Today I finally had time and patience to install the new pulse generator, signal rotor and crankcase cover. Once I jad everything together I attempted to start it for the first time in about a year. The ignition works, but the signal rotor just keeps spinning around, and the bike doesn't "catch". Some key points:
1. Changed the oil and filter. The bike has approx. 3 Litres of oil.
2. In the Clymer manual it says to line the signal rotor up with the locator pin on the shaft. Turns out the pin is missing, but the hole is still there, so I lined the rotor up with that. Is the locator pin needed in the starting process? If so my bike is screwed.
3. The exhaust made a few loud popping noises while I tried to start the bike.
4. The bike has been in heated storage but the gas in the tank is almost a year old.
So the starter is spinning, but the engine is not turning over at all?
Year old gas....
Drain the tank and get some fresh fuel in there.Clean the carbs- that is remove them from the bike and do a real cleaning.
Quote from: ryott52 on July 23, 2011, 07:35:54 PM
So the starter is spinning, but the engine is not turning over at all?
The engine is turning over, bit its that first sound like uh, just before the bike is supposed to actually start.
Quote from: Jared on July 23, 2011, 08:27:54 PM
Year old gas....
Drain the tank and get some fresh fuel in there.Clean the carbs- that is remove them from the bike and do a real cleaning.
So you mean nothing simple haha. Could there be something wrong with rotor? Is it supposed to spin or hit against the little notch from the pulse generator? I'm glad I didn't burn out the engine or anything because that would have turned a nice bike into a paperweight.
you need the pin. Sounds like timing is probably off due to not having that pin in there to line it up properly. Buy a new pin and stick it in there. The rotor is suppose to keep spinning with the motor.
Yeah you should replace the pin-it's necessary---I didn't think it needed to be stated.
If it's not ( the rotor ) locked in place the ignition will not stay in the correct timing---You tighten the bolt but the rotor still spins by itself on the shaft right?
Year old gas isn't going to be any good ( did you use stabil or anything?)- and the carbs will be crudded up and need cleaning.
Quote from: ramennoodles on July 23, 2011, 09:02:45 PM
you need the pin. Sounds like timing is probably off due to not having that pin in there to line it up properly. Buy a new pin and stick it in there. The rotor is suppose to keep spinning with the motor.
Can I buy the pin separately or do I need the full shaft part?
Quote from: Jared on July 23, 2011, 09:14:57 PM
Yeah you should replace the pin-it's necessary---I didn't think it needed to be stated.
If it's not ( the rotor ) locked in place the ignition will not stay in the correct timing---You tighten the bolt but the rotor still spins by itself on the shaft right? [/quoute]
Exactly, the shaft keeps spinning even when properly tightened
Quote from: Jared on July 23, 2011, 09:14:57 PM
Yeah you should replace the pin-it's necessary---I didn't think it needed to be stated.
If it's not ( the rotor ) locked in place the ignition will not stay in the correct timing---You tighten the bolt but the rotor still spins by itself on the shaft right?
Year old gas isn't going to be any good ( did you use stabil or anything?)- and the carbs will be crudded up and need cleaning.
Exaxtly, the rotor still spins on the shaft.
Quote from: rock_rebel on July 24, 2011, 05:16:10 AM
Can I buy the pin separately or do I need the full shaft part?
The pin is available as an individual part. Shown as Number 5 on the crankshaft fiche, Suzuki part no 47113-001
Quote from: sledge on July 24, 2011, 05:37:04 AM
Quote from: rock_rebel on July 24, 2011, 05:16:10 AM
Can I buy the pin separately or do I need the full shaft part?
The pin is available as an individual part. Shown as Number 5 on the crankshaft fiche, Suzuki part no 47113-001
Thanks!
Could I just empty the tank and use carb cleaner? I'm not 100% confident about taking the carbs apart, because I have fear of losing a part or the bike blowing up once I put the carbs back :laugh:
The carb removal section in the Clymer manual is detailed. Is there an easier way of cleaning the carbs without having to remove all those gaskets and needles?
If the bike is still not running once you've replaced that pin then you should tear the carbs apart to properly clean them. Carb cleaner is meant to be used on the metal parts of a disassembled carb, it will eat away the rubber and plastic parts, it's as caustic as brake fluid.
i spray starter fluid through my carbs if i want to clean them a bit without disassembly
That's not a good idea......
Starter fluid is bad for rubber as well. Any dirt that it did remove would only be from the intake area of the carb. AND it would take that dirt and put it inside the cylinder.
Seriously, carbs are easy clean. All you need is the proper tools and a clean work bench (I place a towl or something down so small parts can't roll away).
starter fluid is designed to be run through carbs... and any dirt it pushed through would be a minor thing to my bike not running correctly, most of the stuff that builds up and causes problems in a carb is either super fine dust or crap from the tank that is going in anyway... or it could be oil based and need to be removed and only petroleum products cut oil...
I sprayed starter fluid through my entire carb and fixed my rough idle issue so, if its "wrong" i dont wanna be right...
Yeah, but starter fluid is ether, butane, and propellant. It's designed to be run through carbs. It's not carb cleaner, which will eat up soft parts.
This sounds like a bad petcock not allowing fuel to flow to the carbs.Bypass the frame mounted petcock and try that with fresh fuel.Have you pulled the plugs to see if they are firing?The ignition may not be getting any power.Checked the fuse?
Quote from: ben2go on August 01, 2011, 12:55:36 PM
This sounds like a bad petcock not allowing fuel to flow to the carbs.Bypass the frame mounted petcock and try that with fresh fuel.Have you pulled the plugs to see if they are firing?The ignition may not be getting any power.Checked the fuse?
I thought it was kinda funny reading your response and looking at your avatar.
rock rebel, I think replace that pin first before you go and do anything like tearing your carbs apart.
Too late :(
I checked the carb bowls and they're not that dirty. I'm just going to stop there and put everything back there, and try the more obvious things, like that darn pin.
What size screws replace the JIS ones on the carbs? I extracted a few of them already.
So I just completely destryed a thread in one of the carb covers. It's not important, it just holds the bracket that the solenoid is attached to. Does anyone have any carb parts, particularly the cover I just goofed up. It's the cover that holds the solenoid, not sure if its right or left side.
On side note, the solenoid is only on the GS500F, so that carb cover would be extremely hard to find. Glad I just goofed up the bracket a little.
I went to the stealership today and talked to a guy there, main discussion being what was going on with my bike. He was pretty sure that the locator pin is the issue, because there needs to be a pin there so the timing isn't thrown off. So I guess that was the problem all along. Thanks everyone for the help. The part will be here next week :)
I've also ordered a new air filter, and will be replacing the rusted spark plugs.
Champion 809 Copper Plus plugs, also listed as Champion RA6HC Copper Plus, are the BEST spark plugs for the GS engine. You don't need exotic metal tips, you don't WANT NGK or ND... best of all, the Champion plugs sell for less than $3 (US) just about everywhere. My local Autozone has them for $1.99, plus tax.
Great plug, great price; hope you can find some locally...
Quote from: GSnoober on August 15, 2011, 01:01:17 PM
Champion 809 Copper Plus plugs, also listed as Champion RA6HC Copper Plus, are the BEST spark plugs for the GS engine. You don't need exotic metal tips, you don't WANT NGK or ND... best of all, the Champion plugs sell for less than $3 (US) just about everywhere. My local Autozone has them for $1.99, plus tax.
Great plug, great price; hope you can find some locally...
What's wrong with NGK?That's all I run in my bikes and I have never had an issue.I'll try the ones you suggested.I'm always open to trying a better product.