Wiring the new start solonoid and can't use the current connections i have.. But just noticed something really odd
http://i.imgur.com/vtHAr.jpg
The 2 red wires go into one side of the fuse.. b ut the other side of the fuse has nothing? Am i missing something?
Maybe the PO bypassed the fuse? maybe PO blew the fuse and didn't have a spare?
I am getting absolutely no power now when the new relay...
Ok so apperently there is a wire that is suppose to go from the bat to the red wire on the rectifer and the engine switch.. no idea how my bike worked without this in the first place...
NEw solonoid on... wont even attempt to click or fire.. no idea why not
Turns out the new solonoid just wont work... Put the old one one with my modified fuse and it cranked right up :(
Time to get out your volt meter and wiring diagram.
Possibly you accidentally pulled out the missing wire and its hiding somewhere or something else.
If lights don't even come on, it should be easy to find and be really close to the battery and fuse.
battery goes to fuse. From fuse goes everywhere else. Should be easy to trace.
Quote from: adidasguy on August 09, 2011, 06:00:58 PM
Time to get out your volt meter and wiring diagram.
Possibly you accidentally pulled out the missing wire and its hiding somewhere or something else.
If lights don't even come on, it should be easy to find and be really close to the battery and fuse.
battery goes to fuse. From fuse goes everywhere else. Should be easy to trace.
It would have to come off the positive battery before the starter solonoid... There is nothing except the 1 main battery wire.. I ran a new wire/fuse to the 2 red wires that go to the regulator and the ignition switch.
http://electricwiringdiagram.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/wiring-diagram-schematic-suzuki-gs500e-motorcycle.jpg
You can see in the diagram that appears to be all that those go to..
Quote from: numus on August 09, 2011, 06:39:32 PM
Quote from: adidasguy on August 09, 2011, 06:00:58 PM
Time to get out your volt meter and wiring diagram.
Possibly you accidentally pulled out the missing wire and its hiding somewhere or something else.
If lights don't even come on, it should be easy to find and be really close to the battery and fuse.
battery goes to fuse. From fuse goes everywhere else. Should be easy to trace.
It would have to come off the positive battery BEFORE the starter solonoid... There is nothing except the 1 main battery wire.. I ran a new wire/fuse to the 2 red wires that go to the regulator and the start engine switch.
Maybe there was suppose to be a bridge from the fuse to the right side of the solonoid?
This would explain why I was having power troubles when i removed the fuse original and had to short the solonoid to get it to work the first time... Possibly there was a corroded connection from the fuse to the right stem of the solonoid..
I see the problem.Give me a second and I will post a pic er two.
Quote from: numus on August 09, 2011, 06:39:32 PM
It would have to come off the positive battery before the starter solonoid... There is nothing except the 1 main battery wire.. I ran a new wire/fuse to the 2 red wires that go to the regulator and the ignition switch.
http://electricwiringdiagram.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/wiring-diagram-schematic-suzuki-gs500e-motorcycle.jpg
You can see in the diagram that appears to be all that those go to..
Thanks for that link. Im sure I will need it later on sometime so i made sure to save a copy of it.
Here is how my purple bike is wired.It uses the red and green connectors to power the fuse and then onto the rectifier through the red wire.The black and white is ground.The yellow with green stripe is to activate the starter relay, when the starter button is pushed, and all the safety switches are working properly.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/starterrelayfuse5.jpg)
Here is how my other bikes are wired.
Separate fuse block.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/starterrelayfuse2.jpg)
One red wire comes from the red battery wire on the starter relay, goes through the fuse block, and out to rectifier.So there would be two red wires at the starter relay with this set up.The big one to the battery and the smaller one to the fuse block.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/starterrelayfuse3.jpg)
I can honestly say that I don't know why there is a second red wire on your bike,unless the fuse was bypassed.
What i dont understand is... On your pic with the red and green block, the one that doesn't have a wire going into it is the other side of the fuse.. how is the other side of the fuse hooked up to the red wire going to the positive battery? I couldn't find any continuity across the fuse to that post...
In the end I just ran a wire off the battery itself to a fuse, and then onto the rectifer.. The reason I have 2 red wires while you have one is that 1 is the red wire to the rectifer, the other is the red wire to the ignition switch... Your ignition switch probably connects later on the wire (as indicated in the wiring diagram) while mine just connects at the same point...
Quote from: numus on August 10, 2011, 12:32:35 PM
What i dont understand is... On your pic with the red and green block, the one that doesn't have a wire going into it is the other side of the fuse.. how is the other side of the fuse hooked up to the red wire going to the positive battery? I couldn't find any continuity across the fuse to that post...
In the end I just ran a wire off the battery itself to a fuse, and then onto the rectifer.. The reason I have 2 red wires while you have one is that 1 is the red wire to the rectifer, the other is the red wire to the ignition switch... Your ignition switch probably connects later on the wire (as indicated in the wiring diagram) while mine just connects at the same point...
Mine has no power to the empty port.It is blocked.There should be a bus bar inside the connector that takes power directly from the starter relay at the battery wire connection and sends power through the fuse.
Quote from: ben2go on August 10, 2011, 12:39:27 PM
Quote from: numus on August 10, 2011, 12:32:35 PM
What i dont understand is... On your pic with the red and green block, the one that doesn't have a wire going into it is the other side of the fuse.. how is the other side of the fuse hooked up to the red wire going to the positive battery? I couldn't find any continuity across the fuse to that post...
In the end I just ran a wire off the battery itself to a fuse, and then onto the rectifer.. The reason I have 2 red wires while you have one is that 1 is the red wire to the rectifer, the other is the red wire to the ignition switch... Your ignition switch probably connects later on the wire (as indicated in the wiring diagram) while mine just connects at the same point...
Mine has no power to the empty port.It is blocked.There should be a bus bar inside the connector that takes power directly from the starter relay at the battery wire connection and sends power through the fuse.
You positive? That would be a diagonal bar crossing the starter switch back to the right post on the solonoid.. Seems like a dumb setup since they could have put the wires on the left (blocked side) and run the bar straight to the solonoid... either way it seems this is what was causing random power issues on my bike.. Since i removed the entire fuse assembly i just have the starter solonoid with ground and the starter button and then an independent wire running to a fuse and then to the rectifer and engine switch.... I just noticed you are running 20 amp fuses... I put a 25 amp in but should i swap it back down to a 20 amp?
When you read a wiring diagram, it shows what connects to what. It doesn't necessarily indicate where things are connected together unless you actually see a connector. That means, even though a red line as a few branches coming from it (on the diagram) those points could be connected together anywhere. So it can be that a couple wires make their connection on one side of a connector. That's what usually happens. Rarely will you find splices in the middle of wires.
A wiring diagram is drawn so you can read it. If you see 2 red wires on one side of a connector, they can go to most any 2 places the red wires on the diagram go. If a wiring diagram truly shows where things are hooked, it could be unreadable. Something like a ground wire or power wire would often daisy chain from one point to the next, even though the wiring diagram shows one long line with various lines coming off of it at random locations.
I hope this makes sense when you read the diagram and compare it to the bike.
The bus bar is the way mine works.I would stick to a 20A fuse.I would feel safer.The fuse protects the wiring from overloads and fires.If the wiring is rated for 20A and it gets 25A it could catch fire or at least melt some connections and burn out some electrical parts.
Quote from: adidasguy on August 10, 2011, 12:45:36 PM
When you read a wiring diagram, it shows what connects to what. It doesn't necessarily indicate where things are connected together unless you actually see a connector. That means, even though a red line as a few branches coming from it (on the diagram) those points could be connected together anywhere. So it can be that a couple wires make their connection on one side of a connector. That's what usually happens. Rarely will you find splices in the middle of wires.
A wiring diagram is drawn so you can read it. If you see 2 red wires on one side of a connector, they can go to most any 2 places the red wires on the diagram go. If a wiring diagram truly shows where things are hooked, it could be unreadable. Something like a ground wire or power wire would often daisy chain from one point to the next, even though the wiring diagram shows one long line with various lines coming off of it at random locations.
I hope this makes sense when you read the diagram and compare it to the bike.
Makes total sense.. I find myself praying now that the PO didn't replace random wires with red wires... I can easily trace the red wire to the rectifer (since it is about 6 inchs in length) but the other one I just assumed went to the engine start switch.. and since when i connected it to the positive terminal the entire bike power system worked, i assumed that I was correct... going to double check it after work tho.
Quote from: ben2go on August 10, 2011, 12:47:25 PM
The bus bar is the way mine works.I would stick to a 20A fuse.I would feel safer.The fuse protects the wiring from overloads and fires.If the wiring is rated for 20A and it gets 25A it could catch fire or at least melt some connections and burn out some electrical parts.
Oh I believe it.. Just saying it is an incredibly stupid design if that is how suzuki did it..
This is the modification i made to the power system.. seems to work much better now (getting much better starts and power seems to not be as finicky).
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd450/numus2/IMAG0047.jpg)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd450/numus2/IMAG0046.jpg)
Just make sure your connections are tight, and that they can touch each other or metal, and roll with it.
Quote from: ben2go on August 10, 2011, 03:39:22 PM
Just make sure your connections are tight, and that they can touch each other or metal, and roll with it.
The connections that you see that are frayed are just my turn signal relay wires... i really need to replace those crimps but dont have any small gauge wire female connectors to replace them with now.. the others are incredibly tight.,,, I might replace the ones i did on the starter solonoid and solder the next ones.. havent decided yet
Those crimp on connectors: One way to insure a good hold is to:
1. Slip a little piece of shrink tubing down the wire (about 1/2" of it)
2. Crimp the connector bare (remove the plastic that comes with it)
3. Now add solder to the crimp
4. Slide that piece of shrink tubing over the crimp/solder joint and shrink it down with a heat gun or match or lighter
You can get connectors at Radio Shack. They also have the round single wire ones though they are slightly larger than the Suzuki ones.
Quote from: adidasguy on August 10, 2011, 05:39:39 PM
Those crimp on connectors: One way to insure a good hold is to:
1. Slip a little piece of shrink tubing down the wire (about 1/2" of it)
2. Crimp the connector bare (remove the plastic that comes with it)
3. Now add solder to the crimp
4. Slide that piece of shrink tubing over the crimp/solder joint and shrink it down with a heat gun or match or lighter
You can get connectors at Radio Shack. They also have the round single wire ones though they are slightly larger than the Suzuki ones.
Good idea.. I am eventually going to be replacing every connector on the bike (they are all corroded so not making the best of connections). ..
Just realized from that picture how bent my left footpeg is :(
So the bike started right up and I started to ride.. When i hit 5th at about 45-50 the engine died... I then realized the choke was all the way forward (must not have pushed it back like i thought i did)... Would this cause the engine/power system to die?
First time i have ever forgetting to push the choke forward :(
But since i just rewired the electrical system I want to make sure i didnt screw it up somewhere that caused this...
The choke would possibly cause the engine to die,but it wouldn't cause and electrical issues.
Quote from: ben2go on August 11, 2011, 01:36:33 PM
The choke would possibly cause the engine to die,but it wouldn't cause and electrical issues.
I dont think the electrical system died... Since it still tried to turn over when I hit the starter.. Just wouldn't turn over...
I am guessing that was because gas was sitting on the spark plugs because of the choke?
All choke does is introduce more air to the carb afaik.
Quote from: jacob_ns on August 12, 2011, 07:33:19 PM
All choke does is introduce more air to the carb afaik.
I thought it flooded it with more gas.. hense why you can foul your plugs when they get wet..
Quote from: numus on August 12, 2011, 08:00:04 PM
Quote from: jacob_ns on August 12, 2011, 07:33:19 PM
All choke does is introduce more air to the carb afaik.
I thought it flooded it with more gas.. hense why you can foul your plugs when they get wet..
No gas flows through the carbs unless there is a vacuum from the engine.Our carbs are CV type and do not use an accelerator pump to squirt/inject fuel into the intake.
Quote from: ben2go on August 12, 2011, 08:22:56 PM
Quote from: numus on August 12, 2011, 08:00:04 PM
Quote from: jacob_ns on August 12, 2011, 07:33:19 PM
All choke does is introduce more air to the carb afaik.
I thought it flooded it with more gas.. hense why you can foul your plugs when they get wet..
No gas flows through the carbs unless there is a vacuum from the engine.Our carbs are CV type and do not use an accelerator pump to squirt/inject fuel into the intake.
Unless ours operates totally different, I could have sworn the choke decreases the air in the carb, decreasing the pressure which decreases the vaporization point of gasoline causing more gasoline to be pulled into the engine...
A gs choke is a fuel passage that opens sucking fuel from the front bottom side ways hole in the float assy, through the front part with the retaining ring through the side - the outside brass tube into the top side of the mouth. A bit of vacuum in the manifold gets a bit of fuel that way instead of only through the air screw ... you open the throttle it pretty much vanished past maybe 1/4 throttle. You get it revving under load you're pretty much like running an extra 1-2 turns on mix screw ... its pretty insignificant past pure idle and maybne 1/4 throttle.
Cool.
buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on August 12, 2011, 09:34:55 PM
A gs choke is a fuel passage that opens sucking fuel from the front bottom side ways hole in the float assy, through the front part with the retaining ring through the side - the outside brass tube into the top side of the mouth. A bit of vacuum in the manifold gets a bit of fuel that way instead of only through the air screw ... you open the throttle it pretty much vanished past maybe 1/4 throttle. You get it revving under load you're pretty much like running an extra 1-2 turns on mix screw ... its pretty insignificant past pure idle and maybne 1/4 throttle.
Cool.
buddha.
So you are saying it wouldn't cause the engine to stall?