...did you run into problems with the master cylinder hitting the gauge bracket? If so, what was your solution? Doing a CBR F1 fork swap and I'm having clearance problems. I'm assuming I'll have to make up some custom brackets to move the gauges. Any input would be appreciated :thumb:
-Jessie
Mine was a bit of a pain. Ultimately I was able to change the angle of the clip-on and the lever to get it in there pretty snug. I think you may have a little more difficulty as I assume you're using the CBR clip-ons which are set at a specific angle.
CBR clip ons and CBR master cylinder. I also used braided steel brake lines so the banjo bolt is twice as long.
-Jessie
Are the F1 fork tubes 37mm? I still have the stock GS forks, but I'm pretty sure the clipons I used were from an F1. No clearance issues, but I was using the stock brake setup.
Actually come to think of it, are you trying to mount yours on top or below the top triple? Mine were below so I think that gave me plenty of clearance as well. I did at one point have them above, and don't remember any real issues, but you could try mounting them below. I also hated how far up the gauges stuck out without the stock bars, so at one point I moved them so I had some quarter inch, maybe even half inch spacers under that top bar clamp, then but the gauge faceplate under that and used some longer bolts, so it dropped the gauges down almost an inch, and that might give you a little more clearance as well. That probably sounded confusing, and I don't really have any pictures of it.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4004/4411156231_c6ac8903d9.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4207260413_923834276a_z.jpg)
I have them mounted above the triple clamp top for a more upright seating position. I'll get some pics of the issue when I have time. Thanks
-Jessie
I did have mine mounted above for a short period of time. It was a while ago, so I don't remember much about it, but I definitely don't remember any clearance issued. They fit on there fine and still gave me clearance to turn the bars to full lock, but I feel like the extra long bolt may give you a hard time as I definitely had to reangle my brake line slightly for a good fit.
tt_four, wen you lowered your gauges did you have any problems with it hitting the headlight (if I'm understanding your description correctly)?
I didn't have any problems with them hitting, but it is a little crowded behind there in general.
I should also mention that I had the headlights on separate mounting brackets when I lowered the gauges, so my headlight might've been lower than normal. If you want to put your clipons under the top clamp you have to remove the original headlight mount, which is why I had different ones on there.
Wow I must be tired. I misspelled just about every single word in that post and had to keep going back to fix them.
What about a gsxr style master cylinder--the reservoir is round and sits up higher...might give you the extra room you need.
I used to make longer tubes and sell em out of the handle bar scrap pieces just for this. A katana 1100 brake cylinder has the banjo in front BTW. That could be a substitute if you need one.
Cool.
Buddha.
i installed my vortex clip-on's and everything lined up perfectly
I didn't think to mention it before, since it's a different problem than you were having, but I think they probably have the same solution....
When I got my bars they were a little bit too short. They were close to fitting, but the throttle tube hung off the end of the bars about 1/4 inch, maybe 1/2. Wasn't a big deal because you don't put any weight on that part of the bar, but eventually I got the motivation to fix it. I cut off some extra bar from some steel mountain bike handlebars and got a steel rod that was just slightly larger than the ID of the clipons and the extra pieces. I pust some JB weld on and jammed/hammered the pieces together. I know it sounds excessive and unsafe, but even before the JB weld they were pretty firmly jammed in there. It gave me an extra inch to be able to slide everything out. and it's still only the very last inch, where again I don't really put any of my weight. Doing the same could let you slide everything you have out just a little bit so it wasn't hitting your gauges. The only thing I had to do was cut up the rubber a little bit from my bar ends now that the ID was skinnier.
One other possible, but similar solution would be to find some bar ends with a lip on the inside. I've had some that had a quarter inch or so of bar end that was the diameter of the handlebar before it turned into the normal bar end size. If you found some of those it would let you slide everything out that little bit giving you more space too.