can also pinch off and cut your fuel flow - thicker-wall fuel line is less prone to doing that. Given a cost of under $5 to replace all the fuel lines with the right stuff, why use the wrong stuff? 5 feet is plenty (including the upper vent line - 4 would do without that).
Truth.
I got some 5/16 fuel line and I'm having a hard time stopping it from leaking at the tank; I think I need to try some different hose clamps or something :\
Or different fuel line. My 5/16 is on and staying put without leaks with no clamps at all. Had them in the tool box, but the functional truth was the hoses were not going anywhere, so I KISSed the question of using them at all.
There may well be different sizes of petcock outlets in different years, from what some folks have said. 5/16 is nearly 8mm, and claims were that the correct size was 7mm, which is why I got two sizes (the other will go to lawnmowers and snowblowers.) 1/4 is 6.3mm.
There may also be different sizes of fuel hose claiming to be a particular size (or a straight-up screw up where someone sold you 3/8 (or 9mm) instead of 5/16, or...)
The hard lines from the tank petcock are so close together, it's hard to get clamps on there in the first place! >:(
If you've still got the old spring style clamps - try pulling them with pliers.
Not the direction to open them, the other direction. It makes them tighter. Still, they're not so great.
Try to find some like these:
http://www.kshoseclamp.com/mini_hose_clamps.htm (http://www.kshoseclamp.com/mini_hose_clamps.htm)
They have the best clamping, in my opinion. They don't strip, like the cheapo worm-screw types.
BUT - and this is important - if you look close, they have a ridge on the sides of the band/strap.
You MIGHT run into a problem trying to get one on each line. Because the hard lines are so dang close together!
It's a faulty design from the factory, in my opinion. They should have at least a 1/2 inch more spacing between the outlets on the stock petcock.
Suzuki must have really been pinching pennies. :icon_rolleyes:
I use 1/4" tygon, it was a little difficult to get up over the nipples on the petcock, but no leaks!!! and I did use clamps
I usually have 8mm fuel hoses (I use the duffel lined ones, not for pressurized systems) and with this kind os clamp at this link below is very easy to get it neat and dry...
http://www.densul.com.br/imagem/miniatura/1303,abracadeira-para-mangueira-6-e-8,260,foto1 (http://www.densul.com.br/imagem/miniatura/1303,abracadeira-para-mangueira-6-e-8,260,foto1)
I've heard about people using silicone hoses for long periods without problem, they're clear and much easier to route since they're extremely flexible, and they're cheap as well... I'll go with them next time!
Yes, I am officially having a fuel leak nightmare with the 5/16 hoses on my bike. All kinds of hose clamps and teflon tape and it's still leaking from the fuel line outs (it wasn't leaking with my old crusty hoses) and I think I finally got it to stop leaking from the carb fuel inlet.
I am ordering some smaller fuel line now.
Quote from: Eklipse on June 21, 2010, 11:07:34 PM
Yes, I am officially having a fuel leak nightmare with the 5/16 hoses on my bike. All kinds of hose clamps and teflon tape and it's still leaking
Teflon tape is for threaded connections. Not going to help (quite the opposite) for a hose barb connection...
Where am I likely to find Tygon locally? Might try a local plastic shop.
Lowes doesnt have it.
Quote from: Homer on June 20, 2010, 12:10:03 PM
The hard lines from the tank petcock are so close together, it's hard to get clamps on there in the first place! >:(
If you've still got the old spring style clamps - try pulling them with pliers.
Not the direction to open them, the other direction. It makes them tighter. Still, they're not so great.
Try to find some like these:
http://www.kshoseclamp.com/mini_hose_clamps.htm (http://www.kshoseclamp.com/mini_hose_clamps.htm)
They have the best clamping, in my opinion. They don't strip, like the cheapo worm-screw types.
BUT - and this is important - if you look close, they have a ridge on the sides of the band/strap.
You MIGHT run into a problem trying to get one on each line. Because the hard lines are so dang close together!
It's a faulty design from the factory, in my opinion. They should have at least a 1/2 inch more spacing between the outlets on the stock petcock.
Suzuki must have really been pinching pennies. :icon_rolleyes:
Those clamps are a great idea, I bet the hardware store across the street from my work has them, they have EVERYTHING. Using those clamps wont leave marks in anything your're clamping like a worm screw one. I should try and stock up on them.
I found some hose, dunno what it's called at a local bike shop that's made for fuel and is non collapsible and purpose built to handle fuel. Thats probably what I'll use when I put the bike back together from my top end rebuild, I've worried whatever that line on there is to death working on it recently, and its more and more grumpy about sealing up. The bike is apart for a while now though, I'll pick up some line when I'm in reassembly stage.
On behalf of the last owner (ameth addict in Ashville, NC), I apologize for those crappy blue lines.
And, with that... the bike is yours.
Quote from: JonM1211 on June 22, 2010, 08:15:18 PM
Where am I likely to find Tygon locally? Might try a local plastic shop.
Online (for many things, it's cheaper, faster and easier than driving all over town looking for stuff, I find.)
http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/motorcycle-fuel-related.htm (http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/motorcycle-fuel-related.htm)
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23487&catid=864 (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23487&catid=864)
I've done business with both of the above, no other relationship - CRCII is cheaper. Still 80 cents a foot in any size, shipping not too bad. Grab 2 feet of 1/8 inch while you are there and your carb drains become much easier to use.
Motorcycle shop.
Lawnmower/chainsaw/small engine shop.
Farm equipment/tractor dealer.
Lab/medical equipment supply.
Possibly at a good local hardware store, if any are left.
I'd like to bring this thread back to life as it seems its the most thorough about replacement after market hoses. Since I have changed so much under my tank, e.g. airbox, rear shock, replaced rear end for look and removal of CHARCOAL CANISTER, I have so many loose hoses, extra length hoses. Also my 2009 GS500F has never had any of these hoses replaced. Therefore I want to use different colored hoses and cut to exact length as I clean up another the tank and might as well make it look cool.
I would like to replace the following lines/hoses, I'll post later a photo of the mess under my tank when I get to friend's shop later this week.
Brake lines, I think I want to replace with Stainless Steel brake lines. I recently replaced the rear brake pads & rotor. I might as well replace the front brake pads & rotor to right? Any recommendations?
Air cleaner, even though I don't have the OEM airbox but a K&N RU-2970. I need to cut some of these unused hoses now. OEM parts listed below that I want to replace.
HOSE from bike to top of OEM airbox
09352-11153-600
CARBURETOR HOSES
13683-01DC1
09355-35755-600
13683-01DB0
13683-01DN0 (tube)
13683-01DC1
09355-35755-600
09355-35755-600
09355-35755-600
09355-35755-600
09355-35755-600
Fuel chicken
44443-01D40
I can not get the part #'s for lines from tank to petcock on Suzuki's fisheye. https://shop.suzukiofvannuys.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=989772&category=Motorcycles&make=Suzuki&year=2009&fveh=27496 (https://shop.suzukiofvannuys.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=989772&category=Motorcycles&make=Suzuki&year=2009&fveh=27496)
There's a lot of links in this thread, dated wayyy back so some do not work anymore, but how does everyone feel about their choices now who posted? Based on Eklipse's comments, I should stay away from 5/16 but DoD#i's comments alluding 5/16 is fine but get 1/4 just in case.
I am thinking of getting this 1/4 yellow, https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23487&catid=864 (https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23487&catid=864) and this 5/16 red, https://express.google.com/u/0/product/12905465212217106956_707178690950653017_3103314?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=tu_prop&utm_content=eid-lsjeuxoeqt>im=CJiLyN2XlcuZjAEQ6bLWm7PgsbMrGPDingwiA1VTRCiQwIboBTDStL0B&utm_campaign=3103314&gclid=Cj0KCQjwitPnBRCQARIsAA5n84neS6NQtyHUQB03H-cKVY7Al0gzyFquVCUHIp6viAIyTeEzK7_mliAaArgMEALw_wcB (https://express.google.com/u/0/product/12905465212217106956_707178690950653017_3103314?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=tu_prop&utm_content=eid-lsjeuxoeqt>im=CJiLyN2XlcuZjAEQ6bLWm7PgsbMrGPDingwiA1VTRCiQwIboBTDStL0B&utm_campaign=3103314&gclid=Cj0KCQjwitPnBRCQARIsAA5n84neS6NQtyHUQB03H-cKVY7Al0gzyFquVCUHIp6viAIyTeEzK7_mliAaArgMEALw_wcB)
But how do I find the sizes needed for carb hoses? I definitely want to get a variety pack of clamps for all these hoses too. Although I like the hair dryer trick.
My current GS Scrambler build, http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=72508.0 (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=72508.0)
Quote from: gregvhen on June 18, 2010, 03:43:23 PM
its fuel lines. your not gettin no 10 horse out of em
What on EARTH does that mean!!!
Quote from: Joolstacho on June 03, 2019, 04:51:16 PM
Quote from: gregvhen on June 18, 2010, 03:43:23 PM
its fuel lines. your not gettin no 10 horse out of em
What on EARTH does that mean!!!
I think he's saying that the customization of fuel lines is way beyond the scope of a typical GS500 owner's knowledge base because the aesthetics of unseen fuel lines seems unimportant when compared to all the other mechanical and aesthetic deficiencies common to the often abused GS500 motorcycles of the world.
I have to agree. In the 10+ years I have watched these fuel line discussions come and go on this forum, the happiest customers seem to those who ordered OEM Suzuki lines. I don't think anyone has bothered to measure the sizes of all the hoses because we can't even agree on what aftermarket fuel lines fit (hint: none because the stock lines are different sizes on either end).
That was very well said, Bluesmudge.
+10000000000 to OEM Suzuki lines and clamps.
+1 on OEM lines and clamps
I just switched back to OEM fuel lines. The OEM clamps just needed to be crimped tighter before installing. It also looks cleaner without my inline fuel filters.
With the aftermarket lines I was also concerned that other forum members had pulled the nipple out of their petcock with the extra wrangling.
7mm ID nitrile with 11mm OD is just about perfect. It's a pain to find, but in the UK you can get some here: https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/8mm-72mm-nitrile-rubber-fuel-hose-516-596-p.asp
After buying a couple of hoses that were just too big, too thick or both, those ones felt just like the OEM ones.
You might need to heat the fuel tap end to get it on there (at least on the newer bikes), but that's pretty much par for the course, the nipples that end are massive.
Here's some photos to accompany my post earlier this week on this thread. I read the latest posts to just stick with the Suzuki OEM lines but I still want to try as I need to clean up under the tank after extensive modifications and I want to label these lines for future service as you'll see the Suzuki Service Manual diagrams have no correlation under my bike anymore. I am so much slack on several tubes now and I need to trim them down, plus they're all like 10 years old. I am gonna replace one at a time to see what works and doesn't. Any advice, pointers would be greatly appreciated about aftermarket lines' do and don't.
(https://i.ibb.co/BNd9xY4/IMG-5756.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/w4MnjQS/IMG-5757.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/NTCL9zS/IMG-5758.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/smzwDxv/IMG-5760.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/L9NnZJD/IMG-5767.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/TPHLsPf/IMG-5761.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/Tr96zFb/IMG-5764.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZMQkPb2/IMG-5770.jpg)
Photo #4: I think that is part of the PAIR system you are holding and can be removed, along with the metal hoses on the front of the head, if you purchase or make some PAIR blockoff plates. You can use plates designed for a Hayabusa, they fit. Only do this if you dont mind increasing your bike's emissions. It should run the same.
from my notes:
Fuel hose = (tank water drain is the same) 8mm (5/16) id. - 11.5mm (7/16) od. Need 1.5m for whole bike,
I used the motion pro fuel hose that was expensive but real nice.... an option if you iive in the US.
Here's just a little thing that's easily overlooked:
The tank petcock has a long and a short outlet pipe, which are very close together, so thin walled fuel hose must be used.
Push the hose onto the shorter outlet tube first - push it all the way, and put on the clamp.
Now put the hose on the longer outlet pipe, but don't push it all the way up.
Add the clamp. This way the spring clamps are offset from one another and won't exacerbate the close spacing of the outlet pipes.
(Apologies if someone's covered this before).
Quote from: 007brendan on June 18, 2010, 03:16:21 PM
What have you used for replacing the fuel lines? OEM fuel lines from bikebandit? Or something better?
There is nothing better than the OEM lines. Expensive but it pays you back over time, because the ends are properly bent moulded and flared and sized differently on each end to fit properly.