Ok so I just got my 95 GS road legal, tagged, insured etc. It's a 95 with full V&H, lunch filter and I rejetted it to a 145 main and 2 turns out. Also added an inline fuel filter before the carb, is it restrictive you think? Every time I let off the throttle it pops all over the place and it looks like it's running really lean. Also the bike will bog and die around 70-75 mph at about half throttle. It runs the best with the petcock on prime. Should I up my main jet to a 150? Any suggestions are GREATLY appreciated as it's about to be spring time. :bowdown: :thumb: :D
I'm thinking my best bet is to replace all the hoses with maybe 5/16s line, check float height, and possibly replace petcock. Please help!
And that fuel filter not doing anything god to. If your tank is clean, and have the original fuel filter inside, you not really need another. Second filter (especially the cheap filters) blocking the fuel delivery to the motor.
And try the 3 turns out on mixture screws to run little bit reacher
I just followed this procedure with my bike yesterday after rejetting and it worked awesome:
From the Wiki:
Close both screws taking note of what the current setting are. Open them at 1 tunr out.
Warm up engine and turn the choke off.
Lower the idle to below 1000rpm
Open the air screw up to the point where the engine revs don't increase anymore. Then open 1/4 of a turn more.
Lower the idle again to below 1000 rpm
Blip the throttle to 1/4. If the rpms dip before rising, you are too rich. If the rpms hang up and come back slow to idle, you're lean.
Set the idle back to normal, i.e. 1200 rpms.
Yes on the 150, yes to getting the fuel filter outta there, and no you dont have goats. Unless your bike feels awfully unbalanced at any speed. Then open the left engine case and check.
Cool.
Buddha.
Thanks guys. I will report back. The reason why I had the filter in there is because there is noticeable rust flakes in my tank. Even after rinsing it out. Should the in tank screen be enough to filter that?
Well ... all I can say is ... hell no.
Rust gotta come out else its gonna clog up your carb, may be not today, not tommorow, but clog is its middle name.
Cool.
Buddha.
Is there a less restrictive filter I can use? or perhaps place one or two on lines directly out of the tank so gravity will help the gas get through them?
On another note, are you still doing tanks Buddha?
Have you thought about cleaning the tank out yourself? It's really not that hard. Little time consuming, but so are clogged carbs.......
I cleaned it out before just with water but I could certainly try again. I don't think it's all that bad in there from what I can tell. Definitely a little flaking though. What would you recommend?
Ugh..."with just water".
Fill and drain the tank with fuel a few times if you haven't yet. Get yourself a POR-15 kit or have Buddha do a tank seal job for you.
Replace the tank filters while you have the petcock out.
lol I didn't think water was going to get rid of the rust I just did it quickly to remove floating flakes. I'm going to look into POR-15. What is Buddha cost?
Buddha was busting his a$$ doing it for $125, making a royal mess @ his house and what not. Then buddha quit doing it in 2010. I could do it, however I wont try to till you get north of 80 degrees daytime temp, now for charlotte NC, that puts it close to april, which is about the time buddha has more time cos the wife and kiddo going to India. Now, humidity is good for POR 15 generally, however when coating you dont want it to be cold and damp. Hot and humid is OK, hot and dry is OK.
You can do it yourself, the hard part is all the prep and the general treatment before you do it. I have a few variations on the standard POR15 instructions. I can post it here ... or there is a post where I posted a few years ago. Search for it.
If you have a vent tube installed on the top side and you can turn it into a vent with a "freeflo" 1 way check valve, it could also eliminate your venting problems for good. Of course that involves welding and then you have to paint it. I dunno, too many choices.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: theboy3443 on February 23, 2011, 06:29:54 AM
lol I didn't think water was going to get rid of the rust I just did it quickly to remove floating flakes. I'm going to look into POR-15. What is Buddha cost?
Rinsing/flushing with water is fine if you're in the middle of doing a seal kit- Plain water- especially this time of year will not come dry ( moving air is best..). So you may get some big flakes out but you're adding water to the tank to make more problems... flushing it out with fuel ( a few times ) will hopefully get the water out.
POR-15:
I basically just double the cleaning ,and etch times as well as the drying time (between etch/prep and the sealer). It has to be HAS to be dry for the sealer to work.
Air moving through it is what does most of the drying...just heat isn't enough.
$125 including a kit... You were working cheap.
Yea, tell me about it. Even @ 125 people were balking. However shipping a bloody tank back and forth isn't cheap, so I understand.
Anyway these are all things I call "man that's a good idea but ... "
On a side note Idiot friend AKA Idiot #1 acid etched his vulcan tank and rinsed out and put motor oil to keep it from rusting yesterday. If the fool didn't shower in muriatic acid while wearing a leather jacket, I dunno what else ... 10 mins after he starts doing that, he goes, man my hand is getting very itchy, whassup with that. Well ... D-uh. Its called Acid for a reason you think.
Anyway I cure the tanks I coat in a car parked in the sun with the windows up. You cant drive it without smelling like a chemical factory for weeks ... but hey the temperature totally works.
Cool.
Buddha.
Muriatic acid in the tank? Well, I suppose it would work fast. I use it to remove galvanization from pipes prior to welding. Works great on that; need to avoid the fumes though.
I found a better method is filling the tank with Vinegar and letting it sit for a few days. It takes longer but appears to do every bit as good of a job, without needing Hazmat procedures to dispose or risk destroying the paint. Added bonus: vinegar is cheap by the gallon. Fill tank with nuts and bolts and shake shake shake. Flush with water, dry, refill with gasoline.
I did this to address tank rust on a couple of vintage mopeds, where destroying the OEM paint was not an option and the tank is not removable. Tank had a very serious rust issue. For your interest:
(http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB3/download/file.php?id=38)
Muriatic acid will eat rust to clean steel in under 5 mins flat. It eats steel very very very slowly, so its ideal, however it is seriously hazardous, you can easily asphixiate if you are not in the open, and if it gets on the floor it will foam and let off so much chlorine it can easily concentrate and cause serious harm. However if you do it right, the acid will lose all its potency just as your rust all disappears, then you just rince with water 1-2 times, then put a bit of baking soda or lye in it and shake it out. Then dry (easier said than done on a gs tank without a vent hole) and get with the coating process.
I have several twists on this for POR15. After muriatic acid, you put the POR15 prep acid. That will leave a lot of grey dust. Get it all nice and coated and after 2-3 hours of it drying, you can slosh and rinse with water, then dry it. Its gotta be bone dry, then you can put the POR15 in it. Again the key is to use just enough that it coats every surface with 1 thin uniform layer and its all done.
Cool.
Buddha.
Ok so I pulled out the fuel filter and put on new fuel lines, 5/16 instead of 1/4 that were on there. Runs pretty well but still pops alot after I let off the throttle with the Vance and Hines full exhaust. Is this indicative of a lean condition or does it just pop because of less restriction?
I was thinking the next step would be to close the air screws a turn or so and then if necessary, throw in the 150 mains.
Wait a sec, put the symptoms in more detail and your setup too. Popping on shut throttle isn't any indication of lean or rich. If you close the throttle @ say 8K rpm, guess what, you're running 8K rpm but feeding it gas via the air screw. Remember jetting depends on throttle position, not rpm. You crank WFO @ 2K, you're feeding it gas via main jets, needle and pilot and air screw, all of those ... OK in a cv carb its not that instantaneous, cos the diaphragm has to lift, but you're going to slowly start using the needles and the mains ... but by the time you get to 4-5K rpm you're definetly on the mains.
However shutting the throttle instantly cuts off fuel from anywhere but the air screw, and the slide drops a fraction of a second later. Definetly can pop even if jetted perfect.
Cool.
Buddha.
Ok, I'll have to pull the plugs and check it out. I'm pretty sure my bowl emptying issue on the highway has been resolved by removing the fuel filter and putting new lines on because I did a 25 mile ride yesterday in the ON position instead of prime. Rode highway at 55-80 and no problems as well as back roads. My carb setup is 145 mains, stock pilots, 2 washers, 2 turns out. Mods on the bike are K&N and full V&H exhaust. Thanks Buddha, I was worried about the popping after I close the throttle being a lean issue because it does it at all speeds. It actually pops like crazy every time I let off the gas, no matter the RPM. I was going to move up to the 150 mains but if it's jetted ok now I will leave it. Just ordered new tires, will post pics of my bike soon, can't wait for some more warm days! Let me know what your thoughts are..
-Mike
Quote from: theboy3443 on February 28, 2011, 11:10:21 AM
Ok, I'll have to pull the plugs and check it out. I'm pretty sure my bowl emptying issue on the highway has been resolved by removing the fuel filter and putting new lines on because I did a 25 mile ride yesterday in the ON position instead of prime. Rode highway at 55-80 and no problems as well as back roads. My carb setup is 145 mains, stock pilots, 2 washers, 2 turns out. Mods on the bike are K&N and full V&H exhaust. Thanks Buddha, I was worried about the popping after I close the throttle being a lean issue because it does it at all speeds. It actually pops like crazy every time I let off the gas, no matter the RPM. I was going to move up to the 150 mains but if it's jetted ok now I will leave it. Just ordered new tires, will post pics of my bike soon, can't wait for some more warm days! Let me know what your thoughts are..
-Mike
You do need to put 150's in it, the other thing is - check floats and make sure they are right. K&N and pipe definetly need 150.
Cool.
Buddha.
Will do. Thanks