Over the past couple years, people have PM'd me about my clutch upgrade and how difficult it is.Well,not very difficult, and can usually be done in a couple hours.I don't have pics but I'll give ya the part numbers/names and tools I used.Go ahead and get things for an oil change.The oil will need to be drained out before work can begin.You will also need to adjust your clutch at the engine and at the lever.I got lucky and only had to adjust mine at the engine.This is also for stock replacement clutches.
Parts
SV650(99-02) EBC Kevlar Racing Clutch Friction discs-This should cover all years.
SV650(99-02) Barnnet Racing Clutch Springs-This should cover all years.BE AWARE THAT THESE SPRINGS ARE CONSIDERABLY STIFFER THAN STOCK.THREE STOCK SPRINGS CAN BE USED TO LIGHTEN THE FEEL.EVERY OTHER SPRING WILL NEED TO BE A STOCK SPRING FOR A LIGHTER FEEL.
Gasket Suzuki P/N 477598-001 This may vary with year model.
Oil Filter
4 quarts of oil-I use motorcycle specific oil for wet clutches.
Red Lock Tite
Blue Lock Tite
Carb/Brake/Parts cleaner-Spray can type.
Tools
Service Manual-I used a Clymer.
Various metric sockets and ratchet,Also need an allen/hex head socket for clutch removal.Any cheapo will do.
Inch pound torque wrench-NOT FOOT POUND These can be borrowed/rented from some auto parts stores.
Gasket scraper or razor blade-Be careful not to nick or scratch and gasket surfaces.
Lint free shop cloths
Oil catch/drain pan
600 grit sand paper
Micrometer
Feeler gauges
Rear stand if you don't have a center stand.
Large flat end screw driver
Flat surface for checking clutch plates.A good quality flat kitchen counter usually works.
THIS IS MY TECHNIQUE.THERE ARE VARIATIONS ON HOW TO PREFORM A CLUTCH REPLACEMENT.I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES CAUSED BY AN IMPROPERLY INSTALLED AND ADJUSTED CLUTCH.THIS IS HOW I DO MINE.ALWAYS CONSULT A PROFESSIONAL WHEN IN DOUBT.
With that being said.Here's how I did my clutch upgrade.I followed the manual. :icon_razz:
Just kidding.I did use the manual for most of the inspection and replacement.Get the bike up on it's center stand, or a rear stand, if you don't have a center stand.First thing I do is get a gallon size zip lock bag,pour about a half a quart of oil in the bag,set in the clutch friction disc(not the steel clutch plates)in the bag with the oil.Make sure to seal the bag and get most of the air out.Set it aside for later.First thing I do is run the clutch lever adjuster all the way in.Then I run the clutch adjuster, on the side cover, all the way in.Doing this will make sure that there is nothing pushing the clutches apart,or trying to hold them apart on reassembly.Now I drain the oil,and change the oil filter.This is how I do it to keep from forgetting to change the filter later.Make sure to reinstall the drain plug and move the pan over and under the engine side cover.There won't be much oil come out, but there will be enough to make a mess.Clean the side of the engine before tear down.This helps keep the internals from getting dirty.Now,remove the little round Suzuki side cover.Take a picture and make note of how everything is assembled.Now disassemble everything per the service manual's instructions.If you are planning a Bob B. advanced ignition rotor,now is a good time to send it to him.Please include payment, and a token of your appreciation, when sending your rotor to him.He is a great guy to work with.Now that you have the ignition off and set it aside,remove all the bolts holding the side cover on.Double check and make sure all the bolts have been removed, or the side cover could get cracked or broken during removal.DO NOT STICK ANYTHING BETWEEN THE SIDE COVER AND ENGINE CASE TO PRY THE COVER OFF!There are two tabs to use to pry the cover off,pic are below.It shouldn't take much pressure to pop it loose.Carefully remove and scrape any old gasket off the mating surface.It needs to be flat and smooth when your done.Use some spray cleaner and a cloth to clean the inside of the side cover.Set it aside to dry.Now locate and remove the six clutch retaining bolts.Remove the springs and keepers.Clean and set them aside for now.It takes a little muscle to pop these loose.Be careful.If a bolt breaks,the entire clutch basket has to be replaced.The first thing to come off is the clutch pressure plate.Clean it with spray cleaner and a cloth.Then inspect it per the service manual.I like to lightly sand the clutch mating surface with 600 to 800 grit sand paper.Just enough to knock off the shine but leave no sanding swirl marks.Clean again and set it aside for reassembly.Next remove the clutch friction discs and steel clutch plates.Clean the steel clutch plates with spray cleaner and a cloth.Be careful not to cut yourself on the sharp edges.Again,refer to the service manual on how to inspect the steel clutch plates.Replace as needed.If I have to replace one,I replace them all.It's ok to trash the friction discs,they're being replaced anyway.Again,I like to lightly sand the steel clutch plates to remove the shine.Clean the clutch plates and set them aside.Here is where things get interesting.I inspect the clutch hub and basket with it on the engine.If I have been having clutch problems such as severe slipping,chatter,grabbing,or sticking,I remove the clutch hub and basket.For reference purposes,the clutch basket's proper name is outer housing or primary drive gear.Cover the internal parts with a cloth and then scrape off the old gasket.Clean the mating surface and check that it's flat.Now wipe down the internal parts as good as possible with a cloth and prepare for reassembly.Install a friction disc and then a steel clutch plate on the clutch hub.Every other one should be a friction disc and ending with a friction disc.Keep the zip lock bag of oil for later.Install the pressure plate.Now for the clutch springs and keepers.If you want serious clutch grip,install all six of the new springs.This set up is good for built engines and racing.For street use,install a stock GS spring in every other spring bucket.Put a drop of red lock tite on the bolts and torque everything down per the service manual.Now,adjust the clutch and lever per the service manual and check for proper operation.Adjust the clutch on the side cover first and then make fine adjustments at the lever.Now onto reinstalling the side cover.Make sure the side cover is clean and dry inside.Lay it next to the bike, making sure the bottom of the cover is facing the bike.Grab the new gasket and zip lock bag of oil.Use your finger to smear oil,from the zip lock bag, on the gasket.The lay the gasket on the side cover in it's proper orientation.It can only go one way and line up.Put a couple bolts in the top of the cover,making sure they hold the gasket on for assembly.Put one very small drop of blue lock tite on each bolt and reassemble.Torque to spec per service manuals instructions.I do a clock wise pattern when I torque down the bolts.NOTE-YOU DON'T NEED MUCH LOCK TITE AT ALL.JUST A TINY BIT.ENOUGH TO KEEP VIBRATION FROM BACKING OUT THE BOLTS.I have lost bolts off my bike because there was nothing but torque holding the bolts on.These bolts are very lightly torqued which puts them at risk for being vibrated loose.The oil on the gasket helps it to swell and stop leaks.NOTE-DO NOT USE ANY KIND/TYPE OF SEALER ON ANY ENGINE GASKETS OR SURFACES.IT WILL DISLODGE AND BLOCK THE OIL GALLEYS RESULTING IN A BLOWN ENGINE.Wipe the engine down and fill with oil.Clean the area under the bike and let it set for about an hour.Now go check for leaks.If there is leaks,pull the side cover,and check the engine case and side cover for old gasket material or defects.Reinstall as I mentioned above.If there are no leaks,go for a ride and recheck the oil every few miles to insure there are no leaks.Be gentle on the clutch for the first 500 miles to give it time to seat in.Then giver h377.
Side Cover Pry Tabs.This is one of my parts bikes.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/sidecoverprytab2.jpg)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/sidecoverprytab.jpg)
great post!!!!!!!!!.......,my clutch is slipping and i need to do a replacement , this will definitely help
Thanks.
Sounds like this would make for a wheelie machine! I bet you could abuse this clutch all day long without problems.
Quote from: jeffdodge on May 03, 2011, 08:20:45 AM
Sounds like this would make for a wheelie machine! I bet you could abuse this clutch all day long without problems.
I guess.I'm not a wheelie guy.I just like killing curves, since I live int the foothills of the mountains.
A few blows from a rubber mallet will dislodge most any stuck part that isn't bolted in place.
Not sure why you'd want to run stiffer springs than stock. Our GS500 doesn't put down enough power for the springs to be an issue. Abuse such as repeated race launches (3+ without a cooldown) will cause the plates to overheat, but they recover just fine if you give them a little bit of time to cool (speaking from experience.)
I do both. I live where all the roads have curves and I use almost all my tire; my last dirt bike was a CR250 with a barnett dirt digger and CR500 clutch springs for a barnett upgrade, so it bit hard and always pulled up. I miss that.
Quote from: burning1 on May 03, 2011, 04:47:24 PM
A few blows from a rubber mallet will dislodge most any stuck part that isn't bolted in place.
Not sure why you'd want to run stiffer springs than stock. Our GS500 doesn't put down enough power for the springs to be an issue. Abuse such as repeated race launches (3+ without a cooldown) will cause the plates to overheat, but they recover just fine if you give them a little bit of time to cool (speaking from experience.)
I've never had any issues with removal/installation of a clutch on any bike.A rubber hammer shouldn't be needed.
I run a 160 rear tire that gives more traction and weighs more,plus I do a lot of shifting through the mountains.We have tight curvy roads here.The stock GS clutch will slip fairly easy after riding all day blasting up/down hills.This I feel is reason enough for the heavier springs.Besides,the clutch springs are fairly cheap.I give $12 for all six Barnnetts that I installed.I did get a close out deal on those,thanks Bob B.
Here is the post where I broke down the cost between a factory replacement and my aftermarket upgrade.Seems I gave $10 for my Barrnett clutch springs,I was thinking $12.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=42447.0
My aftermarket clutch upgrade $78 all in.
Factory replacement clutch parts $138 all in.
so the everything you used for this mod will work on a 91?
Quote from: nydad19 on May 03, 2011, 08:03:31 PM
so the everything you used for this mod will work on a 91?
Yes,it will work on all years GS up to 2004.I'm not sure about 05+.I really don't think there were any changes after 04.It's just the newest bike that I know of that had an SV650 clutch installed.
these parts you listed should be sv650 (99-02) and if its a street bike maybe go with barnett friction disks instead so its not so stiff...gonna order the parts tonight so just making sure i get it right...... :thumb:
$46 kevlar clutch friction discs
$10 Barnett clutch springs
$12 engine side cover gasket
$6 10-40 Valvoline motorcycle oil
$4 Fram oil filter with cover O-ring
-----------
$78 for clutch upgrade and oil change
Quote from: nydad19 on May 03, 2011, 08:20:04 PM
these parts you listed should be sv650 (99-02) and if its a street bike maybe go with barnett friction disks instead so its not so stiff...gonna order the parts tonight so just making sure i get it right...... :thumb:
$46 kevlar clutch friction discs
$10 Barnett clutch springs
$12 engine side cover gasket
$6 10-40 Valvoline motorcycle oil
$4 Fram oil filter with cover O-ring
-----------
$78 for clutch upgrade and oil change
That's correct.For a softer feel, but firmer than a stock GS,you need to use 3 of the Barnnett springs.The friction material doesn't make the clutch effort more firm.It just cuts down on slipping and grabs faster as the clutch lever is being released.
thank you much...let you know how it goes for me when i get it all done....first time messing with the clutch so its gonna be an experience
Quote from: nydad19 on May 03, 2011, 08:36:41 PM
thank you much...let you know how it goes for me when i get it all done....first time messing with the clutch so its gonna be an experience
You're welcome and Sounds great.
Here's a pic of a GS clutch that has been removed from the engine.
YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE CLUTCH.I have marked the three springs that need to be replaced with the new springs.Don't mix up the new and old springs.They usually look the same.
Replace every other spring with the upgraded springs for softer feel.This will be slightly firmer than a stock GS clutch feel.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/031409003.jpg)
wow i cant find those friction plates for less than a $100 with shipping......and i still have to get the springs and stuff...o well gotta get it done ....best place is ebay so far at about $85-$90.. :dunno_black:
Prices have went up over the past couple years.
i found a kit for about $120 on ebay..it comes with the discs and the springs from ebc...it should be the same outcome without the barett springs i assume...i also found a full barett kit with friction plates ,steel plates and springs for $150 but i dont think the steel plates are necessary...just putting the info out there for anybody else following the post
Quote from: nydad19 on May 03, 2011, 09:20:14 PM
i found a kit for about $120 on ebay..it comes with the discs and the springs from ebc...it should be the same outcome without the barett springs i assume...i also found a full barett kit with friction plates ,steel plates and springs for $150 but i dont think the steel plates are necessary...just putting the info out there for anybody else following the post
If the clutch has been slipping,I would check it out, and make sure the steel clutch plates and pressure plate is still in good condition.As far as EBC,it's better than stock GS or SV,unless it's kevlar.Then it's a lot better.As far as EBC replacement VS Barnnett replacement,they are about the same and better than stock SV/GS.
I should add that this is my opinion and I am going on my personal experiences with these two products.
Quote from: ben2go on May 03, 2011, 07:36:18 PM
I've never had any issues with removal/installation of a clutch on any bike.A rubber hammer shouldn't be needed.[/blockquote]
Shouldn't be needed on the clutch, but it works wonders on stubborn engine covers, and it's far more gentle than a pry bar, even with the tabs. Everyone should have a big rubber hammer. :laughing
Quote from: ben2go on May 03, 2011, 07:36:18 PMI run a 160 rear tire that gives more traction and weighs more,plus I do a lot of shifting through the mountains.We have tight curvy roads here.The stock GS clutch will slip fairly easy after riding all day blasting up/down hills.This I feel is reason enough for the heavier springs.Besides,the clutch springs are fairly cheap.I give $12 for all six Barnnetts that I installed.I did get a close out deal on those,thanks Bob B.
http://gotbluemilk.com/web110502b/s/imagepages/image189.html
http://gotbluemilk.com/web110502b/s/imagepages/image207.html
I spent Monday running my GS500 around Infineon raceway in the A and B groups with a 140mm wide rear tire and the stock (93 vintage) clutch. No issues whatsoever. :dunno:
Sounds like your bike as been taken care of.Not many have been.Plus you know how to properly use a clutch.Most new riders do not.A performance clutch won't help a new rider but once a newbie needs a new,here's the upgrade.
:)
Don't let my comments take anything away from this write-up; it's an excellent one with great pictures. Thanks for posting it up. :thumb:
so what would be the signs that the steel clutch plates and pressure plate are going or bad.....what should i be looking for when i take it apart
On the pressure plates, look for excessive wear of the friction material. I don't recall the permitted minimum pad thickness, but I bet it's in the service manual. On the steel plates, look for excessive bluing, and excessive runout.
Quote from: nydad19 on May 04, 2011, 03:49:13 PM
so what would be the signs that the steel clutch plates and pressure plate are going or bad.....what should i be looking for when i take it apart
Bluing of the steel clutch plates is the first sign that they have been over heated.Also look at the pressure plate and check for scoring and bluing.The pressure plate is the plate that the springs are set in.Also check the warpage of the plates.To do this you will need a dead flat surface and a feeler gauge.I use a stone counter top.Clean the plates really well the some cleaner.Lay them flat on what ever surface you choose to check them on.Be sure NOT to press them down.Now try to slide a feeler gauge under any gaps.if a 0.10mm(0.004in.) or larger fits under it,it's to warped to use.Check both sides.The next is the thickness.Check it with a micrometer every inch.It should be no thinner than 2.62mm(0.103in).I got these measurement from my Clymer manual and it's the ones I used for my clutch job.There's nothing written on the pressure plate.It's one of those use your bestest judgement on it.
whats the name of the gasket i need when i do this repair??...i shouldnt need the micrometer or feeler gauge if im changing the steel plates also right..
Gasket,clutch is how it is stated on the Suzuki parts fiche.
yea i went to bike bandit and the part number you gave matched up with the clutch gasket its on the way
Anyone here tried bead or sandblasting the steel plates to roughen them up? I've heard this gives you better clutch modulation (more like a dry clutch) but I've never had a chance to try it.
Quote from: noiseguy on May 10, 2011, 07:43:45 PM
Anyone here tried bead or sandblasting the steel plates to roughen them up? I've heard this gives you better clutch modulation (more like a dry clutch) but I've never had a chance to try it.
I have not because it removes to much material,that's why I stated that I use 600 grit sand paper.
I throw them on the ground(concrete) and scuff them up with my boot......seriously!
then flip them over and do the other side
endurance racing trick fast and works
so i did the whole clutch upgrade with a complete barnett clutch kit... :woohoo:..everything went great besides the fact it took me longer to get the old gasket off then to actually replace the disks and springs.. :technical:.but anyway now i go to reap the benefits of my repair and the bike wont start for some reason... :dunno_black:..i got gas and everything else seems fine...any ideas on what might be going on
Quote from: nydad19 on May 15, 2011, 04:51:11 PM
so i did the whole clutch upgrade with a complete barnett clutch kit... :woohoo:..everything went great besides the fact it took me longer to get the old gasket off then to actually replace the disks and springs.. :technical:.but anyway now i go to reap the benefits of my repair and the bike wont start for some reason... :dunno_black:..i got gas and everything else seems fine...any ideas on what might be going on
Replacing the clutch shouldn't cause starting issues.Did you get everything set up correctly in the ignition when you reinstalled it?Ignition rotor set and torqued properly?I added a small drop of blue loctite to the ignition rotor bolt.I've seen those back out and there's not much torque holding them on.Is the switch working on the clutch lever.Those can be a pain.Un plug the wires and connect them together to make sure it isn't the clutch lever switch.
i got it started but it ran crazy and keeps cutting out on me...before i did this it ran fine so im guessing somethings up with ignition but i did everything right.....took off the screws and bolt and then the ground and put it back on when i was done..when i was taking off the the rotor it spun on me at first while i was holding it with a wrench could that have somethin to do with it...besides that everything went texbook
Quote from: nydad19 on May 15, 2011, 06:06:21 PM
i got it started but it ran crazy and keeps cutting out on me...before i did this it ran fine so im guessing somethings up with ignition but i did everything right.....took off the screws and bolt and then the ground and put it back on when i was done..when i was taking off the the rotor it spun on me at first while i was holding it with a wrench could that have somethin to do with it...besides that everything went texbook
I wouldn't think so.Did it line back up and seat into the slot properly?When I remove/install mine.I put my bike in first gear, and hold the brake pedal down with my knee, while I remove/install the ignition rotor bolt.Check for pinched or bare wires around the side cover where it goes through the cover.
im sure nothing got pinched in the cover and the rotor sat properly when i tightened it up...im at a loss, im gonna have to go at the assembly tomorrow to double check everything...i cant imagine it being anything else it started and idled fine before.....would something going on in the assembly cause the problems im having though..rough idle,cutting out,and weird squeell sound when trying to start
Quote from: nydad19 on May 15, 2011, 06:33:09 PM
im sure nothing got pinched in the cover and the rotor sat properly when i tightened it up...im at a loss, im gonna have to go at the assembly tomorrow to double check everything...i cant imagine it being anything else it started and idled fine before.....would something going on in the assembly cause the problems im having though..rough idle,cutting out,and weird squeell sound when trying to start
Nothing in the clutch should be doing that.All I can think of is something in the ignition system.The only thing in the clutch system that controls the electric system is the switch under the clutch lever on the handle bars.It keeps the engine from starting until the clutch lever is pulled in.
something must be going on with the ignition then....figures :mad:
i got the bike running and wow :woohoo:...what a difference,i used all six springs and boy does this clutch grab now...it stopped slipping and the gears move great...thank you for the advice ben2go..this is definitely a great upgrade or repair in general...my first time ever doing this job and i must say it wasnt bad at all,definitely need a clymer and the right tools though..shouldn't take more then an hour or two depending on how bad the gasket is on there....i recommend for anyone having clutch issues or just want a better setup..cost me about $200 for the barnett clutch kit(springs ,friction plates,steel plates) the gasket, and the clymer manual :thumb:
Quote from: nydad19 on May 24, 2011, 08:56:31 PM
i got the bike running and wow :woohoo:...what a difference,i used all six springs and boy does this clutch grab now...it stopped slipping and the gears move great...thank you for the advice ben2go..this is definitely a great upgrade or repair in general...my first time ever doing this job and i must say it wasnt bad at all,definitely need a clymer and the right tools though..shouldn't take more then an hour or two depending on how bad the gasket is on there....i recommend for anyone having clutch issues or just want a better setup..cost me about $200 for the barnett clutch kit(springs ,friction plates,steel plates) the gasket, and the clymer manual :thumb:
You're welcome and congrats on getting the bike running.hope this write up helps more people.
Is there are any proper way to tighten clutch spring bolts with no torque wrench?
Some say OEM is better.
http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=67077
Quote from: KlaXon on July 14, 2011, 01:27:38 PM
Is there are any proper way to tighten clutch spring bolts with no torque wrench?
An inch pound torque wrench must be used because of the springs.Also make sure to use loctite on the bolts
Why?
Any figure quoted in inch-pounds can easily be converted to foot-pounds or newton-meters
1 in/lb = 0.112 Nm
or
1 in/lb = 0.083 ft/lb
Do the maths first, it only becomes a concern if your torque wrench wont go that low.
Quote from: sledge on July 15, 2011, 05:08:52 AM
Why?
Any figure quoted in inch-pounds can easily be converted to foot-pounds or newton-meters
1 in/lb = 0.112 Nm
or
1 in/lb = 0.083 ft/lb
Do the maths first, it only becomes a concern if your torque wrench wont go that low.
The torque specs 35 to 53 inch pounds.None of my ft lbs torque wrenches will go that low.Never seen one that would.
35 to 53 inch-pounds???
Hit it midrange.... and call it 45 inch-pounds, a bit of maths gives 5.04.....There are plenty of TWs and torque-drivers available that can go as low as 5Nm.
You dont have to use a inch/lb TW for an application, you dont have to use a Nm TW for an application you can use either The only difference between compatable models is the scale and so long as you have converted the figs and set it correctly it wont make a blind bit of difference which one you use.
Well thanks to my complete ignorance my clutch has worn itself out in 5000k's. Probably due to the fact of not having the cable properly adjusted. :technical: So with new parts on order I'll be making a video on the changeout.
Did you have it adjusted with no free play at the lever?
It's been adjusted for me now and the clutch bites when the lever is nearly completely realeased.
Quote from: aussiegs on December 06, 2011, 04:01:53 AM
It's been adjusted for me now and the clutch bites when the lever is nearly completely realeased.
mmm, it's likely not correct then. check the manual for end play at the lever (grip), and the proper procedure for adjusting the clutch action at the engine at at the lever. it's fairly easy after the first time.
i don't think my gs' clutch ever slipped in 35,000 miles of riding, other than when i dumped in the wrong oil twice. i'm not super-demi-god track monster though, just a regular spirited street idiot. O0
Like I said its been adjusted correctly and the clutch is taking up at the end of the lever travel.