G'day all.
I've just a 06 GS500F as of a few days ago (127km ago in fact), this is my first bike so am still very much a noob at riding.
Having only really driven my MX5 for years where the revs are normally at about 4k, and at 6 or so with 'sprited' driving. How does the GS sit in terms of day to day driving, and on more spirited rides over it's rev range?
I'm just not sure what I'm feeling for yet for the bike to sitting in it's 'happy' zone. currently i'm doing most of my riding between about 3.5 and maybe 6.
and don't worry, spirited riding is still a long ways off for me yet, just the engineer in me wanting to know how it all works.
Cheers,
HH
It's pretty much based on where you feel comfortable. If the engine is chugging coming out of turns you're definitely too low in the RPMs, but otherwise it's up to you whether you want to ride at 3.5k rpm or if you want to ride at 7k rpm.
In general though I'd say 3-4k for relaxed riding, 5-6 for more spirited riding, and 9-10k for aggressive riding. I like to keep my rpms as low as possible, so I always tried to cruise around at 2.5k rpm but always had to make myself go higher because the engine didn't care for it when I would try to come out of turns.
Welcome to the forum Hayden - I was asking the same questions in January this year when I got my GS500!
3-4 grand is fine when your cruising but you don't want to be any lower when you want to put the power down!
I ride almost every day now so economy is important - I short shift on light to medium throttle under 4,000rpm until I get to my cruising speed. Its still fast enough to get away from most cars at the lights.
When you are up it for the rent though, anywhere from 6,000rpm to redline is fair game!
At first I was a bit hesitant to rev the motor hard (after years of driving cars) but in time it becomes intuitive - you will hear and feel the revs instead of looking at the tacho soon!
Funny. I had a Miata as well; the GS500 and Miata have about the same torque bands.
Anything below 3000 is lugging the engine = Bad.
Anything over around 7000 sustained is probably excessive too.
During accelleration, anything over 9000 is just making noise.
I believe 10500 is the peak horsepower so the shift point should be 11K to get everything out of it. You have to keep in mind that 1st gear at 11K is still pulling harder than 2nd gear at 7K. Watch out if you are not comfortable shifting yet though. You don't want to get over 11 because of valve float and you certainly don't want to accidentally downshift instead of upshift from 9k.
Quote from: kman on May 10, 2011, 06:57:51 PM
I believe 10500 is the peak horsepower so the shift point should be 11K to get everything out of it. You have to keep in mind that 1st gear at 11K is still pulling harder than 2nd gear at 7K. Watch out if you are not comfortable shifting yet though. You don't want to get over 11 because of valve float and you certainly don't want to accidentally downshift instead of upshift from 9k.
Telling a new rider on their first bike to shift gears near redline is irresponsible, nor does it answer the man's question.
@HaydenH Try this: Shift Up at roughly 5,000-5,500 rpm. 4th gear will cruise at 4,000 no problems. 5th gear will sit at 4,000 as well. 6th gear does not really like 4,000 and is happier near 5,000 and will ride all day long at 6,000 without drama.
This should get you going for long enough until you learn the nuances of your bike.
Michael
just think of it as percentage of the power band
gs500 is fine at 6k perhaps 55% of available revs
my car redlines at 6k, but cruises fine at 2.5 or 3k
Thanks everyone.
That's just the sort of info i was after.
Went for a ride tonight (going into a Canberra winter - its getting bloody cold - but that's another story) and had a play while cruising at around 70km/hr on an almost empty stretch of road. As seems to be the consensus, at around 3 she starts to feel labored, 4 to 4.5 seems to be a happy zone (as I've come to refer to it), and above 5 is accelerating. 6th gear hasn't really come in to play yet for me (I'm restricted to 80km/hr on my Learners) since it just feels a little labored at 70-80 in 6th.
having everyone's input though to at least guide me i could at least start to feel the difference in the bike at the various ranges.
like everything, with time I'll slowly tune myself to the bike.
a little OT but still related, when starting the bike cold, where abouts should i hold the revs with the choke to warm her up?
I've generally been keeping her about 2.5 to 3, slowly easing back the choke as she increases in revs till she can sit with no, or almost no, choke. and then take it easy for the first 5 minutes or so of riding. is this reasonable to let her warm up?
6th labouring at at 80kph. Yep, that's 4,000 rpm like I said. 5th at 80 is good.
My start up routine...
-full choke
-start bike and let rev to 3,000 to 4,000 for one minute (which is about as long as it takes for me to put on my jacket, put bag on bike)
-reduce choke to around 2,000 and let it sit there while I slowly put on helmet and gloves and whatnot.
-slowly ride off
-after half a click or so, turn off choke all together (remember to do this). And keep riding it easy for a few minutes.
If you don't have an owner's manual, visit the wiki to download a PDF copy http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Maintenance.Books
The suggested start up procedure is similar to what I do. Suzuki suggests 30 seconds at 3,000-ish, then reducing to 2,000.
I do my routine the same in Summer and Winter. The only thing I find with mine is, if it's cold and the bike is outside it is more reluctant to start than if it is cold and in the garage. Something to do with the cold and the breeze vs just the cold. And by reluctant I mean, it might start to go but then conk out on the first try but will be okay on the second go - only if it is in the cold breeze, though.
Michael
I used and abused mne, for many years riding it hard, creeping into the redline on more than one occasion, In fact, I abused it real bad but it still gave me 135000 miles before she gave up, the last 150 or so miles with a broken piston on the left side, now with an engine that reliable, I dont think it realy matters how you ride it, just do what feels good for you.
As for staring cold, I have 2 marks on the switchgear next to the choke lever, pull it to the furthes mark, press the button and ride away in the winter, get to the big garden centre and turn it off.
In the summer, pull it to the first mark, press the button and ride away, turn it off ant the Island at the top of the estate.
You will get used to your own bike with time, you will develop your own riding style, maybe more than one (i tend to plod and be all relaxed on my 1200, but tend to be all hyper and threashy on the GS). Just enjoy it and know it will all come on its own.
He was asking about the whole range of the power band. The point is that there is still power over 9k it is not just making noise.
"
and don't worry, spirited riding is still a long ways off for me yet, just the engineer in me wanting to know how it all works.
"
I would agree to go by a percentage of redline about the same as you are comfortable with in a car. I believe you will find it runs a little smoother at above 3-4K though which may not be as much of an issue with a 4 cylinder or with a car. For standard riding one should be fine shifting at 5-6K or so, maybe less if you are cresting over a hill.
I suggest not worrying about the numbers; but wear earplugs under your helmet. Don't look at the tach. Look at the road. With your earplugs in, you won't be hesitant to use the motor. Don't forget to look around. Practice power braking just for fun. Get yourself a great controlled technique.
If you dont really like the choking on cold starts, I suggest a re-jet. Since I jetted mine, I havent had to use the choke once. :woohoo:
Mine's been redlined on more than one occasion, and hasn't exploded yet (yours is past run in mileage right?). The available power and stock gearing suits the L plate restrictions rather nicely, because it redlines in first gear at about 80km/h. You'll find sometimes that you'll be sitting at the lights with a merge coming up, and life's a whole lot less stressful if you can take off ahead of the other traffic.
You need to be aware that below 3200 to 3500 rpm,the battery is not being charged.My commuting has me shifting between 5000 and 6000 rpm.I never hesitate to red line my bike when I am zipping through my local mountains.I would recommend doing that until you have a good deal more riding experience.
Quote from: ben2go on May 12, 2011, 05:34:42 AM
You need to be aware that below 3200 to 3500 rpm,the battery is not being charged.
huh, that's a new one on me, thanks for the heads up!
Quote from: steezin_and_wheezin on May 12, 2011, 06:43:40 AM
Quote from: ben2go on May 12, 2011, 05:34:42 AM
You need to be aware that below 3200 to 3500 rpm,the battery is not being charged.
huh, that's a new one on me, thanks for the heads up!
OK,let me clarify a little more.Below about 3200 rpm,the GS electrics are using the same amount as or less power than the gen/alt are putting out,so power is coming from the battery.This is not really a bad thing,unless you are idling in heavy traffic,then the battery can die enough to shut down the bike.Ask me how I know.
If during operation a voltmeter gives a reading above that measured on the fully charged battery at rest, then the battery would be getting a charge. That would be a good and easy experiment to conduct. If the alternator can not balance the load unless it is at or above 3k RPM, I would suspect a defective alternator/regulator or a lot of accessory load.
In regard to new rider, I think it best to stay in comfort zone and to avoid great speed or jackrabbit starts. Just toodle about and get experience, the more the better. You can keep your revs up by using a gear lower than necessary for the job, maybe avoid top gear altogether for awhile.
prs
Bit off topic, but do the NSW learners limits apply in the ACT?
Quote from: lucifer_mr2 on May 13, 2011, 02:16:09 AM
Bit off topic, but do the NSW learners limits apply in the ACT?
I'd say so.... http://www.rego.act.gov.au/assets/PDFs/Motorcycle%20restrictions%20flyer.pdf
Michael
Quote from: lucifer_mr2 on May 13, 2011, 02:16:09 AM
Bit off topic, but do the NSW learners limits apply in the ACT?
Welcome to a F****** minefield. I'm yet to find a definitive answer. here's the facts that i have found over the last month.
ANY learner in NSW has to obey the NSW learners restrictions of 80KM/hr.
ACT P's have free rein regardless of what state.
NSW Learners are restricted in NSW, however (and heres the fun part) NSW RTA will direct you to ACT Roads for an answer within the ACT. ACT Roads will tell you that they don't have any authority over your license and you need to speak to NSW RTA. :cookoo:
I keep meaning to drop into the NSW and ACT police respectively to see just what they would do, since they're the ones handing out the tickets (or taking your license in the case of L's)
Quote from: Cosimo_Zaretti on May 12, 2011, 05:30:32 AM
(yours is past run in mileage right?).
Near enough to 12500km now. had the 12K service done just before i bought it, pretty much on schedule.
I've found the police in Gungahlin good for asking questions, they are actually quite friendly. Told me that I should stick to the NSW limits for learners, "when in Rome" was the phrase they used, and that rego tube holders are fine, they don't really care as long as they can see the colour and the experation date (the large number).
Also mister, the ACT LAMS list is a fair bit bigger than the NSW list because we can have bikes bigger than 660cc. Most cruisers are on the list, as well as some old BMW's.
In QLD those tubes are illegal. They actually state it on the rego papers your sticker comes on.