Poll
Question:
what does this meAN?
Option 1: SLIPPING
votes: 0
Option 2: CABLE
votes: 0
SO IM RIDING TODAY AND IM SLOWING DOWN TO DOWNSHIFT AND PUT A BIT MORE POWER ON THE FOOT LEVER THEN USUAL AND THE BIKE DOWNSHIFTED ON ITS OWN WITHOUT COMPRESSING THE CLUTCH LEVER :dunno_black:SO I TOOK OFF FROM THE STOP AND THOUGHT LET ME SEE WHAT HAPPENS IF I DO THE SAME GOING UP GEARS AND IT DID THE SAME THING ....SWITCHED WITHOUT THE CLUTCH LEVER....MIND YOU THIS IS AT NORMAL RPM NOT HIGH AT ALL.....SSSSSSSOOOOOOOOO...MY QUESTION IS WOULD THIS HAVE SOMETHING TO DO WITH CLUTCH CABLE ADJUSTMENT OR THE ACTUAL CLUTCH FAILING???????...THE CLUTCH HAS BEEN SLIPPING LATELY AND I KNOW THERE COULD BE SEVERAL REASONS FOR IT BUT DOES THIS INFO POINT TO ANYTHING SPECIFIC...
Would point to clutch slip. However, a properly adjusted and working clutch will allow you to shift without using the clutch lever as well. Many people don't use the clutch to upshift. Ever.
Sounds like you're on a short road to a bent shift fork -- you should not be putting a lot of pressure on the lever.
If you're using the clutch, or executing a proper clutchless shift, it takes just a tiny amount of pressure to shift. Yes, it's completely possible to shift without the clutch, and when doing so correctly you place very little stress on the transmission. Performing the technique improperly will wear the dog teeth, drivetrain, and shift forks. Proper technique requires almost no pressure on the shift lever, and doesn't result in any jerk during the shift.
A misadjusted clutch cable will be obvious - no free-play in the clutch lever. A slipping clutch will be obvious -- you'll give the bike the beans in a high gear, and your revs will rise disproportionately with your speed.
BTW: Your caps-lock key is stuck. A new keyboard only costs $15. You should replace it if you want to participate in the internet.
DIDNT KNOW CAPS LOCK WAS A SIN>>>>>>But if it keeps the gs family happy so be it....guess ill be needing some clutch work soon
Quote from: nydad19 on April 27, 2011, 04:32:17 PM
DIDNT KNOW CAPS LOCK WAS A SIN>>>>>>But if it keeps the gs family happy so be it....guess ill be needing some clutch work soon
Yup Caps Lock is a sin. On the net it is considered YELLING! Plus, it makes it harder to read what it written.
And also, just cause the board has the ability to make a Poll in a post, doesn't mean every thread you start needs to have a poll with it. Specially not for such simple questions.
Michael
Thanks, we appreciate it. Generally, people are going to find all caps irritating no matter where you go.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/All_caps#Computing
I sometimes need to give it a good flick up to shift should I have it looked at? My bike needs an oil change so wonder if that will help anything but would hate to kill the transmission because I'm overlooking something mechanical. As far as my technique is concerned, I pull the clutch in fully before shifting and generally let it out slowly (unless I need to get out of the way)
So most people will up shift without pulling the clutch? I accidently done it a couple times when getting onto the x-way but thought it was bad for the GS.
No one said "most". I said "many", meaning that more than you would think upshift without the clutch. Search clutchless upshift.
Quote from: RSK70 on April 27, 2011, 06:22:43 PM
I sometimes need to give it a good flick up to shift should I have it looked at? My bike needs an oil change so wonder if that will help anything but would hate to kill the transmission because I'm overlooking something mechanical. As far as my technique is concerned, I pull the clutch in fully before shifting and generally let it out slowly (unless I need to get out of the way)
What kind of oil are you using now? What do you Intend to use?
The "what oil?" question is like asking "who is the most beautiful woman in the world". You'll get heaps of answers. So here's my brief run down, you do what you want...
Bike first had Motul 1000 in it. Put it in at 1,000km service and again at 6,000. I then switched to Motul 5100 and gear changes were noticeably smoother. I've used Motul 5100 for the 12,000, 18,000, 24,000 and 30,000 services - my local Suzuki dealer uses this as standard does does my private mechanic I Used to use. I am now using Motul 300v and a different mechanic. And the changes are even smoother still. I can now push the bike around, cold, with just the clutch pulled in (not possible with 5100 and a cold engine). I'll be sticking with Motul 300V - it costs more but just cause you have a cheap bike doesn't mean you should put cheap crud in it.
Michael
Quote from: mister on April 28, 2011, 01:19:44 AM
Quote from: RSK70 on April 27, 2011, 06:22:43 PM
I sometimes need to give it a good flick up to shift should I have it looked at? My bike needs an oil change so wonder if that will help anything but would hate to kill the transmission because I'm overlooking something mechanical. As far as my technique is concerned, I pull the clutch in fully before shifting and generally let it out slowly (unless I need to get out of the way)
What kind of oil are you using now? What do you Intend to use?
The "what oil?" question is like asking "who is the most beautiful woman in the world". You'll get heaps of answers. So here's my brief run down, you do what you want...
Bike first had Motul 1000 in it. Put it in at 1,000km service and again at 6,000. I then switched to Motul 5100 and gear changes were noticeably smoother. I've used Motul 5100 for the 12,000, 18,000, 24,000 and 30,000 services - my local Suzuki dealer uses this as standard does does my private mechanic I Used to use. I am now using Motul 300v and a different mechanic. And the changes are even smoother still. I can now push the bike around, cold, with just the clutch pulled in (not possible with 5100 and a cold engine). I'll be sticking with Motul 300V - it costs more but just cause you have a cheap bike doesn't mean you should put cheap crud in it.
Michael
Still 10w40 with the synthetic?
Quote from: Twism86 on April 28, 2011, 05:47:02 AM
Still 10w40 with the synthetic?
[/quote]
As opposed to 10-50 or 10-30?
(I run a high quality 10-40 synthetic.)
Quote from: Twism86 on April 28, 2011, 05:47:02 AM
Quote from: mister on April 28, 2011, 01:19:44 AM
Quote from: RSK70 on April 27, 2011, 06:22:43 PM
I sometimes need to give it a good flick up to shift should I have it looked at? My bike needs an oil change so wonder if that will help anything but would hate to kill the transmission because I'm overlooking something mechanical. As far as my technique is concerned, I pull the clutch in fully before shifting and generally let it out slowly (unless I need to get out of the way)
What kind of oil are you using now? What do you Intend to use?
The "what oil?" question is like asking "who is the most beautiful woman in the world". You'll get heaps of answers. So here's my brief run down, you do what you want...
Bike first had Motul 1000 in it. Put it in at 1,000km service and again at 6,000. I then switched to Motul 5100 and gear changes were noticeably smoother. I've used Motul 5100 for the 12,000, 18,000, 24,000 and 30,000 services - my local Suzuki dealer uses this as standard does does my private mechanic I Used to use. I am now using Motul 300v and a different mechanic. And the changes are even smoother still. I can now push the bike around, cold, with just the clutch pulled in (not possible with 5100 and a cold engine). I'll be sticking with Motul 300V - it costs more but just cause you have a cheap bike doesn't mean you should put cheap crud in it.
Michael
Still 10w40 with the synthetic?
300V 4T FACTORYLINE 10W40
Do NOT use these because they are for cars...
300V LE MANS 20W60
300V COMPETITION 15W50
300V CHRONO 10W40
300V POWER 5W40
300V POWER RACING 5W30
300V HIGH-RPM 0W20
These are the motorbike oils...
300V 4T FACTORYLINE 15W50
300V 4T FACTORYLINE 10W40
300V 4T FACTORYLINE 5W40
300V 4T FACTORYLINE 5W30
I use the 10W40.
Michael
Thanks. I dont think ive ever seen Motul at my automotive stores.
Quote from: Twism86 on April 28, 2011, 03:51:55 PM
Thanks. I dont think ive ever seen Motul at my automotive stores.
Me neither. The Automotive Stores generally don't stock it. Got to go to a Motorcycle Store.
Michael
FWIW, I've never seen a 10w40 that wasn't safe for use in the bike. The only car oils you really have to worry about are the energy conserving oils, and they are generally only available in the super thin (~0w20) weights.
Moto Oils tend to have a better additive package, though.
Hey guys, come look at this! A thread being hijacked into an oil discussion, who would have thought? :D
lmao.....^^^^^^^^^^
Quote from: the mole on April 28, 2011, 06:10:38 PM
Hey guys, come look at this! A thread being hijacked into an oil discussion, who would have thought? :D
Where? ???
Has someone mentioned the O word again?
Quote from: sledge on April 28, 2011, 09:45:05 PM
Has someone mentioned the O word again?
Nope. Not at all.
(http://resource.mmgn.com/pwnage/user_9466_ZL27XRM7.jpg)
To reiterate what officer said. No problem is here. The enemy will feel our wrath. They will sink in a quagmire of oil. We have won. Long praise the milk
(http://www.fanforhire.com/images/comical_ali.jpg)
STOP YELLING!!!