I am thinking about installing larger battery or adding a second one to my GS. I am planning to ride for as long as there is no ice on the roads but the only problem is that starting GS500 in a winter is really hard.
Point in case:
- in the morning bike started on first turn of motor (garage kept overnight)
- in the afternoon it had to turn 5 times before it started (bike sat outside for 7 hours and it was 38 degrees today = not cold)
I don't have problem with 5 turns but I know that when temperature drops even more I will probably not get those 5 turns from battery.
So, I want to replace the battery with bigger one so it has more cranking power, or optionally add a second one to increase the total amount of juice it can hold. (11 Ah * 2 = 22 Ah)
MY QUESTION: has anybody replaced their battery with larger one? Or added second battery? If yes what larger battery can be used? Maybe from other bigger bike?
I have K&N lunchbox so there is little extra room for bigger battery. I can modify the battery basket to accommodate bigger battery.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts!
KML
increasing your amp hours isn't really going to help with cranking. It's your coldcranking amps(CCA) that you need to increase. Also, keep in mind most normal batteries are temp sensitive, so they don't have the strength in the cold.
If I were you, I'd switch to an 8 cell (or 12 if you really really want to, although it's totally overkill) LiFePO4 battery pack. They aren't temp sensitive, and you get all the CCA you could need.
Or you could just rejet, after a stage 1 I never even had to use choke again. It was the most cold-natured bike in the world before. Maybe I just got lucky with it though.
I bought one of those TruGel batteries and my bike cranks right up and starts in somewhat cold temps. It had a hard time cranking with the previous battery which was a brand new "standard maintenance free" type. My temps are in the mid 30's F. sometimes gets below freezing. I think it was around $70 when I bought it.
Quote from: redhenracing2 on December 03, 2010, 08:59:18 PM
Or you could just rejet, after a stage 1 I never even had to use choke again. It was the most cold-natured bike in the world before. Maybe I just got lucky with it though.
You think I would be running lunchbox without rejet?
Quote from: saxman on December 03, 2010, 08:55:30 PM
increasing your amp hours isn't really going to help with cranking. It's your coldcranking amps(CCA) that you need to increase. Also, keep in mind most normal batteries are temp sensitive, so they don't have the strength in the cold.
If I were you, I'd switch to an 8 cell (or 12 if you really really want to, although it's totally overkill) LiFePO4 battery pack. They aren't temp sensitive, and you get all the CCA you could need.
Could you point me to some online retailer that sells those things?
Quote from: ramennoodles on December 03, 2010, 09:06:43 PM
I bought one of those TruGel batteries and my bike cranks right up and starts in somewhat cold temps. It had a hard time cranking with the previous battery which was a brand new "standard maintenance free" type. My temps are in the mid 30's F. sometimes gets below freezing. I think it was around $70 when I bought it.
For the peace of mind that my bike starts after I am done with work or school I am willing to spend even more than $70. Do you know how many CCA your battery have?
thanks
I just ran quick search on Google on those LiFePO4 battery packs and I don't think I am willing to spend about $300 - $500 on a battery...
EDIT: I will have to measure tomorrow how much room exactly I have to work with.
Right now I am looking at those:
http://www.batteryprice.com/powersonic-YHD-12-12vleadacidmotorcyclebattery.aspx
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&q=motorcycle+battery&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=12195025252612613092&ei=Wsr5TJWWA8H88AaQyvG1Cw&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=2&ved=0CHIQ8wIwAQ#
http://cgi.ebay.com/A123-batter-4s2p-13-2V4-6AH-motorcycle-starting-power-/190465884875?pt=US_Batteries&hash=item2c58a6c2cb
There's one for $90
Or you can fab one up yourself. I bought 10 of the cells needed for $60. I'm planning on only running a 4 cell battery on my bike.
I'm going into my 27th winter now riding my bikes year around here in NE Ohio. I'm out for a ride whenever the streets/roads are free of ice and snow and temps are above 20F. Had 97 then 02 GS500/E's for the past 11 years and put over 160k miles on them. The GSs have been parked in a unheated garage without electricity. They started most of the time all winter except for a couple maybe a few days depending how severe the season is and I'd have to jump them from the car. The garage is across the street behind another apt bldg so I'd have to walk back to get the car for a jump.
Got a battery jumper pack about 3 years ago I keep in garage with bike and it jumps the bike with the power of a car battery as quck as I hit the starter and only takes a minute to get going. I also use the power pack to plug in a work light and air pump as needed and it's good for all winter on one charge done by plugging it into a 110v outlet for a night. Could carry with me in my small Givi trunk if I expected to leave the bike parked out for a long time away from home in very cold weather.
http://www.batterychargers.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductName=94026903
Back in Mar of 09 I put an AGM sealed battery in my 02 GS and only had to jump the bike once all last winter when I ran the battery down going out for short trips several days in a row. The AGM starts it much quicker cranking faster than the old lead/acid batteries did when cold.
http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/motorcycle/sYT10L-A2.html
The best solution of all for winter riding is to trade your GS in on a bike with a kick starter. I had an old CM400A around for years with a kick starter and I could grind the electric starter until it would barely growl and not turn anymore and then give it just one kick and ride off. :thumb:
If you're willing to spend some $, maybe one of these light weight buggers SpeedCell SBK Battery (http://www.motowheels.com/italian/myProducts.cfm?parentcategoryid=915%7CBatteries%20and%20Battery%20Accessories&productID=6814&showDetail=1&categoryID=915%7CBatteries%20and%20Battery%20Accessories&vendoridtodisplay=0&filterFor=&collection)
Michael
Quote from: mister on December 04, 2010, 12:20:51 AM
If you're willing to spend some $, maybe one of these light weight buggers SpeedCell SBK Battery (http://www.motowheels.com/italian/myProducts.cfm?parentcategoryid=915%7CBatteries%20and%20Battery%20Accessories&productID=6814&showDetail=1&categoryID=915%7CBatteries%20and%20Battery%20Accessories&vendoridtodisplay=0&filterFor=&collection)
Michael
Same thing as the ebay link I posted.
Quote from: ramennoodles on December 03, 2010, 09:06:43 PM
I bought one of those TruGel batteries and my bike cranks right up and starts in somewhat cold temps. It had a hard time cranking with the previous battery which was a brand new "standard maintenance free" type. My temps are in the mid 30's F. sometimes gets below freezing. I think it was around $70 when I bought it.
For the peace of mind that my bike starts after I am done with work or school I am willing to spend even more than $70. Do you know how many CCA your battery have?
thanks
[/quote]
according to their website it is 170cca at -18 degrees C. This is the mg10la2 which was a direct fit battery. Here is the link to the pdf: http://www.bikemaster.com/images/bm08/BMTruGelBattery/BMTruGelInstructions.pdf (http://www.bikemaster.com/images/bm08/BMTruGelBattery/BMTruGelInstructions.pdf) I see other batteries they list with lots more cca with size dimensions too. What I would do is get the direct fit battery and if it's still not enough then use your old battery as the second battery. Could you fit two batteries in there? One would be under the gas tank right? Also these are completely sealed and nothing to spill out so maybe you could get a bigger size and fit it in sideways
I think you guys convinced me to try AGM or Gel Battery. It seems like a good price to benefit ratio :thumb:
And like ramennoodles said if it's still not enough I will try to fit my current battery as a second one in place where air box used to be.
I will take some measurements today and see if maybe I can fit larger gel battery sideways as it was suggested.
Happy riding everyone.
Stay warm!
move to Australia.... problem solved
sure it get to 10 - 15 degs C at night in winter but you also get 20 deg C days
just watch the summer if its 38degs C outside my bedroom temp when i get home from work can get to about 45
It would be enough for me to move to Cali but I am afraid of that long overdue earthquake they're suppose to have in SF... haha
I just bough that. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TruGel-Battery-MG10L-A2-Kawasaki-KZ450-KZ650-KZ900-NEW-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53e3491036QQitemZ360295501878QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3055wt_940
Decided that it doesn't make too much sense to go crazy modifying current battery basket.
My battery was about 3 years old anyways, so it sooner or later would have to be replaced.
thanks for info guys!!
Merry X-Mas / Happy Holidays to everyone!
Can these gel-cell or AGM batteries be kept on a battery tender jr? I'm not too familiar with these newer non-acid ones, so I thought it might be better to ask prior to making a purchase.
I replaced mine with a Yusa 12a, before that I used friend's 14a for a while, both are good...and they are sealed, maintenance free.....
they have a little bigger size, since I've throw the battery case away so it doesn't really bother
(http://i52.tinypic.com/166aezq.jpg)
I was looking into something like this a while back. What I was gonna do is get a second battery box and mount it in front of the current box. Run a second battery in the winter, then maybe just run the front one in the summer, and use the rear battery box for storage.
I park mine outside under a bike cover,starting lately has been a little slow(minus temp`) solution;
boil the kettle pour it on motor and headers,works for me.
and where am I suppose to keep that kettle while I am in school? :dunno_white:
It would be easier to carry jump starter in my backpack...
Your battery is not well. A standard battery in good condition will start your bike in temperatures below freezing provided the fueling is correct. However, your ride to school should have 5-10 minutes over 5000 rpm to recover the lost charge from starting.
Yes, you can put in a bigger battery. Another thing you can do is to add a relay to turn off the headlight while the starter button is pressed.
I realized that my relatively short commute may not be charging the battery very well.
On Friday I charged my battery overnight using automotive charger (2 Amp setting) and my bike actually started right away on Saturday after sitting about 6 hours in about 40 degrees.
My commute is 4 miles in the morning which takes about 15 minutes, but some of it is just idling on red lights, in the afternoon though it usually takes me about 30-40 minutes to get to school (7 miles) but it also often is sitting in traffic more than riding.
I ordered that BikeMaster TruGel battery already so I will give it a try. Being a newer technology + 170 CCA in -18C should provide plenty of starting power.
I will however try to charge my battery using that automotive charger every weekend to maintain fullest possible charge.
Quote from: Paulcet on December 05, 2010, 08:07:45 PM
Another thing you can do is to add a relay to turn off the headlight while the starter button is pressed.
I actually though about it. Last year I used to manually unplug my headlight before attempting to start my bike. It helped a lot!
Could you please tell me some more about it? How expensive such relay is? Where can I get one, preferably online. How can I do it (step by step guide or simple tutorial would be awesome)?
I would greatly appreciate!
HA! I think I found part of my starting problem.
My charging system seems to be messed up somewhat. I tested it with multimeter today, and on idle it shows 13.6V - 13.9V and above 3000 RPMs it shows only 12.9V - 13.0V.
I actually noticed that long time ago but didn't have any real issues because of that so I though it was normal.
Just now I realized that it's a source of my starting problems.
My battery never gets 100% charged.
What do I need to check to verify that there really is a problem, if there is what needs to be replaced?
Thanks,
KML
I just found out that my charger has built in alternator check. I will do some tests tonight.
What are other ways to test charging system?
EDIT: OK, found other ways: http://www.ehow.com/how_5283056_check-motorcycles-charging-system.html
If I have time I will try to run those tests tonight.
So I ran couple of tests for my charging system
1. I used my Black & Decker Smart charger to check voltage
This time the voltmeter showed about 12.7V on idle, and 13.9V when engine revved up over 3000RPMs
2. I couldn't believe that it suddenly was all good so I took another tool to check voltages
Same thing = all good
3. Just to make sure that my charging system is fine I again used that Smart Charger to check the alternator, hooked it up, revved to 5000, pressed alternator check, it took about 10-15 seconds and it showed voltage is in proper range.
4. Repeated test above with heated grips on, and again it showed me OK
So my guess is that in the morning my battery might have been a little drained from cold starting and that's why it didn't show proper voltage...
My bike stay alot outside, I have noticed the following:
If:
-the battery is good (less than 2 years, I personally change my battery every 2-3 years)
-recharged (during the winter I full my batterie every 1-2 week with a charger)
-the jeting is correct
Then the bike should start well (full chock on) even when it's cold (I've test up to -3 degree celcius, that's below water frozing temp)!
If:
-the battery is old
-or not recharged enough because you don't ride enough time so your bike recharge it and you don't charge it with a battery charger or your alternator is dead
Then the bike won't start when it's cold. But it's not that much of a problem, you can start the bike manually since the gs is light it's not hard at all.
In conclusion: no need for extra/bigger battery!
I was surprised by how well the trugel battery actually worked for me. It came already charged and I haven't had to charge it at all since I got it. My bike sat for about three weeks and still started right up with the first crank in the cold. I hope it solves your problem like it solved mine. I'm also running factory stock jets
^^^
that sounds awesome.
I highly doubt that after 3 weeks of not using my bike it would start.
I can't wait for that new battery.
Like I said before, I will give it good charge using automotive charger once in a while to maintain good charge, to compensate for my relatively short commute.
Quote from: kml.krk on December 07, 2010, 07:42:07 PM
^^^
that sounds awesome.
I highly doubt that after 3 weeks of not using my bike it would start.
I can't wait for that new battery.
Like I said before, I will give it good charge using automotive charger once in a while to maintain good charge, to compensate for my relatively short commute.
yeah, my commute is a total of 5 miles round trip to school. :icon_rolleyes: lol so kml.krk, can the gel batteries be charged with a standard battery tender?
The battery charger that I have (Black & Decker Smart Charge) lets you choose 3 types of batteries:
WET, GEL, AGM
it also lets you choose Amps:
2, 10, 15
it is a 3 stage charger, with built in protection so you won't accidentally fry your battery if you try to charge motorcycle battery on 15 Amp setting :thumb:
It also has build in alternator check and float charger, series of messages pop up on the little screen if something is not right.
It's quite sophisticated for what it is :D
I put in the TruGel battery yesterday. Bike started right up after work.
Today was warm (45F) so it's not a real indicator, but after 6 hrs at school bike started right up.
It sounds like the starting motor is spinning faster now. (I think GSJack mentioned that)
After battery arrived I hooked it up to a charger and after few seconds it showed FULL, so either Gel batteries don't loose charge while on the shelf or the seller charged it before shipping (I doubt they did)
so far so good,
as soon as I have some spare time I will install the headlight cutoff relay to increase starting power even more.
When you do get to work on the headlight relay, i think you'll provide great assistance if you can include some photos of it :thumb:
I haven't been riding for the past two weeks. I went for vacation.
Now there is lots of snow on the ground (overnight snow storm) so no more riding for me for next two days until the city can get rid of snow on the streets.
I don't mind riding in cold but riding in snow with summer tires is a suicide...
IF I decide to install the relay I will try to take some pics. I am unsure if I will do it however because since I upgraded the battery I didn't have any issues with starting in cold.
Bike died few times during warm-up in less than 30 deg but the battery provided enough juice to keep cranking.
Stay Warm!!
KML
Quote from: kml.krk on December 05, 2010, 10:16:58 PM
Quote from: Paulcet on December 05, 2010, 08:07:45 PM
Another thing you can do is to add a relay to turn off the headlight while the starter button is pressed.
I actually though about it. Last year I used to manually unplug my headlight before attempting to start my bike. It helped a lot!
Could you please tell me some more about it? How expensive such relay is? Where can I get one, preferably online. How can I do it (step by step guide or simple tutorial would be awesome)?
I would greatly appreciate!
I am confused! On all three of my bikes, the headlight goes off when the starter is engaged. I thought there is ALREADY a relay in there to do that, why would you need another relay to do the same thing?
Cookie
Not ALL bikes do that. Some (like most GS500s) keep the headlight powered during start-up.
Quote from: Paulcet on January 12, 2011, 08:11:02 PM
Not ALL bikes do that. Some (like most GS500s) keep the headlight powered during start-up.
Must be a country thing maybe. Cause all GS's I am aware of down here, cut power to the headlight when starting.
Michael
Quote from: mister on January 12, 2011, 09:55:52 PM
Quote from: Paulcet on January 12, 2011, 08:11:02 PM
Not ALL bikes do that. Some (like most GS500s) keep the headlight powered during start-up.
Must be a country thing maybe. Cause all GS's I am aware of down here, cut power to the headlight when starting.
Michael
This is my understanding.....let me know if I am incorrect.
In places (Countries) (like USA) where headlights are required to be "on" at all times, day or night when riding...
The headlight turns "on" when the key is turned to the "on" position.......When the starter is engaged with the start button, a relay turns the headlight "off" until the bike starts, and the relay turns the headlight "on" again.
There is no dedicated switch for the headlight.
In places (Countries) where the headlight is not required to be "on" all the time, the bikes are fitted with headlight switches. So you leave the headlight "off" during starting, and turn the headlight "on" when you want/need light.
Either way, there is no need for "another" relay.........
Cookie
Would just turning on the bike, without starting it, "warm up" the battery/electricals enough to get a good start?
Quote from: twocool on January 13, 2011, 06:13:05 AM
In places (Countries) (like USA) where headlights are required to be "on" at all times, day or night when riding...
The headlight turns "on" when the key is turned to the "on" position.......When the starter is engaged with the start button, a relay turns the headlight "off" until the bike starts, and the relay turns the headlight "on" again.
There is no dedicated switch for the headlight.
My gixxer leaves them on when starting, but with the h.i.d. kit they kind of flash back and forth. Mom's ex250 does not even turn on the headlights until the engine is already running, they don't come on with the key.
And actually, my 'high beam' switch cuts out the lights O0
Is there a wiring diagram for recent US models available? I believe the one in the wiki shows no such relay.
I live in USA, I have 2004 model.
My headlight stays on ALL THE TIME after turning the key to ON position.
Which means that I do NOT have relay installed by default.
It was said somewhere here that newer models in USA have that relay installed by default.
has anyone used one of these dry cell batteries
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/applications/motorcycles.htm
Quote from: manoj on January 13, 2011, 05:48:16 PM
has anyone used one of these dry cell batteries
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/applications/motorcycles.htm
Technically not a "dry cell" as we normally think...like the normal Eveready carbon type dry cell we used in toys as kids. Or even alkeline batteries of today, which are "dry Cells".
The odyssey battery has glass mats in it....the electrolite is soaked into these mats.....this is nothing more than a fancy SLA battery....(sealed lead acid)..........
At about 2x the cost of a "normal" motorcycle battery, I am sceptical as to wheter it is worth it. Is it a 2x better battery?
I've never has a problem with the batterys in my bikes, in my cars, or in my airplanes......sure they need replacement, but they function wonderfully. and last as expected.......I am not sure this fancy thechnology actually offers anything above the "regular" lead acid, and sealed lead acid batteries.
I call this a "solution without a problem"
Cookie
Quote from: Paulcet on January 13, 2011, 07:30:00 AM
Is there a wiring diagram for recent US models available? I believe the one in the wiki shows no such relay.
I've got wiring diagrams for 99 thru 09..........usa....they all show the headlight and tail light wired through the main starter relay....BUT this does not mean they are wired for the light to shut off during starting, just that the light wires go through the relay.
It also looks like this relay is different in about 04 or 05 onward ..........wired slightly differently..........
I have to look and see just how they diagramed this relay to figure out if it actually cuts the light or not......also will try my bike when I get to the shop today.......Maybe I just "thought" the headlight goes off during starting......It does on my tow hondas for sure, but now I am not sure about the GS 500.
Cookie
Quote from: twocool on January 14, 2011, 07:00:05 AM
Quote from: Paulcet on January 13, 2011, 07:30:00 AM
Is there a wiring diagram for recent US models available? I believe the one in the wiki shows no such relay.
I've got wiring diagrams for 99 thru 09..........usa....they all show the headlight and tail light wired through the main starter relay....BUT this does not mean they are wired for the light to shut off during starting, just that the light wires go through the relay.
It also looks like this relay is different in about 04 or 05 onward ..........wired slightly differently..........
I have to look and see just how they diagrammed this relay to figure out if it actually cuts the light or not......also will try my bike when I get to the shop today.......Maybe I just "thought" the headlight goes off during starting......It does on my two Hondas for sure, but now I am not sure about the GS 500.
Cookie
OK Just checked out my GS 500 at the shop.....headlight goes out when starter button is pushed! This is a 2009......
My 04 seems to do it too. But i just always thought it was from the current draw.
Quote from: GI_JO_NATHAN on January 14, 2011, 10:28:00 AM
My 04 seems to do it too. But i just always thought it was from the current draw.
Hmmmmm.......well on my GS the headlight goes off ......so if that was due to current draw.....it would be one heck of a lot of current.
For comparison, I just started my car with the headlights on.....they dim slightly when the starter is engaged, due to the draw of the starter, but not much...certainly they don't go out!
Cookie
Twocool: You think you can scan the diagram and upload to the wiki?
Quote from: Paulcet on January 14, 2011, 06:11:57 PM
Twocool: You think you can scan the diagram and upload to the wiki?
Well maybe...but a couple of problems....first, I am just about computer illiterate.......second, I think they are sort of touchy about uploading "copyrighted material".
They got pissed at me when I suggested a place on the internet where you can download the sevrice manual.
Finally, if you take the wiring diagram literally, the symbol for the starter solenoid only shows ONE magnet switch, the switch to the starter. Bu tthen again, they only call it a "schematic". Maybe I am interpreting it incorrectly.
Funny, I wire airplane avionics for a living......but our wiring diagrams are much more literal, and less schematic!!
Cookie
Ok.....had some time to sit down and study the wiring diagrams.........
So here's my story and I'm sticking with it.
It's not a solenoid, it's not a relay!!!!!
It's in the starter button!!!!!!!!!
For the '05 and earlier model....the start button is just that.....push the button and the starter engages (by way of one solenoid and one relay. NOTHING to do with headlights..........headlights stay on during starting....
For the '06 and later models..........Different starter switch..........
They ran the headlight circuit THROUGH THE STARTER BUTTON!!!
So... the starter button has two positions......
1) starter button "not pushed"...the headlight circuit is closed....headlight is on when ignition key is "on"
2) starter button "pushed".....opens the headlight circuit.....and activates the solenoid and the starter relay and the starter..........headlight is now "off"
Once the engine starts, you release the button, and the headlight circuit is again closed...headlight "on"........
(also tail light)
Cookie
I have 3 bikes in my garage and all three work like Cookie just described. The other two are Hondas. On one of the Honda boards, it is often recommended to push the start button BEFORE turning your key to the run position.
Unless there is something really new, AGM batteries are lead acid and can be treated as such.
There is a lot to be said for consistent use of a Battery Tender brand maintainer for lead acid batteries. They really keep the battery "fresh".
The new LiFe (Lithium Ferrite) batteries are light and energy dense, but are crappy in cool to cold weather.
prs
Quote from: Pigeonroost on January 15, 2011, 09:46:20 AM
I have 3 bikes in my garage and all three work like Cookie just described. The other two are Hondas. On one of the Honda boards, it is often recommended to push the start button BEFORE turning your key to the run position.
Unless there is something really new, AGM batteries are lead acid and can be treated as such.
There is a lot to be said for consistent use of a Battery Tender brand maintainer for lead acid batteries. They really keep the battery "fresh".
The new LiFe (Lithium Ferrite) batteries are light and energy dense, but are crappy in cool to cold weather.
prs
Yes, my other two bikes also are Hondas, and the same deal with the starter switch.
Good idea to push the switch first, so you're not burning the headlight BEFORE starting. If you have a good battery it shouldn't matter though.
But on the GS there is a clutch interlock switch.....so you would need three hands.....one to hold clutch....one to push starter button, and one to turn the key! (my hondas, you only need to be in neutral to start...only have to hold clutch if you try to start in gear)
Yeah AGM is still a lead acid battery....only twice the cost...they do make some claims to some advantages, but I do not see these as advantages to motorcycle.........well they claim they have no gas venting....so no need for vent hose, and less chance for corrosion around battery box.....but an SLA battery would do the same for less cost. They also claim more cranking power per battery size due to more pure lead in the plates...but my regular battery cranks fine! They also claim deeper discharge possible (but I have heard conflict on that) but a motorcycle does not deep discharge.......so the advantages are not advantages, and the cost is a disadvantage.
I spent my extra $30 on a battery tender JR........use it on the motorcycle and I have lots of SLA batteries for other purposes....works good on all them too.
Cookie
Quote from: twocool on January 15, 2011, 03:09:56 PM
But on the GS there is a clutch interlock switch.....so you would need three hands.....one to hold clutch....one to push starter button, and one to turn the key!
Cookie
That's too easy to bypass if you ever wanted to though. I'll never go back to having clutch switch connected.
Quote from: GI_JO_NATHAN on January 15, 2011, 04:39:20 PM
Quote from: twocool on January 15, 2011, 03:09:56 PM
But on the GS there is a clutch interlock switch.....so you would need three hands.....one to hold clutch....one to push starter button, and one to turn the key!
Cookie
That's too easy to bypass if you ever wanted to though. I'll never go back to having clutch switch connected.
Well, that's a good point........I thought it was a little strange to have the clutch interlock when there is already a neutral interlock.......My hondas don't have both, just neutral interlock....
Then of course there's the side stand interlock.......'84 honda ..no 04 honda...yes
Cookie
Yeah i had to bypass mine when i ran an aftermarket clutch perch. I love it walk up, turn the key, if you see the green light, hit the starter button.
This might be helpful... http://www.12voltdistributors.com/capacitors/soundstream-scell300-300-16v-high-current-power-cell-p-23742.html
300A for 3 seconds is PLENTY to start the bike. I would wire it on a relay run from the starter switch though... to keep it from getting used up by accessories or something other than the starter. Search "capacitor battery" on ebay for more options. This should leave the main battery with its deeper discharge as a 2nd/backup.
http://www.porta-jump.com/
This work even when voltage drops below 12 takes about 3 min to surface charge the battery on my VS800..carry this in my backpack all the time
kml.krk, hows the battery working out for you? I haven't started mine for about 6 months. Went to start it. Prime, choke, and crank. It fired right up. The trugel battery didn't seem to loose any kind of charge.
Battery is working fine BUT I had to send the first one to manufacturer.
It got bad after about a month or two of regular usage.
They exchanged it no problem though! I just had to pay one way shipping.
I finally man'ed up and went with a Scorpion AGM battery.$54US and free shipping.They're way better in winter and won't freeze like flooded lead acid batteries.
http://www.batterystuff.com/powersports-batteries/sYT10L-A2.html
(http://www.batterystuff.com/images/products/645x_syt10l-a2_md.jpg)
my TruGEL battery was much better than stock in winter too, until it died...
it was starting beautifully in below freezing temperature after sitting for 8 hours outside.
then it died (failed load test) making me push start my bike in winter, which is not much fun if you have never done it before.
thanks to youtube videos however I managed to do it fairly easily :thumb:
The problem with push starting in winter is that oil gets really thick so it's quite hard to push the bike. I believe I had to push start it in 3rd gear.
I only weight 160lbs so that was a part of pushing issue LOL