What should have been a 15 minute exhaust change turned into this... The inside hex bolts stripped so I got a bolt grabber, It grabbed them till they broke leaving the screw part in the head.. I then went and got tools to drill out the hole and re tap it.. My impatient ass tried to do this at night with a very dim light and drill that was to big to fit in between the wheel and head, this is what i got... How screwed am I !! :technical: :technical: :technical: :technical: :technical: :oops:
(http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss148/sbag0024/mailgooglecom.jpg?t=1277405675)
(http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss148/sbag0024/head22.jpg?t=1277412013)
(http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss148/sbag0024/head11jpg.jpg?t=1277412043)
ahhh my trip to the broken-exhaust-bolt-in-the-head-and-effing-up-the-extraction land has been enjoyed by another.. though my damage wasnt that bad. time to look for a new head friend..
A shop told me It will be around $500 to fill it in and re-drill it.. most of that is the labor.. He said its prolly around $50 to just fill it and drill it if I could bring him the head. ( I found a site that shows how to take it off but idk if I should attempt it.
make sure of it. i went through all that jazz just recently (im actually finally putting my head back on today. hoping to ride by tonight)
if it's only 50 bucks though, that's a decent price and worth the work. i found a complete used head locally and they wanted 175 for it. still thinkin maybe i should have gone that route. ehh once im riding again i wont care
But this could be filled (with what?) and re drilled ( how strong will it be to rebolt my exhaust on?)
It's hard to tell from the pic, but it doesn't look too badly damaged?
Now that you've got the thing apart, would you mind taking a measure of the exhaust port diameter? It would save me the trouble of removing mine just to measure it.
Cheers
Quote from: Sbag0024 on June 24, 2010, 12:27:07 PM
But this could be filled (with what?) and re drilled ( how strong will it be to rebolt my exhaust on?)
that's something im not sure of. havent heard of that being done but i havent been around long enough to really know. i just assumed that if a shop said they could do it than they would do it.. xD
youre gonna need to pull that head off either way so you might as well bring it to them and see what they say when they see it in person?
good luck friend.
The port is close to 1 3/8". I found this... http://www.belzona.co.uk/ but idk if it will suit my need. Thank you for the help thus far =)
Machine out broken bolt remenant.
Prep and fill hole with Lumiweld or Belzona
Grind out port and prep surface.
Drill and tap hole to correct size/depth.
If a shop will do all that for $50 (£35)............... I will drop my pants in the local Asda :thumb:
The head is cast I would think. That means a heavier iron content? Can you simply weld that and have at it with a grinder/Dremmel?
Actually, I would save yourself the hassle and time and hit the Bay. For your time and costs, a new/used head would be a lot easier.
OK i loaded up some more pics...
The surface that mates with the gasket seems unharmed. A good tig welder should be able to fill out the damage once the old bolt is removed?
You could try grinding the piece of bolt away with small diamond dremel bit. If you're really careful it should be possible to leave just strips of thread to pick out.
Or try welding a piece of steel to what's left of the bolt and wrench it out.
Thanks for the info on the port size. Is the port hole actually that large, or is it the inner diameter of the exhaust gasket that is 1 3/8"?
Keep us updated on how it works out, and good luck!
I got a gent coming over tomorrow to look at it.. he seems to think he can save it for $240.. I will keep you posted =) .
OK.. i was able to drill on the other side of my f%$k up.. (pretty much where the old bolt was..) put in a gasket and used a self tapping bolt to hold the exhaust clamp on..
This thing sounds like a beast. I don't think there is a leak, as it has a lot more pick up and rides normal. I thought the motor was sounding odd for a min but I was hearing the noise from the plugs. Never heard a bike with the sides off lol.. Any who, the only concern is that when I let off the throttle and slow down I do get a pop here and there, but not always? Is this normal with a Jardine exhaust? I have a K&N drop in filter, Jardine exhaust. NOT JETTED YET... any idea? ty in advance =)
Quote from: Sbag0024 on June 24, 2010, 02:47:08 PM
I got a gent coming over tomorrow to look at it.. he seems to think he can save it for $240.. I will keep you posted =) .
Watch out.. For that kind of money he may plan on palming it.. and put another one in there when you're not looking.. :whisper:
Sounds like you've got some options, but If you need to replace the head, I'm about to take a busted one off my bike. If you need it PM me and I'll cut you a deal, you'd have to rebuild it but at least the the exhaust ports are nice and purdy. ;)
Quote from: O.C.D. on June 24, 2010, 01:22:33 PM
The head is cast I would think. That means a heavier iron content? Can you simply weld that and have at it with a grinder/Dremmel?
Actually, I would save yourself the hassle and time and hit the Bay. For your time and costs, a new/used head would be a lot easier.
the head is cast aluminum.
The head is made from an aluminium/magnesium/zinc based alloy.
I've seen some that have welded the exhaust to the bike.... not a good idea in my mind but it worked for them.
I'd opt for getting a shop to tig-weld it drill & tap the hole.
If you don't want to try to fix something that broke, order a replacement.
Thanks for clearing up the composition of the heads guys! :thumb:
I don't try and act like I know when I don't. :cheers:
My firewall at work would not let me see the picture, but I would probably try and get a Heli-coil in there. If the damage is worse than that, a machinist could cut away the bad part, press a plug in the cut hole to fill the space that they removed, and re-tap it back to original size. It would be pretty easy to do. You just need to take it off the bike.
Honestly that self tapping thread is a good idea, I'd have done the same thing, in fact I did ... In your case though I'd put a stud in there with thread losker, so you dont remove the thing @ the head, just remove the nut on that stud.
Cool.
Buddha.
Weld this! Drill that! Tap this, tap that!....I admire the optimism displayed but a little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
There is only one way to get an effective repair on this. Get the head off, get it to a good machine shop and let them examine it, they will then advise on what they consider is the best way to reclaim it, and lets face it they are the experts.......Any other method is a compromise and may well prove unreliable and any further attempts to `butcher` the stud remenant out will almost certainly cause futher damage and possibly render the head unrepairable.
I suggest when the repair has been carried out proffesionaly you use chrome plated studs/nuts instead of those s***e socket-caps to hold the header-flange against the port.
Thanks for the info BUddha, I used some RTV to fill in the chipped area (even though its actually not leaking) and I also filled in the hole I drilled with the same luquid gasket. I did not drill into the head or anything like that, I only drilled the bolt casing and where the old bolt used to be. I feel I am now safe and sound. I am thinking about getting a used head and make a winter project out of it. =)
And Sledge I think When I clean it this winter I will just take it to a shop to have it compleatly filled and drilled.
Ty again everyone. =)