This write up pertains to the 1989-2000 GS500 Mikuni BST33SS carbs.These carbs are on various motorcycle makes and models.I am going to point out the various parts that we need to know.
Here are two good links to help understand our carbs better.
This link is really good at explaining things.Same carbs as ours just in a rack of four instead of two.Ours would be like the two center carbs.
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159718
This link explains what each circuit of the carb does and how to tune them.There is some false stuff on our forum and this should clear some of it up.
http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html
Here is the air filter side of the carbs.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/airfilterside-1.jpg)
Here is the top side.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/top-1.jpg)
Here is the engine side of the carbs.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/engineside-1.jpg)
Here is the bottom side.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/bottom2-1.jpg)
Here is the right side.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/rightside-1.jpg)
Here is the left side.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/leftside-1.jpg)
Now for what's on the inside.Starting at the top.
When the top of the carbs are opened up,be sure not to loose the vacuum port O ring.These things cause all kind of running issues.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/carbtopvacuumport-1.jpg)
The top.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/carbtop-1.jpg)
The top removed.Be very careful not to loose any of the parts
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/carbtopinternals-1.jpg)
Here is the slide needle laid out.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/needleassembly2.jpg)
The slide has been removed.You can see the slide guide and emulsion tube.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/carbtopinternals2-1.jpg)
The slide guide removed as an assembly.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/slideguide2.jpg)
The emulsion tube seperated from the slide guide.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/slideguide.jpg)
Please be aware of the seal.I can not find these any where and I have a set of carbs with bad seals.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/slideguide4.jpg)
Now for the bottom side.This is the area that gives the most grief,especially to new people working on the GS500.
Here it is with the float bowl removed.Note that the jets are missing from this set.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/carblowerinternals2.jpg)
Here is the float bowl.You can see the drain and drain screw better in this pic.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/carbbowl.jpg)
Here is the inside and this is where dirt and gunk settles.It's also where it gets sucked into the carbs,clogging them.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/carbbowlinside.jpg)
Float assembly has been removed.If the needle's seat O ring doesn't seal tight,it will flood the crank case with gas.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/floatneedleseat-1.jpg)
Float assembly.If that O ring or needle doesn't seal tight,it will cause running issues and flooding.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/floatandneedle2-1.jpg)
All those little passages need to be cleaned and blown out with compressed air.I used gunk brand brake cleaner on my carbs.
To use it,ever rubber part has to be removed from the carb.I didn't show the chokes being removed.They are rarely an issue and
usually a couple sprays with WD-40 will free them up.
Here is a link to the album with more pics of the carbs.This is my parts set.
http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/
Can you post this on the GS wiki page? :dunno_black:
Would be great to have it there permanently. Good job by the way :thumb:
Quote from: Twisted on June 08, 2011, 03:53:48 PM
Can you post this on the GS wiki page? :dunno_black:
Would be great to have it there permanently. Good job by the way :thumb:
Thanks and I am unsure about how I would do that.
Try this sticky - http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=46173.0 :thumb:
Don't know what section you would put it under though.
Quote from: Twisted on June 08, 2011, 04:00:21 PM
Try this sticky - http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=46173.0 :thumb:
Don't know what section you would put it under though.
Thanks.I may give it a try later.I will be busy for a while and it takes a while to move things over.
I need to add that the "Phillips" head screws are not "Phillips" head,they are "JIS" style screws and using a "Phillips" screw driver will result in the screws heads stripping.JIS screw drivers are available online and usually priced about the same as a quality screw driver.I use a hack saw and cut a slot in the screw heads and use a large flat end screw driver to remove them.Then I replace the screws with allen cap bolts.They are way easier to remove the next time the carbs need work.
crap good reminder about this thread, forgot to bookmark it when I first saw it. :thumb:
Good reminder...
Got one for the newer carbs? :D
Stuck. (past tense of stickied O0 ).
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on June 29, 2011, 07:25:38 AM
Stuck. (past tense of stickied O0 ).
Cool.
Buddha.
Thanks.
Quote from: xunedeinx on June 29, 2011, 07:20:50 AM
Good reminder...
Got one for the newer carbs? :D
Not yet.If I find a set or buy a bike with the newer carbs,I will def do a write up like this one.
this is the single greatest sticky ever known to man. thanks a bunch. :bowdown:
but where were you 3 months ago tho when the hayne's manual laughed at me with it's microscopic black and white thumbnails....
:dunno_white:
Quote from: motoDMD on June 29, 2011, 01:55:29 PM
this is the single greatest sticky ever known to man. thanks a bunch. :bowdown:
but where were you 3 months ago tho when the hayne's manual laughed at me with it's microscopic black and white thumbnails....
:dunno_white:
Thanks.I was getting my bike out and doing all my spring cleaning and tune up on it.I own and use the Clymer manual and it seems to be a little better IMO.I have used both.
Quote from: ben2go on June 29, 2011, 12:15:54 PM
Quote from: xunedeinx on June 29, 2011, 07:20:50 AM
Good reminder...
Got one for the newer carbs? :D
Not yet.If I find a set or buy a bike with the newer carbs,I will def do a write up like this one.
If you live near here, ill let you experiment on my bike for the benefit of gstwin!!!
Oh, and so I can learn firsthand..
Quote from: xunedeinx on June 29, 2011, 07:19:19 PM
Quote from: ben2go on June 29, 2011, 12:15:54 PM
Quote from: xunedeinx on June 29, 2011, 07:20:50 AM
Good reminder...
Got one for the newer carbs? :D
Not yet.If I find a set or buy a bike with the newer carbs,I will def do a write up like this one.
If you live near here, ill let you experiment on my bike for the benefit of gstwin!!!
Oh, and so I can learn firsthand..
We are a bit far apart.I'm in upstate SC.
Quote from: ben2go on June 08, 2011, 03:11:24 PM
There is some false stuff on our forum
You can say that again :thumb:
The son of a friend (about 20 years old) recently asked me to teach him some fundamental steps about how to clean / rejet motorcycle carburetors. He's studying auto repair at a local community college, and they don't cover anything about carburetion; if it isn't in the textbook, the students learn nothing about carbs at all. I told him to read through this thread a few times so he would become familiar with the basic components of our stone-axe simple GS500 carbs, and once he could answer my questions about carburetors without screwing up, we'd advance to Phase II of his training...
Now that he has a better understanding of what he'll be working on, I'm going to pull my GS carbs off next week to clean and rebuild them with him. OK, so they don't really need any service, but we'll do it a few times anyway... I'll let him knock himself out swapping jets and washers until he can do it blindfolded. I don't think he'll ever want to become a carb guru, but I think he'll be less likely to be afraid of working on them on in the future.
Thanks for this thread, ben2go; good photos and write-up... I've been working with motorcycle carbs for so many years that I've forgotten how confusing they can be to people just beginning to learn how to turn wrenches without stripping threads, overtorquing bolts, and ruining various components. Having good photos and descriptions make a tremendous difference in the learning process; let's hope he doesn't destroy my carbs before his training is complete...
You're welcome and happy it's helping.Good luck to you both.After a few times tearing apart carbs,it really wasn't a big deal to me.Maybe he will catch on quick and it won't be a big deal to him either.
Also give this to him to read.It will help. http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html
can someone tell me if the diaphragm is the same in the pictures above as the latter models????? .. they look the same to me but it might be jsut a little smaller you know........
reason im asking is because i have an 05 and just ordered new ones but they were made for the latter models, at least that's what the seller said... (ebay)
Also how do you adjust the floats exactly???? im so lost when it comes to that part! if anyone could help i would greatly appreciate it! also ill start a thread with a break down of the newer model carbs on here so it will be less confusing to newer members, i went through hell looking for info on my bike when i got it about a week ago due to the fact that the carbs do look different on my bike then all the post i have seen on here. but thanks to GStwin and their amazing members i was able to piece together enough info to make seance of it all lol, and now i can take this carb appart with no problems and also trouble shoot my bike like a pro!
Thank you and a thousand times thank you for insanely detail oriented write ups and in general great ppl in this forum!
(last thing can someone point me in the direction of a few good write ups on how to change out your chain on the gs) thanks!
i got pics for the newer models finally.. lol 02-09 GS500F
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j350/NorwayGT1/IMG_20110923_152316.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j350/NorwayGT1/IMG_20110923_152538.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j350/NorwayGT1/IMG_20110923_153433.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j350/NorwayGT1/IMG_20110923_153433.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j350/NorwayGT1/IMG_20110923_153517.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j350/NorwayGT1/IMG_20110923_153549.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j350/NorwayGT1/IMG_20110923_154156.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j350/NorwayGT1/IMG_20110923_160033.jpg)
Feel free to edit them and name all the parts and what not.. everything is almost the same as the pics in the beginning!
But there are a few differences!
In the last picture posted, there is a flat, circular brass cap with a tiny indentation in it's middle, located in a depression directly to the right of the mixture screw.
What is this cap, and what is under it?
Quote from: bombshelter13 on December 03, 2011, 04:00:16 PM
In the last picture posted, there is a flat, circular brass cap with a tiny indentation in it's middle, located in a depression directly to the right of the mixture screw.
What is this cap, and what is under it?
That is called a welsh plug and it blocks off unused carb circuits or ports.I do not have a clue what it would be used for with the plug removed.
Know what a core plug is?......similar thing and dependant on where in the world you are it can have one of several names.
Its purpose is to blank off and seal internal ports and galleries that have to be made when the carb body is machined......you cant drill holes from the inside out and you cant drill a large diameter blind hole at the bottom of a small diameter blind hole :dunno_black:
Its rare but they can leak and when they do it allows small amounts of air to be drawn in or bleed out where its not wanted, this in turn can cause all sorts of difficult to trace poor running problems. The tip is to paint clear nail varnish over the plugs which will form an airtight seal. :thumb:
interesting... so you are saying that painting over (sealing) those screws is something everyone should do or just for the ppl that are having issues with toughs?
I have seen it done on older carbs with success. Ones that were made decades ago in the rough and ready days before manufacturing techniques and tolerances reached the standards they are at today.
If you have an older carb thats seen some action or one that you suspect may be bleeding or drawing in air past a plug it certainly wouldnt do any harm to seal it. Its not as if its a difficult or expensive thing to do.
Anoither thing to consider..........Some people assume these plugs are there just to prevent tampering with adjustment screws etc, this is not always the case. :thumb:
I have a question about parts and their location. I posted it in the general section titled carbs and their parts location. I could use some input please.
The picture of the bottom of the new carbs - the float bowls are swapped. The drain screws should be on the outside so you can get at them easily. As shown below. (Oh, someone was asking where the mixture screw was - under the brass cap on each carb.)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Assorted/carbs-1.jpg)
Little bit of info that I found on the web while trying to find a compatible carb rebuild kit for my 01 GS 500..
Here are the different float valve part numbers from a certain parts website:
1989-2000:
13370-02D00 (replaces 13370-44B00)
2001-2002:
13370-33E80
2004-2006 (K4,K5,K6)
13370-04F00
anyone familiar with two hose nipples on the bottom of carbs near the bowls and what should be on those nipples right now i have a hose connecting the two. and where does the tank vent water drain rout too. one more thing is where does the top tee on the crabs rout to because i have no idea
The nipples on the bottom of the carbs are the drains.Nothing goes on them.
The tank cap recess drain has a hose that feeds down behind the engine below and behind the left peg bracket.
The top T on the carbs is the vent.It needs a hose routed up and over the carbs and comes out in the same place as the tank cap recess drain.
What ever you do,do not run any lines from the tank, or carbs, to the right side of the bike where the hot exhaust runs.
can some one help me or lead me in the right direction i cleaned my jets and carbs yesterday now she doesnt stay on ??? i checked all hoses and cable everything looks good i have the fuel line coming from pet chicken number to bottom of carb and the air line on top i did have a issue with the choke not closing but i took care of that it was the spring .. txs in advance
Nice thread!!!
hello guys do while cleaning out my carbs the 0 rings on the perimeter of float bowls were damaged i was wondering can i purchase neww from a hardware store or online any on know a good solution.
p.s the o rings still hold there round shape the width of the rings isn't consistent i.e skinny and fat
Quote from: w_amin1 on May 30, 2012, 02:16:24 AM
hello guys do while cleaning out my carbs the 0 rings on the perimeter of float bowls were damaged i was wondering can i purchase neww from a hardware store or online any on know a good solution.
p.s the o rings still hold there round shape the width of the rings isn't consistent i.e skinny and fat
(http://www.partsnmore.com/images/parts/480/20-6042.jpg)
These need to be replaced with the specific part.O rings can be had from the hardware store, just make sure they are compatible with gas and ethanol.Viton are what the factory uses from my understanding.
Hi im new to the GS world of street biking or any street biking for that matter, but I currently came uppon a 1999 Gs500e, with about 26k for miles.... I bought the bike for $150 and im in the process of getting it running..It sat on the side of the the orginal owners house for close to 5 years..My question is since Im completly taking the carbs apart and in the process of puting new seals an replacing gummed up or nogood parts... if the oring on the float needle seat doesn't hold the seat in tighly I will have problems with carb flooding or the motor runing?....Thanks for any answers :)
Quote from: red rider on July 02, 2012, 01:22:24 PM
Hi im new to the GS world of street biking or any street biking for that matter, but I currently came uppon a 1999 Gs500e, with about 26k for miles.... I bought the bike for $150 and im in the process of getting it running..It sat on the side of the the orginal owners house for close to 5 years..My question is since Im completly taking the carbs apart and in the process of puting new seals an replacing gummed up or nogood parts... if the oring on the float needle seat doesn't hold the seat in tighly I will have problems with carb flooding or the motor runing?....Thanks for any answers :)
Yes the carbs will flood if the seat O rings are not sealed tightly.
So, for the 89-2000 carbs, this is the best I can come up with for replacement o-rings, having measured the first two directly, and measured new replacements for the other two. The dealership is charging lots of bones for putting them one per glassine envelope and slapping a Suzuki Genuine Parts sticker on there. Viton from McMaster is the same price for 25 as for one or two of the stealership's. Viton is more dependable with today's gasoline than buna-n. Don't use "unknown hardware store rubber" - it may melt in gasoline. You need one per carb of each, or two each. Float cover gaskets you need to get from a dealer - ronayers.com seems to the best price online at present.
Sizes are Thickness, IDxOD
The pilot screw (tiniest) 1mm - 3x5mm
Top cover tiny o-rings 1mm - 4x6mm
The float seat o-ring (measuring a new SGP replacement) appears to be 1.5mm - 7.5x10.5mm
The needle valve oring (the one on the float itself) may really be an oddball, (measuring a new SGP replacement.)
Or it may be an 008 (1/16 - 3/16x5/16 inch size) Certainly very close, and possibly close enough.
A different thread claimed that the o-ring on the white slide part which Haynes says not to take out is 1-10x12mm, should be square-section, but they got away with round section. I left it in place as per Haynes.
Top cover screws are M5 x 16mm
Float bowl screws are M5 x 12mm (beware later carbs MAY use different sized screws)
Get 4 of each in a socket head cap screw (stainless is nice, but anti-sieze on steel also works) after you remove the JIS (not Phillips) head originals, whcih are soft and terrible and prone to strip out, especially if you use a Phillips driver on them. Your toolkit screwdrivers should be JIS if you have your toolkit. After they are stripped, you may be able to cut a slot and use a flathead, or grab the head with vise-grips and remove them. You don't want to use the originals again.
This thread is seriously helpful in getting my bike tuned up right. The thing I'm wondering because I can't see it in the picture is about the head on the mixture screws. Are they flat head, phillips, hex? I'm trying to see if I can turn them without taking the carb off yet again
Quote from: mustangGT90210 on August 04, 2012, 08:37:22 PM
This thread is seriously helpful in getting my bike tuned up right. The thing I'm wondering because I can't see it in the picture is about the head on the mixture screws. Are they flat head, phillips, hex? I'm trying to see if I can turn them without taking the carb off yet again
They should be flathead.Make sure the covers have been removed.You may already know this.
While we are on the subject of mixture screws.I have found that the DR125SE, 200SE, DR250/350,AND DR650S/SE use the same mixture screws that the 89-00 GS500E usues.So that means we can run the Kientech extended mixture screws.You will need to order two as the bikes the are listed for are single cylinder single carb bikes.They are $15 each or $30 for a pair.
http://www.kientech.com/ExtendedFuelScrews.htm
(http://www.kientech.com/DR650CarbBowlScew_files/image001.jpg)
Quote from: ben2go on August 04, 2012, 09:22:11 PM
Quote from: mustangGT90210 on August 04, 2012, 08:37:22 PM
This thread is seriously helpful in getting my bike tuned up right. The thing I'm wondering because I can't see it in the picture is about the head on the mixture screws. Are they flat head, phillips, hex? I'm trying to see if I can turn them without taking the carb off yet again
They should be flathead.Make sure the covers have been removed.You may already know this.
While we are on the subject of mixture screws.I have found that the DR125SE, 200SE, DR250/350,AND DR650S/SE use the same mixture screws that the 89-00 GS500E usues.So that means we can run the Kientech extended mixture screws.You will need to order two as the bikes the are listed for are single cylinder single carb bikes.They are $15 each or $30 for a pair.
http://www.kientech.com/ExtendedFuelScrews.htm
(http://www.kientech.com/DR650CarbBowlScew_files/image001.jpg)
I'm definately going to have to check out those extended ones. If the covers have not been removed, how does one go about taking them off? Pop them out, jab at them, go inside the carb? I'm trying so hard not to take the bike apart again
Quote from: mustangGT90210 on August 04, 2012, 09:29:46 PM
Quote from: ben2go on August 04, 2012, 09:22:11 PM
Quote from: mustangGT90210 on August 04, 2012, 08:37:22 PM
This thread is seriously helpful in getting my bike tuned up right. The thing I'm wondering because I can't see it in the picture is about the head on the mixture screws. Are they flat head, phillips, hex? I'm trying to see if I can turn them without taking the carb off yet again
They should be flathead.Make sure the covers have been removed.You may already know this.
While we are on the subject of mixture screws.I have found that the DR125SE, 200SE, DR250/350,AND DR650S/SE use the same mixture screws that the 89-00 GS500E usues.So that means we can run the Kientech extended mixture screws.You will need to order two as the bikes the are listed for are single cylinder single carb bikes.They are $15 each or $30 for a pair.
http://www.kientech.com/ExtendedFuelScrews.htm
(http://www.kientech.com/DR650CarbBowlScew_files/image001.jpg)
I'm definately going to have to check out those extended ones. If the covers have not been removed, how does one go about taking them off? Pop them out, jab at them, go inside the carb? I'm trying so hard not to take the bike apart again
You very gently and carefully drill a small hole in the center of the caps.Then thread a small screw into the hole about 1/16th of an inch.Last,take a pair of pliers and work the screw back and forth while pulling.This should pop the caps right out.If you drill to far,you will hit the mixture screws underneath the caps.
I hope they've been messed with before then! The carbs have been rebuilt before I bought the bike so it would make sense to have already been tuned, right? Hope so.
Thanks for the help :bowdown: Hopefully my next posts on here can be about how my bike is running great, instead of leaking gas, fix that and now I get a hang up in the throttle when revving and letting it come down and shooting black smoke out the pipe!
Quote from: mustangGT90210 on August 04, 2012, 09:45:47 PM
I hope they've been messed with before then! The carbs have been rebuilt before I bought the bike so it would make sense to have already been tuned, right? Hope so.It is highly possible that the caps have been removed.Grab a small mirror and look under the carbs.You will either see the screws or the caps.
Thanks for the help :bowdown: Hopefully my next posts on here can be about how my bike is running great, instead of leaking gas, fix that and now I get a hang up in the throttle when revving and letting it come down and shooting black smoke out the pipe!Good luck.Take your time and clean the carbs really good.When you think you have them clean,clean them some more.
I am going to quote factory pro on how to tune our type carbs.
Quote from: Marc W. SalvisbergFollow steps in order....First, dial in:
1. Top end (full throttle / 7.5k to redline -
Best Main Jet must be selected before starting step 2 (needle height)!
Select Best Main Jet
To get the best, most even top end power (full throttle/after 7500 rpm), select the main jet that produces the hardest pull at high rpm.
If the bike pulls harder at high rpm when cold and less hard when fully warmed up, the main jet is too large. Install a smaller main jet and retest until you find the main jet that pulls the hardest at high rpm when fully warmed up. This must be done first - before moving on to the other tuning ranges.
If the bike doesn't pull well at high rpm when cold and gets only slightly better when fully warmed up, the main jet is too small.
In order to properly tune the midrange and low rpm carburetion, THE MAIN JET MUST FIRST BE PROPERLY SELECTED after 10 to 15 minutes of hard use!
Do not pay too much attention to the low-end richness when you are changing main jets - you still need to be using the main jets that produce the best power at high rpm. You will deal with the low-end / cruise later - after step 2.
2. Midrange (full throttle /5k-7k)
Step 1 (Best Main Jet) must be selected before starting step 2!
Select best needle clip position
To get the best power at full throttle / 5k-7k rpm, adjust the needle height, after you have already selected the best main jet.
If the engine pulls better or is smoother at full throttle/5k-7k in a full throttle roll-on starting at <3k when cool but soft and/or rough when at full operating temperature, it is too rich in the midrange and the needle should be lowered.
If the engine pulls better when fully warmed up but still not great between 5k-7k, try raising the needle to richen 5k-7k.
If the engine pulls equally well between 5k-7k when cooler as compared to fully warmed up, the needle height is probably properly set.
Do not pay too much attention to the low-end richness when you are changing needle clip positions - you still need to be using the clip position that produces the best full throttle / 5k-7k power in conjunction with the main jets (Step 1) that produce the best power at high rpm. You will deal with the low-end / cruise next.
3. Low end (full throttle / 2k-3k)
Step 1 (Best Main Jet) and Step 2 (needle height) must be selected before starting step 3!
Float height (AKA fuel level & how to..)
To get best low-end power, set float height (fuel level) so that the engine will accept full throttle, without missing or stumbling, in 2nd gear from 2.5k to 3k rpm at minimum.
Float heights, unless otherwise specified in the installation guide, are measured from the "gasket surface" of the carb body to the highest part of the top of the float - with the float tang touching but not compressing the float valve spring.
If the engine has a "wet" rhythmic, soggy area at full throttle / 3k-4k rpm, that gets worse as the engine heats up, lower the fuel level by resetting the float height 1mm greater (if the original was 13mm - go to 14mm). This will lower the fuel level, making full throttle / 2k-3k rpm leaner.
If the engine is "dry" and flat between 2k to 3k rpm, raise the fuel level.
Example: change float height from 15mm to 14mm to richen up that area.
REMEMBER, since the main jet WILL affect low speed operation, the MAIN JET has to be within 1 or 2 sizes of correct before final float setting.
Warning: If the engine is left with the fuel level too high,, the engine may foul plugs on the street and will be "soft" and boggy at part throttle operation. Adjust Floats to raise/ lower the Fuel Level.
Base settings are usually given if a particular application has a history of fuel level criticalness. The Fuel level height in the float bowl affects full throttle/low rpm and, also, richness or leanness at cruise/low rpm.
Reference: a bike that runs cleanly at small throttle openings when cold, but starts to show signs of richness as it heats up to full operating temperature, will usually be leaned out enough to be correct if the fuel level is LOWERED 1mm. Check out and RESET all: Suzuki (all), Yamaha (all) and Kawasaki (if low speed problems occur). Needless to say, FUEL LEVEL IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!!!
If there are low-end richness problems, even after lowering the fuel level much more than 1.5mm from our initial settings, check for needle wear and needle jet (part of the emulsion tube). See Worn Needle and Worn Needle Jet diagram. It is VERY common for the brass needle jets (in the top of the "emulsion tube") in 36mm, 38mm and 40mm Mikuni CV carbs to wear out in as little as 5,000 miles. Check them for "oblong" wear - the needle jet orifice starts out round! Factory Pro produces stock replacement needle jets / emulsion tubes for 36mm and 38mm Mikuni carbs. Click here
4. Idle and low rpm cruise
Fuel Screw setting (AKA mixture screws)
There is usually a machined brass or aluminum cap over the fuel screws on all but newer Honda. It's about the diameter of a pencil. Cap removal details. Newer Honda carbs have no caps, but use a special "D" shaped driver, usually supplied in the carb recal kit. We do have them available separately, too. 800 869-0497 to order -
Set for smoothest idle and 2nd gear, 4k rpm, steady state cruise operation. Set mixture screws at recommended settings, as a starting point. For smoothest idle, 2nd gear 4000 rpm steady state cruise , and 1/8 throttle high rpm operation. (pj tuning information)
Pilot fuel mixture screw settings, float level (but, you've "fixed" the fuel level in Step 3 - which you have already done!) AND pilot jet size are the primary sources of mixture delivery during 4000 rpm steady state cruise operation.
If lean surging is encountered, richen mixture screws (turn out) in 1/2 turn increments. Alternative pilot jets are supplied when normally required.
Pilot fuel mixture screw settings, float level and pilot jet size also affect high-rpm, 0 to 1/8 throttle maneuvers. Too lean, will cause surging problems when the engine is operated at high rpm at small throttle openings! Opening the mixture screws and/or increasing pilot jet size will usually cure the problem.
NOTE: A rich problem gets worse as the engine heats up.
If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm drops below the set idle speed, then rises up to the set idle speed, the low speed mixture screws are probably set too rich: try 1/2 turn in, to lean the idle mixture.
NOTE: A lean problem gets better as the engine heats up.
If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm "hangs up" before dropping to the set idle speed, and there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm, the mixture screws are probably too lean: try 1/2 turn out, to richen mixture. Be sure there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm!
Carb Kit Design is a combination of science, art, intuition and and at times, a fair dose of wizardry. There is no dyno that "tells" one how to assemble or modify the carb to deliver proper power and response.
Perfect Carb Kit TUNING requires patience and perseverance and "reasonable" feel to feel the changes - of which - most motorcycle riders have a good ability to do.
When a dyno "operator" says he/she has to ride the bike after dyno tuning to do the final tune for cruise smoothness - that's what they are doing. Avoid any dyno operator who says that they don't have to do that!!!
The only dyno that I know of that will duplicate and visually display the engine smoothness is the EC997 dyno (yes, I know, we make it) - that's one reason why, if you can, you'd like to use one for tuning - a smoother engine IS getting the best mixture. Other dynos claim to "tune to an "A/F Ratio" - probably the biggest marketing scheme in the dyno industry at this time - and they never can equal the quality of tune as designed -
These tuning kits have been thoroughly tested to ensure easy, trouble-free, optimized performance.
Please note: If you have installed the kit and gone through the optional screw settings, clip positions and main jets, and still have a persistent flat spot/problem, we ask you to call us. Unique engine / exhaust / filter / altitude / temperature combinations may require individualized setups. We are here to help. The information gained to your solution will be installed in our computerized reference database. PLEASE CALL!
We ask that upon completion of installation and tuning, that you call us with specifications of your installation, (pipe brand, filters, advancer, altitude, humidity, temperature and final carb settings) to be entered in our TUNING DATABASE. The database allows us to include the "most used" jet sizes and setup specifications in every kit.
Use (415) 491-5920, (800) 869-0497 or fax (415) 492-8803.
Thanks!
Marc W. Salvisberg
This post helped me out so much!! Thank you!
Quote from: Jeremyfuhst12 on August 06, 2012, 10:13:59 AM
This post helped me out so much!! Thank you!
You're welcome.
I've spent all last year trying different jets and enrichment needle positions (when I found time seeing as I use my bike to get to work). My bike has been lean right from when I bought it and I've been trying to find a solution.
Then I came on here and saw the vacuum port o-ring...something I've never seen before. Thank you for that photo. The previous owner must've lost it without noticing (there're signs the carbs had been opened before I got it) First thing tomorrow I'm going to call my local Suzuki dealer and get them to order some in for me and then proceed to undo all my changes to alleviate its leanness. I can't wait!
I have a lot of experience with carburetors dating back to my 1937 Ford 5 window coupe (sold a long time ago). My recently purchased 94 GS500E needed a little love carb wise, so I took the easy route and pulled the tank and the tops off the carbs. Everything looked nice and clean. I attempted to pull the slide guides out from the top but decided to not mess with them for now. The left side slide spring was broken in two pieces, so I ordered up two of them, which should be here later this week. I feel confident that that should make the bike run very nice without and further work, but only time will tell.
Thanks to the information in this thread I have a head start in any diagnosis and repairs that may be necessary in the future.
regards
Mech
Quote from: Old Mechanic on June 18, 2013, 07:13:59 AM
I have a lot of experience with carburetors dating back to my 1937 Ford 5 window coupe (sold a long time ago). My recently purchased 94 GS500E needed a little love carb wise, so I took the easy route and pulled the tank and the tops off the carbs. Everything looked nice and clean. I attempted to pull the slide guides out from the top but decided to not mess with them for now. The left side slide spring was broken in two pieces, so I ordered up two of them, which should be here later this week. I feel confident that that should make the bike run very nice without and further work, but only time will tell.
Thanks to the information in this thread I have a head start in any diagnosis and repairs that may be necessary in the future.
regards
Mech
You're welcome.Glad it helped.
On the right side the small vacuum orfice o-ring stayed in place. The left side stuck to the cover and fell off when I took it to my parts container. Thankfully I saw it hit the floor and put it back in place. It would have been one of those situations where you fix one problem and create (grrrrrrr) another! Due to this thread I was aware of the importance of those little suckers and should avoid the "fixed one thing created another" scenario, which can drive even the most experienced to total frustration.
Thanks again for making me aware of those little "traps" that make this a bigger pain than they need to be.
regards
Mech
Quote from: Old Mechanic on June 18, 2013, 07:25:33 AM
On the right side the small vacuum orfice o-ring stayed in place. The left side stuck to the cover and fell off when I took it to my parts container. Thankfully I saw it hit the floor and put it back in place. It would have been one of those situations where you fix one problem and create (grrrrrrr) another! Due to this thread I was aware of the importance of those little suckers and should avoid the "fixed one thing created another" scenario, which can drive even the most experienced to total frustration.
Thanks again for making me aware of those little "traps" that make this a bigger pain than they need to be.
regards
Mech
Those things are a pain.I have had them slip out while putting the carbs back together and cause all kinds of problems before I found it.
Ben or any one on the post... do you know what the carburetor part part is called that is best described as follows.. an inch and a half copper u shaped tubing that extended vertically on the throttle side ( right) from the vacuum tube area from the top chamber to lower chamber...
picture attached from your initial string
If the part broke off, and part of the tube is in the carburetor housing, any suggestions to pull out? 9 I was thinking small threaded screw or nail head.... I can't find the part in Suzuki Schematics and I need to order the part or modify with metal tubing.
Thank You
[attachment deleted by admin]
The copper tube isn't a replacement item.You will need a new carb body or another set of carbs.
got it....thanks for the info... i think I can drill out the remnants and modify with some tubing if that is the case... looks like a 3/32 drill bit might fit... I see the top part of the tubing works with the choke lever.. I'll just have to find small diameter metal tubing and bend it in the shape
I am unable to find the thread at the moment, but... there was another member a few months ago that had broken that part as well. His was broken in half and all of the break was outside of the carb, he was successfully able to JB weld it back together and did not experience further problems with it. I am not suggesting fixing it this way or any certain way... I am only saying that his example led me to believe it isn't an incredibly sensitive part, but it does have to be there and functional. I believe this tube is actually internal on the newer carbs, to save others from your current woes I'd imagine, and among other reason I'm sure too.
- Bboy
Be ware of the internal diameter.If it is restricted,it will cause running issues.
Thanks to both replies... so when you say restricted, not any smaller than the size of the current tube... I think I figured away to recreate the 2 inch long pipe at i wider OD ( and a wider ID) I can drill it out from 3/32 to 5/32 ( closest standard to metric) and hopefully insert the 5/32 copper tubing in each size... the top part choke mechanism would still slide in the tube.... does the tube mix gasoline or air? with the top being in the chock lever and the bottom being near the top of the float, its unclear
Yes.The inside should be the same diameter and smooth.The tube sends vacuum to the top of the slide diaphragm and vacuum port for sync/balancing the carbs.
Quote from: ben2go on August 01, 2013, 04:55:26 PM
Yes.The inside should be the same diameter and smooth.The tube sends vacuum to the top of the slide diaphragm and vacuum port for sync/balancing the carbs.
Not for the vacuum port according to the manual. It is a "starter tube": http://www.familyjones.org/paul/Enrichment%20tube.pdf
They are tied together on my carbs.I'll have to check on it, if I ever work on a GS again.
thanks... so if its an element of the carburetor dedicated to the starting ( explains why its tied into the choke) I might get lucky if one of the tubes is a 1/16th of an inch larger than the other original one that is STILL intact... if I drill it out to 5/32 and bend brass tubing to replace it... (the original part is flared and stepped down)
(I accidentally broke it after almost completing a complete engine swap on my 1990 Suzuki that I've owed for 23 years ( replaced a 1996 engine))
I made the tube out of 5/32 brass tubing, then drilled out the casing (just enough) to that OD and JB welded...see atatched...Choke opened smoothly... it started right up... I broke the pipe during an engine swap with a 1996 engine ( installed on my 1990) .... I had to adjust the idle a little richer, but it might just a few miles to get the carb and engine to level out...thanks to all replies for the help
[attachment deleted by admin]
almost three years later...
i'm glad this is a sticky! :)
thanks for posting.
:thumb:
Anyone know where to order this part ? Or what's the dimensions so I can search
[attachment deleted by admin]
I bought a kit with various O rings from Harbor Freight and put one in that fit.
If I have questions about my carbs can I post it here or should I start a new thread? I mainly want to post a video or two of my engine idling because I've gotten comments on it not running optimally...
Quote from: Mock on May 30, 2014, 06:10:10 AM
If I have questions about my carbs can I post it here or should I start a new thread? I mainly want to post a video or two of my engine idling because I've gotten comments on it not running optimally...
My preference would be to see your new request in a new thread, but I'm not a mod so my thoughts basically mean nothing.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Mock on May 30, 2014, 06:10:10 AM
If I have questions about my carbs can I post it here or should I start a new thread? I mainly want to post a video or two of my engine idling because I've gotten comments on it not running optimally...
You would get more views and advice in your own thread.
Quote from: NorwayGT1 on October 06, 2011, 02:19:06 PM
i got pics for the newer models finally.. lol 02-09 GS500F
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j350/NorwayGT1/IMG_20110923_152316.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j350/NorwayGT1/IMG_20110923_152538.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j350/NorwayGT1/IMG_20110923_153433.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j350/NorwayGT1/IMG_20110923_153433.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j350/NorwayGT1/IMG_20110923_153517.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j350/NorwayGT1/IMG_20110923_153549.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j350/NorwayGT1/IMG_20110923_154156.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j350/NorwayGT1/IMG_20110923_160033.jpg)
Feel free to edit them and name all the parts and what not.. everything is almost the same as the pics in the beginning!
But there are a few differences!
I have an 05 with this style carbs. When I pulled the Diaphragm caps off there were no little o rings, but when I look up the parts it does not show an o-ring.
I went to my Local Indy Guy and he said the same thing, that it parts Fiche does not show an o-ring.
Does anyone know if there is supposed to be an o-ring?
Quote from: sergbutton on June 10, 2014, 08:20:21 AM
I have an 05 with this style carbs. When I pulled the Diaphragm caps off there were no little o rings, but when I look up the parts it does not show an o-ring.
I went to my Local Indy Guy and he said the same thing, that it parts Fiche does not show an o-ring.
Does anyone know if there is supposed to be an o-ring?
No.Your diaphrams seals the top of the carbs.There are no vacuum ports located out side the diaphrams that require sealing.
Guys Im at a total loss. the type or modle carbs as shown in the pic. are what I have mikuni 01ds t3z4 .being a old moto x er I though I knew a little about carbs.I DONT. bought a
suzuki gs 500 f not running said it had fuel leaks problem was had a hose between the vents and it was flooding fixed that. cleaned the carbs went through evething . added extenions to the air screws so I could adjust them.got the bike to start would not idle.I read some differnt jets changes.what is the right jets for this bike.it has those vaccum pods on the diapham it would run with vaccum hooked to them or not hooked do I need that extra throttle positioner
Had the carbs apart to many times im almost ready to go bask to my two strokes need some help >bill
Quote from: bill gise on February 05, 2015, 05:09:26 PM
Guys Im at a total loss. the type or modle carbs as shown in the pic. are what I have mikuni 01ds t3z4 .being a old moto x er I though I knew a little about carbs.I DONT. bought a
suzuki gs 500 f not running said it had fuel leaks problem was had a hose between the vents and it was flooding fixed that. cleaned the carbs went through evething . added extenions to the air screws so I could adjust them.got the bike to start would not idle.I read some differnt jets changes.what is the right jets for this bike.it has those vaccum pods on the diapham it would run with vaccum hooked to them or not hooked do I need that extra throttle positioner
Had the carbs apart to many times im almost ready to go bask to my two strokes need some help >bill
Check the valve clearances.I had a GS that ran crazy and wouldn't idle.It turned out to be tight valves.The bike should run with the vacuum port plugged and the fuel valve set to prime.Make sure the fuel levels are set per service manual specs.Also check and make sure the 2 little O rings are in the top of the carbs under the vacuum ports.Here is the wiki on carbs. http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Upgrades.Rejetting
will check valves today on post from serghotton reply#70 june 10 2014 in the pic tures the 6th from the top are the type of carbs. I have.no O rings on diaphrams on top. the little dish pots on top are what im trying to find out do whey have to have a vaccum line to then or just open the bike will run either way. thanks Bill
Quote from: bill gise on February 06, 2015, 05:31:15 AM
will check valves today on post from serghotton reply#70 june 10 2014 in the pic tures the 6th from the top are the type of carbs. I have.no O rings on diaphrams on top. the little dish pots on top are what im trying to find out do whey have to have a vaccum line to then or just open the bike will run either way. thanks Bill
This is how they should look for the bike to run properly.
(http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=56601.0;attach=2059;image)
Hello I've just bought a GS 500 1992 for $100 now I've got a hovering idle issue when you rev the bike it is slow to return to idle and hovers at 2k sometimes it revs up itself I've put a jet kit in it checked the compression valve clearances one intake valve is a bit loose the compression came back one pot was 141psi the other was 142 so no problem there I checked fuel chicken not a fan of the fuel chicken system I've synchronized the carbys I've sprayed the intake manifolds with start ya bastard when I spray the butterfly circlip the revs increase so I wound the idle up to 4k as there will be more vacuum at higher revs and it increased 500rpm so I'm thinking its an issue with air getting sucked in in front of the butterfly's has anyone else had this issue or knows if you can get the parts I'm guessing they are nylun bushes or something its just the image in the clymer owners manual doesn't name or number the butterfly bushes and I couldn't find anything in the book help this Aussie digger out
Quote from: Alex carey666 on June 28, 2015, 02:16:08 AM
Hello I've just bought a GS 500 1992 for $100 now I've got a hovering idle issue when you rev the bike it is slow to return to idle and hovers at 2k sometimes it revs up itself I've put a jet kit in it checked the compression valve clearances one intake valve is a bit loose the compression came back one pot was 141psi the other was 142 so no problem there I checked fuel chicken not a fan of the fuel chicken system I've synchronized the carbys I've sprayed the intake manifolds with start ya bastard when I spray the butterfly circlip the revs increase so I wound the idle up to 4k as there will be more vacuum at higher revs and it increased 500rpm so I'm thinking its an issue with air getting sucked in in front of the butterfly's has anyone else had this issue or knows if you can get the parts I'm guessing they are nylun bushes or something its just the image in the clymer owners manual doesn't name or number the butterfly bushes and I couldn't find anything in the book help this Aussie digger out
On the early style carbs,once the throttle shaft bushings start to leak air,replacement is the cheapest option.There are no busking kits.The bushings are brass and they are honed to fit the throttle shaft.Hovering idle in caused by a lean condition.The throttle shaft leak could be it.Low float levels could be another area to check.You maybe able to make the carbs run better and not have to replace/repair them.
Hi guys,
I'm new to the forum. Name is Frank and I live in Ireland. I have a restriction question for the board. I have a factory restricted GS500 (2002) and am lead to believe it is restricted via the carb slides/pistons. I removed the slides today and there a hole going through the slide as well as 2 holes in the bottom of each slide. Tried to add pictures but they were too large.
I am just looking for some advice as to whether they are the restricted slides or not and if "full power" slides can be obtained.
Any help would be gratefully appreciated :-)
Thanks in advance!
Quote from: frank345 on July 18, 2015, 09:42:20 AM
Hi guys,
I'm new to the forum. Name is Frank and I live in Ireland. I have a restriction question for the board. I have a factory restricted GS500 (2002) and am lead to believe it is restricted via the carb slides/pistons. I removed the slides today and there a hole going through the slide as well as 2 holes in the bottom of each slide. Tried to add pictures but they were too large.
I am just looking for some advice as to whether they are the restricted slides or not and if "full power" slides can be obtained.
Any help would be gratefully appreciated :-)
Thanks in advance!
Welcome Frank.I would ask this in the General Discussion section where more people will see it.Here in the US,we don't have restricted bikes.I wish i could be of more help,but all of my GS5's are older with the older style two jet cabs.
Hi Ben,
Many thanks for the reply!
Frank
I'm confused. I saw pics of 02 GS500 carbs and confirmed on the parts diagram that my bike is missing the hose running between the carbs. What is this?
(http://s29.postimg.org/gzbf2v2vr/02carb2.jpg)
(http://s15.postimg.org/er155t8dn/02carb.jpg)
If I'm not mistaken,it helps balance the vacuum between the carbs.I have seen them plugged off.I don't deal with the new style carbs.
Nice guide. I was able to use it for the fuel and vent inlet on the carb (had them mixed up, will it do any damages?).
I couldn't find this part though; any ideas on how it goes on the carburetor?
(https://i.imgsafe.org/1fdc4ee.png)
:bowdown: Thanks for this excellent post. I have referenced this thread several times over the past few years.
Quote from: ben2go on June 08, 2011, 03:12:19 PM
Please be aware of the seal.I can not find these any where and I have a set of carbs with bad seals.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/slideguide4.jpg)
I think I finally found the original part no. for this o-ring. I realize any fuel proof rubber o-ring that fits is probably fine, but I'll leave this here for any other slightly OCD individuals.
13278-47090
It's not on any parts diagram of the gs but it is mentioned on this page: http://www.litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Suzuki_GS500.html (http://www.litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Suzuki_GS500.html)
Quote from: Ajun267 on May 01, 2016, 08:15:28 PM
Nice guide. I was able to use it for the fuel and vent inlet on the carb (had them mixed up, will it do any damages?).
I couldn't find this part though; any ideas on how it goes on the carburetor?
(https://i.imgsafe.org/1fdc4ee.png)
Got a chance to take a video of those lift valves and how they work. Should give you an idea how to put them back together! (The white and silver portions and just spring locators, essentially.)
Sweet, thanks! Luckily I guessed and put them back the way they were originally.
Adding some pictures I took while cleaning and rebuilding the carbs from my 2007 GS500F. These carbs will be exactly the same as 2008-2009 and basically the same as 2004-2006, though without the PAIR (2nd Air) system, unless the 2004-2006 is a California model.
Vacuum port for balancing carbs on left intake: (I replaced this due to the cracking you can see in the pic)
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w465/jdoorn14/GS500/EE4518B5-365E-4C44-B902-4657EB549C36_zpsxt00bfm3.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/jdoorn14/media/GS500/EE4518B5-365E-4C44-B902-4657EB549C36_zpsxt00bfm3.jpg.html)
After removing the upper carb cover from the left carb. Intake is to the bottom of the pic: (Note: no o-ring here as in earlier carb models)
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w465/jdoorn14/GS500/A71B4EFC-F114-4613-A44D-9979388CE0A3_zpsuqnpp2q1.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/jdoorn14/media/GS500/A71B4EFC-F114-4613-A44D-9979388CE0A3_zpsuqnpp2q1.jpg.html)
Interior of upper left carb after removing diaphragm and needle assembly: (Note: the slide guide appears to be a separate piece, but does not appear to be removeable to me, nor was there a reason to remove it.)
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w465/jdoorn14/GS500/A3459666-43B3-4C5E-8ED5-675F9EE4AFB7_zpslhovzw3l.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/jdoorn14/media/GS500/A3459666-43B3-4C5E-8ED5-675F9EE4AFB7_zpslhovzw3l.jpg.html)
Detail of pieces that make up the needle: (Beware when pulling the needle assembly from the diaphragm/slide--this spring is not necessarily snug and may fly away)
Holder, o-ring, spring:
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w465/jdoorn14/GS500/BE55374B-78AD-4F94-BB02-4141BE8E9116_zpswyxwaksl.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/jdoorn14/media/GS500/BE55374B-78AD-4F94-BB02-4141BE8E9116_zpswyxwaksl.jpg.html)
Needle, with e-clip, washer and plastic ring:
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w465/jdoorn14/GS500/62462320-5E13-462B-B628-A60C57380A8D_zpsmgue2hmi.jpg) (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/jdoorn14/media/GS500/62462320-5E13-462B-B628-A60C57380A8D_zpsmgue2hmi.jpg.html)
I hope it is okay to respond to this sticky even though it has no comments for a long time.
May I please use the photos found here to create a powerpoint guide?
I have a fully broken down set of 04-13 carbs that I took a ton of pictures of, measured all the screws for acquiring replacement stainless allen screws, and would like to create a side-by-side guide with the carburetors from 89-00
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the 01-03 are built the same as the 04+ carbs save some aesthetic differences on the outside and no throttle position sensor (also some vacuum hose differences as a result?)
Anyway, once done I'd like to post it up for sharing or find Bikecliff from the GSR forum to host the PPT on his website.
I need permission to use these photos though if it's okay.
Boba
Hi,
I've got a capped off tube on the left carb of my 1995 GS500. I haven't seen it on any other pictures. Does anyone know what it's for?
(http://i.imgur.com/VjBDeG9.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/8t3gDWK.jpg)
Quote from: mihkels on February 19, 2017, 12:51:13 PM
Hi,
I've got a capped off tube on the left carb of my 1995 GS500. I haven't seen it on any other pictures. Does anyone know what it's for?
(http://i.imgur.com/VjBDeG9.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/8t3gDWK.jpg)
its for vacuum
Is there a trick to getting a hose on the TOP VENT of the carbs? I have been trying like hell to get the hose back on and since the vest is rubber I am not able to secure it fully. I am very new so please be kind if this is a dumb question lol.
Quote from: crawlingforward on June 14, 2016, 01:30:58 PM
Got a chance to take a video of those lift valves and how they work. Should give you an idea how to put them back together! (The white and silver portions and just spring locators, essentially.)
THANK YOU THANK YOU
I've been wondering what the spaghetti mess of supposedly vacuum lines were on the top of my carb, but I couldn't get a straight answer what they did (short of "emissions something something") and whether they could just be capped off.
Posts like these are gold.
OK Photobucket... you SUCK !!!! :technical: :technical: :technical: :technical: :technical:
Are all these photo links broken for everyone else too? :sad:
Yeah, a lot of the photo links in this thread are now broken. Hopefully at least some of the original posters are still around and can re-upload the photos to imgur or something.
Let me add some from my last rebuild:
Carb Boots for a '90 GS500
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2zeas7m.jpg)
Carb dirt in bowls:
(http://i66.tinypic.com/zxqkcn.jpg)
Carb cleaned and exploded:
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2eahx08.jpg)
Rings replaced (and some screws)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/70jmev.jpg)
This is the reference to the top ring. If I'm not wrong size is 4mm diameter and thickness is 1mm
(http://i63.tinypic.com/veaxyw.jpg)
This is the reference for the mixture screw ring. If I'm not wrong, size is 3mm diameter 1mm thickness.
(http://i68.tinypic.com/23kt8vc.jpg)
This is the float assembly ring. Take care:
- My seat had an imperfection that caused to dent this ring when installing it.
- Thickness is 1,35mm. Use a 1,5mm if not available.
(http://i66.tinypic.com/1zd43zp.jpg)
This is the float valve seat seal. It is a 1.5mm thickness.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/166n8gn.jpg)
This is the special pattern bowl seal (GS500 '90 carbs)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/208u3p4.jpg)
This is the rubber seal at the bottom of the slingshot valve guide. This is not available from suzuki.
1.5mm thick.
(http://i64.tinypic.com/24c9qat.jpg)
Some aftermarket float valve needle assemblies:
- Left is Keyster (guess K&L)
- Right is Original.
Keyster needle has ha very strong spring that caused me starvation.
Keyster seat is not a flange, it is an edge. Seals well, but causes wear to needle.
Parts are not mixable (do not use keyster needle in original seat). Fuel height mismatch will occur.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2vk00lg.jpg)
Some aftermarket float needles:
- Left is original
- Right is Tourmax.
Parts match very well (better than K&L) but the spring in the Tourmax is still very strong.
(http://i66.tinypic.com/soa8vo.jpg)
I have no idea where to post this, but i just bought an 05 gs500f and im looking for a carb rebuild kit but im not sure which one to get. every one i look at looks different.
hello guys , i have one question, i have 2006 suzuki gs500f , can i fit ol version carburetors on it , 2000 < ?
Hey everyone, does someone have the pictures?