so I was changing my oil, and putting the oil filter cover back on and the bottom bolt snapped off :mad: is this a tough fix? I need to buy a haynes I know....
thanks in advance guys!
If there's something to grip, grab some vise grips and remove the remaining stud. Replace it with similar sized bolt. If there isn't anything to grip try a bolt extractor. A little tedious and will cost you some if you don't the extractor.
Spray on penetrating oils will often help. If the bolt was hot, wait for it to cool down. If it was cold, try taking a torch to it. Careful using the penetrating oil and a torch. Unless you don't like your eyebrows.
Quote from: adam37745 on August 03, 2010, 04:57:05 PM
so I was changing my oil, and putting the oil filter cover back on and the bottom bolt snapped off :mad: is this a tough fix? I need to buy a haynes I know....
thanks in advance guys!
no book needed. a few hundred folks have done it on gstwins before:
stud left ? proceed with vice grips, hammer + punch, or cut a slit and use a flat head screwdriver.
no stud left ? proceed with hammer+ punch, or tack a nut on it, then turn it out
don't wanna risk it ? take it to a machine shop. we'll fix it in 10 minutes or less. prolly won't even charge you. just make sure to -ACT- like you're amazed ;-) even if you aren't. we're dogs that work for peanuts, but don't mind a little scratch o the ears now and then. :)
I'm with OHGOOD, even a novus should be able to do this. One cautionary note: Back one of the other studs out if it is not and note the angle. Do not tap into the head with an "easy-out" only tap into the broken threaded stock.
Did the same thing at the start of the season; you really don't need much force when you tighten the fliter cap on because of the seal.
Good luck.
If/when you get a replacement bolt make sure to match the threads.
is that a "special" bolt or can I pick it up at lowes?
Why do people even waste their time and effort with basic GS maintenance precautions about things like this and checking oil levels, next week someone is going to snap off an oil filter bolt or transform their engine into a useless hunk of metal by ignoring oil levels---it's inevitable, like the sunrise and sunset.
I wonder how many engines would be alive today if the GS had an oil sight window, why does Suzuki think the Bandit needs one and the GS doesn't?
Quote from: adam37745 on August 04, 2010, 01:57:35 PM
is that a "special" bolt or can I pick it up at lowes?
Its a metric bolt. Take one of the nuts with you to check you're getting the right thread. If you use a bolt instead of the stud and nut, you have to be VERY careful not to overtighten it, or you will strip the thread in the motor (its aluminium, so strips easily). The best option is to replace the stud.
The torque on that bolt should be about 2ft-lb, or a 4 pound pull at the end of a 6 inch spanner.
Quote from: ojstinson on August 04, 2010, 03:03:05 PMI wonder how many engines would be alive today if the GS had an oil sight window, why does Suzuki think the Bandit needs one and the GS doesn't?
What makes you think people would look at the window? The only way to inspect the oil level is to balance the bike. Honestly, I think the dip-stick is easier than the window for most riders.
Edit:
IMO: People let the engine run dry because they aren't used to dealing with air cooled engines. I strongly suspect that a lot of riders expect to be able to go 3K between inspections, as they do with cars.
You do have a point burning ----speaking of burning, have you ever tried to check your oil on a trip on a hot day and burned the hell out of your fingers with that dipstick---it's 12 times hotter than the surface of the sun. That's one of the reasons a sight glass is better, just put it on the center stand every time you gas up, and while your at it just cast a little glance at yon window.
Quote from: ojstinson on August 04, 2010, 04:53:42 PM
You do have a point burning ----speaking of burning, have you ever tried to check your oil on a trip on a hot day and burned the hell out of your fingers with that dipstick---it's 12 times hotter than the surface of the sun.
If you have leather gloves on, it's not so bad! :thumb:
Quote from: burning1 on August 04, 2010, 04:38:17 PM
I strongly suspect that a lot of riders expect to be able to go 3K between inspections, as they do with cars.
I'm sort of guilty of that one. The cars I've owned have generally been old and leak or consume oil, so I would check them every once in a while and top up between changes. When I got the GS I kept the same habit. At first I didn't check often enough because I found myself low(but not dangerously) about 2 times. There aren't any apparent external leaks since I park it in the same place and the ground is clean. I've just accepted that some oil is consumed and check often.
Quote from: adam37745 on August 03, 2010, 04:57:05 PM
so I was changing my oil, and putting the oil filter cover back on and the bottom bolt snapped off :mad: is this a tough fix? I need to buy a haynes I know....
thanks in advance guys!
The first time I did an oil change I did the exact same thing. I didn't have a clue how to fix it at the time so I broke down and took it to the dealer. It wasn't a cheap fix, about $100 or so. That's a lot considering the bolt only costs $2, and the gasket, $5 at most. They mentioned something about having to tap the bolt out and it took an "hour's" worth of labor. Maybe you can get a bolt extractor at a hardware store that just attaches to a drill. Bolts are harder to remove than screws, I assume. For now on I'm going to try to stay away from the dealer, unless I have to remove those engine header bolts, but I'm hoping that day won't come :D
Quote from: ohgood on August 03, 2010, 06:36:52 PM
Quote from: adam37745 on August 03, 2010, 04:57:05 PM
so I was changing my oil, and putting the oil filter cover back on and the bottom bolt snapped off :mad: is this a tough fix? I need to buy a haynes I know....
thanks in advance guys!
no book needed. a few hundred folks have done it on gstwins before:
stud left ? proceed with vice grips, hammer + punch, or cut a slit and use a flat head screwdriver.
no stud left ? proceed with hammer+ punch, or tack a nut on it, then turn it out
don't wanna risk it ? take it to a machine shop. we'll fix it in 10 minutes or less. prolly won't even charge you. just make sure to -ACT- like you're amazed ;-) even if you aren't. we're dogs that work for peanuts, but don't mind a little scratch o the ears now and then. :)
The only Suzuki dealer in the city charged me $60 for an hour's labor plus materials :icon_sad:
nice attitude ojstinson, I think the mistake I made was that I used too long of an extension, prob could have done it without any extension, but the DYI i was reading said to use one......
Quote from: rock_rebel on August 04, 2010, 06:40:36 PM
The only Suzuki dealer in the city charged me $60 for an hour's labor plus materials :icon_sad:
He said MACHINE SHOP, not stealership. They won't blow their own nose for free.... :2guns:
Adam, I think if you had read back even a week into this general discussion forum you probably would have seen 2 or 3 new guys had done the same thing. Also if you had a set of these and just snugged those nuts down just a bit you would be fine, these things keep you from getting too much leverage on brittle threaded fastening devices.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=100082010&catalogId=10053&storeId=10051&langId=-1 (http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=100082010&catalogId=10053&storeId=10051&langId=-1)
"nice attitude ojstinson"
You should see me when I have a bad attitude.
I reckon it'd be a great idea for anyone who is new at bike maintenance to buy $5 worth of assorted small nuts and bolts from the hardware store, thread them up, clamp them in the vice and wind them up till they strip/break. A lot of folks would be surprised how little force it takes on a 5mm thread!
Quote from: trumpetguy on August 04, 2010, 08:13:08 PM
Quote from: rock_rebel on August 04, 2010, 06:40:36 PM
The only Suzuki dealer in the city charged me $60 for an hour's labor plus materials :icon_sad:
He said MACHINE SHOP, not stealership. They won't blow their own nose for free.... :2guns:
You mean a bike machine shop? I wouldn't trust anyone who welds motors together to fix my bike engine.
The machine shops I have used for various work have a ton of very precise tools for honing....decking...fixing some hole that got boogered up. If you need precise overbore on a block...they are the guys. Not sure if that is the same type of machine shop or not but mine is pretty rough on the outside but pretty amazing machines inside. Good luck to you!
http://pantablo500.tripod.com/id10.html
Quote from: burning1 on August 04, 2010, 04:38:17 PM
Quote from: ojstinson on August 04, 2010, 03:03:05 PMI wonder how many engines would be alive today if the GS had an oil sight window, why does Suzuki think the Bandit needs one and the GS doesn't?
What makes you think people would look at the window? The only way to inspect the oil level is to balance the bike. Honestly, I think the dip-stick is easier than the window for most riders.
I'm with you on this. My Ninja 650 has a sight glass; to check it I have to haul out the lighted vanity mirror, level the moto, tilt the mirror just so...
To check my GS I just grab the dipstick.
Quote from: ojstinson on August 04, 2010, 03:03:05 PM
I wonder how many engines would be alive today if the GS had an oil sight window
Stick or glass?....does it really matter? The fact of the matter is people are for whatever reason overlooking one of the most vital parts of bike ownership and not checking the oil level on a regular basis.
Owning a bike requires intelligence, responsibilty, dilligence and comittment. If people do not own such qualities or have a problem displaying them maybe they should stick to walking eh? :thumb:
Mole, top idea. Will give a rider new to spanners and wrenches a lesson in how easy it is to damage fastners.