So 1 out of the 4 exhaust bolts is stripped... i got the other 3 in, then removed them to try to see if there was a way to get the 4th out.. When i put the 3 back in, 2 on one of the sides went in fine.. on the other side it feels like it is stripping as i try to get the last little bit in (starts making the high pitch metal sound). Should i just cut the bolt and say screw it to the remaining amount or is there something wrong?
Also need help to get the stripped bolt out.
Very important to use anti seize lubricant on exhaust threads nuts and bolts etc. I'm having a little trouble understanding the 4th bolt. Is it removed from the block and the thread in the block stripped? Or the bolt is stuck in the block? If it's been removed and the block thread is stripped you will need a helicoil or thread insert kit, it will have instructions on what to do. If the bolt is stuck soak it in penetrating oil leave it soak it again then try to undo, but by the sounds of it you will at least need that thread repair kit. But most important when you go to put them all back in use nickel or copper anti sieze lubricant.
You don't want to say "Screw it" to an exhaust bolt. If there is a leak, your bike will run like garbage. Also, you will need to take it off to do oil changes. If it really is stripped, consider either trying to retap it, or tap it out one size larger and put helicoils in, I had to do this on one of my cars, and may have to do it on my bike due to PO. You'll have to just finish undoing the last bolt, even if it makes the metal squeels, maybe try to spray a little wd40/liquid wrench on the exposed threads, then thread it back in a bit, and pull it out. It has to come out one way or another. Like said, just learn your lesson from this and use anti seize from now on.
If you do have to tap it, make sure you read up on the correct process.
The bolt head is stripped and the bolt is seized.. so can't get it out at all.. the other side is the one that when i try to tighten it down it makes a grinding sound/feel and when i pull the bolt out i can see some metal in the threads.....
the other exhaust port the bolts worked perfectly in.
Quote from: numus on June 22, 2011, 05:02:17 PM
The bolt head is stripped and the bolt is seized.. so can't get it out at all.. the other side is the one that when i try to tighten it down it makes a grinding sound/feel and when i pull the bolt out i can see some metal in the threads.....
the other exhaust port the bolts worked perfectly in.
Oh the HEAD is stripped. Try filing it down with a file, or dremel, though I would be careful with a dremel because of sparks. You can either file it down to a size that fits, or file just the top and bottom/ left and right of it and put a vice grip on it. Just make sure the vice is tight.
Ah ok thanks for the clear up, ok start with the penetrating oil (WD40/Inox/Penetrene), soak that bolt again and again and again, then if you have vise grips use them try to 'crack' the bolt by screwing it in slightly only a little though, then undo the whole time spray more stuff in keep it lubed up. Or if you can get a hold of some baby stilsons (pipe wrench) to get some leverage on it. Or you could use a hacksaw blade or dremel to create two slots in the head and try and get a big flat blade screwdriver in the head and go that way you can even get the vise grips on the screwdriver too. If still no joy it gets a bit more complicated you will need to have a short bolt or a nut welded to that stubborn bolt then screw it out that way, the heat from the weld will also help expand/contract the bolt/block and make cracking that bolt that little bit easier, the whole time spray it with WD40 or what have you.
theres new cryo bolt stuff that you apply to just the bolt... maybe even put some heat to the head so that the head expands and the bolt shrinks... vibration is also amazing at breaking bolts free. get a small hammer and lightly tap the bolt it might help break it... as for stripped... your in some trouble... vice grips if you can grab it and ping on the vice grips with the hammer, get new bolts... and run a tap down any existing holes that are having issues... lube the tap run it in flush out with oil, if you cant tap it, get a thin wire brush (the round kind) and run it through the threads with some oil on it to bring out the crap...
antiseize fixed the one bolt that was having problems going back in... just gotta figure out the stripped one...
Cant do any of those suggestions because the exhaust is in the way.. cant event get a vice grip anywhere near it....
Try snapping a hacksaw blade in half and sawing a slot in the head of the bolt then getting the flatblade screwdriver in there, I just been down to have a look at my K3 and it will be a beech and take some time but u could do it that way.
I stripped out the outter bolt on the shifter side header tube....Had to slightly drill it out and instal la heli-Coil, very tight fit with the frame rail right there but being careful and patient got it done.
May have to just drop it off and have a shop drill the bolt out... It is really hard to get at it...
I had the same issue, 2 of my exhaust bolts were stuck in the head.
I tried soaking with penetrating oil in conjunction with alternating heat/cool cycles from a torch.
I did this every day for a week or so and was never able to remove the bolt.
I eventually put enough torque on it that I started to twist the head off the bolt so I gave up before it broke. :cry:
Torque on the exhaust bolts is only 15 to 18 foot pounds.Not very much.Be careful or you will have the same issue again when it's time to repaint the headers.
I had the same problem. Previous owner had one of the bolts cross threaded HORRIBLY. Didn't know til I took the exhaust off to do the oil change. Took it to a local shop to re-thread, but they actual put in studs and now I use nuts to hold the exhaust on. Cost me about $200 cause it's pretty labor intensive, and in the DMV prices tend to be a bit higher than the rest of the country. I think it was a fair price though.
Funnily enough I went out to look a 95 on Saturday morning. Low miles no obvious faults and pretty tidy for its age but it had failed its MOT due to a badly rusted and holed exhaust. Owner said he was offloading it because he didn't have the time or money to replace the pipe despite have picked a used and servicable one up at the local breakers. I had a look at the header bolts and guess what.....two had sheared off showing bright metal and two had rounded out >:(. I offered him £200 he said nah I want £500 for it. I said £400 if YOU take the pipe off, he said OK I will give you a ring when its done.....Here I am still waiting for the call :D :D
Guess some naive newbie will buy it though........... he might even show up in here asking the inevitable question :D :D
The problem I have is the ring that those bolts hold on isn't tight so some exhaust gas is escaping.. I tightened down the new bolt on the other side and it seems to have stopped 99% of the gas leak... Might just say F-it and never touch the pipes..
bump, another here with the stripped bolt blues..
have been working it with PB blaster, going now to get a torch to start putting some heat to it.
I can sympathize with you guys as I've had to remove a bent exhaust bolt from a used engine I purchased. The only thing that worked for me was wd 40, vice grips, and a dremel.
(http://i53.tinypic.com/15ntagk.jpg)
Quote from: numus on July 19, 2011, 09:52:40 AM
The problem I have is the ring that those bolts hold on isn't tight so some exhaust gas is escaping.. I tightened down the new bolt on the other side and it seems to have stopped 99% of the gas leak... Might just say F-it and never touch the pipes..
Mine isn't 100% tight either. I went from a VH to an older Yoshi pipe, and it's mostly very nice... but if I get on full throttle earlier than maybe 5 or 6k rpms, you get kind of a fart sound come from the front of the bike.
I dunno, sounds aggressive to some people :dunno_black: I occasionally WOT at lower rpms cruising in 6th gear to alert other drivers to my presence