Some of you may have seen me posting earlier about some height adjustments for when I got my gs500.
Well that day was today, after some trouble getting the thing started I was able to ride it back to my place.
Have some questions though, the guy had taken off the carbs, scrubbed them up good, put in new jets. But I think he also gutted the emissions?
But I don't think he did an actual "re-jet" when he cleaned them? If I'm understanding it all correctly, I think he just put the same jets size that it had before. Is this something I should be worried about?
It's my first bike, so I'm not too worried about having awesome power or anything (though I will need it to get me around on the freeway).
Some of the other quirks I was worried about, the idle hops around. He messed with the screw a bunch when he was trying to get it started, and now he says it's idling around 1000 but if I just let it sit there it randomly goes up like another thousand, then drops back down? Doesn't die, but it's just doing it's own thing.
Also if I give the throttle a good snap, it jumps right up, but on the way down it hangs a few thousand higher then idle then slowly crawls back down.
Also another fun little quirk is that the the tachometer is really off, about 2k RPMs fast when it's idling, any suggestions as to what to look for to get that back as it should be?
Thanks!
Wright.
The hanging idle is most likely from an air leak. If you search the term, you should have plenty of reading material.......
Let me get this straight: when the engine is around 1000 rpm, the tach is showing about 3000? Something is messed up. Either the wrong tach all together or it it's broken. Either way, a replacement is a good bet
vacuum leak around the carbs somewhere or your idle mix could be missed needing high idle screw position
Quote from: Big Rich on April 27, 2011, 10:28:19 PM
The hanging idle is most likely from an air leak. If you search the term, you should have plenty of reading material.......
Let me get this straight: when the engine is around 1000 rpm, the tach is showing about 3000? Something is messed up. Either the wrong tach all together or it it's broken. Either way, a replacement is a good bet
Alright thanks, i'll look into that.
But as far as the tach, I can make a video if you want to hear the engine in comparison to the tach, it's just as you said, can drop to the engine to a quiet chug and it's still reading almost 3k on the tach. The guy I got it from said it could maybe be the cable or the actual unit inside? And any clue where I would go about getting a replacement tach unit?
-Wright
Ebay would be my first guess. Scratch that......the buying section here would work better.
Does it bottom out at 3000? Or is it reading high all the time?
Quote from: Big Rich on April 27, 2011, 11:32:25 PM
Ebay would be my first guess. Scratch that......the buying section here would work better.
Does it bottom out at 3000? Or is it reading high all the time?
I'm fairly certain is just reads high all the time since any acceleration causes it to raise. The weird thing is it almost levels off and goes backwards around 9k. So like 9-10k on the tach sounds like a heck of a lot more than it reads, that could just be inexperience though. Either way it'd be nice to get that resolved :icon_sad:
Well I took it on it's first real ride today. Was pretty fun, seems a lot harder to get it moving that it should be, dies crazy easy but whatever lol.
The hanging idle though, don't know if this is of any importance, but say I'm pulling up to a stop so I pull in the clutch, RPMs drop to 2-3k and hang there, but since it's in first if I just ease out the clutch a tiny bit to slow the engine down then pull the clutch back in, it stays down until I go again. Is this hard on the clutch? I just felt kinda silly at stop lights with the bike being louder than a still bike should be lol. And would this lean it more towards air leak, screws, or valves?
Thanks! :laugh:
-Wright
Air leak. Like Big Rich said. Search for hanging idle. Hours of reading available.
i had a lot of trouble with hanging idle until i adjusted the idle mixture properly maybe 2.5 turns out on the bench while cleaning, then trimmed it when the bike was running in tiny increments until it was perfect
while running turn the mix maybe an 1/8 out and listen to see if the the engine speeds up or slows down, then use the idle speed adjust to bring it back to a 1000, then move the idle mix another 1/8 and see if it goes up or down
there is a point where the idle speed will start to go down again, then you know you have found the peak
what happens if the idle mix is all jacked up you have to open the throttle with the idle speed screw to make up for the poor running, and an open throttle will want to stay revving a little bit more than one that slams closed except for tjust that crack needed to keep turning over at 900
ive got an 89 that i though had all sorts of problems, but now it revs great, and falls straight back down to 900rpm
Alright thanks I'll get right on that reading.
Any idea why it's so hard to get it up and going? I can crank up the revs and start easing out the clutch, but as soon as it starts moving it just drops out completely. Killed it 3 times at a stop sign. Pulled it off, raised the choke about half way, cranked it up and barely got it off before it was gonna die again. ( :dunno_black:
Did you let it warm up on full choke for at least 30 seconds? Do this and then turn the chaoke to half and go for a ride. About a mile down the road you can switch it all the way off. The GS being cold blooded likes to be choked.
Quote from: Twisted on April 28, 2011, 10:24:53 PM
Did you let it warm up on full choke for at least 30 seconds? Do this and then turn the chaoke to half and go for a ride. About a mile down the road you can switch it all the way off. The GS being cold blooded likes to be choked.
Holy crap, 30 seconds? Maybe something is wrong with my bike...It takes a solid 3-5 minutes at full choke to get the thing warm enough to lower it to half. Even then it's un-rideable, touch the throttle and it bogs out. Takes about 10 minutes minimum before I can get on it, even then if I give it too much it back fires. To be fair it was about 47 degrees out. But still, maybe I need to take it in somewhere.
-Wright
Quote from: Wrightboy on April 29, 2011, 02:49:29 PM
Quote from: Twisted on April 28, 2011, 10:24:53 PM
Did you let it warm up on full choke for at least 30 seconds? Do this and then turn the chaoke to half and go for a ride. About a mile down the road you can switch it all the way off. The GS being cold blooded likes to be choked.
Holy crap, 30 seconds? Maybe something is wrong with my bike...It takes a solid 3-5 minutes at full choke to get the thing warm enough to lower it to half. Even then it's un-rideable, touch the throttle and it bogs out. Takes about 10 minutes minimum before I can get on it, even then if I give it too much it back fires. To be fair it was about 47 degrees out. But still, maybe I need to take it in somewhere.
-Wright
Not unusual. Mine takes about 5-10 min before she purrs.
Quote from: tussey on April 29, 2011, 03:52:31 PM
Quote from: Wrightboy on April 29, 2011, 02:49:29 PM
Quote from: Twisted on April 28, 2011, 10:24:53 PM
Did you let it warm up on full choke for at least 30 seconds? Do this and then turn the chaoke to half and go for a ride. About a mile down the road you can switch it all the way off. The GS being cold blooded likes to be choked.
Holy crap, 30 seconds? Maybe something is wrong with my bike...It takes a solid 3-5 minutes at full choke to get the thing warm enough to lower it to half. Even then it's un-rideable, touch the throttle and it bogs out. Takes about 10 minutes minimum before I can get on it, even then if I give it too much it back fires. To be fair it was about 47 degrees out. But still, maybe I need to take it in somewhere. (And it was warm, had been riding around town for 15 minutes or so before heading out to the country roads)
-Wright
Not unusual. Mine takes about 5-10 min before she purrs.
Oh okay, that's reassuring. :)
Sorry for all these questions, first bike and I'm somewhat paranoid about it. Shoulda seen me 30 minutes ago, checked the oil, it was barely on the stick. Was like "OMG He said he just changed it!"...5 minutes later I realize I had checked it while it was on the side stand :-X
Another question though...or two I guess. When it's warming up, after a few minutes I'll rev it a little to see how it does, if I hit about 5k-6k sometimes it makes like a Shhck noise as it comes down. I wouldn't really call it a smack...but it also did it while riding it right after an up shift.
And how good is acceleration supposed to be on one of these bikes?
In first WOT is a semi-decent acceleration (semi decent means, maybe a little faster than a car gradually pulling away from a stop sign), then I shift into second and open it all the way up again, and it slowly crawls up to about 35-40 (Tried sticking 3rd in there but that made it slower). Just curious because it seems like I would be killed on one of these things if I ever had to try and get it up to 60 or something, would take like a mile lol.
Was wondering if since the guy I bought it from redid the carbs, could he have screwed up something with the jets? Killing my acceleration? I'd take it down to a mechanic but there really aren't any places that specialize in motorcycles.
- Wright
Edit: Ask the seller and he said he just put stock jets and these knock off pods http://wiki.gstwins.com/uploads/Upgrades/knockoffpods2.jpg
Your acceleration really depends on your sprockets. A bigger rear will get you moving quicker but will drop your top speed (and cruising rpm's).
The only way to know what was done to your carbs is actually get in them. Drain the gas, remove the float bowls, and look at the main jets. Fairly simple after you do it.
So I think I've figured out a couple of things.
First off, starting out from a stop, I was just being too gentle, with the tach already being slow I have to bring it up to 5500 at least and then it pulls away just fine.
The slow acceleration at WOT...is because it's WOT. If I keep it at 3/4 until about 6-7k RPM then crank it open the difference is amazing. And the pull after 7k is very strong.
I'm assuming this is because i'm running so lean (or rich? something non-normal)? So WOT is just killing it? Regardless, I learned that the bike really doesn't have anything at all in the lower RPM range, gotta get it up if I you wanna go.
It backfires...a lot. Anytime it's winding down. Coming down from 60mph it's a LOUD pop lol.
Can I play with the mix screw at all to help with this? Really don't have time or money for a rejet. Doesn't have to be perfect, but I feel kinda silly popping around town.
Thanks!
-Wright