I think that forums like this are often used to get and give advice for the do-it-yourself type of person. Many people have little or no experience in mechanics, yet want to learn, and want to do their own maintenance and repair work...and write in for help and advice.....
One of the problems with DIY..is you do need some level of tools in your box....sometimes some specialized tools, which can be somewhat costly.....
It has been my experience with cars, airplanes and motorcycles.....If you price out the repair or maintenance at a dealership...the cost (parts and labor), will be almost exactly the same as you doing the job yourself....including you buying the tools......(you pay yourself $0 for labor).
This means, for instance on the first oil change, you get all the needed tools "for free" and every oil change after that costs a mere fraction of what the dealer would charge........
This way, over a lifetime...you amass a nice collection of useful tools, which can then be used on many other DIY projects!!
I have always been sorry when getting ripped off at a dealership...
I have never been sorry for buying a good tool!!!
Cookie
Sorry to threadjack but I'd like to add my 2 cents to this one. I've tinkered since I was a kid and worked as a technician (fancy word for mechanic) for close to a decade now. I have owned cheap and expensive tools. Here's what I have learned along the way:
One good tool is better than repeatedly buying a cheap tool. A good tool will also do the job better. It will be easier to use and less likely to damage what you are working on. Here is some advice I give when people ask me about tools...
I see 3 grades of tools: cheap, home owner quality and professional quality. All 3 have their uses. My traveling tool kit is made up of cheap and home owner quality tools. It is not something I use on a regular basis but it has all the tools I would need in most scenarios. And while I would be pissed if it was lost/stolen I wouldn't be out a ton of money. Some of Harbor Freight's stuff are decent cheap tools. And some of the stuff at Advance Auto, Autozone, Home Depot... are decent cheap tools. Sears Craftsman "Evolve" tools are also decent cheap tools. Most of the Craftsman stuff I consider to be home owner grade. The combination wrenches are short (less leverage). In fact I prefer the Evolve wrenches due to their length. The Craftsman ratchets are rough and have a relatively large swing arc but they are durable and get the job done. Sears now has a line of polished tools that are a step above their regular stuff. Most of those tools would fall into the professional category.
If you have the money, nothing beats "pro" grade tools. In most cases Snap On is the top of the line. In my experience, Snap On makes the best wrenches. They are strong, provide excellent leverage, and are the least likely to round off fasteners. One place Snap On is not #1 is ratchets. Matco makes the best ratchets. Their fine tooth gear heads are smooth, strong and only require a 4 degree swing arc (great in tight places). They have a superior locking flex head design too. One pro grade brand I really dislike is Mac. I have never bought a Mac tool that has lasted. Mac sockets break often and their ratchets are inferior to Matco and Snap On. Also their wrenches don't "feel" very good (ergonomics?). And the greatest invention to come along in my time as a mechanic are Gear Wrenches. One of those "why didn't I think of it" ideas. The original GearWrench brand is still the best. I also have some locking flex head gear wrenches made by SK that come in very handy sometimes.
And before you run out and buy the best, here is some great advice my old boss/mentor gave me when I was starting out. First of all, buy the cheapest toolbox you can. All it does it hold tools. Instead of buying a $5,000 Snap On box, buy a $1,000 Harbor Freight box and fill it with $4,000 worth of Snap On tools. Secondly, unless you borrow a tool 2 or 3 times you don't really need to buy it. And thirdly, only buy tools for what you work on. If you don't have a '72 Monte Carlo in your driveway you probably don't need SAE tools. Lots of the pre-packaged tool kits have metric and SAE tools. If you are only working on your GS (or any car produced in the last 20 or so years) you only need metric tools. And even within them there are only certain sizes you will use on a regular basis. One thing I did when I was starting out was buy mid-grade sockets (Sunex brand) and as they were broken/lost I replaced them with a Snap On. Those Sunex sockets proved to be pretty decent and I still have most of them in service :thumb:
Rant ended...
-Jessie
Only thing to add ... Snap on sockets absolutely rock ... I only have 1 though, cost me near $6-7 ... my 10 mm, but before that the 10mm craftsmen ones, I went through 3 ... in the 10 years since, just that 1 ... actually its saved me from going through 3 more so the craftsmen also lasts longer (cos I dont use it on the ones I know are tough).
The 10 is the most often used obviously with a jap bike ... the 8 also is used heavily, however I suspect the 8 being almost the same wall thickness as the 10 ... is stronger cos its a smaller bolt ... it tends to be tightened less and hence the socket dont get as much stress.
Good to know about Mac ... but I wont stop at nothing but snap on if I am going above craftsman.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on September 13, 2011, 04:21:31 AM
Sorry to threadjack but I'd like to add my 2 cents to this one. I've tinkered since I was a kid and worked as a technician (fancy word for mechanic) for close to a decade now. I have owned cheap and expensive tools. Here's what I have learned along the way:
One good tool is better than repeatedly buying a cheap tool. A good tool will also do the job better. It will be easier to use and less likely to damage what you are working on. Here is some advice I give when people ask me about tools...
I see 3 grades of tools: cheap, home owner quality and professional quality. All 3 have their uses. My traveling tool kit is made up of cheap and home owner quality tools. It is not something I use on a regular basis but it has all the tools I would need in most scenarios. And while I would be pissed if it was lost/stolen I wouldn't be out a ton of money. Some of Harbor Freight's stuff are decent cheap tools. And some of the stuff at Advance Auto, Autozone, Home Depot... are decent cheap tools. Sears Craftsman "Evolve" tools are also decent cheap tools. Most of the Craftsman stuff I consider to be home owner grade. The combination wrenches are short (less leverage). In fact I prefer the Evolve wrenches due to their length. The Craftsman ratchets are rough and have a relatively large swing arc but they are durable and get the job done. Sears now has a line of polished tools that are a step above their regular stuff. Most of those tools would fall into the professional category.
If you have the money, nothing beats "pro" grade tools. In most cases Snap On is the top of the line. In my experience, Snap On makes the best wrenches. They are strong, provide excellent leverage, and are the least likely to round off fasteners. One place Snap On is not #1 is ratchets. Matco makes the best ratchets. Their fine tooth gear heads are smooth, strong and only require a 4 degree swing arc (great in tight places). They have a superior locking flex head design too. One pro grade brand I really dislike is Mac. I have never bought a Mac tool that has lasted. Mac sockets break often and their ratchets are inferior to Matco and Snap On. Also their wrenches don't "feel" very good (ergonomics?). And the greatest invention to come along in my time as a mechanic are Gear Wrenches. One of those "why didn't I think of it" ideas. The original GearWrench brand is still the best. I also have some locking flex head gear wrenches made by SK that come in very handy sometimes.
And before you run out and buy the best, here is some great advice my old boss/mentor gave me when I was starting out. First of all, buy the cheapest toolbox you can. All it does it hold tools. Instead of buying a $5,000 Snap On box, buy a $1,000 Harbor Freight box and fill it with $4,000 worth of Snap On tools. Secondly, unless you borrow a tool 2 or 3 times you don't really need to buy it. And thirdly, only buy tools for what you work on. If you don't have a '72 Monte Carlo in your driveway you probably don't need SAE tools. Lots of the pre-packaged tool kits have metric and SAE tools. If you are only working on your GS (or any car produced in the last 20 or so years) you only need metric tools. And even within them there are only certain sizes you will use on a regular basis. One thing I did when I was starting out was buy mid-grade sockets (Sunex brand) and as they were broken/lost I replaced them with a Snap On. Those Sunex sockets proved to be pretty decent and I still have most of them in service :thumb:
Rant ended...
-Jessie
Jessie....Nice discussion and I totally agree....It's basically "you get what you pay for".........
But on the other hand..."just pay for what you need"
But you also have to be realistic..........The Snap on guy comes every Friday, and shows us all the cool stuff.....my boss can afford this stuff and ocasionaly buys something...my shop tool box is filled with mostly snap on stuff...and I really enjoy....(but these are not my personal tools) but personally, this stuff is way beyond my price range for the work I do myself on my own projects.........I am more the middle grade tool kind of guy..(like craftsman)...and I also have a lot of cheep-ass tool for where they are going to get lost easily (traveling) or somebody is going to borrow and break or not return....
When a pro mechanic pays top dollar for a top quality too...he is actually amortising that price over thousands or even tens of thousands of jobs...the cost is insignificant......
For the "casual" mechanic.....the cost of a new tool is a large portion of the cost of each project..........
As a "casual" mechanic...I have built two complete airplanes from scratch...overhauled three VW motors, one Triumph Car Motor, two aircraft engines, built boats, etc...etc.....all with medium grade tools, other than "special tools"...some of which I purchased at high cost...some of which I was able to borrow....
Cookie
The thing is casual mech - a crastsman around $1 a tool works just fine IMHO.
Its the repeated hammering that makes that next level neccesary.
For example, my 3/8 10mm hasn't got even close to being replaced from use.
I can honestly say most mechanics, even professional mechanics ... dont need more than 4-5 sockets that are the snap on quality. The 10mm and maybe 8mm in the 1/4" ,a 12 and maybe 14mm in the 3/8" and maybe 14 in the 1/2" drive, and maybe a few crescent wrenches.
Its the sizes that get used a lot and are structurally @ their outer stress limit that I can see need to be the high quality.
BTW I have got some very nice Northern tool ones - are they made in china ? probably, but they work great and stand up to a decent beating. Allen sockets come to mind. Though I have sheared off a few ... maybe time to consider snap on for those ?
Cool.
Buddha.
Really interesting read here. I enjoy reading what tech's (& diy guys) think and especially their opinions & history dealing with certain brands. My job is tools, and I have dozens of Snap On, Matco, Mac, Cornwell, and Independent tool truck customers. Working in the tool business, you discover the companies behind the names, Danaher, behind KDT, Craftsman, Matco, Armstrong and Gearwrench. Stanley behind Mac. RWD behind Snap On. Then the companies behind those companies, the actual makers of the tools, Lisle, Ingersoll-Rand, etc etc that list goes on and on. Many of the tools with name brands on them aren't made by those brands at all. Furthermore, talking with the reps for these companies, you find that some brands are all made at the same plant in Taiwan: Grey Pneumatic, Sunex, Adv (matco), ATD, etc. I agree with what BaltimoreGS said in the different levels of tool use. I sell alot of ATD but my guys don't particular like to buy it if they can get Lisle or KD in place of it. Their reason when I tell them 'I have it and use it' is "yea but you don't use it everyday." Which is true, even though I do use my tools alot. I am not a professional and don't hammer on them 8 hours a day, all week long. My tools mainly consist of a mix of brands. ATD and SK with a couple oddball Craftsman, for sockets. For ratchets, I really like the feel of Crafstman but I break them, so I use SK. I'd like to get a KD master set of screwdrivers but I'm still using my ATD master set, which have been fine. I do use SK for the #2 which I use all the time. Specialty tools, pullers, testers, etc I usually buy whatever is cheapest, and yes I have broken some. Warranty is a huge issue in tools and most brands have good warranties unless it is obvious that you abused it. I laugh sometimes when the guys want to warranty tools that are obviously well used and years old. I can understand 'lifetime' warranty but if it looks like the Channelocks are 14 years old and the teeth are worn down from use, do you honestly feel you should get another pair because you 'used' them? That is different from the handle breaking off.
But back to the point. I agree with doing your own work, learning how to do it and buying what you need to do it. I don't think it is necessary to buy top of the line tools to get the job done if you aren't doing this as your profession. Before you buy, look at what you are buying, and see if you can figure out who makes it. Unless you simply want the sticker on the label to say 'Snap On,' you could buy the exact same tool, without the label for half the price. Don't think I'm discouraging buying from those guys though. I get on two or three trucks a day. It is great talking to the guys and looking at the different set ups, the different tools. That is one of my favorite things about my job, getting on the trucks and digging around in there, seeing what is new and trying to get them to buy more of my tools!
After 40 years as a DIYer I can attest to the long term advantage of buying your own tools. I got a Craftsman mechanics set of tools for Christmas in 1976 and still have the original tools with the exception of a socket that I broke and two ratchets that wore out. Sears replaced all of them without question. I have gone from a small two drawer portble tool box to a large 6' two stage cabinet and three sets of shelves to house all of my tools. I can't recall the last time I paid anyone to do anything on my house or vehicles. There is no telling how much I've saved over the years by doing it myself and more importantly - I know it's done right!
I've also been told Waterloo Tool boxes is the company that makes most of the tool boxes for other tool manufacturers and re-badges them (Craftsman, Mac, etc.). So buy Waterloo, and get a Craftsman box with a different name. I can't wait for X-mas when I can get my own box so I can stop having to find all my tools constantly.
I'm a big fan of the lifetime warranty so when I do break a tool (and I have a few times, usually from trying to use it in a way it wasn't designed to be used) I can get it replaced next time I go to Sears. Oh I usually go with Craftsman due to the lifetime warranty. If I need a tool that is not going to be used but a hadfull of times I might get harbor freight and hope it works the few times I need it.
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on September 13, 2011, 09:38:43 AM
Really interesting read here. I enjoy reading what tech's (& diy guys) think and especially their opinions & history dealing with certain brands. My job is tools, and I have dozens of Snap On, Matco, Mac, Cornwell, and Independent tool truck customers. Working in the tool business, you discover the companies behind the names, Danaher, behind KDT, Craftsman, Matco, Armstrong and Gearwrench. Stanley behind Mac. RWD behind Snap On. Then the companies behind those companies, the actual makers of the tools, Lisle, Ingersoll-Rand, etc etc that list goes on and on. Many of the tools with name brands on them aren't made by those brands at all. Furthermore, talking with the reps for these companies, you find that some brands are all made at the same plant in Taiwan: Grey Pneumatic, Sunex, Adv (matco), ATD, etc. I agree with what BaltimoreGS said in the different levels of tool use. I sell alot of ATD but my guys don't particular like to buy it if they can get Lisle or KD in place of it. Their reason when I tell them 'I have it and use it' is "yea but you don't use it everyday." Which is true, even though I do use my tools alot. I am not a professional and don't hammer on them 8 hours a day, all week long. My tools mainly consist of a mix of brands. ATD and SK with a couple oddball Craftsman, for sockets. For ratchets, I really like the feel of Crafstman but I break them, so I use SK. I'd like to get a KD master set of screwdrivers but I'm still using my ATD master set, which have been fine. I do use SK for the #2 which I use all the time. Specialty tools, pullers, testers, etc I usually buy whatever is cheapest, and yes I have broken some. Warranty is a huge issue in tools and most brands have good warranties unless it is obvious that you abused it. I laugh sometimes when the guys want to warranty tools that are obviously well used and years old. I can understand 'lifetime' warranty but if it looks like the Channelocks are 14 years old and the teeth are worn down from use, do you honestly feel you should get another pair because you 'used' them? That is different from the handle breaking off.
But back to the point. I agree with doing your own work, learning how to do it and buying what you need to do it. I don't think it is necessary to buy top of the line tools to get the job done if you aren't doing this as your profession. Before you buy, look at what you are buying, and see if you can figure out who makes it. Unless you simply want the sticker on the label to say 'Snap On,' you could buy the exact same tool, without the label for half the price. Don't think I'm discouraging buying from those guys though. I get on two or three trucks a day. It is great talking to the guys and looking at the different set ups, the different tools. That is one of my favorite things about my job, getting on the trucks and digging around in there, seeing what is new and trying to get them to buy more of my tools!
OOoooo I got a good friend who sells KD and SK, phenomenal tools.
Surprised to know they also make em for snap on and the rest of the trucks, he says the trucks hate his company/business.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: mike__R on September 13, 2011, 12:34:08 PM
I'm a big fan of the lifetime warranty so when I do break a tool (and I have a few times, usually from trying to use it in a way it wasn't designed to be used) I can get it replaced next time I go to Sears. Oh I usually go with Craftsman due to the lifetime warranty. If I need a tool that is not going to be used but a hadfull of times I might get harbor freight and hope it works the few times I need it.
It's also good to read the terms of the lifetime warranties. Sears is pretty good about exchanging broken Craftsman branded tools with out question (though they won't exchange the chrome sockets if they looked egged out by an impact gun). With Sears Evolve branded tools and Harbor Freight Tools you have to have the original sales receipt to get them to honor the lifetime warranty. All the pro grade tools (Snap on, Matco, MAC..) are exchanged without proof of purchase.
-Jessie
I'll add that sometimes people work on bikes and cars themselves cause they can't afford to have someone else do it. In that case buying the cheap tool the first time might be what is needed.
I look at tool buying like I do furniture buying.
Good furniture will last a score of years. But a cheap bed is better than no bed.
So if I need a tool and budget is a concern I get a cheap one to get me by. However when it finally breaks I will go out and get the good quality at that point.
I like Repco and Snap On for my choice of brand. I still have sockets and spanners from when my father started as a fitter and turner, so about 45 years ago. Good quality Sid Chrome from a day when Sid was good.
I also have another opinion. If the right tool will save me 4 hours of swearing just once, then it is worth buying using and lending to my mates.
This is a cut and paste of an old post of mine but it goes along with this topic and it may be helpful for any newer people reading this thread :thumb:
-Jessie
Cut and paste:
There was a post the other day about the factory tool kit and how it has rather low quality tools. Here is the tool kit I carry in my tank bag. I knocked it over and spilled it while I was working on a bike this weekend so I snapped a few pictures while I reorganized it today. It has all the basic tools you'd need in a roadside emergency & for minor maintenance and repairs:
Standard and Phillips tip screwdrivers
Combination wrench set (8-19 and 22mm)
Pliers and wire cutters
Allen wrenches
3/8" drive socket set (10-19mm)
Tire pressure gauge
Tire plug kit and CO2 inflator
Latex gloves
When traveling I also throw in some mechanics wire and extra levers in case of a minor wreck. All the tools fit in a cheap shower tote that stows easily in a tank bag (too big to store under the seat). As Jared pointed out, you really only need 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19 and 22mm sizes on the GS so you could eliminate some sockets and wrenches to make the kit smaller and lighter :thumb:
-Jessie
Tools
(http://i735.photobucket.com/albums/ww360/jessiedoran/tools1.jpg)
Tools neatly stowed in a shower tote
(http://i735.photobucket.com/albums/ww360/jessiedoran/tools2.jpg)
Shower tote zippered closed
(http://i735.photobucket.com/albums/ww360/jessiedoran/tools3.jpg)
Not a tool I carry but one that I had in the bag from working on crustybmer's GS. This is a Toyota Special Service Tool that was used to change valve shims on 80's Camrys. Not something that is used much anymore so nobody really notices/cares when I borrow it from my old job :laugh:
(http://i735.photobucket.com/albums/ww360/jessiedoran/valvetool.jpg)
I figure there's 2 cases for doing it yourself:
1. You have time, but not money.
2. You're a masochist and "enjoy" doing the work yourself.
Outside of these cases, if you're working on something and it's not your actual job, you're probably not applying opportunity costs well. The cost of the tools and the value of the time you spend probably is greater than the cost of having a "specialist" do it.
In the first case, you might be stuck with whatever works, but if you expect to do something more than once, it's worth investing a step up from harbor freight specials.
In the second case, you probably also have tool fetish too.
Or 3: you want the repair to actually occur, and be done right, and not have other parts mysteriously broken or missing
QuoteOr 3: you want the repair to actually occur, and be done right, and not have other parts mysteriously broken or missing
Amen brother!
Quote from: PachmanP on September 13, 2011, 07:53:29 PM
I figure there's 2 cases for doing it yourself:
1. You have time, but not money.
2. You're a masochist and "enjoy" doing the work yourself.
Outside of these cases, if you're working on something and it's not your actual job, you're probably not applying opportunity costs well. The cost of the tools and the value of the time you spend probably is greater than the cost of having a "specialist" do it.
In the first case, you might be stuck with whatever works, but if you expect to do something more than once, it's worth investing a step up from harbor freight specials.
In the second case, you probably also have tool fetish too.
Yeah....But there is more than case one or two...
I know plenty of guys who have all the money they could ever spend in a lifetime...and they do their own work on everything........(they also have the best tools too)
Let me add something......A dealer works for only one thing...profit....this means the dealership mechanics are rewarded for doing a job fast...not necessarily good, but necessarily fast...
Sure there are some great mechanics working at dealerships...and there are a lot of hacks too..."specialist" is kind of a strong word for some I have seen...
So if you do the job yourself...there is no profit motive..so you will do the job well, and you know it's done correctly...........and it is fun.....and you can be proud of your work...and proud of your bike...
I am not familiar with dealer costs for typical maintenance...but maybe we can compare? An oil change for instance.....I can do it for $20 ~ $25....and 1/2 hour.....
Dealer is going to get $39 just for the oil, plus say $25 for a filter...and what, and hour of shop time at $85.....so figure $100 to $125??? (I've seen dealers even charge for "shop rags" and "environmental disposal" !!!)
Since I don't make anywhere near $100 an hour at my job.....I figure that if it takes me three hours to do a job that the dealer can do in one hour...I am still ahead of the game....add in that I do the work "right"... and at my own schedule....and don't have to leave my bike for days in a big heap of other bikes in the repair shop storage room...etc...I'm way ahead.......and can afford to buy more tools.......
How about a valve adjust.?....I have heard of dealers charging, but no doing.....or of dealers figuring 4 hours of shop time and $60 for 4 shims....so that ends up a $400 job? (which is supposed to be done every 3500 miles...on a $4000 bike????
OK maybe the mom and pop "local" shops are more reasonable..but not by much..
I put 14,000 miles on my bike the first year.....so what would it have cost if I had the maintenance done by the dealer to the spec on the maintenance chart? Battery check, airc leener change, spark plugs, valve adjust...oil changes, tires, etc...??? 2 grand??? Maybe 3 grand? It would actually be chaeper to do no maintenance at ll and run the bike into the gorund and buy a new one every two years!!!
OK...maybe I am exagerating a bit....or am I???
So if you're mechanically retarded, and you make $100 an hour at your job, or your "second" job...by all means it makes sense to pay the dealer....but for routine maintenance (simple) stuff it is a rip off any way you look at it.
But back to tools.......most guys who work on their own motorcycle, also have other similar interests...like working on cars, boats, airplanes, bicycles, whatever......so they either already have the tools, or don't mind getting more tools.......(fetish if you wish)...
But my theory still holds...for the price of one dealer service...you can buy all the necessary tools, and parts and do the job yourself......from then on you use those tools over and over and save money each service!
Cookie
Quote from: HardcoreKeith on September 13, 2011, 08:18:16 PM
Or 3: you want the repair to actually occur, and be done right, and not have other parts mysteriously broken or missing
Jeeze.....it took me 15 paragraphs to say the same thing (above)...you posted while I was still typing!
Cookie
Side Note: Every Mechanic that I have ever worked with that had a 6 ft+ tall tool box....was a "Tool" and ended up being a Supervisor<<<True Story :thumb:
I fit in here somewhere... I would love to do all my own work, but unfortunately I don't have, and probably won't ever have the time. Not for a long while, anyway.
Incidentally, if you look far enough I'm sure you'll find a business who realises the best way to ensure a profit is good quality work. That said, this kind of thinking is scarce unfortunately.
Mechanics are like bottled water, I'm basically paying for convenience.
In the past, when I needed a specialty tool that I really couldn't afford, and wouldn't need on a regular basis, I've gone to e-bay, ordered said tool, used it to complete the job, then re-listed the tool on e-bay for the same price so someone else could do the same thing. I was only out the $5-10 for shipping, got the job done right, and went on my way.
Quote from: runabout879 on September 14, 2011, 01:11:04 AM
In the past, when I needed a specialty tool that I really couldn't afford, and wouldn't need on a regular basis, I've gone to e-bay, ordered said tool, used it to complete the job, then re-listed the tool on e-bay for the same price so someone else could do the same thing. I was only out the $5-10 for shipping, got the job done right, and went on my way.
Great idea....this is where "clubs", and "groups" and "friends" and even E-bay are great assets. There are places you can rent tools too...like advance auto...or specific rental places...
Cookie
Quote from: A.Milos on September 14, 2011, 01:09:50 AM
I fit in here somewhere... I would love to do all my own work, but unfortunately I don't have, and probably won't ever have the time. Not for a long while, anyway.
Incidentally, if you look far enough I'm sure you'll find a business who realises the best way to ensure a profit is good quality work. That said, this kind of thinking is scarce unfortunately.
Mechanics are like bottled water, I'm basically paying for convenience.
You're right...for someone like youself...it is better in the long run to get somebody to do your service.....you pay more...but so what? You have a need and they fill the need..capitalism!..
So as far as a business which does quality work....the word gets out....(good and bad) ..the trouble is sometimes people don't want to pay for quality work.....I sympathise with business owners.....they get screwed from all sides...hard to get and keep good help...lots of overhead.....government breathing down their necks...and customers who want fast, good, and cheap!..
I gotta say ...the airplane shop where I work.....easily 1/2 of our customers come to us because the are pissed off at the last place which did work for them! Luckily my boss stresses quality and precision over speed.........But in the world of airplanes......the customer cannot legally do his own work on most things........all work must be done by an apporved shop, and signed off by a credentialed technician....so we do have a "captive audience"....
Anyway...I stopsometimes in to maybe three or four shops in my area to bick up some plastic polish or whatever....it seems that they are all doing a very brisk service business.....so there is the need, and they are providing the service and the customers are paying the price...life is good!
Cookie
Quote from: twocool on September 14, 2011, 04:11:13 AM
Quote from: runabout879 on September 14, 2011, 01:11:04 AM
In the past, when I needed a specialty tool that I really couldn't afford, and wouldn't need on a regular basis, I've gone to e-bay, ordered said tool, used it to complete the job, then re-listed the tool on e-bay for the same price so someone else could do the same thing. I was only out the $5-10 for shipping, got the job done right, and went on my way.
Great idea....this is where "clubs", and "groups" and "friends" and even E-bay are great assets. There are places you can rent tools too...like advance auto...or specific rental places...
Cookie
Yeah, I checked with Autozone first, but they had generic tools, where I needed a specific one. One example was working on a Neon, had to pull the harmonic balancer, and all Autozone had was the generic 2 prong puller. Dodge cars required a 3 prong.
I use tools everyday.... catch is I work on the water...so I don't buy snap on tools for work ( Harbor freight and Flea Markets..). Wrenches etc do end up in the water and if I can't find it with the magnet (and it's not my last wrench etc of that size) it sometimes gets abandoned and then later replaced ....I have multiples of everything for this reason...
Frankly harbor freight wrenches seem just fine for that kind of everyday use.... They do sell some junk tho so it is hit and miss... Husky socket wrenches and sockets usually tho... Harbor freight screwdrivers too ( some of them are ok...some not so good..)..Band saw blands (portaband) are good...sawzall blades suck there...
For my home tool setup...I have a Snap on top and bottom box with a non snap on side cabinet... I will go for a NICE toolbox.... I didn't say NEW toolbox... Jesse has seen my setup ... If you bought my bottom box from Snap On it would be north of $2500...top box is probably $2k...side cabinet dunno...
I paid $300 for the whole rig....it was dirty but cleaned up ok...Vintage 1985 or so...was a diesel guys box... some of the hardware is rough and the bottom drawer needs the slide stops fixed... All the locks work and I have all the keys...
I can get the parts from snapon...might even be warranty...
Look on CL and other places and you can get a good used box (I kept my eyes open for a little while...and pounced..)...If you don't need The Tycho Monolith taking up half your space...don't buy it....heh
What's in my box... My first "big" set I bought was Husky from Home Depot...(circa 1993 dunno if what they sell now is still "Husky" but seems ok..) so a good bit of that... some oddball Snapon stuff I have bought at Flea's and at Carlisle etc.... Some craftsmen from years back and some harbor freight stuff...
I don't wrench in the garage everyday but they get used often enough on the bikes etc I deal with here. I have lost a few sockets ( probably in my garage...) but can't recall breaking a husky yet...
I don't even own a crescent wrench...I occasionally have one for work ( which the boss steals all the time)- Fine for emergencies but I'll get the wrench I need first...that's just me...again my home setup.
So yeah...doing some of the maintenance yourself definitely pays for the tools... You can never have too many tools....[Tim Allen grunt]...
My 2 cents.
Not everyone who has others do their work is a mechanical retard who makes $100 an hour.
As stated, people forget Their Time - it has a value as well. They will work for themselves for free for days but give the boss an extra 5 mins?
For me to do a Fix on my bike I would need to have a day off work. So not only do I have a loss of income for the day I also have a Cost of parts - so I go out double negative.
If all you do is work 8 hours days, five days a week, then I am sure you have time. My days are often 14 hours long with a short 8 hour day for a Sat, but this is also often a 12 hour day. Excuse me for not wanting to ditch that income so I can slowly learn the art of some fiddly repair work. And specially when my mechanic can work magic with my bikes (yes, I have a good one).
Bad Mechanics are like bottled tap water - paying for convenience. But maestro mechanics who save me time & money cause I don't need to have time off work... like golden egg laying geese - are well worth it. I used to wrench my own stuff but really cannot be bothered anymore. My time is better spent elsewhere.
Michael
Quote from: mister on September 14, 2011, 02:37:08 PM
Not everyone who has others do their work is a mechanical retard who makes $100 an hour.
As stated, people forget Their Time - it has a value as well. They will work for themselves for free for days but give the boss an extra 5 mins?
For me to do a Fix on my bike I would need to have a day off work. So not only do I have a loss of income for the day I also have a Cost of parts - so I go out double negative.
If all you do is work 8 hours days, five days a week, then I am sure you have time. My days are often 14 hours long with a short 8 hour day for a Sat, but this is also often a 12 hour day. Excuse me for not wanting to ditch that income so I can slowly learn the art of some fiddly repair work. And specially when my mechanic can work magic with my bikes (yes, I have a good one).
Bad Mechanics are like bottled tap water - paying for convenience. But maestro mechanics who save me time & money cause I don't need to have time off work... like golden egg laying geese - are well worth it. I used to wrench my own stuff but really cannot be bothered anymore. My time is better spent elsewhere.
Michael
"All work and no play makes Jack a....."
When do you have time to even "ride" your bike?
How do you get the bike to the dealer for service, or does he pick it up? I mean "that" takes time too..In fact most dealers are gonna be closed once you are done with your work...
What else do you do for fun? Anything??
So, at your funeral, you want to be know as...."yep, he's the guy who worked 14 hours a day"??
Sorry for busting your balls, but I am really worried about you....But I do get what you say.....DIY mechanics don't make sense for everybody...to each his own....whatever floats you boat...etc..
Cookie
If you have the room, this is a very nice toolbox for the money: http://www.harborfreight.com/13-drawer-red-industrial-quality-roller-cabinet-90320.html There is a coupon in the latest issue of Rider magazine that brings it down to $350. If you don't have much space, this is another nice option: http://www.harborfreight.com/580-lb-capacity-four-drawer-roller-cart-95659.html I've seen it put on sale for about $100 at the retail stores.
-Jessie
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_11740.jpg)
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_11955.jpg)
Quote from: twocool on September 14, 2011, 07:46:05 PM
Quote from: mister on September 14, 2011, 02:37:08 PM
Not everyone who has others do their work is a mechanical retard who makes $100 an hour.
As stated, people forget Their Time - it has a value as well. They will work for themselves for free for days but give the boss an extra 5 mins?
For me to do a Fix on my bike I would need to have a day off work. So not only do I have a loss of income for the day I also have a Cost of parts - so I go out double negative.
If all you do is work 8 hours days, five days a week, then I am sure you have time. My days are often 14 hours long with a short 8 hour day for a Sat, but this is also often a 12 hour day. Excuse me for not wanting to ditch that income so I can slowly learn the art of some fiddly repair work. And specially when my mechanic can work magic with my bikes (yes, I have a good one).
Bad Mechanics are like bottled tap water - paying for convenience. But maestro mechanics who save me time & money cause I don't need to have time off work... like golden egg laying geese - are well worth it. I used to wrench my own stuff but really cannot be bothered anymore. My time is better spent elsewhere.
Michael
"All work and no play makes Jack a....."
When do you have time to even "ride" your bike?
How do you get the bike to the dealer for service, or does he pick it up? I mean "that" takes time too..In fact most dealers are gonna be closed once you are done with your work...
What else do you do for fun? Anything??
So, at your funeral, you want to be know as...."yep, he's the guy who worked 14 hours a day"??
Sorry for busting your balls, but I am really worried about you....But I do get what you say.....DIY mechanics don't make sense for everybody...to each his own....whatever floats you boat...etc..
Cookie
Firstly, let's drop the "I am worried about you" thing. You don't know me from a bar of soap, you are Not worried about me at all. That's just insincere internet chatroom bs. Now to answer your questions...
Thankfully my mechanic works from his home. So I can drop the bike off "on the way home". Other times I might only do a 10 hour day. Seeing as I could start at 5am or 6am that gives me an hour's grace after work when businesses are still open. So I can do Some stuff there as well. Local bike shop is only 10 minute from home and they drop me off and pick me up :thumb:
I ride 7 days a week - 6 for work, one for enjoyment.
I am one of those people who actually enjoy my work (if you enjoy it it's not work, right?). And even though I am an employee I have the power to say "nope, not doing it" to any foreman, boss, supervisor, manager, whatever, and not get fired or in trouble. It really is quite cool. :thumb: What's my job? Not tell'n :flipoff:
If you want something done give it to a busy man.
Michael
I worked on large freight hauling trucks for 24 years. I got to the point that I wouldn't trust any Craftsman open end wrenches not to "spread" in use and bust knuckles. The Snap-on wrenches did not do this. Also, the Snap-On easy outs or extractors were, bar none, the best out there. There are lots of cheapo extractors that will break, and then you get to try to extract the extractor. Snap-On will replace your wrench (or whatever) if the finish becomes even slightly dull-even if the toll works just fine.
Jon
Quote from: mister on September 14, 2011, 08:31:19 PM
Quote from: twocool on September 14, 2011, 07:46:05 PM
Quote from: mister on September 14, 2011, 02:37:08 PM
Not everyone who has others do their work is a mechanical retard who makes $100 an hour.
As stated, people forget Their Time - it has a value as well. They will work for themselves for free for days but give the boss an extra 5 mins?
For me to do a Fix on my bike I would need to have a day off work. So not only do I have a loss of income for the day I also have a Cost of parts - so I go out double negative.
If all you do is work 8 hours days, five days a week, then I am sure you have time. My days are often 14 hours long with a short 8 hour day for a Sat, but this is also often a 12 hour day. Excuse me for not wanting to ditch that income so I can slowly learn the art of some fiddly repair work. And specially when my mechanic can work magic with my bikes (yes, I have a good one).
Bad Mechanics are like bottled tap water - paying for convenience. But maestro mechanics who save me time & money cause I don't need to have time off work... like golden egg laying geese - are well worth it. I used to wrench my own stuff but really cannot be bothered anymore. My time is better spent elsewhere.
Michael
"All work and no play makes Jack a....."
When do you have time to even "ride" your bike?
How do you get the bike to the dealer for service, or does he pick it up? I mean "that" takes time too..In fact most dealers are gonna be closed once you are done with your work...
What else do you do for fun? Anything??
So, at your funeral, you want to be know as...."yep, he's the guy who worked 14 hours a day"??
Sorry for busting your balls, but I am really worried about you....But I do get what you say.....DIY mechanics don't make sense for everybody...to each his own....whatever floats you boat...etc..
Cookie
Firstly, let's drop the "I am worried about you" thing. You don't know me from a bar of soap, you are Not worried about me at all. That's just insincere internet chatroom bs. Now to answer your questions...
Thankfully my mechanic works from his home. So I can drop the bike off "on the way home". Other times I might only do a 10 hour day. Seeing as I could start at 5am or 6am that gives me an hour's grace after work when businesses are still open. So I can do Some stuff there as well. Local bike shop is only 10 minute from home and they drop me off and pick me up :thumb:
I ride 7 days a week - 6 for work, one for enjoyment.
I am one of those people who actually enjoy my work (if you enjoy it it's not work, right?). And even though I am an employee I have the power to say "nope, not doing it" to any foreman, boss, supervisor, manager, whatever, and not get fired or in trouble. It really is quite cool. :thumb: What's my job? Not tell'n :flipoff:
If you want something done give it to a busy man.
Michael
Thank's for the clairification...I'm not worried any more....phew! :thumb:
Cookie
PS Moderators, How come we are not ending up in the tard farm??? I mean really...nothing very useful in these type of posts anyway....(me and them).
Best tool is the gstwins.com and i really mean that :thumb:
And after all this information, i bought some tools from local shops and some other from ebay.
And do most of the service job alone...
Thank each and everyone of you over here :cheers:
Thank you gstwins again :D
Quote from: twocool on September 15, 2011, 05:08:37 AM
PS Moderators, How come we are not ending up in the tard farm??? I mean really...nothing very useful in these type of posts anyway....(me and them).
Ask and ye shall receive.
Cool.
Buddha.
,...nice.
Sorry to see this ended up in the tard farm. I was going to add some pictures but decided to start a new thread instead: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=57698.0
Jessie
Thanks to my fitting apprenticeship I was supplied with tools thanks to a government grant, I'll do just about anything to my car/bike I've only given up on my bike once thankfully it was a cheap fix. As for the car I'm getting it serviced at the dealer till all my handbook is stamped out. Working on cars/bikes/trains is relatively simple when I started picking up spanners etc to work I was surprised to find how easy it is and rewarding. And also its hard to find a good mechanic who won't screw you sideways. Wheather you work on things yourself of get someone to do it for you as long as you enjoy the end product and it works.
Attention light-weights. . .
1.) It was a cool thread.
2.) It even stated
(Rant) in the topic header. Idea exchange is good, & shouldn't be considered a personal attack.
3.) If The Tard Farm is only place we can chat then The Tard Farm is jolly good with me. :cheers:
Quote from: aussiegs on September 16, 2011, 11:29:25 PM
. . . its hard to find a good mechanic who won't screw you sideways.
Wheather you work on things yourself of get someone to do it for you as long as you enjoy the end product and it works.
Agreed!
A mechanic is a person with a natural ability. It's not something you can simply learn. Too many people are employed as mechanics that just don't have the core ability.
An artist, an athlete, a school teacher, it doesn't matter, Some people are very good at their craft because they just are. They have the gift.
Final thought. . .
Some really good mechanics work in high production shops that simply don't allow them the time to do a good job. The work has to be pumped out, job after job, etc...
But that's fodder for another post.
Totally agree, I couldn't work in a high turnover place I'd get sacked! I like takin my time and makin sure I'm right. Plus most if the time I'm getting up and down getting tools, turning compressors on etc. So that's eats up time when I work on my car, but much faster on the bike. Yeah some ppl are naturally gifted others just trained. Me???? I'm partially gifted I need a bit more expirence to speed up.
Glad to see this thread came back to life! I actually have to decide tonight if I want to hang up my wrenches. I interviewed with a fleet leasing company today for an "Automotive Service Specialist" position. Pretty much a fancy name for a guy that sits in a cubicle an a call center staring at a computer screen arranging and approving service to leased company vehicles. The automotive industry is changing and it is getting harder to make a living turning wrenches. Warranty work always pays mechanics less than regular shop times and cars are coming with longer and longer warranties. Extended warranties really shaft the mechanics because they pay even lower times than warranty work and will not pay anything for diagnostic. The latest cut to our pay is the included maintenance with the purchase of a new Toyota. For those not familiar, professional mechanics are payed by the flat rate hour. Each job is assigned a flat rate value which the mechanic is payed no matter how long he spends on that job. An oil change pays 4 tenths of an hour. A tenth of an hour is 6 minutes so an oil change would be break even at 24 minutes. If I get it done in faster than 24 minutes I make more money; I take longer than 24 minutes and I am theoretically losing money. Camrys and Corollas can be done rather quickly but vehicles like a Tundra always take longer than 24 minutes. In an average day I see a lot more Camrys and Corollas than I do Tundras so I usually come out ahead as far as oil changes are concerned. A tire rotation without balancing also pays 4 tenths of an hour so an oil change and tire rotation normally nets me 8 tenths total. Under the Toyota Care included maintenance I only get payed 3 tenths for doing an oil change and tire rotation, less than half of what I'm used to making. I think it may be time for me to try a new career....
-Jessie
Damn shame to see someone off the tools at anytime because of progress etc. :icon_sad:
Quote from: aussiegs on October 11, 2011, 12:02:13 AM
Damn shame to see someone off the tools at anytime because of progress etc. :icon_sad:
You always need to do what's in your own best interest, objectively.
There can be much nobility in going off the tools and taking on a menial job.
Michael
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on October 10, 2011, 07:49:03 PM
Glad to see this thread came back to life! I actually have to decide tonight if I want to hang up my wrenches. I interviewed with a fleet leasing company today for an "Automotive Service Specialist" position...
...Under the Toyota Care included maintenance I only get payed 3 tenths for doing an oil change and tire rotation, less than half of what I'm used to making. I think it may be time for me to try a new career....
-Jessie
Interesting decision point (http://mysite.verizon.net/vze2wc9e/thinking.gif)
Curious. . .
How long you been wrenching?
-Ej-
Quote from: Electrojake on October 11, 2011, 02:09:55 PM
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on October 10, 2011, 07:49:03 PM
Glad to see this thread came back to life! I actually have to decide tonight if I want to hang up my wrenches. I interviewed with a fleet leasing company today for an "Automotive Service Specialist" position...
...Under the Toyota Care included maintenance I only get payed 3 tenths for doing an oil change and tire rotation, less than half of what I'm used to making. I think it may be time for me to try a new career....
-Jessie
Interesting decision point (http://mysite.verizon.net/vze2wc9e/thinking.gif)
Curious. . .
How long you been wrenching?
-Ej-
Been with Toyota for 8 years now. Been working on dirt bikes ever since I could ride them :D
-Jessie
Interesting pricing structure. When I had a Toyota the service people would charge me some something like $200 for a service. At the time, I worked with a fellow whose son was an apprentice at that same dealership. His son was paid $190 a week!
Ford Service Dept Manager told me... the money is NOT in selling the new car but locking people into a service schedule. At the time, they were billing out labor at $75 an hour. There was only one head mechanic - fully qualified - and he was paid $25 an hour. The rest were apprentices. They were making $50+ an hour profit an All labor, not to mention the ridiculous parts prices. He described the service dept as a license to print money.
Michael
the money for new cars is in parts and to a small extent service, that $50 that you see as profit is far from it, you also need to include things in the ammount of money you make like rent, electricity, water, workshop equiptment, superannuation for employers, then tax on top of that, and $75 an hour is pretty cheap for a mech these days too. yet they do rip you for parts hard. the OEM has already made money on the parts just from selling them from the manufactoring plant to the service department, then makes even more money selling them to you from there. and a first year mech gets about 250ish then 300 for 2nd year 370ish 3rd 450ish 4th year, yet as a first year it takes em forever to do basic tasks at first, so you might only be charged one hour for something that he might of spent 2 hours doing until he has more training.
I hear it everyday from Matco, Mac, SnapOn, Cornwell guys how the dealerships are slow as molasses. One guy told me that they did it to themselves around here, charging ridiculous prices and gouging people to the point customers don't want take their business to them. When one of the guys tells me they are going to <blank> big dealership, I always say 'time to collect hundred dollar bills' and they always retort back with something about dealerships being slow. Only way, I personally, would take anything to the dealership was if it was under warranty.
It's just unfortunate that the "good" shop mechanics get taken advantage of while the crappy mechanics get a free ride.
But I guess it's like that in any craft, mechanical or otherwise.
The most important thing is to be aware that you are a "technical" idiot.
I work with a lot of different skill levels at my job (heavy industrial electrical/electronics). I know where I stand skill wise. Some things I'm real good at, yet in other areas I recognize my weakness and always get a second opinion from a coworker if possible.
However. . .
There are a number of people here that are stupid and don't know it. Me and the other technicians know who they are (everybody knows who the morons are in our shop). But I guess for reasons of political correctness, they do as they please and the better technicians constantly carry their load.
So I can't help but ask:
If fat people know they're fat,
Strong people know their strong,
Weak people know they're weak, etc. . .
Then why is it that most stupid people have no idea they're stupid? (http://mysite.verizon.net/vze2wc9e/hmm.gif)
Trust me when I tell you. . .
I have seen morons troubleshoot for hours and then confidently tear an entire machine down to the frame because of a simple blown fuse.
It cost us all time & money to constantly carry these self proclaimed "technicians".
Sorry, I'm off topic and on a rant, but you get the idea.
I guess what I'm trying to say is: There is nothing wrong with being a moron, as long as you are aware that you are a moron and deal with it accordingly.
Trust me, I'm no genius myself, but I know my general ability :thumb:
-Ej-
...acutally i know lots of fat people that seem to be compleatly oblivious to themselfs being fat, although thats probley becasue there stupid and also dont know it
Quote from: gtscott on October 17, 2011, 09:10:05 AM
...acutally i know lots of fat people that seem to be compleatly oblivious to themselfs being fat, although thats probley becasue there stupid and also dont know it
Your reasoning on this issue is flawless. (http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Respect/bravo-009.gif)
Quote from: gtscott on October 17, 2011, 09:10:05 AM
...acutally i know lots of fat people that seem to be compleatly oblivious to themselfs being fat, although thats probley becasue there stupid and also dont know it
(http://www.ahajokes.com/cartoon/6thsense.jpg)
Ah yes, the simple wisdom of the Tard Farm.
So very nice that they moved this thread here.
Now we can comfortably explore the limits of "Buying Tools & Doing Your Own Work".
Yo, aussiegs. . . You're up!
Take the "con" and show us your stuff old man.
(http://500motivators.com/plog-content/thumbs/motivate/me/large/441-philadelphia-experiment-2-the-royal-australian-navy-experiments-with-techniques-to-make-a-naval-vessel-invisible-to-the-human-eye.jpg)
Lmfao, nothing old about this man!
Quote from: Electrojake on October 17, 2011, 07:45:50 AM
I guess what I'm trying to say is: There is nothing wrong with being a moron, as long as you are aware that you are a moron and deal with it accordingly.
If a moron knows they are a moron then they are more than likely not a moron or is like the rest of society and simply lies to themselves. Overweight people lie to themselves about their weight issues as much as the skinny person believes they are fit even though they don't exercise and eat crap simply because they carry no weight. hmmmmm
A wise person knows their limitations therefore a wise person who is not smart recognises this and works accordingly. A moron is not wise and remains a moron.
Two items come to mind here. . .Quote from: aussiegs on October 17, 2011, 10:05:36 PM
Lmfao, nothing old about this man!
1.) "Old man" was just a figure of speech. Not really meant to imply that you are chronologically old.
Your actually rather clever for a young fellow.
Just sayin'
-Ej-
Quote from: Shaddow on October 18, 2011, 03:14:26 AM
If a moron knows they are a moron then they are more than likely not a moron...
...as much as the skinny person believes they are fit even though they don't exercise and eat crap simply because they carry no weight.
2.) That's kinda' spooky.
It's as if you know me personally.
Nice post though.
-Ej-
Lol 'clever'. That's the first time I been called that today. I'm not that clever. I just give that impression.
The wise man lives outside of the village.
Does he live outside the village because he is wise - or - did living outside the village enable his wisdom?
Michael
Anybody use any electric impacts, and what do you use? Pics??? I currently use my Makita 14.4 3/8" impact. I never wanted one before but now that I have it, it really rocks.
I wouldnt mind one, but my current rattle gun is an air powered 1/2" ingersol rand. Same with my air ratchet.
I have a shop with air service so it's rare that I use electric impact tools however, I do own a Milwaukee 9066 1/2 inch impact gun.
(http://www.hydroponicsonline.com/store/img-hydroponics/milwaukee-1-2-drive-model-9066-electric-impact-wrench_150578636817.jpg)
And the PDF is here: http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Diagrams/54-26-1555.pdf (http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Diagrams/54-26-1555.pdf)
I got a lot of use out if it on the road, back in the late 1990's.
It's been wet, dropped, and even run over and it still works fine.
I still own it but the trigger switch is about due to be replaced.
Overall, I recommend it.
Who's next?
Hmm I think prefer air tools most of the time or hand tools with massive breaker bar :D
I've always used a 1/2 inch rattle gun, 1/4 and 3/8 drive ratchet in air as well. Its just quick and easy when working on the car, swap tools, quick disconnect jam in the next and keep going.
Hmm, my takes on this...
I have the 81 piece set of 3/8 and 1/4 ratchets and socket set, from home depot, make by husky, in black chrome, on sale for 30 bucks. has a lifetime warrenty.
Its gotten me through engine swaps, fiddling around, abuse, ect.
All ive done is break the 3/8 ratchet at the male end that goes into the socket.... Using a 4 foot cheater pole on a lug nut that wouldnt budge... And it wasnt the first time ive done stupid shaZam! like that and its survived ex. impact driving the sockets and stuff
Brought the broken ratchet into the depot 4 years after I bought it w/ the receipt, and they grabbed a matching ratchet off the shelf and I was on my way.
BTW its the set that looks like snapon clones, has the same shape and ergos.
go cheap.
Quote from: Shaddow on October 19, 2011, 03:30:53 AM
Hmm I think prefer air tools most of the time or hand tools with massive breaker bar :D
I've always used a 1/2 inch rattle gun, 1/4 and 3/8 drive ratchet in air as well. Its just quick and easy when working on the car, swap tools, quick disconnect jam in the next and keep going.
Snapped a shot of my impact guns today. The 1/2" Ingersoll Rand Titanium is what my coworkers referred to as my Playskool Gun, it was the first composite gun in the shop. Now a lot of guys have them. The 3/8" is one of those surprisingly good things I've gotten from Harbor Freight. It is an excellent knock off of an Ingersoll design. It must have been copyright infringement or something because it is no longer available. That gun has survived 8 years of everyday use! I wish I would have bought a second one when they were available in case this one ever breaks.
-Jessie
(http://i735.photobucket.com/albums/ww360/jessiedoran/tool4.jpg)
That IR 2135ti is the most popular gun that I sell. Aircat seems to be gaining with their line though. CP is always behind IR no matter what they do.
Harbor freight is my Mecca. I always DIY, and always get what I need there. I have gotten some real crap which lasted really only once, but have gotten some really nice stuff there that i have gotten years of service out of.
I moved this out of tard farm because there are some interesting comments here.
Quote from: john on January 24, 2012, 12:51:39 PM
Harbor freight is my Mecca. I always DIY, and always get what I need there. I have gotten some real crap which lasted really only once, but have gotten some really nice stuff there that i have gotten years of service out of.
I love harbor freight. I'm picky about what I buy there, no wrenches, screwdrivers, or any of that stuff, but I did grab one of these for $20 last time I was there thinking it might be convenient to have around.... http://www.harborfreight.com/21-piece-saemetric-go-thru-socket-set-67974.html
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_14243.jpg)
Turns out I love it! It feels like a really nice ratchet for the money. Who knows how long it'll last, but for right now I'm really impressed with how nice it feels when I use it. That's store is in the same guilty pleasure section as cycle gear.
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on November 04, 2011, 12:30:36 PM
That IR 2135ti is the most popular gun that I sell. Aircat seems to be gaining with their line though. CP is always behind IR no matter what they do.
I had a crank pulley bolt that my 2135 wouldn't take off (I think it's lost some umph with age) but I borrowed another guys Aircat and it took it right off. Nice gun for the money :thumb:
-Jessie
I liked this thread. Glad to see it back from the dead.
(http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/431377_3171907579889_1331504559_3293286_797836634_n.jpg)
",...Aircat and it took it right off."
I've had really good luck with Aircat. At first I was skeptical but I've seen only one come back for warranty in the past year. The ti series in IR still outsells them and the new 3/4 2145quimax (replaced the always popular 2141) is a hot seller. No real feedback other than sales on it though. Fixing to have an ACdelco cordless 3/8 lithium ratchet to offer. I'm not too optimistic but maybe it'll be worthwhile. We picked up their inspection camera/scope and have had decent feedback and sales on it. (arz604) Myself I'm not crazy about the alkaline batteries.
(http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/423598_3171843978299_1331504559_3293272_845145268_n.jpg)
Has anyone tried a knucklehead? I'm tempted to pick one of these up. The light output, magnet, and recharge ability make it so tempting. Seems like I can never get enough light when I'm working on stuff.
(http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/402034_3171875459086_1331504559_3293277_647365984_n.jpg)
Two things you cannot be without especially on a bike. A magnetic pickup tool, and a flexible grapple claw retrieval tool
Quote from: The Buddha on September 13, 2011, 09:29:34 AM
The thing is casual mech - a crastsman around $1 a tool works just fine IMHO.
Its the repeated hammering that makes that next level neccesary.
For example, my 3/8 10mm hasn't got even close to being replaced from use.
I can honestly say most mechanics, even professional mechanics ... dont need more than 4-5 sockets that are the snap on quality. The 10mm and maybe 8mm in the 1/4" ,a 12 and maybe 14mm in the 3/8" and maybe 14 in the 1/2" drive, and maybe a few crescent wrenches.
Its the sizes that get used a lot and are structurally @ their outer stress limit that I can see need to be the high quality.
BTW I have got some very nice Northern tool ones - are they made in china ? probably, but they work great and stand up to a decent beating. Allen sockets come to mind. Though I have sheared off a few ... maybe time to consider snap on for those ?
Cool.
Buddha.
ive got a decent size set of both craftsman and snapon. when i was at MMI. got my snapon stuff for crapsman prices. ( and funny thign is the discount still works lol a decade later. ) snapon i LOVE becausea tad more refined. not worth full price however. now both crapsman and snapon have lifetiem warranties. snapon is anal about abuse. if they even think youve abused it. good luck Eh?, sears is like , " meh go grab another" snapon has relaxed recently but still FWIW. ill buy sears or matco. i have 2 snapon stubby ratchets. err HAd. a friend of mine his father passed away 5 years ago. i bought the stubbies from a phoenix pawn shop. he tried for ages to talk me out of one of them. well, at his funeral service. i placed one, into his suit pocket. and gave his son. my best friend the other one. i have a wooden handle snapon pipe wrench looking thing. grabbed for a buck at a yard sale
$2.50 at Wally World after Christmas!
(http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr264/Toogoofy317/P1010525.jpg)
Mary
Great find! Those will serve you well
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on January 25, 2012, 08:00:18 AM
Has anyone tried a knucklehead? I'm tempted to pick one of these up.
The light output, magnet, and recharge ability make it so tempting. Seems like I can never get enough light when I'm working on stuff.
(http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/402034_3171875459086_1331504559_3293277_647365984_n.jpg)
I just ordered two of em'.
I should have them in about a week.
I'll let you know how they hold up.
BTW: I got my Son a Streamlight PolyStinger DS for xmas, (same company as the knucklehead).
Stupid expensive at about $250.00 for the kit but the damn thing is amazing for such a little hand-held light.
Hope the Knucklehed is that good.
-Ej-
Well I got my valve shim tool in the mail today it's a lot smaller than I thought lol. (http://img.tapatalk.com/d31f2396-28a4-0706.jpg)
Hope it only cost that 50cents you got there
Suzuki wanted 234 for it. Got it for 24 landed from the USA
Quote from: slipperymongoose on May 31, 2012, 02:33:17 AM
Suzuki wanted 234 for it. Got it for 24 landed from the USA
What Dollars? FARK
It's fuckibg stupid what they wanna charge
Craftsman Max Access ratchet set. (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-19pc-universal-max-axess-socket-and-ratchet/p-00931088000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7102/7310666678_de8308aeb9_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/dougdoberman/7310666678/)
Picked this up on sale last weekend. I've been wanting to try out both the pass-through design and the multi-use splined sockets for a while now. Getting both in one set at a good price was too nice to pass up. :)
I haven't used it yet, so can't report on how it works in a real world situation.
Ratchet itself is pretty heavy. The 5 degree movement is nice and feels solid. The sockets themselves are a little larger than a typical Craftsman socket is, so they're not going to be the choice for very tight spaces.
a good thread so im bringing it back from the dead :icon_twisted: and adding my own to it.
having aquired the majority of my tools from age 14-18 (i'm 18 now) i've bought alot of so-so tools, usually upper -end tools from harbor freight (so home grade quality, but not profesional by any means) and they have served me well, one of the most important things i learned is that those adjustable wrenches are terrible, if they are supposed to be more than 1 size combo wrenches, its going to break something. no idea about gator grips though, i may buy one just for the sake of testing it.
Allen wrenches - dont ever get cheap allen wrenches. either A. they are soft and you not only strip the wrench, but began stripping the screw as well. or B. they are tempered steel and strip the screw because they have no "play"
Screw drivers: i prefer the hardened tipped / magnetic ones as i tend to have them where i cant reach with my fingers, ive got some with cool contraptions too that are very helpful.
"some with cool contraptions"
need pics!
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on September 13, 2011, 04:07:35 PM
Quote from: mike__R on September 13, 2011, 12:34:08 PM
I'm a big fan of the lifetime warranty so when I do break a tool (and I have a few times, usually from trying to use it in a way it wasn't designed to be used) I can get it replaced next time I go to Sears. Oh I usually go with Craftsman due to the lifetime warranty. If I need a tool that is not going to be used but a hadfull of times I might get harbor freight and hope it works the few times I need it.
It's also good to read the terms of the lifetime warranties. Sears is pretty good about exchanging broken Craftsman branded tools with out question (though they won't exchange the chrome sockets if they looked egged out by an impact gun). With Sears Evolve branded tools and Harbor Freight Tools you have to have the original sales receipt to get them to honor the lifetime warranty. All the pro grade tools (Snap on, Matco, MAC..) are exchanged without proof of purchase.
-Jessie
this is true. but there has been times, that snapon refused the warranty. guy on truck said " this looks abused" 1 formal complaint later i still have a broken socket. sears however you could use them to jack up a house, crush htem bring it into sears. no questions asked exchange/rebuild on site
"1 formal complaint later i still have a broken socket"
send it to me, I'll get you new one.
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on July 11, 2012, 11:42:05 AM
"some with cool contraptions"
need pics!
A bit late but when i get home i'll snap a few!
I've had several opportunities to use that Craftsman Max Access set that I linked in my last post. Not much bike stuff, but a few around the house things, including the reels on my garage door about a dozen times before I just had a new door installed.
It works nicely. The ratcheting action feels smooth & solid. The sockets have tightly gripped whatever I've needed them to, including a couple of big square-head set screws on the garage door. Did that once with an adjustable wrench. This was a much better tool for the job. (which is almost ALWAYS the case when you're talking about using something in place of an adjustable wrench.)
As promised, here's one of my funky screw drivers:
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x466/Brandon_Hantke/GS500F/2012-07-26172859.jpg)
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x466/Brandon_Hantke/GS500F/2012-07-26172845.jpg)
And yes, that is a nail not a screw on the end
was going to ask about the nail. that aside, ive got one of those screwdrivers, except in a phillips too. it works well for pc repair
Snappy asked me for one of those last week. Said he couldn't find one that his customer wanted. All I had was cheap china one,....fail.
We've got tools at work. I wished they'd move on to another job or get the flick. :icon_mrgreen:
Michael
Quote from: mister on August 11, 2012, 02:21:27 AM
We've got tools at work. I wished they'd move on to another job or get the flick. :icon_mrgreen:
Michael
haha the tools at my work tend to do the heavy lifting so they are allowed to stay :icon_twisted: