anyone know the best place to get a full engine rebuild kit? i dont really want to go to a suzuki dealer
Don't know if there are any suppliers out there. The general consensus on this forum is it is cheaper to buy a used working engine than to rebuild your current one.
-Jessie
Do you mean a full gasket kit?
i'm thinking a full tear down and rebuild, i have alot of problems with the engine i took it to a dealer and they said it was too modifed for them to want to touch it so i'm going to do it myself
I have found Athena and Centauro full gasket kits but only genuine bearings and rings.
What mods have been done to your motor?
I'm afraid that all the internal parts are only sold by Suzuki.These are considered beginner bikes in ever aspect so there is not much aftermarket support for engine internals.
i'm not changeing out the internals at all, just putting all new gaskets on and cleaning up any rust that might be in the engine. I found some rust in the carbs, and it is leaking oil from somewhere. as for mods that are already on the bike, all that has been done is a youshumura raceing exaust has been put on, a K&N lunchbox air filter, and the main jet has been changed from a #122.5 to a #134
So IT IS a gasket kit you are looking for?
Quote from: zkbuck on June 29, 2011, 09:26:26 AM
i'm not changeing out the internals at all, just putting all new gaskets on and cleaning up any rust that might be in the engine. I found some rust in the carbs, and it is leaking oil from somewhere. as for mods that are already on the bike, all that has been done is a youshumura raceing exaust has been put on, a K&N lunchbox air filter, and the main jet has been changed from a #122.5 to a #134
You got a DJ kit in it a pipe and K&N filter, and the dealer thought it was too modified to work on ... WTF ...
BTW you do know you will not ever find any rust inside a motor right, all the parts are aluminum, bronze and the steel parts are bathed in oil.
Cool.
Buddha.
i know i prolly wont find any rust in the engine, but since the carbs were pluged i thought i should check. cant hurt right? and i found a full gasket kit on bikebandit.com so i i can replace all the seals in the whole engine since i have it pulled apart.
as for the dealer, the closest sizuki dealer is about 2 hours away do i took it to a honda shop (a friend takes his yammaha there and they do good work according to him) but i'm thinking that it was just in too rough of shape and they didnt want to deal with it, it does look really rough but it runs great (untill last week) for haveing 31k on the engine
question about the Slide needle in the carbs, There is a washer ontop of the adjustment clip and under the next plastic peice, and i cant figure out what it was there for. it's not on any schematic i have seen for the carbs?
Could it possibly have something to do with the new over sized jets?
I ask because i lost one when i took everything apart and i would like to know if i need to go out and try and find another of this very small washer, or just nix the one that i still have
ok no offence but if you cant figure out the carbs i really dont recommend you tearing the motor apart. if you do you will be parting the motor out and selling the rest or looking for another motor. the washers raise the needle just that little extra to get the jetting just right. the last time i checked gummed up carbs were no reason to tear into a motor. theats just stupid. rust in carb comes from tank. so clean the tank and the carbs leave the motor alone.
If there is a washer between the plastic spacer and the E clip,it's there to richen part throttle and mid range power.If it's above the top of the clip then it really has no effect that I know of.It may slow down the slides when they rise.
Stock should look like this.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/needleassembly2.jpg)
Quote from: joshr08 on July 06, 2011, 04:46:56 AM
ok no offence but if you cant figure out the carbs i really dont recommend you tearing the motor apart. if you do you will be parting the motor out and selling the rest or looking for another motor. the washers raise the needle just that little extra to get the jetting just right. the last time i checked gummed up carbs were no reason to tear into a motor. theats just stupid. rust in carb comes from tank. so clean the tank and the carbs leave the motor alone.
I'm not doing this build alone, i do have a friend who has torn down motors before helping me, but he was also not sure about the spacer in the carb, and as for what i am doing to the engine anyways is just to replace the gaskets to stop the oil that is leaking from several places.
Quote from: zkbuck on July 06, 2011, 09:16:15 AM
Quote from: joshr08 on July 06, 2011, 04:46:56 AM
ok no offence but if you cant figure out the carbs i really dont recommend you tearing the motor apart. if you do you will be parting the motor out and selling the rest or looking for another motor. the washers raise the needle just that little extra to get the jetting just right. the last time i checked gummed up carbs were no reason to tear into a motor. theats just stupid. rust in carb comes from tank. so clean the tank and the carbs leave the motor alone.
I'm not doing this build alone, i do have a friend who has torn down motors before helping me, but he was also not sure about the spacer in the carb
Working on a motorcycle engine is very different from automotive engines.
Quote from: ben2go on July 06, 2011, 09:18:38 AM
Quote from: zkbuck on July 06, 2011, 09:16:15 AM
Quote from: joshr08 on July 06, 2011, 04:46:56 AM
ok no offence but if you cant figure out the carbs i really dont recommend you tearing the motor apart. if you do you will be parting the motor out and selling the rest or looking for another motor. the washers raise the needle just that little extra to get the jetting just right. the last time i checked gummed up carbs were no reason to tear into a motor. theats just stupid. rust in carb comes from tank. so clean the tank and the carbs leave the motor alone.
I'm not doing this build alone, i do have a friend who has torn down motors before helping me, but he was also not sure about the spacer in the carb
Working on a motorcycle engine is very different from automotive engines.
my firend works on motorcycles, I have only really worked on a lawn mowers so i am enlisting his help
Quote from: zkbuck on July 06, 2011, 09:22:21 AM
Quote from: ben2go on July 06, 2011, 09:18:38 AM
Quote from: zkbuck on July 06, 2011, 09:16:15 AM
Quote from: joshr08 on July 06, 2011, 04:46:56 AM
ok no offence but if you cant figure out the carbs i really dont recommend you tearing the motor apart. if you do you will be parting the motor out and selling the rest or looking for another motor. the washers raise the needle just that little extra to get the jetting just right. the last time i checked gummed up carbs were no reason to tear into a motor. theats just stupid. rust in carb comes from tank. so clean the tank and the carbs leave the motor alone.
I'm not doing this build alone, i do have a friend who has torn down motors before helping me, but he was also not sure about the spacer in the carb
Working on a motorcycle engine is very different from automotive engines.
my firend works on motorcycles, I have only really worked on a lawn mowers so i am enlisting his help
:thumb:
Final verdict, I'm going to remove the second spacer off the main carb and see what happens, if it runs like poo then i'll have to go find a second washer.
good luck
How far into the motor are you planning on going? Pulling the heads off, side covers, oil pan, etc is fairly easy (also where most oil leaks come from). If you pull the cylinders get a new base gasket and piston rings. I advise against splitting the cases if you don't have to.
I think Ben2Go has a good write up on carb parts + tuning theory. Read as much as possible on carbs and tuning them before pulling them apart and making changes.
Quote from: Big Rich on July 07, 2011, 08:21:59 AM
How far into the motor are you planning on going? Pulling the heads off, side covers, oil pan, etc is fairly easy (also where most oil leaks come from). If you pull the cylinders get a new base gasket and piston rings. I advise against splitting the cases if you don't have to.
I think Ben2Go has a good write up on carb parts + tuning theory. Read as much as possible on carbs and tuning them before pulling them apart and making changes.
Carbs http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=56601.0
I wouldn't split the case.The case halves use a special bonding adhesive to seal them.They can be a pain in the @$$ to get to reseal.
Quote from: Big Rich on July 07, 2011, 08:21:59 AM
How far into the motor are you planning on going? Pulling the heads off, side covers, oil pan, etc is fairly easy (also where most oil leaks come from). If you pull the cylinders get a new base gasket and piston rings. I advise against splitting the cases if you don't have to.
I think Ben2Go has a good write up on carb parts + tuning theory. Read as much as possible on carbs and tuning them before pulling them apart and making changes.
I read that carbs write up and it doesn't say anything about why that washer is there, so I'm really not sure and i don't know anyone who knows.
as for the tare down and leaks it looks like most of the leaks are comming from the oil pan and under the top end, i would imagine that there is alot wrong with the seals since it sat in a lean-to uncovered in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan for 2 years. but it's a nice beginner 98' project that i picked up for $200, so i cant complain too much
Perfect price to start with.......
If it's the washer I'm think of, it raises the needle which allows more gas in all the time. Once the slide raises, the needle is already slightly higher, and bigger jets squirt more gas. But the needle is (mostly) used up to about 3/4 throttle. After that, the main jet becomes the most important. Forgive me if I skipped over it: but if you have an aftermarket intake, the washer should be there.
Quote from: Big Rich on July 07, 2011, 10:55:19 AM
Perfect price to start with.......
If it's the washer I'm think of, it raises the needle which allows more gas in all the time. Once the slide raises, the needle is already slightly higher, and bigger jets squirt more gas. But the needle is (mostly) used up to about 3/4 throttle. After that, the main jet becomes the most important. Forgive me if I skipped over it: but if you have an aftermarket intake, the washer should be there.
That would ecplain the washers...I guess i need to make a trip to the hardwear store and find one that is the same size as the one i have. thank you very much
Quote from: ben2go on July 06, 2011, 08:42:45 AM
If there is a washer between the plastic spacer and the E clip,it's there to richen part throttle and mid range power.If it's above the top of the clip then it really has no effect that I know of.It may slow down the slides when they rise.
zbuck did you read my post about the washers?
Quote from: ben2go on July 07, 2011, 03:17:02 PM
Quote from: ben2go on July 06, 2011, 08:42:45 AM
If there is a washer between the plastic spacer and the E clip,it's there to richen part throttle and mid range power.If it's above the top of the clip then it really has no effect that I know of.It may slow down the slides when they rise.
zbuck did you read my post about the washers?
Yes i did, the washer is ontop of the E clip under the plastic Gromit thing
if you want to do it right you need to mic the washers to get the exact same thinkness washer on both carbs.
Quote from: joshr08 on July 08, 2011, 04:28:41 AM
if you want to do it right you need to mic the washers to get the exact same thinkness washer on both carbs.
Already done! :thumb: I work as an engineer for a machine shop so that was the first thing i did before going on a hunt through our stock of washers to find a replacement ;)
bets on PO didnt understand how to shim and was like hmmm i guess i just throw a washer in here...
Quote from: crzydood17 on July 08, 2011, 05:41:01 AM
bets on PO didnt understand how to shim and was like hmmm i guess i just throw a washer in here...
I've seen that before.
so should i put the shims back where they were or on the bottom side of the E clip or just leave them alone?
Quote from: zkbuck on June 27, 2011, 07:45:32 PM
i'm thinking a full tear down and rebuild, i have alot of problems with the engine i took it to a dealer and they said it was too modifed for them to want to touch it so i'm going to do it myself
Im curious as to what all is modified on it to be too much. Seems there is only so much you can do on them
Quote from: weedahoe on August 03, 2011, 04:44:25 AM
Quote from: zkbuck on June 27, 2011, 07:45:32 PM
i'm thinking a full tear down and rebuild, i have alot of problems with the engine i took it to a dealer and they said it was too modifed for them to want to touch it so i'm going to do it myself
Im curious as to what all is modified on it to be too much. Seems there is only so much you can do on them
All that you can see from the outside is the K&N Lunch box and the Yoshi Exaust, what i have found other wise is that it has been re-jetted but that is really not that much. i think they just didnt want to deal with the problem it was haveing
Sounds like all ya need to do is to acid wash the fuel tank, coat it with a fuel tank lilning product, replace fuel lines, clean carbs, get the correct washer shim(s) on the needle, replace the valve cover gasket, new oil filter and filter cover gasket, and t hen check for any other leaks after riding on new oil. Do some search here to get the 411 on the wahers, I think most MC carb mods are done with Radio Shack washer kits. Oil pan leaking? Maybe case halves leaking; but probably not.
You will have mechanicing adventure enough just doing the valve tune-up and other scuh tasks, don't make work for yourself and the first rule is NOT to make matters worse!
prs
there was a leak at the head gasket and i also did the side covers, oil pan, oil filter, and cleaned the carbs, really not that much work. the problem is it's my friend's step dad's garage and i can only work on it 1 day a week. also i keep breaking parts and waiting on those, but it's just about done as soon as i get this last timing chain bolt in from cheap cycle