I have a oil leak coming from the top of the generator side right where the gasket seals on the engine casing. I purchased the following gasket #2 on the diagram below (SKU: 11482-44110
GASKET, CLUTCH COVER MODEL P/R)
I have the factory manual but i have no idea on what all this involves do i need to remove the generator aswell?
(http://webservices.motorsportdealers.com/parts/partImages/SUZ/2/09/48/0006.Gif)
Oh yea I meant to add that the bike only leaks oil while the engine is running and if the oil is topped off. Its strange its like the top of the gasket is bad and when the oil is being slung around it leaks from the top of the RH side casing.
Remove Round Signal Generator Cover on Clutch Side Cover...
(http://inlinethumb62.webshots.com/25213/2911220410073478356S600x600Q85.jpg)
Once removed you'll see this...Take a pic of it for future reference. Then remove large center bolt that goes into the end of the crank, remove metall barrel shaped item(Forgot the name of it), then undo the wiring and remove the complete signal generator.
(http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/36704/2895470100073478356S600x600Q85.jpg)
Next just remove the entire side cover. Clean both mating surfaces, I applied a small coating of black RTV on the clutch cover, then placed gasket on the cover, let it dry, then installed onto the engine.
(http://inlinethumb52.webshots.com/3507/2482442970073478356S600x600Q85.jpg)
Thats awsum! Thanks for all the detailed info, the manual doesn't cover this... Now if i only had a garage :mad: Ill be doing this outside.
Upon re assembly make sure that you properly locate the pressed pin (In the crank snout) into the receiving groove on the barrel shaped item that goes in the center of the signal generator.
I found a guy who's gonna let me use a small shed to work on this. My issue is my torque wrench is at my dads house and there's no way i can drive 3 hours to get it. Do you think im safe winging it on tighting the bolts?
I'd be leery about the Crank Bolt, I'd like to have that specifically trq.'d, and I'd also be real careful with the Side Cover bolts....If you have any experience wrenching, you know whats too tight and or about ready to snap....
I've sometimes had to work without my torque wrench, so what I do is a bit of calculating and a bit of guesswork. Let's say I need 20 ft-lbs of torque. First I measure the spanner or socket handle, not from end to end but from the centre of the bolt to the centre of where I grip the tool. Lets say that comes to 6 inches. I'm going to need to apply 40 lbs force to that spanner, because 1/2 a foot X 40 lbs = 20 ft-lbs. OK so far, how to I measure the force?
well, I get a container (jug, jerry can, whatever) and fill it with the right amount of water. Liter of water weighs 1kg. Then I pick that up, 'feel' the weight and apply that to the spanner. Can get pretty close with a bit of practice
Quote from: jebz240 on November 09, 2010, 06:31:15 PM
I found a guy who's gonna let me use a small shed to work on this. My issue is my torque wrench is at my dads house and there's no way i can drive 3 hours to get it. Do you think im safe winging it on tighting the bolts?
In this situation, I would forego the torque wrench. BUT. . . I have been wrenching for almost 20 years. Get a torque wrench, you can rent them. This is your time to learn what it feels like to wrench properly.
Also, great write-up, Fry. I do disagree with applying rtv or sealant with the gaskets. Buy only factory gaskets and they are made to exacting widths and are made to expand from contact with oil to seal better.
Looks like ill be renting a torque wrench, if Advanced auto rents them.
Quick questions, non of this is covered in the factory manual I assume when torquing the cover for reassembly i use do this diagonally and in steps as far as the the torque specs are concerned.
STOP
Check your o-ring on the oil dipstick. I had the same problem, or thought I did anyway. I replaced the o-ring on the dipstick and like magic it went away as far as I can tell. Turns out oil was welling out of the dipstick hole and running back along the engine cover.
Much easier than the hours you will spend scraping the gasket off of that cover. Ask me how I know...
Quote from: ivany on November 10, 2010, 11:51:28 PM
STOP
Check your o-ring on the oil dipstick. I had the same problem, or thought I did anyway. I replaced the o-ring on the dipstick and like magic it went away as far as I can tell. Turns out oil was welling out of the dipstick hole and running back along the engine cover.
Much easier than the hours you will spend scraping the gasket off of that cover. Ask me how I know...
I checked it and the o-ring is still on the dipstick and doesn't look cracked or anything, that was my first thought. Maybe ill just change it for the hell of it and see if its the culprit
Mine looked OK but had morphed into being shaped like its seat. The o-ring is supposed to be round in cross-section when you get it. As a result, I'd have to crank down on the oil dipstick to keep it from leaking.
Anyway, it's a lot easier to change the dipstick o-ring than it is to change the gasket. How much does it leak?
Quote from: ivany on November 11, 2010, 01:28:40 PM
Mine looked OK but had morphed into being shaped like its seat. The o-ring is supposed to be round in cross-section when you get it. As a result, I'd have to crank down on the oil dipstick to keep it from leaking.
Anyway, it's a lot easier to change the dipstick o-ring than it is to change the gasket. How much does it leak?
Ivany, i found the part on ebay for $5 shipped went ahead and got it. The oil seems to seep from the top of the clutch cover, cant really tell from where so I assumed the gasket. Its not leaking alot, the dipstick always reads fine. I topped it off and the leak is now worse.
Here is what the current O-ring looks like. Any thoughts?
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_LiiPGd63-PY/TNx6ztIqNGI/AAAAAAAAABA/UGJ3EBaAPJI/s1152/2010-11-11_17-36-33_123.jpg)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_LiiPGd63-PY/TNx6zyYQTiI/AAAAAAAAABE/pjO3CmvCHQM/s1152/2010-11-11_17-37-50_738.jpg)
Looks OK to me. I can't really tell - does it look like the O-ring has a circular cross-section, or is it triangle shaped like it's seat is? My o-ring on my 2000 was triangular in cross section. The new O ring is round. In my case, on the threads of the dipstick, I could tell that dirt was getting in around the o-ring - there was a black stripe on the part of the threads pointing to the front of my bike. Went on a road trip and noticed that oil was leaking from what appeared to be the top of the gasket and down the side of the engine case. Cranked down on the dipstick - leak went away for the next 500 miles of the trip. OTOH it developed a leak on the top of the gasket on the opposite side of the engine, during the same trip. I could actually see where the gasket had torn in that case.
Can you post a picture of where the leak is? Can you see the gasket, is it torn at all?
Quote from: Fry on November 06, 2010, 12:11:15 PM
(http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/36704/2895470100073478356S600x600Q85.jpg)
there is a tiny o ring where the signalgenorator/crankcase goes through the cover, make sure it doesnt disappear.
Errrr???......Some good advice but the obvious is being overlooked. You have checked that the run of bolts along the top edge of the cover where the leak is are actually tight.....right?? :thumb:
Quote from: sledge on November 12, 2010, 01:30:52 AM
Errrr???......Some good advice but the obvious is being overlooked. You have checked that the run of bolts along the top edge of the cover where the leak is are actually tight.....right?? :thumb:
Yup i checked all of the cover bolts they are all tight, the leak originates on the circled area below, and it seems to seep all over the entire engine and eventually drips to the exhaust, once again this is just when the engine is running. I might try the baby powder technique to make sure I know this is where its coming from. And I dont see any tears in the gasket.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_LiiPGd63-PY/TN1u0gEQJ-I/AAAAAAAAABg/CLGV5gdKjKc/s1152/2010-11-11_17-38-54_533.jpg)
Yep, that's where my oil was accumulating when it was coming from the dipstick. But it could well be coming from the gasket. Just suggest to check the easy things first :)
I've already bought that gasket to change on my bike. The other side went one already so who knows how long this side has...
Quote from: sledge on November 12, 2010, 01:30:52 AM
You have checked that the run of bolts along the top edge of the cover where the leak is are actually tight.....right?? :thumb:
I spent some time yesterday cleaning off the engine on my sons GS500F and taking out every bolt around the cover, applying rtv silicone to them, and replacing them. It was obvious there were leaks from two on the top left as you look at it. I figured why not do all of them at the same time?
I'll keep an eye on the dipstick o ring in future, never would have thought of that. That's along with watching the seals for the gear shifter and clutch pull rod. I know crap accumulates in there faster than you can clean it, but it sure looks like some oil coming out of that area. Never had a bike that leaked so much oil and I've been riding over 30 years.
So... using rtv on the bolts. hmmm never thought of that, seems like it would be a pain to take apart later.
Quote from: tucsondude on November 11, 2010, 10:28:01 PM
Quote from: Fry on November 06, 2010, 12:11:15 PM
(http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/36704/2895470100073478356S600x600Q85.jpg)
there is a tiny o ring where the signalgenorator/crankcase goes through the cover, make sure it doesnt disappear.
Oh F****
On a 95? Not listed in the Fische and now I cannot recall putting an oring in when I put the Signal Generator back in? I installed the Clutch Cover Crank Seal, but no o-ring, I dont think?
I just replaced my clutch cover with a new one and I didn't see any o-ring anywhere actually. There is a crank seal, o-ring for the dipstick and a crush washer for the oil drain at the bottom. That's it.
jebz240, it probably is the o-ring on your dipstick. Replace that and report back.
I wouldnt let Silicone/RTV anywhere near a bike of mine....no way!
When it sets pieces can break off internally and depending where it has been used these fragments can block up oilways, galleries or the oil-pump pickup. They can also get between the clutchplates and into the gear selector mechanism.
If you have to use a sealant stick to the semi-setting ones like Gascacinch or Hylomar. Its what they are designed for, any internal residue will dissolve and wont lead to any problems.
My bike has started doing this also :embarassed: . My guy double checked the bolts and they appeared to not be tight. Do these bolts just unloosen with time? My bike is two months out of warranty and it is leaking oil and something up with the starter. Can't tell if it is electrical or the starter itself. The stinking bolts that hold the starter in the heads came off with my pittiful twisting. I'm sorry but if a girl can break the heads off a bolt then that is cheap material.
Thanks Century, I knew I didn't put an O-Ring in the Signal Generator area. All I replaced, besides the cover gasket was the Crank Seal that's actually pressed into the cover, no o-rings that I could recall. Looked at the manuals, Parts Fiche and was about ready to tear it apart to have a look, and comb over my parts bins, LOL....
Okay so the O-ring has been ordered although i am not sure its the right part? It seems like Suzuki use the same part #09280-27002 O-rings for the crank case as they do for the dip stick. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120548823375&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1123
Should be here and on this weekend, let you all know the outcome, if the parts right.
Quote from: Fry on November 12, 2010, 06:34:57 PM
Quote from: tucsondude on November 11, 2010, 10:28:01 PM
Quote from: Fry on November 06, 2010, 12:11:15 PM
...img
there is a tiny o ring where the signalgenorator/crankcase goes through the cover, make sure it doesnt disappear.
Oh F****
On a 95? Not listed in the Fische and now I cannot recall putting an oring in when I put the Signal Generator back in? I installed the Clutch Cover Crank Seal, but no o-ring, I dont think?
i have never seen a picture of the o ring, dont really think you can order it, jsut noticed it by accident on my old cover after i replaced it and was checkign out the jb weld/ cracks on it... went ahead and started the bike, and it ran fine... so i assume its in there on the replacement cover, ridden i think 2k mi since then...