Hi I've done a quick search and nothing has really come up so I'd start a thread so people can share tricks and tips on getting those stubborn nuts and bolts off there bikes, cars etc. I work in the railways so a fair few of the old tradesman have passed on there tricks so I know a few most are probably common knowledge so I'll start simple and feel free to add so those of us who do get stuck can get some ideas and help out hopefully.
1. Soak your bolt/nut in WD40 etc let sit then 'crack' it by tightening it by less than 1/4 turn then undoing it, if it goes tight again screw the bolt/nut in a couple turns if you can then spray more WD40 let it soak in then screw it out repeating as many times till it comes off.
2. Give the head of your bolt or screw a bash with a hammer (be careful if the screw has a philips/flat head etc) and that can shock the threads to releasing (an impact driver can help here).
3. If it doesn't work, use a bigger hammer.
4. See (3).
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N. See (N-1).
Actually, WD-40 isn't a penetrating oil. Something like PB Blaster would work better. I use Aero Kroil myself, but read something about a mix of ATF and another liquid being proven as the best. Better off doing a google search instead.......
An impact wrench can be very useful along with heating/cooling. I've come across a lot of bolts that the threads weren't seized, it was the actual head pressing on the surface. Grind off the head and the threaded part came out without any tools at all.
ATF and acetone.
http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=10882&hilit=penetrating+oil
Make sure you're using the right tool first, esp if it looks like it's going to be stubborn. 6-point sockets for hex, right size screwdrivers. No open-end, crescent wrenches, pliers, channel locks, vice grips. Once you're started rounding it, it's hard to ever get it off. If it's rounded, try using next size down in SAE or Metric.
Impact guns are your friend.
Sometimes breaking the head off the bolt is the quickest way to proceed. Make sure you know when this will be the thing to do, and have drill/tap ready.
Drills, taps, and dies are your friend.
Clean backsides of bolts on through-bolted connections, rather than dragging all the dirt/crud through the threads.
Steel and aluminium can galvanically corrode together in a way that's impossible to disassemble. Know when this is the case and be prepared to drill and tap.
+1 on PB blaster it always works eventually!
Mary
Welding another bolt or nut onto the stuck one also works a treat.
Want one, NOW!:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PpwnTkeeGqY&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL
or intead I could drop into:
http://www.metalartspress.com/PDFs/Removing_Frozen_or_Broken_Taps_and_Fasteners.pdf
for a good old read.
A soldering iron/lighter/blowtorch...
hand grenade for those stubborn bolts... ducktape on pull pin, duck... at least the bolt wont be a problem anymore...
I like Loctite Freeze and Release.
Quote from: crzydood17 on June 23, 2011, 04:45:57 AM
I like Loctite Freeze and Release.
I love that stuff I forgot to mention it!
1.)PB Blaster
2.)Heat Wrench/Heat Cool Cycles
3.)Whacking on it with a BFH
4.)Cutting Head off bolt, slotting the shank and using screw driver and anyone of the above.
These are in no particular order.
If you have a bolt or nut on a flat surface and kids who have play dough or plastascene, build 4 walls around the stubborn bolt then fill with your favorite penetrating oil, and leave sit.
Here's some pics on how to un-stick a piston:
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=20929.msg244703#msg244703
I know, it's not a seized bolt. But it is basically the same concept (with an awesome picture).
Been doing my 'poor man's impact' for years now. My old Williams 1/2" ratchet has been hit so many times and keeps on taking it. I like to use a dead blow hammer and if that doesn't work, move up to the steel bfh. I don't hit with the hammer, but with the neck right below the hammer head. This has worked for me for years. Just recently got a Makita 14.4v cordless and love it. Took out the body to frame bolts on my old van with ease. For really annoying bolts, KD makes a 'nutcracker' that you tighten down on the nut and it will crack it in two. That's great if you have a replacement nut, not so much if you don't. In the couple of cases where I stripped the bolt, I used 'twist sockets' and then bfh'd them off. You pound on the twist socket with a hammer and it cuts into the head of the bolt/nut. With that grip you can then get off the stripped fastener. I'd say #1 tip is use the right size wrench for the fastener! I went to help some young guys working on a Toyota and they only had a set of sae tools. Somehow they had gotten quite a bit taken apart before I got there! Great thread, I hope it continues! I can always use more tips!
*bump* for benefit of others.
I've always found a 9' grinder works well, as does an oxy - cuts through bolts like butter :woohoo:
Quote from: mister on February 06, 2012, 07:22:02 PM
I've always found a 9' grinder works well, as does an oxy - cuts through bolts like butter :woohoo:
Ahhhh Oxy.... The good old BLUE wrench....
Gas axe!
Quote from: aussiegs on February 06, 2012, 11:34:16 PM
Gas axe!
Was gonna write "gas axe" but wasn't sure our American friends would know that term.
Michael
Let's see how long it takes.
Quote from: mister on February 07, 2012, 03:36:08 AM
Quote from: aussiegs on February 06, 2012, 11:34:16 PM
Gas axe!
Was gonna write "gas axe" but wasn't sure our American friends would know that term.
Michael
We have that here but not sure how it would help...
-Jessie
(http://gasx.com/img/box-thinStrips-lg.jpg)
Perhaps the gas being produced prior to the use if that could be harnessed and used in a gas axe.