Been trying to search the forum for the answers but can't come up with anything that has active links (ebay links that no longer exist.. ect.)
1) I just replaced my 96' cluster with that from an 05'... we rewired everything and soldered the old harness on so everything works (including taping the RH coil for the tach) but first the Tach backlight burned out, then the speedo backlight burned out. What to replace these with LEDS but didnt know if there was a "drop in" method. 2) I have incandescent turn lights but still switched to an electric relay. (originally bought it because I was switching to LEDS but had to many issues). The relay randomly clicks (including after I cancel a turn signal) and the turn signals only light up when i actually indicate... When I cancel the turn signal they don't light up even tho the relay clicks (So not really worried about this from a functioning standpoint) but can't figure out why power is still getting to the electrical relay.
Well I am retarded since half the answer was in the Wiki..
Been reading thru this
http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Upgrades.LEDIndicators
I have a 96' that I put an 04' gauge cluster on (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380345674919&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT) I should be able to use the Post 2002 LEDS information correct? Or do I have to worry about the voltage and wattage.
Just found these http://cgi.ebay.com/2x-194-168-501-T10-5-SMD-White-5050-LED-Car-Light-Bulb-/140522678643?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b7cde973
Seem cheap as dirt..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2x-T10-194-168-W5W-5-SMD-Car-Side-Wedge-LED-Light-Blue-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20bae296b0QQitemZ140574365360QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Blue
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2X-Red-SMD-5-LED-194-168-T10-Car-Light-Bulb-Lamp-5050-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3f0bcdb071QQitemZ270780969073QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Red
Figured I would post all the links so there was a more updated one.
Little confused on the 4 indicator lights tho.. it says #74 but also T6.5... Will a T5 not fit Like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-x-Super-WHITE-T5-74-1-Chip-SMD-Dashboard-LED-Car-Bulb-/120664913134?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c183074ee
Just ended up going with Superbrightleds.com and got 2 of the WLED-5x and 3 of the 74-x... Called them up and they confirmed all the base #74 are polarized so just going to replace all but the turn signal indicator and just hope that doesn't burn out anytime soon.
So while you were ordering from them you didn't order the non-polarized ones for the turn signal? :dunno_black:
The WLED-5x and 6x are non-polarized :icon_eek: as are the WLED-xLX
Indicators will look better if you ordered LEDs of the same color as the plastic cap. White LEDs will wash out the color and not look as good.
Instruments work good with the xHP5 (cool white, warm white or amber I like best). Others work, too. The brightness will vary depending on which one you use in the instruments as the light has to bounce around sideways inside to illuminate the dial. I haven't tried the 5x for instruments. The hole is small so I don't know if the 5x will fit, but probably will with a little fidgeting.
All LEDs can be polarized on the GS except for the turn signal. You can use a polarized for turn signal if you throw in 2 diodes and a ground wire. Ground is on all the other bulbs. The 2 diodes connect the turn signal wires together to run the polarized LED. Therefore you don't have much wiring to do in you go that route. Still, easier to get a non-polarized LED in amber or green (depending on your plastic cap color).
I have a box full of all their wedge based LEDs because I use them in my yard lights as well. Its fun to experiment and see now different ones look.
I have also used these from LEDLight for instruments
http://www.ledlight.com/t10-wedge-concave-led-light.aspx
Quote from: adidasguy on July 25, 2011, 12:10:26 PM
So while you were ordering from them you didn't order the non-polarized ones for the turn signal? :dunno_black:
The WLED-5x and 6x are non-polarized :icon_eek: as are the WLED-xLX
Indicators will look better if you ordered LEDs of the same color as the plastic cap. White LEDs will wash out the color and not look as good.
Instruments work good with the xHP5 (cool white, warm white or amber I like best). Others work, too. The brightness will vary depending on which one you use in the instruments as the light has to bounce around sideways inside to illuminate the dial. I haven't tried the 5x for instruments. The hole is small so I don't know if the 5x will fit, but probably will with a little fidgeting.
All LEDs can be polarized on the GS except for the turn signal. You can use a polarized for turn signal if you throw in 2 diodes and a ground wire. Ground is on all the other bulbs. The 2 diodes connect the turn signal wires together to run the polarized LED. Therefore you don't have much wiring to do in you go that route. Still, easier to get a non-polarized LED in amber or green (depending on your plastic cap color).
I have a box full of all their wedge based LEDs because I use them in my yard lights as well. Its fun to experiment and see now different ones look.
The WLED-5X is for the instrument cluster.. went with the 5x instead of the 6x because the 5x has a 220 degree difussion angle whilet he 6x has like a 35deg angle....
Was told the 5x wouldn't fit in the indicators holes.. had to be a T5/T6.5 or #74 base... Totally forgot about getting colors and got all white :( May replace them down the road...
As for your suggestion on modifying the wiring for the turn signal...
That is actually genius and would be simple to implement at the wiring harness... Simply cut the 2 wires that lead to the turn signal illuminator... put a diode on each wire and then tie them both into 1 of the wires leading to the bulb.. then tie the other wire leading to the bulb into a ground...
May buy color bulbs to replace the white ones and do that...
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=CAR&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-xLX.htm
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x6.htm
These work well in the indicator holes and are non-polarized.
For the instruments, the light bounces all over the place inside. There is a metal plate at the tip of where the bulb goes so it doesn't make a bright point on the dial face. So, most any bright LED will bounce around enough inside to illuminate the dial face. A narrow angle LED will hit the metal plate and start bouncing the light around. Side firing will hit the sides and bounce around. Nothing directly shines on the dials. The light bounces around inside the white plastic housing. Quite a few different LEDs work in the instruments. The difference is the final brightness.
Maybe I should put together kits of all the LEDs? :icon_question: (as soon as I finish the bike cave)
I've got enough extras for 5 to 10 kits.
Any cheap diode like a a couple 1n4001's, soldering iron and some heat shrink tubing would work. Probably under a dollar to do it.
Quote from: adidasguy on July 25, 2011, 01:05:36 PM
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=CAR&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-xLX.htm
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x6.htm
These work well in the indicator holes and are non-polarized.
For the instruments, the light bounces all over the place inside. There is a metal plate at the tip of where the bulb goes so it doesn't make a bright point on the dial face. So, most any bright LED will bounce around enough inside to illuminate the dial face. A narrow angle LED will hit the metal plate and start bouncing the light around. Side firing will hit the sides and bounce around. Nothing directly shines on the dials. The light bounces around inside the white plastic housing. Quite a few different LEDs work in the instruments. The difference is the final brightness.
Maybe I should put together kits of all the LEDs? :icon_question: (as soon as I finish the bike cave)
I've got enough extras for 5 to 10 kits.
Any cheap diode like a a couple 1n4001's, soldering iron and some heat shrink tubing would work. Probably under a dollar to do it.
Can you please update the wiki http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Upgrades.LEDIndicators
That is where I took all the information from.
If the WLED-XLX fit the indicators, shouldn't need the diode although i did find a problem switching out to LED turn signals.
Since the indicator requires that you ground out thru the turn signal you do not wish to utilize, this is still high enough to signal the LED...
I switched to an electronic relay and when i wired the LED turn signals, no matter what way i pressed the switch to indicate, both sides lit up...
According to the wiki the base is wrong for the indicator lights.
The same T10 base works for gauges, indicators and my Malibu yard lights.
Problem is some lights/LEDs are larger diameter and don't fit. I've found the T10 base to be the same for all of them.
LED technology changes fast so keeping up to date might be tricky. My new bike cave is all LED lighting - even the 4' tubes went LED (but $9 shop fixtures and in one minute remove the ballast & reconnect the ends directly to the AC and you're done.) though 4' tubes are now about $65 each - they don't flicker or buzz when its cold.
LED turn signals load the flasher relay so that's the problem there: not enough load and the flasher won't work right because most are a bi-metal strip that heats up and flexes with the current going through it to turn signals on and off. Different current and it works at a different rate. The turn signal indicator is virtually nothing in terms of load so that won't make any noticeable difference in the flash rate. That's the reason for needing an electronic flasher relay.
Quote from: adidasguy on July 25, 2011, 02:48:34 PM
The same T10 base works for gauges, indicators and my Malibu yard lights.
Problem is some lights/LEDs are larger diameter and don't fit. I've found the T10 base to be the same for all of them.
LED technology changes fast so keeping up to date might be tricky. My new bike cave is all LED lighting - even the 4' tubes went LED (but $9 shop fixtures and in one minute remove the ballast & reconnect the ends directly to the AC and you're done.) though 4' tubes are now about $65 each - they don't flicker or buzz when its cold.
LED turn signals load the flasher relay so that's the problem there: not enough load and the flasher won't work right because most are a bi-metal strip that heats up and flexes with the current going through it to turn signals on and off. Different current and it works at a different rate. The turn signal indicator is virtually nothing in terms of load so that won't make any noticeable difference in the flash rate. That's the reason for needing an electronic flasher relay.
Problem with the electronic flasher is that since the indicator in the gauge cluster uses the opposite side to ground thru, you may have a 9.5V across on flasher and the other side experiences 9V after it passes thru the indicator you wanted to flash + the gauge indicator... on LEDs 9V is still enough to light the side you are grounding thru... atleast that is my opinion of what happened.
That could be possible if everything went LED (including turn signals) since current goes through the turn signal indicator between the left and right sides.
Using 2 diodes would prevent that.
You are right that LEDs are more current oriented than voltage. As long as there is enough current, they go on and 12v ones probably anywhere from 8 to 15 volts (I should test that on my bench breadboard thingy with all the voltages , dials & meters.)
Once the bike cave is done I'll have a clean area to do lots of testing on things.
The 5x LED will fit into the instruments - but you have fuggle it in as it is slightly bigger than the hole. Go in at a slight angle to get 2 side LEDs in then push the rest of the way in. I found I had some and checked it out.
Trivia:
Q: How do you make a white LED? A: You make a UV LED then apply a phosphor over it that emits white light when excited by UV (similar to how florescent lamps work)
Q: How can you tell if an LED is a white LED without applying power? A: Shine a black light, UV LED or Blue LED on it. The chip will glow yellow to orange because the phosphor on it is excited by the UV causing it to emit visible light.
Q: If you put an LED in your instrument indicators (let's say the green one) Which will be brighter: A white LED of 10 lumens or a green LED of 5 lumens? A: The green one. A White LED emits a little over 3 lumens of green, 3 of red and 3 of blue so a green plastic cap will block the red and blue, giving you 3 lumens of green where a pure green LED of 5 lumens will give you 5 lumens of light. That's why it is best to use an LED of the color of the plastic cap it goes under, rather than white.
Actually, the caps are not perfect filters. A little red and blue will go through a green cap, thus washing out the color and look like a faded green. use a green LED under a green cap and it will be a very rich green. Use red under red and blue under blue. If you have amber for turn signals, use amber for that.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Assorted/DSC01137a.jpg)
UV LED shining on an assortment. White? (counting left to right) 2,3,4,6 and 8
Quote from: adidasguy on July 26, 2011, 02:05:24 AM
The 5x LED will fit into the instruments - but you have fuggle it in as it is slightly bigger than the hole. Go in at a slight angle to get 2 side LEDs in then push the rest of the way in. I found I had some and checked it out.
Trivia:
Q: How do you make a white LED? A: You make a UV LED then apply a phosphor over it that emits white light when excited by UV (similar to how florescent lamps work)
Q: How can you tell if an LED is a white LED without applying power? A: Shine a black light, UV LED or Blue LED on it. The chip will glow yellow to orange because the phosphor on it is excited by the UV causing it to emit visible light.
Q: If you put an LED in your instrument indicators (let's say the green one) Which will be brighter: A white LED of 10 lumens or a green LED of 5 lumens? A: The green one. A White LED emits a little over 3 lumens of green, 3 of red and 3 of blue so a green plastic cap will block the red and blue, giving you 3 lumens of green where a pure green LED of 5 lumens will give you 5 lumens of light. That's why it is best to use an LED of the color of the plastic cap it goes under, rather than white.
Actually, the caps are not perfect filters. A little red and blue will go through a green cap, thus washing out the color and look like a faded green. use a green LED under a green cap and it will be a very rich green. Use red under red and blue under blue. If you have amber for turn signals, use amber for that.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Assorted/DSC01137a.jpg)
UV LED shining on an assortment. White? (counting left to right) 2,3,4,6 and 8
You really should create a kit, or atleast a list of the exact models that function better in the gauge cluster and then update the wiki with it..
It is easier to be told... This this and that fit in here and there and work the best.. done.
You are positive the X6 will fit into the gauge indicator spots? Going to order 1 red, 2 green and 1 blue if you are...
Atleast that is what my caps appear to be http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380345674919&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT <- that is the cluster i bought
I could put together a kit and you can tell me if you like it. :icon_lol:
Quote from: adidasguy on July 26, 2011, 10:21:41 AM
I could put together a kit and you can tell me if you like it. :icon_lol:
That would work.
OK. Good thing I have a couple bikes. Seems the "E" bikes use standard T-10 wedge base lamps (same as the gauges). On the "F" they went to the mini wedge base and made the holes smaller.
Well, I didn't like the brightness of the mini wedge LEDs I have so I shaved down the edges of the base on a T-10 and they did fit. Tight - but did fit.
I'm going to do more work this weekend on Suzi's indicators that are now LED and see what ones can fit with a little shaving down.
You can see how I shaved them down a little to fit. It needs a little more work to get it exact but it did work. Because the fit was tight, I put a drop of super glue on the bulb to lock it into the rubber socket.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Assorted/IMGP1300a.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/jE52W.jpg)
Bulbs came in :) Worked awesome... Only one not changed is the turn signal.. and the bulbs in the indicators will be changed in the near future.. but the clear ones aren't half bad...
Also looking into accent light options...
Would it be better to go with a 7 inch SMD tube like
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=ACCENTS&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FSMD_LED_tube.htm#photos
or
the mcm accent series
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=ACCENTS&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fmcm.htm
or
The lux3
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fals.htm
Those look OK.
Seems they changed the indicator lights in 2004. The gauges are still T10 base lamps.
Still working on the best solution for 2004+ indicators.
Pre 2004 already taken care of.
The shaved LEDs are working fine is Suzi. So maybe shave down a T10 bipolar LED for your turn signal or use 2 diodes and a regular mini wedge LED.
this is what i'm going to put on the Neutral Bulb and Turn Signal Indicator Bulb
(http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/3/6/9/8/0/3/webimg/390139038_o.jpg)
i know with the Turn Signal Indicator Bulb, it has to be Non-Polarized
though the LED Bulb that i got is Polarized but i'm putting a RECTIFIER Chip that can be bought from
any RadioShack or electronic Store, this one:
(http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2160490w345.jpg)
its called: Full-Wave Bridge Rectifier, and last time i checked it was $2.19 on my Local RadioShack Store
doesn't matter what polarity you put in the input, the output stays the same
Once i get my LED, then i'll buy this one and let you know if it works or not
most likely tonight...
Those LEDs work fine. Only problem has been that 2004+ they changed the bulb size in the indicators from T10 to a mini wedge. Non-polarized amber and green (or any color) are easy to get in standard T10 but haven't found them for the mini wedge yet.
Mini-wedge LEDs are smaller and generally not as bright as T10 size. Some of the T10 ones are blindingly bright.
As I mentioned, I shaved down some T10's for use in Suzi (a 2009) and they're working fine. I have some mini wedge ones coming in that might be non-polarized. I do have other mini's but didn't like the brightness which is why I shaved down T10's to fit in the sockets. The other thing Suzuki did was make the inner hole smaller. Inside the housing there is a hole that helps support the bulb. Had to enlarge that a little for the non-polarized LED as it was longer in length and slightly too big. It is a smaller hole than the hole the rubber socket goes in. It is interesting to discover the subtle differences between different years of GS500's.
Full wave bridge works as well as 2 diodes. With the full wave bridge, you won't need to locate a ground. Just connect turn signal lines to inputs. Connect the + and - outputs to the LED. It will work just fine.
One other interesting idea: rewire things a little. Drill an extra hole to mount a green LED for neutral. Then use the 2 green ones (neutral and turn) for a left and right turn signal indicator. Then you don't need non-polarized LEDs and you can know which way you have your flashers going. If I do that, I'd move the caps so the turn signals are on the far left and right, with oil and high in the middle 2 positions.
Quote from: adidasguy on August 01, 2011, 05:58:35 PM
Those LEDs work fine. Only problem has been that 2004+ they changed the bulb size in the indicators from T10 to a mini wedge. Non-polarized amber and green (or any color) are easy to get in standard T10 but haven't found them for the mini wedge yet.
Mini-wedge LEDs are smaller and generally not as bright as T10 size. Some of the T10 ones are blindingly bright.
As I mentioned, I shaved down some T10's for use in Suzi (a 2009) and they're working fine. I have some mini wedge ones coming in that might be non-polarized. I do have other mini's but didn't like the brightness which is why I shaved down T10's to fit in the sockets. The other thing Suzuki did was make the inner hole smaller. Inside the housing there is a hole that helps support the bulb. Had to enlarge that a little for the non-polarized LED as it was longer in length and slightly too big. It is a smaller hole than the hole the rubber socket goes in. It is interesting to discover the subtle differences between different years of GS500's.
Full wave bridge works as well as 2 diodes. With the full wave bridge, you won't need to locate a ground. Just connect turn signal lines to inputs. Connect the + and - outputs to the LED. It will work just fine.
One other interesting idea: rewire things a little. Drill an extra hole to mount a green LED for neutral. Then use the 2 green ones (neutral and turn) for a left and right turn signal indicator. Then you don't need non-polarized LEDs and you can know which way you have your flashers going. If I do that, I'd move the caps so the turn signals are on the far left and right, with oil and high in the middle 2 positions.
According to the engineer at superbrightled (called one the other day) they can't make a non-polarized #74 led... Think a shaved down T10 is probably the best way to go.
What about trying a smaller bulb like http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x.htm
If the T10 is to much a pain I can easily add a full wave rectifier to my console harness (it is already soldered at the contact points to attach to the gs500e harness so simply removing the solder and re soldering the rectifier in..
Gotta buy the correct colors this time tho.
Edit:
Hell I might just go ahead and add the full wave rectifier... gives me an excuse to buy a new variable wattage soldiering iron (my old 35 watt is burned out)
Installed a full wave rectifer and upgraded everything to LEDs (using wled-5x UV for the gauge cluster and 74x colored leds for each indicator... will upgrade with pictures tonight of the console fully lit)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd450/numus2/IMAG0055.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd450/numus2/IMAG0054.jpg)
The UV bulbs may not be bright enough for this application and might have to switch back to the red ones :(
Switched from the original all white bulbs to - Red 74x - Oil, Blue 74x - High Beam, Green 74x - Turn Signal and Cool White 74x - Neutral
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd450/numus2/IMG_0148.jpg)
WLED-5x Red
(http://i.imgur.com/jE52W.jpg)
Wled-5x UV
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd450/numus2/IMG_0154.jpg)
The red's are much brighter but I think the UV may be bright enough (since the engine lights i am adding are UV also)
Note: Camera's have a UV filter on them so they appear blue.. but the real color is purplish-blue (blacklight).
Looks great man.... I'd love to do this mod
Quote from: lucky4034 on August 13, 2011, 08:11:54 PM
Looks great man.... I'd love to do this mod
All the parts cost about 12 bucks (not including soldering iron, shrink tube and solder) and only involves rewiring 2 wires on the gauge harness (to install the full wave rectifier.. although if you are going LED turn signals you should probably just install 2 zener diodes and ground the other side of the turn signal LED).
A zener diode is a whole different beast. You do not want to use that type. A zener allows voltage to flow when it exceeds its breakdown voltage - hence they are often used in voltage regulators.
You want plain old diodes - like a 1n4001 or some other plain diode with a minimum voltage of 24v or more and current of 1/4 amp or more (so they don't fry with a voltage or current spike)
All About ZENER Diodes from WIKIPEDIA
==============================
A Zener diode is a special kind of diode which allows current to flow in the forward direction same as an ideal diode, but will also permit it to flow in the reverse direction when the voltage is above a certain value known as the breakdown voltage, "Zener knee voltage" or "Zener voltage." The device was named after Clarence Zener, who discovered this electrical property.
A conventional solid-state diode will not allow significant current if it is reverse-biased below its reverse breakdown voltage. When the reverse bias breakdown voltage is exceeded, a conventional diode is subject to high current due to avalanche breakdown. Unless this current is limited by circuitry, the diode will be permanently damaged due to overheating. In case of large forward bias (current in the direction of the arrow), the diode exhibits a voltage drop due to its junction built-in voltage and internal resistance. The amount of the voltage drop depends on the semiconductor material and the doping concentrations.
A Zener diode exhibits almost the same properties, except the device is specially designed so as to have a greatly reduced breakdown voltage, the so-called Zener voltage. By contrast with the conventional device, a reverse-biased Zener diode will exhibit a controlled breakdown and allow the current to keep the voltage across the Zener diode close to the Zener breakdown voltage. For example, a diode with a Zener breakdown voltage of 3.2 V will exhibit a voltage drop of very nearly 3.2 V across a wide range of reverse currents. The Zener diode is therefore ideal for applications such as the generation of a reference voltage (e.g. for an amplifier stage), or as a voltage stabilizer for low-current applications.
Diode part numbers for different currents and voltages
Voltage 1 Amp part 3 Aamp part
50 V 1N4001 1N5400
100 V 1N4002 1N5401
200 V 1N4003 1N5402
300 V — 1N5403
400 V 1N4004 1N5404
500 V — 1N5405
600 V 1N4005 1N5406
800 V 1N4006 1N5407
1000 V 1N4007 1N5408
True
(http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/313661_10150808707930637_619010636_20778699_353911709_n.jpg)
2 white T10's for the gauges.
Blue T5 for the high-beam.
White T5 for the neutral light (green was too expensive on ebay). :oops:
Red T5 for the stupid light.
The LED bulbs are much easier to see during the daytime. Previously I had to put my hand over the gauges to block the sun to be able to tell if a light was on. Too bad the turn signal can't be easily switched :icon_rolleyes:
Quote from: Flying Pig on September 20, 2011, 06:52:41 AM
Too bad the turn signal can't be easily switched :icon_rolleyes:
Actually it is quite easy. Did it in my 1992, 1994 and 2009. read through past posts for the 2 or 3 different ways to do it.
OK, please "dumb" this all down for me. I have a 2004 GS 500 and the high beam light went out. I have already gone through the rounds with an online site and they told me that Suzuki no longer makes the lights (of the right size). Long story short, what LED do I need to buy and what do I need to do with it to replace the high beam light. PLEASE make it as simple as possible. After reading all the posts, do I buy the T10 and shave it down? I think I can do that?!?
Quote from: danster125 on September 20, 2011, 07:21:59 PM
OK, please "dumb" this all down for me. I have a 2004 GS 500 and the high beam light went out. I have already gone through the rounds with an online site and they told me that Suzuki no longer makes the lights (of the right size). Long story short, what LED do I need to buy and what do I need to do with it to replace the high beam light. PLEASE make it as simple as possible. After reading all the posts, do I buy the T10 and shave it down? I think I can do that?!?
If you are talking about the high beam indicator light, just get the 74x.. it fits perfectly.
First of all, thanks to all the posters for the inspiration to replace my warning lights with LEDs. My high beam indicator light had blown some time ago (was driving around on high beam for who knows how long :oops: ) so I needed to replace the warning light. Turns out that current T5 replacement globes are only 1.2W, down from the standard 1.7W for the high beam (3.4W for the others). We all know how hard it is to see these lights at the best of times so I was determined to go LED. The information here has been invaluable.
So today I set about doing the changeover and aside form accidentally reversing the diodes on the turn indicators (was told the wrong info at the shop) it has been a success.
I used white T5 LEDs since I could not get green T5s for neutral and turns. I figured just get all the same, the colour of the lens does get a little washed out but I figure I know which is what, so as long as its lit who really cares? :dunno_black:
For anyone in Australia (or outside for that matter) that wants to use Jaycar Electronics, I have kept a list of the part numbers and they are as follows:
T5 White LEDs x 4
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZD0380
12V 5W Zener Diode x 2
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZR1440
I replaced the Speedo and Tacho lights, but used Narva Arctic Ice Halogen T10 globes (had them from a packet of replacement headlight globes), they are quite bright and have a nice brilliant white colour like an LED, so I'll leave them in for now. I did buy some T10 LEDs, but not having a spread of light, they were quite average. The ones with spread were 9 times dearer and I saw no need since the halogens seem to be quite fine (and were free).
It cost me less than AUD$9.00 to do this conversion, plus some solder I already had, some heat shrink I already had and some patience (where can I buy that :) ).
As mentioned apart from having to unsolder everything to reverse the diodes, the conversion was fairly straightforward. Just make sure to test it all before putting it back together as the T5s are polarised so if they are in wrong way, they don't glow. :icon_mrgreen: Doing the turn indicator lamp was a PITA as there is not a lot of room or spare wire. But bascially I turned the Light Green wire into the positive feed to the dash LED (feeding the source Light Green and Black through the diodes first) and wired the return Black wire to the Black/White return earth wire that supplies the other warning lights with an earth. Works a treat.
So thanks again for the information and inspiration.
One reason for the confusion on the diodes is that those are the wrong kind. Should use regular diodes, not zener. A better part # would be 1N4001.
Bugger, oh well, it works for the moment. If I change it, I'll probably go with the other idea I saw of having individual turning warning lights (each side of the dash) and relocate the nuetral to a central location. Then the diodes become redundant.
Quote from: prmas on August 05, 2012, 12:39:40 AM
I have a much simpler answer to the indicator tell-tale modification. I just used a standard (but good quality) 6 volt T5 globe. It was an experiment and has been perfectly successful. As the light flashes, and it is mostly at idle when the voltage drops a little there is not enough "on" time for filament to get hot enough to "blow". Mine has been in there over 12 months with no problem. Being a standard tungsten filament it still produces a "yellow" light so the colour of the flashing light is still the same as standard, just brighter. It is not quite as bright as the LEDs but not far off. With the LED bulb my neutral light is now a different colour to the indicator tell-tale so effectively I now have four different colours.
I hope this might be some help as it is so simple but works.
Cheers
Macka
From my earlier post in http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=53366.msg712970#msg712970