Hi, im new this this site and would like some help!...
My problem is as when first found, the left cylinder (when sitting on bike) was not firing, I have since changed both coil and ht leads and both plugs.. Coils from a 96GS with NGK end caps and NGK Iridium plugs (0.9mm gap)
I have at this moment in time just checked the valve clearances and it seems that the right clylinder exhaust valve is 0.11mm, the other clearances was LH:EX - 0.08mm, LH:IN - 0.06-0.07mm and RH:IN - 0.06-0.07, so im in the process of getting a new shim RH:EX, What else would you replace when putting the rocker cover back on?... I will replace the gasket and o-rings, is there anything else?...
When i get round to putting the carbs back on i will be balancing them using a home made manometer, but how many turns out should the screw be in the first place for each carb... The carbs have both been stripped and cleaned, they both had quite a bit of brown dust type stuff in there... And also both carbs have cone filters on them if that makes a difference.
Any help and suggestions would be great!..
Thanks for reading.
P.
I'd leave the valve shims alone, my GS500 specs:
Intake .001-.003" (.03-.08mm)
Exhaust .003-.005" (.08-.13mm)
Will give longer exhaust valve life.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/GSvalvelogs.jpg
Ah okay...
So the valve clearance's are all okay then!... That saves me some money... Although would you recommend to change the gasket and o-rings?...
If not then i could have my bike up and running today/tomorrow!... Sooner than i thought! :cheers:
The gasket and o-rings should withstand 3-4 valve clearance inspections.
I change the valve cover gasket about every 30k miles, only do it sooner if there's some leakage before that. Never have changed any of those little 0-rings on the valve cover shoulder bolts and never had a problem with them. Put 80k miles on my 97 GS and am approaching 90k miles on my 02 GS.
I changed air cleaner elements on my 97 every 30k miles without a problem and started same on the 02 but it proved to be too long a winter ago, the 02 element has a reduced filter area with some of it being covered with a shield, maybe 20-25k would be better. I see both types of air filter elements are used on 04F and later bikes.
Thanks for your help...
The air filter cones i cleaned them up and blew them out with an air gun and compressor...
The reason i added that bit is because i dont know if that would affect the amount of turns out the screw would have to be, as im sure it would have a greater air flow rate than standard...
If anyone could help me with this, that would be great... Im thinking 2 - 2 1/2 out?
Thanks.
P.
BTTT :D
check your pulse generator coils one may have failed .later models only have one coil and when it fails you go nowhere.. im not talking about the ignition coils but about pulse generator coils down on right end of crankshaft .good tip when and if you replace cam shaft cover gasket glue it into cam cover only it should stay there next time you remove it
do it your self be sure its done right
Thanks for your reply...
If when i do the Carb sync'ing today and it doesn't run right then thats where i will check next, as i know my alternator is a bit dodgy... its definately on its way out... so that needs replacing...
Cant get the sync'ing done as i have another problem i would like to get sorted first...
i've bolted everything back together, started her up and there seems to be some sort of squeeking?!... Could it be the rocker cover gasket is no good and there is something leaking past...
The squeeking has seemed to sort it self out?... Was the gasket just bedding in slightly?
sync'd the carbs... more or less the same on idle...
Its just when i rev it one carb ( the right one ) seems to then create more vacuum, causing the oil in the tube to rise more than the other... but then return to the same height when on idle?...
Its still running on one cylinder, so maybe as Twinrat suggested it could be the Pulse generator coil/s... Can 1 be replaced or does it come together?
Thanks again,
P.
BTTT 8)
any puttering and backfiring symptoms?
mine was only running on one cyl because of a bad petcock.
if it is, try a quick spin on other settings.
mine would run better but still sloppy on Prime.
Spent $250 for a garage to mess up my carbs and not find the actual problem.
$40ish later for a new petcock and its been golden :thumb:
There is a backfire everynow and again when held at a steady rpm... And there is a noise every now and again, that sounds like a spark or like something is shorting out and sparking against the block!?... Maybe its sparking prematurely and its coming back out the carb? i dont know...
I will try it on other settings, but i think i may have tried this and its the same, but i will do it again and update...
sometimes you could hold it at like 2k rpm and then that noise would happen and it will be like both cylinders are running and it shoots up to 4k rpm... Its very weird...
I will try and get a video as soon as possible to help..
Thanks.
P.
HI MISTER had a squeak on my 09 last week and found it was coming from exhaust gasket .tightened it up a tad and now ok .while i had the fairing off checked head gasket externaly with a torch right round found no signs of a head gasket leak ,it will show as a dark smudge near a leak in early stages.
Yeah i rechecked the tightness of the 6 bolts of the rocker cover... One was slightly loose... Tightened it up and it was okay...
Thanks..
Havent had much time to do much, but going to check the resistance in the pulse generator coils in the week... Hopefully this comes back as the problem!
Thanks again.
P.
Checked the resistance on the coils as it says to do in the Haynes manual...
And it was fine... Altho i did notice on two of the wires it seems to have chafed on something and is showing bare wire... I will repair these two wires and see if that solves the problem... But one of the wires i had to check the resistance through and it didnt through up a high reading or an abnormal reading...
Dont know what else to try after this?!
:technical:
Have now come accross the generator rotor is f%$ked. 2 of the 6 magnets are loose and have no enamel/epoxy on them...
I have seen a second hand one on ebay for £100 inc delivery, would you buy this part second hand if in good condition or would you spend £220+ VAT on a brand new one...
Stator looks in good condition...
BTTT
did you check out the diaphrams on top of carbs ,one of mine crapped out at only 10,000 miles .would have expected it to last longer.
Quote from: twinrat on October 01, 2011, 12:15:35 AM
did you check out the diaphrams on top of carbs ,one of mine crapped out at only 10,000 miles .would have expected it to last longer.
Is that 10,000 miles that You put on the bike?
As soon as the bike has a Previous Owner or Owners, all bets are off as to the expected life of anything cause you just don't know what heinous things the bike has been subjected to.
I'm almost at 44,000km on my bike and she's still sweet as. No problems. Then again, I've put them all on the bike and haven't tried to fix anything that wasn't broke.
Michael
Both diaphrams were visibly okay.. No splits or anything..
I have ordered a Generator rotor as this needs to be fixed... As the charging system is working and i found 2 magnets loose..
Just need to know which way the bolt comes off that holds the rotor on... As getting it off can be a bit tricky without the correct tools..
I had these issues as well. I went around in circles until I read to start with the basics, which was great advise since I didn't even know what the basics were. :confused:. So after finding out what they were I proceded to trouble shoot.
I would start with the easy stuff first:
Do you have spark? Take your spark plug out and stick it in the boot. Make sure you remove the other spark plug "unless you want it to start". hold the spark plug that is in the boot close to the cylinder head and crank engine.
Do you have spark?
Do you have compression? Stick your thumb over the cylinder in question "again making sure the other spark plug has been removed" proceed to crank the engine. Does it push or pop your finger off or out of the spark plug hole? Do the other side to compare compression. Does it feel the same on both sides?
Do you have compression?
The last basic thing to check would be your carbs. If thats the problem there are plenty of treads on this site that you can search that will help you with carb problems.
My problem was a mix of compression which i had a little bit of and carbs. solved problem with shims, valves and a good carb cleaning. Hope this info helps. :thumb:
I had these issues as well. I went around in circles until I read to start with the basics, which was great advise since I didn't even know what the basics were. :confused:. So after finding out what they were I proceded to trouble shoot.
I would start with the easy stuff first:
Do you have spark? Take your spark plug out and stick it in the boot. Make sure you remove the other spark plug "unless you want it to start". hold the spark plug that is in the boot close to the cylinder head and crank engine.
Do you have spark?
Do you have compression? Stick your thumb over the cylinder in question "again making sure the other spark plug has been removed" proceed to crank the engine. Does it push or pop your finger off or out of the spark plug hole? Do the other side to compare compression. Does it feel the same on both sides?
Do you have compression?
The last basic thing to check would be your carbs. If thats the problem there are plenty of treads on this site that you can search that will help you with carb problems.
My problem was a mix of compression which i had a little bit of and carbs. solved problem with shims, valves and a good carb cleaning. Hope this info helps.
Oh yea make sure your slides aren't sticking open. I checked mine by running with the air box off when I was trouble shooting air/fuel mixture issues. left slide would stick on hard rev. found that the spring in diaphragm was getting kinked up :technical::thumb:
Thanks for your reply...
I have a decent spark from both plugs...
Havent checked compression yet as i have a rubber cone type one and it didnt want to read properly... I am going to borrow a screw in type... And at the moment i cant check compression as of yet because i have it in pieces as im just replacing the Generator rotor..
But once thats on i will check compression, hopefully have the bike running on its own battery by then, as the there is a fault in the charging system. Hopefully wont have to replace the Stator too, but there doesnt seem to be any damage caused to it by the magnets and it looks in good condition...
The carbs i have taken apart and cleaned up inside, which they had quite a bit of brown dust type stuff in there... As for the sliders sticking, i think the carbs are okay.
I have checked the clearances and they are okay, well both inlets was 0.06-7 and LH exhaust was 0.08 and RH exhaust was 0.11... Which i know doesnt fall under the 0.03-0.07 allowance, but for the exhaust valve clearance i have been told this is okay....
Need to know what i can get the generator rotor off with... Im not sure what size the thread is so i was thinking to get this..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400199546138?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Item Number: 400199546138 on eBay if the link dont work..
Surely one of them will fit and get the bastard off... Lol.
Thanks.
BTTT