This season I noticed that my clutch was slipping and I want to replace the plates in the off season. I was looking at a parts list and they listed plates and springs. What are springs and do I need to replace them with the plates? Also if anyone could give me some tips or directions on doing the procedure that would be great I have a lot of trouble following the manual.
Also the two sets of plates I was looking at were a pro friction by KG clutch factory for 42.46 and the kevlar series friction disc set by KG clutch factory for 67.96 does it matter which one i buy
Usually the plates go before the springs on most bikes. So just replace the friction plates at this time (not the metal ones). Also look at Barnett. They used to be $7 a plate (friction), but that was some years ago. For $42 the pro friction by KG sounds good, but that is not a name I'm familiar with. That doesn't neccessarily mean they're bad, it's just that I haven't heard of them.
Before you do any of this, have you adjusted your clutch cable?
For what its worth, stick with the OEM plates. Barrnets suck IMHO, great grip to start but they will wear much faster and bite you in the ass. I've raced for going on 17years and though you'll find a handfull of racers swearing by barrnet, a greater number have had early wear problems. Get the HD springs and if thats too much clutch pull for you use 2 or 3 of the HD springs and the rest stock. Bead blast the metal plates, Beadblast, not, I repeat not sandblast.
P.S. alot of drag racers swear by barrnet's but they change plates more often then most change their shorts.
Bob :cheers:
I put a Barnett clutch in my racebike that is for a SV650.
It was complete with shorter/stiffer springs, friction and metal plates.
It works great. My other race motor has new stock plates and springs.
It works great too. Time will tell how they wear.
Bead blasting the metal plates is a great idea. Unless they get warped they can be reused without any problems. Even the springs are reuseable as far as I'm concerned.
I would just replace the friction plates with stock parts in this case.
go with the bead blasting, as far as the springs go, try going with just the plates first. (can always put in springs down the road)
Quote from: PuunjobAlso if anyone could give me some tips or directions on doing the procedure that would be great I have a lot of trouble following the manual.
What exatcly are you having problems with? Take the ignition rotor cover off, the ignition rotor, the pick-up plate, undo the bolts on the engine cover and remove the cover and gasket. Undo the six spring retaining bolts and change out your friction plates. Now I don't have the manual in front of me, but this seems to be the prodedure. Anybody feel free to correct me if I am wrong. Or add anything.