Quote from: ViD381Did I put enough gas in it? I only put about a gallon to see if it would run.
This sounds like the experience I had with MY first tank of gas. A gallon is just about enough to get you to the "edge" of the REServe. Put in another gallon or two.
If your vacuum line isn't leaking, and the bike runs well on PRI, this should do it. You're certainly not revving the engine high enough and long enough to experience "fuel starvation" like you MIGHT on a long, high-speed run.
It is quite possible that the frame mounted fuel switch is partially plugged or not working properly. They are flaky at best.
If it runs fine on Prime, just run it that way until you feel like taking the fuel switch apart. There is a screen and some small passages in it that can get blocked. Or the diaphram might be leaking.
If you are running on Prime, you'll have to watch the fuel level in the tank I think. I can't remember if Prime feeds off the reserve or main line, but if it doesn't run right on Reserve, it isn't goint to matter much.
I doubt oil is leaking from a wire. The only place wires penetrate an oil filled cavity is the alternator leads on the left engine cover. We need a bit more info to figure out where the oil might be leaking. The tach drive maybe? It attaches to the head on the right front side.
Quote from: ViD381I've got oil leaking from a wire going into my engine right above the two manifold pipes that go to the muffler. Can I just tighten it? And do I need to take the entire engine apart if I want to take just that wire out? I was thinking that I would be able to use some plumbers tape on the threads.
Sounds like the good old "loose tachometer cable" has struck again!
Yep, just tighten it with pliers. Don't forget to wrap something around it so you don't strip the knurled connector on the end of the cable. If it still
feels loose, or the leak persists, add in the plumber's tape.
Or, if you only want to do it once, use the plumber's tape the first time!
I think you just have a fuel flow/carb problem. The transmission is likely OK if it shifts.
The fuel switch is the thing with "Prime", "On', and "Reserve" settings on it. One thing you might try before taking it off, is to make sure the tank petcock is turned on all the way. It is right up on the tank where the fuel hoses come out of. There is a petcock that you can turn the fuel off with a straight screw driver there. Make sure it is truned all the way on.
You said it works better set at Prime? Just run it there.
Quote from: KevinC...to make sure the tank petcock is turned on all the way.
Yeah, what Kevin said.
In case it's not obvious, you have to turn the slot so it's vertical. If you turn it so it's leaned to one side or the other, the flow will be restricted.
You have blocked passage ways in the carbs or something very strange with them. Did you put the little o-rings back under the diaphram caps (black plastic lids at the top), and are the vacuum boots on the vacuum ports on the diaphram caps?
The plastic spacers are under the needles?
The diaphrams don't have tears or holes in them?
Your carbs sound screwed up. Pretty hard to diagnose over e-mail.
Let's go back to the beginning.
1) Is it true that the bike runs fine on PRI, and only exhibits the "bad" behavior when it's set to ON or RES?
If so, then the carburetors are fine, and the only possible problems would have to do with fuel flow: restriction in the fuel line(s), insufficient vacuum between the left carb and the ON/RES/PRI petcock, internal problem in the petcock itself.
2) If the bike runs poorly even on the PRI setting (when you crank the throttle nothing happens), then I'd say you have a fuel MIXTURE problem. This doesn't rule out fuel flow problems, of course - you could have both.
The fact that the weird stuff happens at certain throttle positions seems to point to jets or needles. You'd have to ask someone who knows more about carbs than I do - for more specific info about which parts affect which throttle positions.
When you cleaned the carbs, did you make sure the holes in the jets were totally free of any kind of gunk? Compared to having dirty jets, dirty bowls (or most other carb parts) are nothin'.
Yep, there should be two vacuum caps, one on each carb. That could explain most of your problems - no vacuum to raise the slide on one carb, and beacuse they are joined together it will effect the other carb as well. And it will reduce the vacuum that goes to the fuel switch, so it won't open completely at the "On" and "Reserve" settings.
Plug the other vacuum port, and see how it goes.
Both carbs should have identical washers etc. There are exploded diagrams at:
http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/oem_schematic_view.asp?schem_dept_id=137676&section_dept_id=1&section_dept_name=OEM+%28Stock+Parts%29&dept_type_id=2&model_dept_year=1994&model_dept_mfr=Suzuki&model_dept_id=109280&model_dept_name=GS500E%28R%29
You need the vaccum cap (#14 in that diagram) on each carb, and you need that little o-ring (#26) under each cap.
Okay, mine looks just like that. Part #53 is a vacuum like correct? well, I connected that on skinny part of the number 2 petcock (PRI, RES, ON) The vacuum like went in the back right? Is there supposed to be another vacuum line that connects somewhere else? Maybe right above where part # 46? And if so, where do i connect it on the petcock?
Also, part #5 was the one that was missing on one of the carbs, but i replaced it with a simiular washer.
Thanks
Timothy
There is only one vacuum line from the left carb to the fuel switch. It sounds like you have it right.
That port on the other carb is not drilled out, so it doesn't go anywhere. They use the same casting body for both, and only open the appropriate ports.
The #5 washer shouldn't be super critical, but I'd get the right one. Carbs are finicky things at the best of times, no sense making some wierd problem.
Okay well I guess i'm going to have to tear everything back down and start from the beginning. That is unless you guys have something else to add... Kerry, Kevin...anything?
Also, this time when I clean my carbs could I just remove all the small stuff and then soak the entire thing in diesel fuel? Or do I have to buy that $10 a gallon carb cleaner?
-Timothy
Forgot to add that I have to have my choke out all the way still while running the bike. Idles at about 1500 RPMs with it all the way out.
Okay well I guess i'm going to have to tear everything back down and start from the beginning. That is unless you guys have something else to add... Kerry, Kevin...anything?
Also, this time when I clean my carbs could I just remove all the small stuff and then soak the entire thing in diesel fuel? Or do I have to buy that $10 a gallon carb cleaner?
-Timothy
Quote from: KevinC
That port on the other carb is not drilled out, so it doesn't go anywhere. They use the same casting body for both, and only open the appropriate ports.
So could it be that the vacuum line is connected to that port?? So try switching the vacuum line to the other carb? Just a guess....
Do you actually have an open vacuum port on the one carb? You said you only had one cap...? If that is true, , make sure those little o-rings are under the caps, plug up the open vacuum port on the top of the carb, and try it.
kindasorta off topic, but the diaphram in my right carb (from the back) has about a 1 inch tear in it. The bike runs fine except i get alittle hesitation at about 6.5k to 8k (its alot like vid381 was describing, only not as bad). Would the hole be causing that?
When i lift up the slides inside the carbs the left one slowly comes down, while the right one will shoot down as soon as i take my finger away.
I ordered 2 new ones anyway (since it has a freakin hole in it). Just wondering if this was the cause of my problems, or if it was the UNI filter causing it to be lean.
No, I've got both vacuum ports, not sure about both o-rings. It was the little knob that the vacuum line, the one that goes to the fuel switch, well i have one on the other carb as well, the right one. I thought that it was supposed to be used, but you, or maybe Kerry said that it isn't even drilled. As for the drilling of the other thing i was talking about:
http://electrovw.tripod.com/welcome/id17.html
JeffD has a website that says when you rejet your carbs you have to drill a hole. I thought that hole was for the air fuel mixture. I wanted to know if i needed to drill it out and fix something inside of it.
Quote from: Kerry
2) If the bike runs poorly even on the PRI setting (when you crank the throttle nothing happens), then I'd say you have a fuel MIXTURE problem. This doesn't rule out fuel flow problems, of course - you could have both.
Just thought that the fuel mixture was in reference to JeffD's webpage on this little hole you drill inorder to get to a screw that you turn three times.
I still need to know about soaking my carbs...will that hurt the gaskets at all?
Thnaks,
-Timothy
I don't think soaking tha assembled carbs in anything is that great of an idea. The diaphrams and a bunch of other plastic and rubber parts could be damaged. Plus I don't think it is a very effective way of cleaning out carbs. There are too many tiny passages
Carb cleaner and an air hose are what I use.
If you haven't taken the US caps off the idle mixture screws, and taken the needles out and blown out the passage ways, you haven't cleaned your carbs.
Dont just submerse the carb. If i you dip your dirty ass in some water, does it make you clean? NO. It may get the surface dirt off, but you need to scrub yourself. Now get cleaning... and do it properly!!!! NOW!!!
Im just being a prick, Im sorry :cheers:
Hey Timothy! Sorry, I got kinda busy after work.
When I mentioned FUEL MIXTURE I was talking about the whole process accomplished by the carburetors - the mixing of air and fuel in the correct proportions. You DO need to have good fuel flow to the carbs for this to happen, but I think of that as separate from the MIXTURE process itself.
The MIXTURE process is pretty complicated, and involves jets, needles, adjustment screws, the choke, the slides - you name it.
* Part #55 does not connect to anything. On both of my bikes it was draped over the airbox and held in place by a bendable clip at one of the air filter mounting screws.
* Part #23 is the "screw" that you will have read about - the one that's so many "turns out". As Kevin mentioned, on US models there is a brass plug (part #24) over this screw on each carb. It has a small hole in the center. You need to CAREFULLY drill this out when you change jets, so you can get access to the screws for fine adjustments. For a picture, look in the upper left corner of the first picture on my Float Height Check (http://www.bbburma.net/FloatHeight.htm) page. The brass plug is in between the two Phillips-head screws on the angle-iron rail. I'll leave the details on the right number of turns to those who know - I still HAVE all of my brass plugs because I've never rejetted. (My bikes are all stock as far as the engine is concerned.)
* OK, now for the vaccum topic. Your vacuum line (part #53) should be attached where it shows in the BikBandit diagram, on the left carb. The vacuum caps Kevin was talking about are part #14 in the diagrams, and the O-rings he mentioned are part #26, right under the large black plastic "carb top" (part #2) when you take it off. If you're missing any of these caps or O-rings, you WILL experience weird stuff. By the way, nobody has mentioned synchronizing your carbs yet. When you get around to doing that, these are the caps you need to pull off so you can hook up the carb synchronization tool.
* Carb cleaner. I just bought a spray can of the stuff for ... $3? ... attached the "straw", and dribbled some into a small CLEAN plastic applesauce cup which I tilted up at an angle. I submerged parts like 19, 30, 31, and 32 for ten minutes or so, and then blew them out really well. You can clean the float bowls, slides, and other large parts with Q-tips soaked in the carb cleaner - just enough to get the brown "gum" off. (It sounds like you've already done this.)
Well, this is getting long, so I'll quit for now. But I'll be back tomorrow to check on you!
EDIT: Changed link from sisna.com to bbburma.net
There is no good way to clean carbs other than taking them apart, washing them thoroughly, and blowing all the passages with compressed air. If you had rust in your tank, chances are something is plugged up somewhere.
You need to remove all the jets and make sure they are clear. They are soft brass. so you have to be very careful. The float needles and seats should be inspected. If there is a ring around the needle where it seats, it should be replaced.
You can get the plastic needle jet retainer out by forcefully whacking the inverted caarb body against a piece of wood.
The diaphrams should be carefully inspected against a bright light for pinholes or small tears.
The idle mixture screws should be removed, and that area washed out and blown out with compressed air.
Quote from: ViD381I still don't know how to synchronize the carbs once I attach the tool. (Self synchronizing?)
There is a screw between the carbs that you fine-tune with a screwdriver while you compare the two fluid levels on the synchronization tool. I believe it's part #50 in the BikeBandit diagram.
okay I took of my gas tank and my carbs. Took all of about 45 minutes. Little did i know that if you turn your tank upside down, gas will leak out from the opening where you fill it. So the gas got all over the paint, and now that's got to be replaced too. And since I started to panic, I turned the tank in the other direction only to get more gas all over the place. I could have been smart and drained the gas into something and reused it, but instead i just dumped it into my oil drain pan.
I'm about ready to quit.
I won't, but i want to. Think i'll get some lunch and take a break.
Timothy
so my petcock has been leaking, what's the best way to fix that?
I think it was coming from the screws, but it could also have been coming from the gasket.
Can I use thread lock on it?
Leaking... well petcock leak will leave a puddle everywhere... I believe like kevin has said... you have a vaccum line leak. That will keep the floats from filling up, will make one carb crap out etc etc... Find your vacuum leaks and fix them. However on cleaning carbs... well dont get obsessive there, the bike spits and spews carbon all over the place and the intake lets in fine dust etc... even a set of carbs off a nice running bike do have some crud in them... so clean is great but if you cleaned it before dont do it again... wont make a diff. Also I drop fully assembles carbs into a trough of gas with yamaha carb cleaner. Dont do with anyother one like chem tool cos that will eat rubber. Yamaha one is basically ammonia based stuff that I dip and lift them a few times, let it sit, and repeat. Clean all kawi/honda and 4 cyl keihein carbs that way only. Vacuum leak from somewhere making line vacuum flutter and letting floats not fill up... That's your problem.
Cool.
Srinath.
Courage, Timothy! You'll get there yet.
You're right about draining as much as you can out of the tank. A 2.5 gallon gas can is pretty handy to have around, as well as an extra length of fuel hose. In the past I have used some surgical tubing that I had lying around. It expands when exposed to gas for very long, so don't count on it holding a tight seal when its full of gas for 10 minutes or more.
If your tank has the original paint, you shouldn't need to worry about it. I haven't found that gasoline affects the paint on my tank. Just don't use something scratchy when you clean it off!
About the leak - it's coming from the petcock attached to the fuel tank, right? Your best solution might be a new gasket, but in the meantime you could try some kind of fuel-resistant gasket maker / sealer. I would hesitate to use anything too permanent, though.
Okay I started cleaning everything. There is one screw that i can't seem to budge. It's right behing the tall brass screw where the floats are located. I believe that it's part #33 on the bikebandit page.
http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/showschematic.asp?dept_id=137676
Should I try to get this screw loose? I don't want to strip anything.
Thanks
Timothy
I also noticed that the hole in the floats is really small. Just a little bigger than a pin hole. Is it supposed to be larger? (not a hole on the floats, but the one that lets gas into the chamber)
Part #33 is not a screw at all. It consists of two main pieces: the small, rubber-tipped float needle and the "well" that it dips into (when the carb is upside-down on your work surface). Both of these parts are removed with your fingers. Part #34 is the O-ring that keeps the "well" in place.
Are you perhaps talking about part #31? That's the main jet, and it's one of the most substantial metal parts in the carb. It has a hefty slot for a flat-tipped screwdriver. This really should be removed so you can make sure it's clean.
If part #31 is NOT what you're talking about, please clarify.
I think what i'm talking about is the pilot jet. Part # 23 &24
part #4 on JeffD's website
I saw that there's a very small screwdriver screw in there. Didn't know if i should tamper with it.
I just cleaned the left side of my carb, and it's CLEAN. (Except part #23 &24)
I didn't see any holes or tears in the diaphragm either.
I'm going to start on the right side now. I'll let you know if anything else comes up.
Thanks,
Timothy
Part #4 on Jeff's picture IS the pilot jet, but it's part #19 on the BikeBandit diagram.
Parts #23 and #24 on the BikeBandit diagram come out of the hole marked #1 on Jeff's picture. One of them is the brass "no tamper" plug that some folks drill out, and the other is the screw that is set to X "turns out".
You MAY have problems with that one pilot jet. Cross your fingers that it's not dirty....
BTW - You may want to edit your last post and remove the double-slash in the URL, after tripod.com. (Tip: Always Preview your posts and try out the links before you click Submit.)
Well, I can't for the life of me unscrew the pilot jet. I don't want to strip anything, but I want to make sure that it's not dirty. It probably is because I can't unscrew it. What do you recommend I do?
I tried the like, and I worked for me, but since you were having trouble with it, I just removed the link.
Awaiting your orders,
Timothy
Hmmmm. All I can think of is to soak the screw in Liquid Wrench or some other penetrating oil for a while.
Anybody out there have a better idea?
Get this.
Okay for no reason at all I decided to blow on my fuel lines. They're still attatched to the fuel switch. Well, On and reserve hardly move any air. It's inbetween the two of them when you get air flow, but one to the ON & RES lines. There doens't seem to be any air going to the out line, or the one that would connect to the carbs. When on Pri, the air will go to the out gas line, regardless of if I blow on the ON or RES line. That could be the problem right there. I'm going to take it appart when I come back home from class tonight.
I noticed that there is a gasket for the fuel switch. Looks like it's paper. Well, can this be reused, or will I have to use a gasket sealer?
Thanks,
Timothy
That sounds like just what you should expect from the vacuum-actuated ON and RES settings. If you can blow air through on those settings with no resistance, then surely fuel could flow from the tank with no resistance as well.
The idea is to PREVENT fuel from flowing on the ON and RES settings when the engine is not running (and is therefore not sucking on the vacuum hose), and to ALLOW fuel to flow on the gravity-fed PRI setting even when the engine is not running.
Sounds right to me.