Hi all ok as the the name suggests the bike starts and idles well but when I rev up and down just free revving it seems to take its time and on the road its got no guts to it. Ive taken the carbs off and im in process of cleaning them, Ive got the bowls off and im scared to undo the three screw things which im guessing are the jets. If I just soak the whole lot in carb cleaner should that be ok enough? cheers.
All good now I just soaked the whole lot and blown it out with compressed air so see how we go tommorow.
Make sure you set the float heights/fuel level in the carbs.You will also need to sync/balance them once you get them on and fired up.Set your idle after about a 20 minute ride to make sure everything is warmed up.
Yeah I checked the float height this morning and the bike has only done 20k so the sync should be on the money still. But cheers much appreciated.
Ok update problem still exists, but I do have my choke working again. But after slapping my head seriously I think I havnt routed my fuel hoses correctly I think I have my vacuum and breather hose in the wrong places so tommorow I'll tackle it and try again.
Spitball'n...
- Do you have an inline fuel filter?
- How is your air filter? The airbox? On the right side of the bike at the bottom is a tube with a cap on it - this runs down from the airbox. Take the cap off with a container beneath and drain the line.
- How are your spark plugs looking?
Michael
Just put new fuel filter in, new air filter, and new plugs. Well when I say new less than 6 months old.
Ok update carbs are clean, hoses routed correctly and no kinks, near new plugs and air filter, just installed in line fuel filter. Choke works again and well. But my problem is off the line. I have to twist the throttle to at least half because the motor bogs down till about 4 - 5k then it picks up and revs out fine. And when free revving it struggles till about 4k then revs out ok and when it revs down it gets down to 3k and still takes it time to settle down to idle. Please help I'm out of ideas lol.
is your bike 01 or later my is 09 had similar symtons i did the timing mod on ignition plate and found screws that mount it supertight but the pulse generator screws even tighter, used impact driver to remove in the process broke magnet in back of coil and wouldnt run right after that and had to replace whole pulse generator plate and coil as can not buy magnet seperatly .good luck
It bogs like it's running rich? Or is flat like it's lean? If it's carb related, than either your floats are off (just saying), mixture screws need adjusted, pilot jets are too big, or.......
Are your slides sticking at all? Loose diaphragm maybe?
You have Just installed an inline fuel filter and now have problems?
Remove the filter and see how it goes.
Michael
Was running bad before the filter but I'll take it out and see how it runs. I'll check the floats again, engine is totally stock. Not sure how rich or lean sounds, it just bogs down then revs up when I get above 4k
Normally I don't do this, but I disagree with Mister. I think a fuel filter would cause it to get worse with higher revs, not better.
I would really look at the diaphragms, needles, and slides. Sounds to me like the engine isn't producing enough pressure to lift the whole assemblies until higher rpm's.
Plugs gapped correctly? You make sure the leads were attached firmly?
At least one of the exhaust valves are too tight.
My GS suffered the same thing. I cleaned and adjusted the carbs a billion times because I was sure it had to be a carb problem.
Slow rev up and rev down - Could you have a broken slide spring ? or something else like that - how is the air filter ? Yea Big rich's sticking idea sounds good.
Now 4-5K is actually from stopped ? ... I mean you're taking off from a stop - I'd guess you have lean pilots. That is stock, go to 20's. Also make sure you dont have air leaks.
Bombjack: Tight valve wil lcause it to want to stall and die right after start up, if you give it throttle and keep it revved for 5 mins or so, it will usually run fine after that, unless its way tight, which then will stall when you let got of the throttle even when hot.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: Big Rich on August 10, 2011, 05:32:33 AM
Normally I don't do this, but I disagree with Mister. I think a fuel filter would cause it to get worse with higher revs, not better.
I would really look at the diaphragms, needles, and slides. Sounds to me like the engine isn't producing enough pressure to lift the whole assemblies until higher rpm's.
I agree it sounds counter-productive for a restrictive fuel filter to allow more fuel to get better Go as the revs (and fuel use) increases. However, it is an element that is known to cause issues. By removing it you remove something from the equation. That's why I suggested it. :thumb:
Michael
Did the valve check all within spec bike has only done 20 000k. Plugs are correct, and same problem before and after the filter. Slides and diaphragms looked good and moved freely, I ran the bike without the airbox yesterday quickly to check there movement and they moved together and ok, all the springs were ok too. Would too much fuel in the bowl cause this? I'll triple check my float bowl height then pull the carbs off again if they check out ok again. By the smells of things I think im rich and I'd like to no how that happens when nothing has been touched. Here is what I've done to the motor so far: valve clearance check(all in spec), head re tension, new plugs, new air filter, in line fuel filter, carb clean, new exhaust gaskets, (stock carbs and exhaust).
Is your air filter stock too?IE, you haven't swapped for a Lunchbox, still got the original air filter configuration?
Michael
Yep stock filter box and paper element.
Quote from: aussiegs on August 10, 2011, 02:06:51 PM
Did the valve check all within spec bike has only done 20 000k. Plugs are correct, and same problem before and after the filter. Slides and diaphragms looked good and moved freely, I ran the bike without the airbox yesterday quickly to check there movement and they moved together and ok, all the springs were ok too. Would too much fuel in the bowl cause this? I'll triple check my float bowl height then pull the carbs off again if they check out ok again. By the smells of things I think im rich and I'd like to no how that happens when nothing has been touched. Here is what I've done to the motor so far: valve clearance check(all in spec), head re tension, new plugs, new air filter, in line fuel filter, carb clean, new exhaust gaskets, (stock carbs and exhaust).
The floats can have the same effect as running rich,if they're set to high. http://www.bbburma.net/FloatHeight.htm
Ok I did the bowl drain float height check my fuel level is about 5mm above the gasket of the bowl, is this enough of affect it?
According to the link that Ben2go provided, it should be level with the float bowl gasket.
Quote from: Big Rich on August 12, 2011, 01:38:03 AM
According to the link that Ben2go provided, it should be level with the float bowl gasket.
True I would put the pics of the level up but I'm on my iPhone with no access to a computer. I can imagine the fruck around getting the level just right I just hope this cures my problem.
Quote from: aussiegs on August 12, 2011, 05:52:37 PM
Quote from: Big Rich on August 12, 2011, 01:38:03 AM
According to the link that Ben2go provided, it should be level with the float bowl gasket.
True I would put the pics of the level up but I'm on my iPhone with no access to a computer.
You can email photos to your photobucket account - assuming you have one.
Michael
You can email photos to your photobucket account - assuming you have one.
Michael
[/quote]
I link from my Facebook.
I don't know how sensitive the GS carbs are to float level, but normally the float height tolerance is only +/- 1mm. So 5mm over the gasket is pretty big.
Quote from: aussiegs on August 12, 2011, 12:45:23 AM
Ok I did the bowl drain float height check my fuel level is about 5mm above the gasket of the bowl, is this enough of affect it?
That would cause running issues.The level should be right at the split between the float bowl and carb body on both carbs.
Ah well let the fun begin hope this is my cause, but will have to wait till I get home from holidays lol. Thanks to all for help I'll keep it updated see how we go.
I did my U tube check with my floats on average there about 3 - 5mm above the float bowl, so after searching round the forum I got a pretty good idea on what and how to do. So after doing that and checking my measurements etc I again did the U tube check and my levels are still the same. Ive got my haynes infront of me ive printed off a few pages to make sure but no matter what I do the fuel level wont change. Ive even bent the tab to give me a gap of 11mm and still no change. So far ive only done this to one carb so once I get one right the other one will be easier hopefully. Any ideas????
I have admitted defeat! Bike is going into the shop Tuesday. :bowdown:
Quote from: aussiegs on August 17, 2011, 08:17:44 PM
I did my U tube check with my floats on average there about 3 - 5mm above the float bowl, so after searching round the forum I got a pretty good idea on what and how to do. So after doing that and checking my measurements etc I again did the U tube check and my levels are still the same. Ive got my haynes infront of me ive printed off a few pages to make sure but no matter what I do the fuel level wont change. Ive even bent the tab to give me a gap of 11mm and still no change. So far ive only done this to one carb so once I get one right the other one will be easier hopefully. Any ideas????
This sounds like a bad float needle and seat.Possibly a bad O ring on the seat.These are also called fuel valves.
Went out and changed my o rings all if them except the pilot screw one I'm leaving that to ppl who no better than me. Still the same problem. Buggered if I no what's going on.
Would timing cause my problems??? Just thinking out loud.
Quote from: aussiegs on August 20, 2011, 08:45:35 PM
Would timing cause my problems??? Just thinking out loud.
Let's recap...
Spark good?
Airfilter?
Fuel flow?
Exhaust?
Jetting?
Battery?
Airflow screws?
Idle screw?
Throttle response?
Choke?
Valves?
Spitball'n... did you do the 'spray cabs to test for air leaks' trick?
'bout only thing left to test would be timing
Michael
I take it that's the with the bike running coat the carbs etc with soapy water and watch for bubbles or where it's been sucked in? Also checked the plugs right plug was good left plug was wet so bit of extra fuel going in there.
That isn't extra fuel in one- unless it's jetted differently than the other carb. A wet plug is usually because of a weak spark (or lack of compression). Are you sure the dry plug is getting gas?
The actual timing on a GS is pretty spot on since it's an electronic ignition.
Spray joins of the outside of the carb boots - black things between carbs and engine - with some WD40, while the bike is running, to see if the engine responds differently (ignore arrow).
(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h55/GDunlavey/DSCF0025idlescrew.jpg)
One dry spark plug one wet one...
Have you done the "arc spark plug on side of engine block" test?
Care to share a pic of your spark plugs so we can see how they look?
Michael
Now that's interesting. Yeah other plug looks good how a correct running plug should look, so does the other plug. But this is weird the plugs are less than 6 months old but yeah I'll chuck new plugs and put a meter over the coils.
Oh k I'll do that mister I'll throw up pics of my bowls and plugs tommorow
Quote from: aussiegs on August 20, 2011, 11:57:49 PM
Oh k I'll do that mister I'll throw up pics of my bowls and plugs tommorow
The idea with the Spray test is to leave everything as it is, as it would be while riding down the road. And just spray into the area. The fumes will get sucked in if there are any leaks and you'll hear the engine tone change as a result of the spray.
Michael
I'll give it a go, at this point I'll do voodoo to avoid taking it to the shop cause I just no I'm gonna get raped.
Just a thought.....are both your chokes opening and closing properly? If one is sticking, that cylinder would run rich, and it would bog down. When the revs are up enough, the choke makes very little difference.........seems to match your symptoms.
Yep I checked there movement there opening and closing in unison.
Ok totally weird update, while riding to a mates place to borrow his multimeter to check the coils and HT leads just before a bend in the road there was a sudden surge in power and whoallaaa, off she went like a shower of shaZam!! It was like nothing was wrong in the first place geez its got guts now. Im still taking it to the shop and get them to do safety check on it 'fresh set of eyes' to see if ive missed anything since putting it back together which im ok with but yeah. When I got to my mates the bike was blowing off alot of unburnt fuel so I'm suspecting a faulty spark plug (first one Ive come across). Anyhoo I checked the coils etc and everything was right on the upper tolerances for ohm resistance on the coil and HT leads, so hope that means all is well and strong. I'll put up pics of the bowls that people has been asking for.
(http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/319483_10150300391919879_533534878_7729388_1921737_n.jpg)
(http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/308256_10150300392064879_533534878_7729394_902834_n.jpg)
Thanks to all for hints and suggestions, the shop told me I had contaminated fuel, along with an idle mix tweak and a carb sync, they also found my head set bearings aren't quite seated which rattled me a bit. But I parted with $120 and a job to tackle tomorrow morning. The shop actually did a good job my bike is much torquier and responsive now :D! Again thanks to all for the help.