Mobil 1 or Royal Purple? which do you think is best?
Cheap old non-synthetic Rotella 15w40 works fine :D
Fair warning, you are about to receive many replies saying "Use the search function" :laugh:
-Jessie
Quote from: Davidb on October 02, 2011, 09:29:19 AM
Mobil 1 or Royal Purple? which do you think is best?
Back a few years ago Mobil1 Racing T4 10W-40 ($10 Qt) had superior physical properties (MSDS) over Rotella T ($20 Gal), somewhere along the line Mobil1 changed their formula and degraded it. Rotella T on the other hand
improved their formula with the new T6, so after years of using Mobil1 Racing T4, I have switched myself to the new Rotella T6.
EDIT: The Rotella 15w40 BaltimoreGS mentioned would work equally fine, personally I haven't owned a bike over 25,000 miles in decades
(BaltimoreGS or is it gsJack? has done many more miles on 1 bike than I have), I have a pretty high turn over rate on bikes, I could probably reuse the oil out of my car in my bikes and never have a problem, my 07' GS500F left with 4,400? miles on it and was in showroom condition. I could use $1.00 a gallon oil and never have a problem, considering how long I keep my bikes.
EDIT: #2 OK..it was gsJack I was thinking of :thumb:
Motul 5100 10w-40.
I only put stuff made for a motorcycle in my motorcycle. But people do swear up and down non-friction enhanced car oils work good. My buddy runs 15w-40 diesel oil in his bike. I just refuse skimp on my motorcycles.
If I had to choose though, Royal Purple.
Shell Rotella T now carries the JASO MA motorcycle rating, JASO is the Japanese equivelant of our SAE. I used the Mobil 1 full synthetic 15W-50 for the first 50k miles on my 97 GS then switched to the less costly 15W-40 Heavy Duty aka diesel aka truck oils when the oil consumption increased and ran them for another 30k miles in my ageing 97.
My current 02 GS has gone all the way just turning 90k miles last week on the 15W-40 Heavy Duty oils mainly the Rotella T, my current choice for air cooled motorcycles. Both my GSs ran cooler on the 15W-40 oils than the 97 did on the 15W-50 synthetic Mobil 1 and oil consumption was about the same.
Royal Purple is good marketing, not good oil.
.
Motul 7100 10w-40 in my 07' GS500F
QuoteBoth my GSs ran cooler on the 15W-40 oils than the 97 did on the 15W-50 synthetic Mobil 1 and oil consumption was about the same.
How do you know the engine was running cooler???
So glad you asked. It is such a rarity to have a post asking about oil, yet oil is such an important aspect of owning a motorcycle. It's been ages and ages since we had such a thread. If I recall correctly, it must have been, how long now, so hard to remember, maybe 2 maybe 3... years, months weeks :flipoff:
*I* use motorcycle specific oil. Currently using Motul 300v (Factoryline) but also used Motul 5100 for oh, I don't know, 30,000 clicks, and the bike ran sweet on it - fixed my false neutral problem too :thumb:
In the end, what really matters is that you Regularly change your oil and filter. A brand can help an engine run smoother, get rid of false neutrals, smoother gear changes, if you have those problems. It's good to see you have done Some research before asking the question. It shows you have some desire to keep the bike running well, instead of just opting for the cheapest Wally World stuff for no other reason than it's cheap.
Oh yeah, use the search function for a plethora of threads and oil discussions and information. :icon_mrgreen:
Michael
Quote from: angelocardoc on October 02, 2011, 12:38:33 PM
QuoteBoth my GSs ran cooler on the 15W-40 oils than the 97 did on the 15W-50 synthetic Mobil 1 and oil consumption was about the same.
How do you know the engine was running cooler???
Copied from old post:
I had four Hondas before my two GS500s that were made to run on regular gas and I ran 20W-50 oil in them summers after they had some miles on them. All four progressed from regular to mid grade to premium gas to eliminate heavy gas knock under acceleration in the summer as they became carboned up over the years. I ran 15W-50 Mobil 1 synthetic in my 97 GS500E for 50k miles and it progressed to premium the same way the Hondas did. After 50k miles when the oil consumption increased considerably I switched to the 15W-40 heavy duty dino truck oils like Delvac, Rotella T, etc that were becoming popular with bikers and were much less expensive than the Mobil 1 and it ran on regular gas without any further gas knock for the next 30k miles I used it.
My current 02 GS500 has only seen the 15W-40 oils and regular grade gas since I've had it and has yet to have any gas knock. It had 4k miles on it when I bought it and has over 83.5k miles now and still runs like new. Oil has two basic functions in an air cooled engine, to lubricate and to cool, and a lighter oil flows more freely and cools the head area better than a heavier one and it's the combination of high compression and engine heat that causes gas knock. Your GS500 will run better on regular gas than on premium if it doesn't knock on regular. Premium gas causes the fuel/air mix to burn slower to eliminate knock on higher compression engines.
Gas knock? Spark knock? Pre-ignition?
Wikipedia offers a good explanation. Here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking
If your carbs are set too lean you'll get great fuel economy but run hot, causing "spark knock".
Air to fuel ratio
15.4:1 = good fuel economy, run hot, high Nox emissions
12.6:1 = high power, cooler combustion temps, high HC emissions, carbon deposits.
If you use thicker oil (like 15W-40 as opposed to 10W-40) less heat dissipation will occur, thus aggravating the heat issue.
Wrong heat range of your spark plugs will also aggravate the heat issue.
Insufficient valve lash.
Auto-ignition of engine oil droplets (using poor quality oil)
Lugging the engine. (my GS runs best in the 4,000-6,000 RPM range)
Depending where you live, gas is different, cheap gas is just that! Cheap.
Here in Ontario Canada...
Regular gas is 87 octane and 10% ethanol.
Mid-grade gas is 89 octane and approx. 5% ethanol.
Premium gas is 91 or 94 octane and has no ethanol.
I am certain that 87 octane makes my GS500F less powerful.
My GS and my car both run better (more power) on 91-94 octane
So...
If your experiencing "gas knock"? This is a condition of a hot engine.
How about engine set up?
Quality of fluids?
(Disclosure...I am by no means an expert)
I think you should go with what you are comfortable with. Me?? Castrol gps 15w40, I have yet to reach my first service. But on a side note I always try to run 98ron fuel, yes I may pay a whole 2 dollars or so extra then filling up with regular but I find my bike runs better and smoother so I use it. Trial and error my friend, but it's nice to have more trial and less error lol. :thumb:
aussiegs is right
Spend the extra $10 use good oil
Spend the extra $2 use premium gas
and avoid the overheating issues
Quote from: angelocardoc on October 02, 2011, 04:49:21 PM
aussiegs is right
Spend the extra $10 use good oil
Spend the extra $2 use premium gas
and avoid the overheating issues
I can understand the oil. I do it as I indicated in my previous post. But fuel is a different beast. The manual recommends 87 octane for a reason. The GS500 engine doesn't produce high enough compression to cause pre-ignition like in a higher compression engine. There is no difference between any of the qualities except for their AKI (at least here in America).
I'd like to see some real evidence that high octane gas results in lower overall engine heat production. I'm calling BS on this one.
It's not the octane that gives more power or causes less or more heat
If you have an overheating problem...it has nothing to do with the fuel octane
It's ethanol that's the problem.
Ethanol has less BTU's than gas. (Less omph!)
87 octane fuel would be fine...but here in Ont. it has 10% ethanol added.
I think in the states it also is added. Canada always follows what the U.S. does.
I believe it was the Bush administration that mandated the supplement of ethanol in our fuel.
Govt. did this to decrease our dependency on foreign oil. What a mess that turned out to be!!
Quote from: angelocardoc on October 02, 2011, 04:49:21 PM
aussiegs is right
Spend the extra $10 use good oil
Spend the extra $2 use premium gas
and avoid the overheating issues
I don't think you would run into overheating issues, the way people look after their bikes on this forum you would be hard pressed to find a poorly maintained bike in this place. But yeah find the good stuff n stick with it.
Quote from: angelocardoc on October 02, 2011, 04:36:19 PM
Gas knock? Spark knock? Pre-ignition?...............................................If you use thicker oil (like 15W-40 as opposed to 10W-40) less heat dissipation will occur, thus aggravating the heat issue........................................(Disclosure...I am by no means an expert)
By the same token 15W-50 as opposed to 15W-40 will reduce heat dissipation aggravating the heat issue or to put it in simple english, my 97 and 02 GSs ran cooler on the 15W-40 oils than the 97 did on the 15W-50 oil as I said.
Should be a non-issue on the newer F models with the TPS and engine speed feedback from the electronic tach to the module retarding spark under high load conditions. Also the F models have an oil cooler not previously used on pre F model GSs.
The ethanol you make a point of also was not in the picture back around 01-02 when I switched from the 15W-50 to the 15W-40 oils, it was just plain old gasoline of various octane ratings and it was commonly held that a car, bike, or whatever ran the best on the lowest octane that would not cause gas knock. I still find it to be true on my older GSs and believe the 15W-40 Rotella JASO-MA rated oil to be the best oil currently available for my bikes.
Quote from: angelocardoc on October 02, 2011, 06:10:07 PM
I believe it was the Bush administration that mandated the supplement of ethanol in our fuel.
Here we go again... blame Bush...
Gasoline containing up to 10% ethanol has been in increasing use in the United States since the late 1970s. More... (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethanol_fuel_in_the_United_States#History_of_ethanol_in_the_U.S.)
If something is Mandated by a pollie, understand it is NOT the pollie mandating it. They are just a Puppet. A convenient person to Blame so those who truly make the decisions remain hidden and blameless.
Michael
Looks like I hit a raw nerve there. :icon_rolleyes:
I stand corrected :bowdown:
Not a big fan of the 43rd president myself, but I think political pot-shots really don't belong on a motorcycling forum unless we're in a political thread. Politics of Ethanol are much more complex than simply being an issue of executive privilege or current administration, so it comes off as ill informed and vindictive.
Not really trying to gun at you specifically... It's just a message I like to get out there. It's easy to forget that despite our common interests, there's a very wide range of political beliefs in the moto community.
Quote from: angelocardoc on October 02, 2011, 04:36:19 PM
Gas knock? Spark knock? Pre-ignition?
Wikipedia offers a good explanation. Here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking
If your carbs are set too lean you'll get great fuel economy but run hot, causing "spark knock".
Air to fuel ratio
15.4:1 = good fuel economy, run hot, high Nox emissions
12.6:1 = high power, cooler combustion temps, high HC emissions, carbon deposits.
If you use thicker oil (like 15W-40 as opposed to 10W-40) less heat dissipation will occur, thus aggravating the heat issue.
Wrong heat range of your spark plugs will also aggravate the heat issue.
Insufficient valve lash.
Auto-ignition of engine oil droplets (using poor quality oil)
Lugging the engine. (my GS runs best in the 4,000-6,000 RPM range)
Depending where you live, gas is different, cheap gas is just that! Cheap.
Here in Ontario Canada...
Regular gas is 87 octane and 10% ethanol.
Mid-grade gas is 89 octane and approx. 5% ethanol.
Premium gas is 91 or 94 octane and has no ethanol.
I am certain that 87 octane makes my GS500F less powerful.
My GS and my car both run better (more power) on 91-94 octane
So...
If your experiencing "gas knock"? This is a condition of a hot engine.
How about engine set up?
Quality of fluids?
(Disclosure...I am by no means an expert)
Run your bike on a dyno with 87 and 91 octane. Make sure to drain the tank and the carbs each time.
You'll find your bike produces the same power either way.
Quote from: angelocardoc on October 03, 2011, 09:14:57 PM
Looks like I hit a raw nerve there. :icon_rolleyes:
I'm in Australia and don't vote legitimately (it's a waste of time, my vote makes no difference, can't control them once in), even though voting is compulsory under threat of fine, so the blaming of one pollie over another and all from another country hits no nerve with me.
As burning said: Politics of [insert thing here] are much more complex than simply being an issue of executive privilege or current administration, so it comes off as ill informed and vindictive.
Whether it's Reagan, Bush, Clinton, Dubbya or Barry O what I said stands: If something is Mandated by a pollie, understand it is NOT the pollie mandating it. They are just a Puppet. A convenient person to Blame so those who truly make the decisions remain hidden and blameless.
You might think you Elect a person to lord over you, but you never think about the underlying bureaucracy and lobby groups that run the show, which are entrenched and which you never vote for.
That's all.
Michael
mmm politics .. You know the sayin ' you cant please all the people all the time' ? ... Imo the pollies see that as 'tell the people you will please all of them all the time..... Then be a complete lying bastard and tell them they are pleased anyway .. Cos the latest poll has been spun to prove it'
i still reckon forrest gump shoulda been president! ... And over here in Oz we should have Humphrey B Bear .. Cos after all if the bear cant speak the bear cant lie!
Lol
Quote from: Dr.McNinja on October 04, 2011, 08:51:10 AM
Quote from: angelocardoc on October 02, 2011, 04:36:19 PM
Run your bike on a dyno with 87 and 91 octane. Make sure to drain the tank and the carbs each time.
You'll find your bike produces the same power either way.
Not calling you out on this Doc, but where did you get this info from? Could you post dyno results to prove this? IMHO, there would be far too many variables between engines, gas stations, additives, etc to be conclusive.
This is my ballot paper from the last election... proving once again my vote made absolutely Zero difference to the outcome of the election...
(http://i.imgur.com/O4HeX.jpg)
Michael
You rebel mister!!!!!!! I see the Latham effect sits well with you.
I hate to jump on the bash Bush bandwagon, but I still haven't forgiven him the Lincoln Assassination or the Great Chicago fire.
Quote from: aussiegs on October 05, 2011, 01:15:24 AM
You rebel mister!!!!!!! I see the Latham effect sits well with you.
I'm sure I hve the previous election as well where I put Homer as Number 1. I'll post that if I can find it :icon_mrgreen:
Michael
Quote from: burning1 on October 02, 2011, 12:18:58 PM
Royal Purple is good marketing, not good oil.
I should forward your post to my neighbor. He swears that it's the best thing since beer was invented. :)
I'm using Ipone 10.4 semi-synthetic myself and it seems to work fine.
Quote from: jmelchio on October 05, 2011, 01:22:00 PM
Quote from: burning1 on October 02, 2011, 12:18:58 PM
Royal Purple is good marketing, not good oil.
I should forward your post to my neighbor. He swears that it's the best thing since beer was invented. :)
I'm using Ipone 10.4 semi-synthetic myself and it seems to work fine.
He probably drinks a lot of bud-wiser. : :flipoff: :icon_mrgreen:
Seriously though, have a look at BobIsTheOilGuy.com. Any mention of Royal Purple will usually be met with ridicule. Favorite brands over there seem to be Mobile 1, Shell Rotella & Amsoil. Redline and Motul also get some good mentions.
Quote from: Big Rich on October 05, 2011, 12:31:56 AM
Quote from: Dr.McNinja on October 04, 2011, 08:51:10 AM
Quote from: angelocardoc on October 02, 2011, 04:36:19 PM
Run your bike on a dyno with 87 and 91 octane. Make sure to drain the tank and the carbs each time.
You'll find your bike produces the same power either way.
Not calling you out on this Doc, but where did you get this info from? Could you post dyno results to prove this? IMHO, there would be far too many variables between engines, gas stations, additives, etc to be conclusive.
Likewise, find me evidence of 91 octane being any more powerful in an engine built for 87. It won't. The only thing that is different is the AKI, which is just some extra stuff added to make the fuel less combustible under pressure. Higher compression engines (which the Gs500 doe NOT have) benefit from it because it prevents predetonation. Interestingly enough the same reason high compression engines need better octane is why diesel engines work.
Anyway, anyone who tells you that it improves engine performance in an engine built for 87 octane is selling you snake oil.
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/edu/pubs/consumer/autos/aut12.shtm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating#Effects
(see effects of octane rating)
http://www.state.mn.us/mn/externalDocs/Commerce/Gasoline_Octane_Facts_102902052227_OctaneFacts.pdf
The only engines that can take advantage of the 97 octane are highly tuned engines that require it.
Higher octane kicks in around 9:1 compression ratio. That is, in theory, only those engines with higher compression ratios will benefit. The GS is right on the line. And seeing as some lower octane fuels are ethanol based, it is quite possible better performance is obtained from a higher octane fuel in a GS.
I don't think any scientific evidence is available to satisfy your request - I assume anecdotal evidence is not true evidence, right?
Looks like you'll both just have to butt heads some more...
(http://imagecache2.allposters.com/images/NGSPOD/114089-FB.jpg)
Michael
Quote from: mister on October 05, 2011, 09:46:47 PM
Higher octane kicks in around 9:1 compression ratio. That is, in theory, only those engines with higher compression ratios will benefit. The GS is right on the line. And seeing as some lower octane fuels are ethanol based, it is quite possible better performance is obtained from a higher octane fuel in a GS.
I don't think any scientific evidence is available to satisfy your request - I assume anecdotal evidence is not true evidence, right?
Looks like you'll both just have to butt heads some more...
(http://imagecache2.allposters.com/images/NGSPOD/114089-FB.jpg)
Michael
The least you could've done is used an image that didn't emasculate us :(
(http://monkeybrandz.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/Fighting-Gorillas-Flying-Kongs-in-Battle.jpg)
Very mature the both of you lol. I do however like the gorilla picture better. :D
Quote from: mister on October 05, 2011, 09:46:47 PM
Higher octane kicks in around 9:1 compression ratio. That is, in theory, only those engines with higher compression ratios will benefit. The GS is right on the line. And seeing as some lower octane fuels are ethanol based, it is quite possible better performance is obtained from a higher octane fuel in a GS.
This isn't true at all. My 04 GSX-R 600 had a 12.5:1 compression ratio, and ran just fine on 87 (as per manual, and 35K of riding experience.) Octane requirements are significantly more complex than a simple statement about the compression ratio. Operating temperature of the engine, temperature of hot-spots, spark plug heat range, displacement, operating conditions, altitude, ignition timing, engine speed and volumetric efficiency all have a huge impact on what fuel is required.
Of those things, effective compression ratio is one of the most important; CR*VE.
Quote from: burning1 on October 05, 2011, 11:34:22 PM
Quote from: mister on October 05, 2011, 09:46:47 PM
Higher octane kicks in around 9:1 compression ratio. That is, in theory, only those engines with higher compression ratios will benefit. The GS is right on the line. And seeing as some lower octane fuels are ethanol based, it is quite possible better performance is obtained from a higher octane fuel in a GS.
This isn't true at all. My 04 GSX-R 600 had a 12.5:1 compression ratio, and ran just fine on 87 (as per manual, and 35K of riding experience.) Octane requirements are significantly more complex than a simple statement about the compression ratio. Operating temperature of the engine, temperature of hot-spots, spark plug heat range, displacement, operating conditions, altitude, ignition timing, engine speed and volumetric efficiency all have a huge impact on what fuel is required.
Of those things, effective compression ratio is one of the most important; CR*VE.
I'm confused, I wrote, "In Theory" which you disagree with - disagree with the Theory that higher compression engines are more likely to have pre ignition - but then finish that one of the most important aspects of pre ignition is infact, compression ratio which you disagree with. :dunno_black: :dunno_black:
We're not gonna get all scientific manual on this again are we? Sprockets and HP and Power and sh!t?
If so, instead of spending time here with it all, better head on over to Wikipedia and correct their information: "The higher the octane number, the more compression the fuel can withstand before detonating." Here's the link to their page http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating so you can go fix it.
Michael
Quote from: mister on October 05, 2011, 12:59:01 AM
This is my ballot paper from the last election... proving once again my vote made absolutely Zero difference to the outcome of the election...
(http://i.imgur.com/O4HeX.jpg)
Michael
For future reference mister. Darth Vader should be voted number 1
Quote from: mister on October 06, 2011, 02:34:23 AMI'm confused, I wrote, "In Theory" which you disagree with - disagree with the Theory that higher compression engines are more likely to have pre ignition - but then finish that one of the most important aspects of pre ignition is infact, compression ratio which you disagree with. :dunno_black: :dunno_black:
Effective compression ratio is very different than the compression ration number quoted on the specifications.
The mechanical (or manufacturer specified) compression ratio is pretty simple; take the displacement of the cylinder, and divide that by the size of the combustion chamber. With the GS500's 9:1 compression ratio, the GS500's 243.4 cc displacement per cylinder is compressed into a combustion chamber 27cc in size.
However, this doesn't take into account how effective the engine is at filling the engine with air. E.g. A engine that's really bad at filling the engine with air won't have as much pressure in the cylinder at TDC as an engine that's very good at filling the cylinder with air. The engine's ability to fill the cylinder is usually described as the volumetric efficiency, which is affected by a huge number of factors, including the cam profile, valve timing, intake tract length, head flow characteristics, efficiency of the exhaust, back-pressure, and resistance of the air filter. Volumetric efficiency varies by RPM, but is always at it's greatest at torque peak.
Unfortunately, I don't happen to know the VE of the GS500 offhand... However, motorcycles don't typically tend to have the best VE in the world. Some cars manage to achieve a VE above 100% without using turbocharging. Turbo charged cars force air into the engine, and easily achieve VE's well in excess of 100% (A VE in excess of 125% is trivial and common with a turbo, and 200% is doable with some mods.)
Effective compression ratio takes VE into account, but almost never appears on the manufacturer spec sheets - most list the mechanical VE, as mentioned above. For that reason, mechanical compression ratio alone is not a good measure of octane requirements, especially when applied to bikes.
There's other things that you can't really apply directly from cars as well. Just today, I was reading an article stating that average piston speeds in excess of 4000FPM are very dangerous for an engine, however, doing the math showed that the redline of a modern literbike had the pistons traveling nearly 5000FPM.
Quote from: burning1 on October 06, 2011, 03:45:11 AM
Quote from: mister on October 06, 2011, 02:34:23 AMI'm confused, I wrote, "In Theory" which you disagree with - disagree with the Theory that higher compression engines are more likely to have pre ignition - but then finish that one of the most important aspects of pre ignition is infact, compression ratio which you disagree with. :dunno_black: :dunno_black:
Effective compression ratio is very different than the compression ration number quoted on the specifications.
The mechanical (or manufacturer specified) compression ratio is pretty simple; take the displacement of the cylinder, and divide that by the size of the combustion chamber. With the GS500's 9:1 compression ratio, the GS500's 243.4 cc displacement per cylinder is compressed into a combustion chamber 27cc in size.
However, this doesn't take into account how effective the engine is at filling the engine with air. E.g. A engine that's really bad at filling the engine with air won't have as much pressure in the cylinder at TDC as an engine that's very good at filling the cylinder with air. The engine's ability to fill the cylinder is usually described as the volumetric efficiency, which is affected by a huge number of factors, including the cam profile, valve timing, intake tract length, head flow characteristics, efficiency of the exhaust, back-pressure, and resistance of the air filter. Volumetric efficiency varies by RPM, but is always at it's greatest at torque peak.
Unfortunately, I don't happen to know the VE of the GS500 offhand... However, motorcycles don't typically tend to have the best VE in the world. Some cars manage to achieve a VE above 100% without using turbocharging. Turbo charged cars force air into the engine, and easily achieve VE's well in excess of 100% (A VE in excess of 125% is trivial and common with a turbo, and 200% is doable with some mods.)
Effective compression ratio takes VE into account, but almost never appears on the manufacturer spec sheets - most list the mechanical VE, as mentioned above. For that reason, mechanical compression ratio alone is not a good measure of octane requirements, especially when applied to bikes.
There's other things that you can't really apply directly from cars as well. Just today, I was reading an article stating that average piston speeds in excess of 4000FPM are very dangerous for an engine, however, doing the math showed that the redline of a modern literbike had the pistons traveling nearly 5000FPM.
Uh ha. So, after all is said and done... what I said still stands... higher octane is designed to stop pre ignition (auto detonation or knocking whichever term you choose to use). In an ideal world, the GS500 does NOT benefit from higher octane fuels. BUT, like all things, your results may vary. So try them out for yourself and go by your own results.
Michael
I agree with most of what you said. Just pointing out that you can't determine the required octane rating by looking at the manufacturer specified compression numbers. If in doubt, open the owners manual. :)
FWIW: I raced the GS on regular whenever it was available (though most tracks only sell fuel 91 octane and above.) 3000+ track miles, and the plugs showed no signs of pre-ignition damage.
fwiw .. When i bought mine i ran it on 98 for ages .. Then after reading the various threads about fuel went down to 95 for a few tanks .. Now Theres always various climate conditions on different days ... But .. While i didnt really notice any change to overall power .. On 95 the midrange seems to lag a little .. The hills seem a little longer .. On 98 again now and the bike hauls my heavy butt along nicer .. Maybe just my perception/expectations .. Maybe Age of fuel .. But i fill up at high use stations .. It just feels crisper thru the mid range acceleration?
Fuel changes during the season. I sometimes see different performance fill to fill. And yeah, a lot of it is going to be in your mind. I find that a lot of things that add *real* power can be hardly noticable after a while... E.g. Installing a Remus full system on my old BMW.
Im putting a bit of upper cylinder lube in with my fill ups see what my fuel economy, but already the engine sounds smoother. I'll let everyone know.
Quote from: aussiegs on October 13, 2011, 03:38:04 PM
Im putting a bit of upper cylinder lube in with my fill ups see what my fuel economy, but already the engine sounds smoother. I'll let everyone know.
Marvel Mystery or Lubrigas?
-Jessie
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on October 13, 2011, 03:52:20 PM
Quote from: aussiegs on October 13, 2011, 03:38:04 PM
Im putting a bit of upper cylinder lube in with my fill ups see what my fuel economy, but already the engine sounds smoother. I'll let everyone know.
Marvel Mystery or Lubrigas?
-Jessie
We're in Oz so it's probably something like Morey's (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Morey-s-Upper-Cylinder-Lubricant-1-Litre.aspx?pid=15026#Description) available at all Supercheap (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au) stores - one of our main large retailer auto accessories store.
Am curious too, Aussie. Which lube, how much per tank fill, any other Effects you notice as well such as slight rpm reduction for a given speed, different exhaust note, starting up cold differences, etc.
Michael
No moreys for me I'm using Lucas. The bottle says 100ml for every 60 liters. So I'm going about 25ml per tank. It says overdose won't hurt it. I'm running 98 fuel stock carbs and exhaust so interesting to see how we go. I was in my local auto store buying some fuel stabilizer for my mower can and thought why not get some of this and give it a go too.