So a couple weeks ago i was riding the Gs fairly hard, header bolts worked themselves loose, idle went crazy, oil light came on at idle.
Checked oil level, at the full mark, dipstick SMELLS like burnt oil, could see what looked like steam/smoke when removed dipstick(9:30pm in the street). pulled the valve cover/tightened bolts 100mi later everything looked fine.
now when fully warmed idleing at 1500, oil light flickers, triple digit ambient.
Cold/not fully warmed idles @ 1100-1200 NO oil light.(7 mile ride)
couldnt colder running temperatures, and lower rpms, cause the oil light to come on on their own? yet it comes on when warm? I would think thicker (warm) oil would reduce this.
95 gs, 04 gauges, replaced right crankcase cover/oil 3 weeks ago. valve shims 4 weeks ago. $5 castrol activ synth blend oil stuff.
as oil warms up it becomes thinner. therefore the pressure drops. the oil light doesnt just come on when your low, it will come on when the pressure is incorrect. if you were burning oil, then you were leaking oil into the cylinders, and a big enough leak, depending on where its coming from, will cause a loss in pressure thus triggering the light. as to the no light cold, and yes light warm issue, warm oil will also leak more, since the thinner, easier flowing oil will be easier to be pressed through leaks, where as cold oil may be too thick to be pushed through leaking spots. im sure some else could better explain it, this is just my guess.
I'm still not clear how loose exhaust header bolts have anything to do with oil pressure.
My theory:
Loose header bolts caused lean air/fuel mix, causing high engine temps, cooking the oil. Over cooked oil is now thin (and probably other problems).
Suggest you drain the $5/qt oil and put in conventional 10W-40 then check oil pressure.
sounds like your level is low, viscosity is wrong, or you have a damaged oil pump, but you're definitely spending way too much on your oil choice.
how are you checking the oil level ?
what viscosity oil are you using ?
Kragen auto had a special going for a gallon of shell rotella-t for $11, not sure if they still have it or not.
Quote from: Paulcet on October 05, 2010, 03:18:39 AM
My theory:
Loose header bolts caused lean air/fuel mix, causing high engine temps, cooking the oil. Over cooked oil is now thin (and probably other problems).
Suggest you drain the $5/qt oil and put in conventional 10W-40 then check oil pressure.
This is what i was thinking, just kind annoying to destroy week old oil. The GS burns less oil than my 2001 nissan sentra, and is still at full(10w 40).
oh cheap name brand car oil =$4/quart, cheapest MC specific in town =$5/quart, guess ill look into the rotella.
I think the first test would be to check the actual pressure. Then you can find out if the light is accurate.
I wonder if head gasket is blowing between cylinders and cam chain tunnel?
guess ill change the oil this weekend and let you all know.
Quote from: tucsondude on October 05, 2010, 05:34:51 PM
guess ill change the oil this weekend and let you all know.
Sounds like you may be on a budget. So, to save a few $ go to Wally world and buy SE or SF car oil. Its off to the side by gear and marine oil.
Thats not gonna have those newer car oil friction modifiers which make above SF grade not so good for bikes clutches.
I think you have a broken motor part, but best of luck. If the light comes on again after oil change turn it right off and dig into the mechanicals.