OK I don't need to go on about how much I think the standard dials suck - so here is what I did about it!TOOLS REQUIRED
- 10mm & 12mm socket + driver
- 10mm & 12mm spanners
- Long Flat Blade Screwdriver
- Multi-Grip & Needlenose Pliers
- Soldering Equipment
- Cable Ties and Side Cutters
- Arc, MIG or TIG Welder
- Wire Brush
- Medium-grade Sandpaper
- Matt Black Paint
- A bunch of wet rags
- A couple of hours + beer & smokes
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/teknoblast/Koso%20RX-2N/SDC11018.jpg)
Seat off, tank off, battery removed - then unbolt this diaphragm and head to the wiring underneath...
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/teknoblast/Koso%20RX-2N/SDC11021.jpg)
Unclip the two white multi-pin connectors and the two bullet connectors
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/teknoblast/Koso%20RX-2N/SDC11025.jpg)
Remove the two cluster retaining bolts and the speedo drive cable then throw the old analogue clock back to the 80's! - the speedo drive cable was totally removed and I forced a rubber bung into the speedo drive hole in the axle
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/teknoblast/Koso%20RX-2N/SDC11026.jpg)
Rub the cowling support frame back to bare metal in the areas shown...
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/teknoblast/Koso%20RX-2N/SDC11027.jpg)
Wet some rags and cover all of the cowling, visor, anything that could be damaged by welding spatter and get zapping!
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/teknoblast/Koso%20RX-2N/SDC11028.jpg)
Clean up the welds and a couple of coats of Matt Black shilack
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/teknoblast/Koso%20RX-2N/SDC11031.jpg)
Cut the wiring off the old cluster - the 3 wire plug is not required (leave sufficient length just in case you want to replace the original cluster)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/teknoblast/Koso%20RX-2N/SDC11034.jpg)
Now wire up as follows (only for 2004 model)
| ITEM | GS500 | Koso |
| Oil Warning | Green/Yellow | Orange |
| Neutral | Blue/Black | Blue |
| Hi-Beam | Yellow | Yellow |
| Tach Signal | Black/Red | Brown (plug) |
| Ignition (+12) | Orange | Brown |
| Earth | Black/White | Black |
Tap the Black wire from the LHF indicator into the KOSO - Gray wire
Tap the Green wire from the RHF indicator into the KOSO - White wire
Trace the wiring from your ignition barrel back to a green connector - splice the Red power wire from the KOSO into the thick red wire (it is fused)
Your should end up with something like this
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/teknoblast/Koso%20RX-2N/SDC11035.jpg)
Now there is absolutely NOWHERE on the front suspension to mount the speedo pickup - trust me I scratched my head and kicked spanners around for a good 15 minutes before I came up with a solution... the REAR WHEEL! A single bracket does not place the pickup close enough to the brake rotor bolts, but they supply 2 brackets and doubling them up as shown gets the job done. Even better, it is virtually invisible unless you are upside down under the back of the bike!
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/teknoblast/Koso%20RX-2N/SDC11041.jpg)
Tidy up your wiring, cable ties aplenty - put the petrol tank, bolt in the battery and slip the seat back on then start setting up the configuration!
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/teknoblast/Koso%20RX-2N/SDC11042.jpg)
Yeah baby!(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/teknoblast/Koso%20RX-2N/SDC11044.jpg)
I like the Koso as well, but I would be taking a grinder to those tabs on the top clamp.
Wow that looks good. :thumb:
I've got a top clamp sitting here I'll strip for you just to get those damn tabs out of the picture.
Looks sweet! I love a big single.
Awsome tutorial :thumb: It could be added to the wiki page.
Do you have more side view pics?
Awesome I've wanted to do this forever! Can't see the pics at work though, I'll have to check them out later.
I was wondering what to do with the top clamp tabs - the paint is very rough from the previous owner having a huge bunch of keys scratching around there so I might tidy it up and repaint.
The Koso unit is a lot smaller than I thought (the dial is the same size as one standard GS dial) but its very clear and easy to read - even though its mounted as far forward as I could get it, its still really easy to read. Riding at night it is just awesome and its very clear during the day - but I found out today that without the original gauges in place you can now see right down into the back to the nosecone and front fairing so I will have to knock up a cover to seal it all up.
The only other thing to do is setup the temp sensors. The kit is supplied with 2 water temp sensors which for a GS are useless, but there are additional temp sensors available so i will try to setup one under a spark plug for engine temp and one in the oil cooler inlet for oil temp.
Going to play around with the 0-100kph and 400m timer this afternoon :icon_twisted:
Looks nice, if it's not a rude question, how many sheckles are they worth. One of those would look nice on my Z.
Quote from: bubba zanetti on February 16, 2011, 02:41:19 PM
Looks nice, if it's not a rude question, how many sheckles are they worth. One of those would look nice on my Z.
Just under $400 delivered Bubba
Hey this setup is for sale! $120 cheaper than new + mounting bracket ready made, SM carbon backing plate and all the wiring ready to plug-in!
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=58999.0 (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=58999.0)
BUMPLINK!