I've checked carbs, TPS, Plugs, Vacuum, everything I swear and he is still weird. Whenever I pull up to a red light he just dies. If I start him back up and play with the throttle a bit he will finally idle at 1200 RPM. I tried the white mixture screw and it just never seems to affect the bike. I'm killing my back brakes because I'm having to stay slightly on the throttle to keep him from dying.
HELP!
Mary
Have you cleaned the carbs recently? It could be your pilots are fouled. Does giving it a little choke help?
The white screw isn't the mixture screw, it's the idle adjustment. If your pilot circuit is fouled, this is only going to 'help' if you set your idle to like 4k which isn't really what you want.
It's not really doing anything to your brakes to be using them to keep the bike still. The wear on brakes is from the friction. Once you've stopped and you got pressure on the rotor, you're fine.
Yes, the carbs have been cleaned three times. Sorry, I used the wrong term for the white screw its as if I never even used it. I know the back bakes don't do anything while I'm sitting. But, I cannot use my front brake when stopping because I'm having to keep slightly on the throttle when slowing down or the bike will die. Therefore I can't turn the throttle and pull in the front brake hence why I'm killing my back brakes. No today I got no response out of the choke.
It could be a vacuum leak.That would be where I would start considering that the carbs have been cleaned that much.
Why have they been cleaned so much? I have yet to have to clean the carbs on my '05. Maybe I'm just lucky; my woman's '07 EX500 needs an annual carb cleaning to idle at all (&@$&%@!!!)
But, yeah, Ben is probably right, you probably have a small air leak somewhere between the carbs and the engine. In a very well ventilated area (ie outside) take an on-but-unlit propane blow torch and pass it around the front of the carbs and intake boots while the engine is running. If the engine revs up or down around a given spot, you've found an air leak.
Already checked Vaccum had that in my first post. No leaks.
Mary
Valves within spec? Could be an exhaust leak too, but that's not very likely.
have you got a hole in any of your carburetor diaphrams? My bike is an 09 model and has 2 diaphrams per carb.
how did you check for vac. leak?
I have a similar problem in that she dies when taking off from a complete stop. She idles just fine though? It seems as though the carbs are starving for gas. Do you know how to adjust the fuel going into the carb?
Thanks
Quote from: g.brooker on June 10, 2011, 04:12:27 PM
I have a similar problem in that she dies when taking off from a complete stop. She idles just fine though? It seems as though the carbs are starving for gas. Do you know how to adjust the fuel going into the carb?
Thanks
Sounds like you have a faulty vacuum petcock.Try running on PRI(prime).If it get's better then replace the petcock with a cheaper upgrade. http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=56352.0
Quote from: Toogoofy317 on June 09, 2011, 04:21:49 PM
Already checked Vaccum had that in my first post. No leaks.
Mary
If you have the stock petcock,and the diaphragm inside gets a hole or tear,it will suck excess fuel into the engine through the vacuum line.Have you checked for this?
don't you have a roommate that goes to MMI?
take it to skool.....
Quote from: ben2go on June 10, 2011, 10:05:52 PM
Quote from: Toogoofy317 on June 09, 2011, 04:21:49 PM
Already checked Vaccum had that in my first post. No leaks.
Mary
If you have the stock petcock,and the diaphragm inside gets a hole or tear,it will suck excess fuel into the engine through the vacuum line.Have you checked for this?
Mary's bike is only about 5 yrs old. She doesn't have perforated diaphragms, cracked air or fuel hoses, etc. It's too new for that.
I could suggest at least 20 reasons why the bike wont idle, from fuel starvation to a loose ignition rotor via low compression but given the nature of the fault and without actually inspecting the bike each one is a stab in the dark............which is why I am not even going to speculate.
You have tried the obvious but are still getting nowhere, its time now to look for professional help.
Quote from: bill14224 on June 11, 2011, 09:50:13 AM
Quote from: ben2go on June 10, 2011, 10:05:52 PM
Quote from: Toogoofy317 on June 09, 2011, 04:21:49 PM
Already checked Vaccum had that in my first post. No leaks.
Mary
If you have the stock petcock,and the diaphragm inside gets a hole or tear,it will suck excess fuel into the engine through the vacuum line.Have you checked for this?
Mary's bike is only about 5 yrs old. She doesn't have perforated diaphragms, cracked air or fuel hoses, etc. It's too new for that.
You'd be surprised at what will happen to a bike in 5 years.Parts can come from the factor with a defect just waiting to show itself.
Well, Flick has been babied that I can tell you. I bought him in '07 with 5,000 miles on it he was ridden by a woman seems like he's a ladies man I guess. When I got him I bought the 3 year warranty and maintainance plan. So, the last time the shop saw him was about six months ago a smidge over 2,000 miles since. I trust the guys at the dealership they've been nothing but awesome to me. I have the papers saying that everything has been checked to standards in the owner's manual. I did put new fuel hoses on him about a month ago because I managed to mangle the top of one when taking it off one day. Flick is never left out in the elements he is either in the garage or covered. Only time he is out is at work and haven't had rain in ages while I've been at work. The petcock is working fine. The carbs are synched with a real carb synching guage. I did notice though that another person that I ride with who has an 06' F is getting some of the same issues. He too is dying when making a quick stop at a red light. Also, when first getting started I'm getting a slight back fire. I'm not even sure back fire is the word I'm looking for because it is more like a putt-putt than a boom.
I've inspected the carbs and diaphraghms and everything is beautiful nothing looks worn or torn. I tested the TPS it too is within specs. Looked at the spark plugs they are good too bike is getting a spark. This will mainly be a question for Buddha because he sent me the rejet kit over a year ago and Flick ran fine after redoing the jet but I want to make sure. With the set up you gave me the fuel mixture screws is it two turns out or three. I had it at three but turned it to two today. I will test Flick tomorrow and see how he is.
I do not have the money to take is to a Pro. I'm barely surviving as it is and I can't afford to take it anywhere. My jerk of a roommate wante dto charge me to look at it. I told him that friend's look at friend's stuff for free. If he would have done that I probably would have given him money for it if he had helped but won't even think about it now esp since he failed his last class. My BF has been working on his bikes for over 20 years now and he's quite knowledgable but we are both getting frustrated.
Mary
what fuel are you using?
87 e10 or e15
have you tried 93 lately?
the new blendfuel is about 80k btu compared to gas @ 115k approx on both....this explains the 20% decrease in fuel econ for many vehicles
Typically 87 but about every 5 tanks will run 93 through it. RaceTrac gas is terrible. I typically use either Hess or Mobil gas. MPG has also decreased some. I only got 139 before hitting reserve I usually get 150.
I pulled the frame mounted petcock apart and found some fine dirt/rust in it. Drove me nuts trying to work out what was wrong with the carbs when this was the problem. Only worked this out when I came homw and found the airbox full of fuel :(
Given that you checked everything in the carbs - my guess is that you have a tight valve.
But that messing with stuff like idle screw makes me wonder if anything is wrong with it.
The thing is valve goign tight can creep up on you ... however it can creep up very rapidly if the temperature goes from hot to cold. Yes hot to cold as in summer into fall. Not the reverse ... so you may have had it wear faster than the temperature change. So these are my Q's for you - what was the first symptom of it doing this. Then as soon as it did that, did you ride it long distance in 1 run, but I guess dont even have to be that long of a distance, 50 miles could do it. Either way a tight valve has to be fixed and fast. The valve dissipates heat by sending ti into the head @ the seat, if you're open there you're not sending any heat away ... you'll burn it.
Cool.
Buddha.
I second the tight valve suggestion. Common symptoms are rough idle and backfires.
I'm beginning to suspect a Valve as well. I did the water squirt test and it seems the left is running hotter than the right. I've never done valves before the shop was supposed to take care of that on the last time I brought it in. 2200 miles ago. Since, I've never done this what tools will I need?
Mary
Quote from: Toogoofy317 on June 16, 2011, 05:34:33 PM
I'm beginning to suspect a Valve as well. I did the water squirt test and it seems the left is running hotter than the right. I've never done valves before the shop was supposed to take care of that on the last time I brought it in. 2200 miles ago. Since, I've never done this what tools will I need?
Mary
If it was a dealership that was supposed to do it then there is a high probability they didn't.
A Suzuki shim/valve tool will make it easier for you.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Motion-Pro-Valve-Shim-Tool-Suzuki-Yamaha-08-0017-/170533410356?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27b4955634
A 10mm, 12mm socket, a longish flat head screwdriver, pliers, metric feeler gauges, 6mm allen key. Kerry's valve adjustment vid tells you all you need to know.
I use one of those extending magnets to pull the shims out of their buckets.Don't turn the engine over with any shims removed,it will damage the cam lobes.
MARY have you found your problem yet.? im very curious but could have a suggestion once you have checked your valve clearence ..
was changing diaphram on carburettor today and noticed these wear marks on the slide infact on both slides this could be the cause of your hanging throttle ,in any case i have eased the area( marked) to a radius to prevent slide catching on sharp edge ,both carbs have it in the same place and same side ,in this instance the right side might have some thing to do with the flow.test road bike and no ill effects from this mod..
(http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/twinrat/IMG_0136.jpg) need this photo to
have tried to get photo from photobucket of carburettor body where slide catches but all i get is the slide photo 4 times ,just match the slide to the body and you will see what im on about .
Quote from: twinrat on September 24, 2011, 01:18:40 AM
have tried to get photo from photobucket of carburettor body where slide catches but all i get is the slide photo 4 times ,just match the slide to the body and you will see what im on about .
That's cause you keep putting the same photo code into the post. Bring up both images By Themselves - not within the PB window - and then choose the correct code. Also, feel free to edit your previous posts to remove extraneous images.
Michael
thanks michal but i dont know how to edit those pics ,ive taught my self to use a computor and theres a lot i dont know ..
Quote from: twinrat on September 24, 2011, 02:50:46 AM
thanks michal but i dont know how to edit those pics ,ive taught my self to use a computor and theres a lot i dont know ..
When you're on the PB page, put your mouse over the image you want, right click and select "open in new tab" or the equal to the browser you use. This will put the image's URL in the location bar of your browser. Copy that line of code and paste it in as you have done previously.
To edit your previous posts, click the Modify button at the bottom of that post.
I think some of these might be what you are after
http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/twinrat/IMG_0133.jpg
http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/twinrat/IMG_0134.jpg
http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/twinrat/IMG_0135.jpg
Michael
Thanks Michael those are the images i tried to put on the forum .i myself dont have a problem with carburation ,ive brought this observation of these wear marks to possibly help those who have hanging throttle.I think these carburettors have a tendency to wrack there slides .my slides had fine aluminum haze round the slide guide area .should have taken a photo of it ,so there is some resonance of the slides backwards and forwards in there slide grove.
Rod
Hey Rod,
Flick's slide didn't look like that. It was in the body itself and the grooves were very fine. Flick wouldn't start last night or today so he is sitting at work :sad: Looks like we will be grabbing a trailer tomorrow and carting to the BF's house I already have an appointment to drop the carbs off at the Motorcycle clinic on Friday. $75 and they will have it taken care of by the end of the day. At this point the price seems reasonable because the headaches and stress is too much right now. I'm practically working full-time and carrying full-time credit hours in school. So, not much time this next month and a half. I miss Flick being a pleasure not a PITA.
Mary