My mostly reliable gs500e (94) decided a few days ago not to start, but after a jump from a friends car it was fine. I figured it was just struggling due to cold weather, but even after a short ride keeping it over 5k rpm, it didnt start when i turned it off.
A new battery was bought and installed and it runs fine now, BUT, after checking with a mulitmeter and using the haynes manual, im thinking the 5 MONTH OLD ALTERNATOR STATOR has failed. Its outputting 86v, 29v, 29v on the three wires, meaning the regulator is ok, but the alternator is toast, right? :icon_confused:
Im confused, the gs has done about a thousand miles since that new alternator, how could it fail this soon?
Is there somthing ive overlooked?
Any advice? I really dont want to -and cant really afford to- replace the stator AGAIN.
Im keeping the battery out of the bike and on a charger when im not using it, just in case..
These are the numbers i got when testing:
Battery voltage:
Bike OFF: 12.66v
Bike ON - IDLE: 12.12v
Bike ON -5k rpm*: 12.76
(*With full bema on as suggested by haynes manual)
No load output test (direct from 5 month old alternator):
Bike ON - 5k rpm:
1> 86v ac
2> 29v ac
3> 29v ac
Continuity check (Bike off) for alternator: (Ohms)
to each other / to earth
1>....0../...0
2>...0../...0
3>...1.6../..0
Any advice would be great.. Thanks
Is it still under warranty?
Yep its shagged.....still got the receipt?
You could have goats ... ggggggggggoooooooooooooaaaaaaaaaaaaaaatttttttttttttttttttssssssssssssssssssssss ...
Mine went almost the same way. But in your case I'd call it error @ reinstall. Open it up and look carefully for open wires and a short to earth. In my case it was ignoring the starter clutch's hard banging noise that I ignored for a year.
Cool.
Buddha.
I am interested in some more info on this topic.
You wanted more info? Ok, hows this for weirdness..
After the main incident, a few days later the alternator randomly started charging again. Its worked perfect since. Until now..
I have a NEW stator (Ordered it to replace the dodgy one, ended up never fitting it since the one fitted started working again), sitting upstairs.
New problem occurred yesterday:
Went out on a spin - only 50miles-, and on the way back suzi seemed to have less power, in the last couple of miles every time i put indicators on she almost died. Got home and she died. Wouldnt start - got the lovely "click click cliiiiiick" from the starter relay or whatever it is.
So, charged the battery overnight, installed and this is the result:
Voltage:
Bike OFF: 12.52v
Bike ON: 12.32v
Bike at IDLE: 11.78v
Bike at 5000rpm+: 11-12v
Tried to check the output of the stator directly from the 3 wires, but with the multimeter set to 200AC, i got 0.0v on all combinations of the 3 wires at 5krpm. :cookoo:
The bike is due for an oil change, and i do have the new stator, so should i just replace the damn thing?
If yes, would the alternator stator GASKET be ok to leave in, as it was replaced last time - less than 3k miles ago.
(Also i quite sure the regulator/rectifier is ok, and no bulb's or fuses have blown??)
Any ideas? Part of me just wants to set the damn girl on fire... :icon_sad:
Sounds like the stator is bad.Change it.I would check and change the regulator as needed.Someone posted a cheap way to upgrade the regulator to a newer more efficient one. If the gaskets are in good condition,I would run them.
I would charge the battery back up, then start the bike and measure the stator output one more time just to see. It sounds like there is an intermittent short in the windings.(maybe after it gets hot?) It would explain the symptoms, at least. Good luck with your bike!
Ok, stator was replaced.
The problem? The wires had been worn through by the rotor.
Obviously i hadn't secured it well enough last time... My bad.
Now it charges at:
IDLE: 12.7
3k rpm: 13.21
5k + rpm: 13.1
This seem ok? I think its strange how it charges more below 5k than above...
Sounds like a failing regulator.
@5000 rpm 13.5-15.5 volts
oh for **** sake.. ill check that tomorrow.. Hope its ok, cant really afford to replace the regulator..
Lets not start panicking and jumping to conclusions, yeah the reg/rect might be screwed but at the same time it might not be.
Despite what the manual says 13.1v across the battery is a just about acceptable figure IF the battery is discharged and the electrical system is under load IE: main beam on. At this stage I wouldn't worry about it unless the battery is obviously failing to charge and start the bike from cold, so far you haven't said anything to indicate this is the case.
It would also pay to check the various ground and battery connections making sure they are clean and tight, ideally the battery should be load tested by a shop if only to rule it out.
However the first thing I would be asking myself is......how do I know the meter is accurate?? :dunno_black:
Quote from: sledge on July 24, 2011, 02:04:17 PM
Lets not start panicking and jumping to conclusions, yeah the reg/rect might be screwed but at the same time it might not be.
Despite what the manual says 13.1v across the battery is a just about acceptable figure IF the battery is discharged and the electrical system is under load IE: main beam on. At this stage I wouldn't worry about it unless the battery is obviously failing to charge and start the bike from cold, so far you haven't said anything to indicate this is the case.
It would also pay to check the various ground and battery connections making sure they are clean and tight, ideally the battery should be load tested by a shop if only to rule it out.
However the first thing I would be asking myself is......how do I know the meter is accurate?? :dunno_black:
All valid points.I would think that the service manual would allow for things like the lights being on since they can't be shut off.However,that doesn't cover different or higher wattage bulbs and any add on accessories that may be pulling power.If there are add ons,maybe disconnect them and retry the voltage test.
I'm not very knowledgeable about electronics, but wouldn't a failing regulator be over charging the battery at 5000 rpm?
Quote from: ben2go on July 24, 2011, 07:45:15 PM
I would think that the service manual would allow for things like the lights being on since they can't be shut off.
Cant be shut off?
You are forgetting something.........they can in non USA markets.
Quote from: sledge on July 25, 2011, 01:05:27 AM
Quote from: ben2go on July 24, 2011, 07:45:15 PM
I would think that the service manual would allow for things like the lights being on since they can't be shut off.
Cant be shut off?
You are forgetting something.........they can in non USA markets.
Sorry,I don't follow the non US markets.So outside the US,the head and tail lights can be switched off while riding?
Dunno about other gs500's, but im in the UK and my head&tail lights are always on. I cant turn them off.
OK, i spent 4 hours today checking and replacing connectors, and figuring out what the hell the previous owner did to the wiring - the fuse box was empty, no fuse, and an inline fuse had been (badly) connected in its place - and replacing it with a normal blade fuse. I hate wiring..
Still, new results (I changed the connectors that go from stator to original wiring loom to new "bullet connectors"):
IDLE: 12.5v [+/- .2v]
3k rpm: 13.22v [+/- .2v]
5k rpm*: 13.5 [+/- .2v]
Better results than yesterday, but still... 13.5v at 5k rpm is the minimum. Is it enough to keep the battery charged though? It is safe?
*was checked with main beam ON
Oh, and the multimeter i use is quite new, and is the most accurate i have.
How good is your battery. what is its voltage with the key turned on but bike not running. These voltages are all what I'd call delta's from that. Then if it is ~11 or so these look great, of course if the batt is @ 13 with the key on, then its bad.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: vinny on July 25, 2011, 12:20:56 PM
Dunno about other gs500's, but im in the UK and my head&tail lights are always on. I cant turn them off.
OK, i spent 4 hours today checking and replacing connectors, and figuring out what the hell the previous owner did to the wiring - the fuse box was empty, no fuse, and an inline fuse had been (badly) connected in its place - and replacing it with a normal blade fuse. I hate wiring..
Still, new results (I changed the connectors that go from stator to original wiring loom to new "bullet connectors"):
IDLE: 12.5v [+/- .2v]
3k rpm: 13.22v [+/- .2v]
5k rpm*: 13.5 [+/- .2v]
Better results than yesterday, but still... 13.5v at 5k rpm is the minimum. Is it enough to keep the battery charged though? It is safe?
*was checked with main beam ON
Oh, and the multimeter i use is quite new, and is the most accurate i have.
Battery was new a couple of months ago. It was taken off the bike and charged overnight a few days ago. The water in it is at the right level too.
Battery voltage Checked this morning:
Key on, bike NOT running: 12.41v [+/- .01v]
You got about 3/4 volt @ 3K and 1v @ 5K incremental voltage.
I'd say you may be getting a clow death alternator, see the stator in a alternator is not electronic, its electric, it dies slowly by internal eddies that slowly add up and then over whelm it. Its sorta like an exponential decay situation.
You probab;y should make sure that the stator is getting burnt ... darker color = bad. Then replace it.
Cool.
Buddha.
Hm, now you mention it.. one of the vanes/poles of the stator did look quite dark. (It was replaced a few days ago - these readings are from the new one)