well i have finally picked it up and brought it home.
here is my 89 gs500... its in rough shape.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0332.jpg)
lots of work to do...
Pittsburgh!
Got all winter long to rip that sucker apart :) :thumb:
first time seeing those colors too, not too bad
i like the white... the stripes gotta go. they're nice but i need new tail piece\s
so ill probly do a diy paint job.
So i began tearing the gs apart this evening. in about an hour and i have i already have a notebook page full of parts i need. :2guns:
to be honest i kind of expecting this... i knew the bike was laid down on the left side before i sealed the deal.
should i be able to move the top plate of the triple tree (where clip-ons and gauge pods are mounted) by gripping the bars and wiggling up and down?
have video if needed. the po tore the right control box apart. put it back together wrong...throttle twists forward. :cookoo:
found water in the right cylinder, drained the oil (more gas than oil), and also drained the carb bowls. i found a dent/imperfection in the rear wheel. only on left side of wheel tho.
pics and vid of that. i can feel the grooves in the rotors with my bare finger. (soo bad)
po had some random shift lever on it, just barely hangin on, doesnt fit on all the way.
i suppose ill list my parts wanted in the appropriate thread.
well good evening all. just thought id update you. pics on the way.
Are you in Pitt? If so, I'm right up the road from you in Ellwood.
Now that you have the water out of the piston, does the motor turn over at all?
yes I'm in Pittsburgh. specifically beechview. I'm glad to know there are other members nearby!
>:( i haven't got the water out of the cylinder yet :2guns:. i did however try to put the bike in high gear and turn rear wheel by hand.
that was a no go. i need to read my clymer more to determine which side cover i should pull off to use a ratchet to turn it over.
(battery is completely dead)+(no charger) :icon_eek:
i shall post pics and 2 vids of my progress when i get home from work. good day everyone! ride safe!
Any idea how long the water has been in there? If not, you might have a long road ahead of you......
You have got to get it out of there. Shop-vac, tipping the engine, whatever it takes. Then soak both cylinders in penetrating oil (not wd40) for a couple days. Hopefully after that you could try putting it in 2nd or 3rd gear and gently rocking it back and forth.
Rich,
no i dont know how long the water has been in there. The po said it had been in a shed most of the time he had it. pft doubt it.
i guess ill have to tip the bike over... :icon_sad: well i have a fresh can of pb blaster i was planning on using in the cylinders.
long road you say....wait till you see my needed parts list.
sigh, well lunch break is just about over. more info after work. also pics and vids.
Hey OZ, just saw this on craigs:
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/mcy/2691289942.html
I very that would save a lot of cash over buying parts separately.....
Well I got the water out. Used the battery's drain tube and syphoned the water out of the cylinder.
Then a lil Pb blaster got sprayed in. Put bike in sixth gear and presto! It turns over!
I hope you all didn't think I would actually tip the bike over. :cookoo:
still got a ways to go...next is to pull the carbs off disassemble and clean. Need a gasket kit first tho.
I also need a left side case cover. Got a lil ground down when PO laid it down. Tis leaking the life blood. :2guns:
Sorry I didn't post my pics or vids yet, will do today.
Agh! I wish that had come up a few weeks ago. Even more so wish I had another 500 available to drop on another bike
Ok. photos and vids...
is this normal? let me know if the link works please.
http://s1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/?action=view¤t=DSCN0348-4.mp4
rear wheel dent...
http://s1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/?action=view¤t=DSCN0347.mp4
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0341.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0339.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0336.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0335.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0346.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0345.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0344.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0343.jpg)
this is all for now. ill have more pics in a few days i suppose.
Great Job on pics! Did I miss somewhere on how much you paid for it? I love cheap bikes's why I ask. I hope you keep posting your progress to the end! Looks like you got good help close by if you need it (Big Rich). I got a basket case full of engine parts if you need any miscellaneous parts although I'm in Houston.
i dont remember if i posted what i paid. a dollar per cc :D
500 bucks.
btw did the vid work?
I'm always online from my phone (and at work) so I have a hard time watching vids- sorry.
While I'm not in Pitt very often, I am online a lot. But if you do need a hand with something, dont hesitate to ask. After you pull those carbs off, head to AutoZone or wherever and rent a compression tester. May as well find out early exactly far into that motor you will have to go.........
yeah ill definitly be doing a compression test. as well as checking the valve clearances.
just pulled the headlight out... a lot of water was sitting in the black casing for the wiring harnesses. :mad: hopefully the wires will be ok.
front caliper is sticking. im thinking of spraying a lil pb blaster on the pistons to try and get them 100% free. note: caliper is not completely frozen...if i give it a good smack it frees up tremendously.
thank you very much rich. im sure ill have some questions.
Just dip the entire bike in WD40 hahahaha :thumb:
seriously tho.
I would spray Something on all those rusted nuts, bolts, & screws for Days before even going deep into it.
but thats just me, since atm anything stripped = me screwed.
luckily out of a complete dismantle, only the header bolts and one rotor bolt stripped on me :bs:
hopefully the motor runs tho and u get it kickin by next spring.
Will def. have to go for a ride then, when I take a weekend trip to my brothers house who lives in Pitt.
got screwed when I planned to this year with all the flooding out this way (north east Pa)
Good luck getting her taken apart and with the engine tho :)
(edit)
well, u made out better then most of us with older GS's!
you have all your indicator caps! HAHAHAHA :thumb:
I would power wash that sucker before disassembly. :o
I would have washed it but there is no where to hook up a hose at my house.
ill just have to hand cleean each piece before I take it off/ put it on.
Yeah definitely will need some people to ride with!
Vids work, yes! My bars did the same thing. I took it all apart and put clip ons on mine though. I vaguely remember thinking 'oh that's why they were doing that.' If you search I'm sure you'll find a thread on it and a fix.
any objections to using vortex clip on replacement bars rather than oem? found them on ebay pretty cheap. i mean just the bars not the actual vortex clipons. i dont like the way they mount, just doesnt look safe enough to me... :police:
i'm having flashbacks to when i first got my bike. just keep chipping away. good luck
As long as the clip ons are of a decent quality, they are safe. Modern sport bikes use them all the time. I would actually wait until the bike is up and running and safe before buying clip ons though.
sigh... waiting to get paid so i can begin buying parts. this waiting is killing me :2guns:
first part shall be a stator cover and possibly a stator. cover is cracked and rashed badly.
after the cover ill need a carb gasket kit. then new oil & air filters. then battery. i think that will get me up and running.
we shall see.
More pics and another video.
your opinions on the fork travel in this video would be greatly appreciated.
http://s1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/?action=view¤t=DSCN0361.mp4
as you can see no leakage to speak of from forks... this leads me to believe they may just need the oil changed?
can anyone advise me on whether or not i should replace the springs to suit my weight? or is there adjustments that can be made?
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0358.jpg)
more pics of damage
rear axle nut
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0387.jpg)
hmmm maybe some epoxy to seal it up?
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0402.jpg)
water was sitting in here... should i be concerned?
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0350.jpg)
no dry rot here or in between tread. going to check the date codes in a few mins.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0354.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0388.jpg)
comments concerns advice welcomed
Personally, I would plan on replacing the fork seals with new oil. And it seems like a LOT of people upgrade the springs up front, but you might want to search around for more info.
What exactly is that in the 3rd pic? I wouldn't be too concerned with some water inside that part of the wiring yet. The insulation around the wires should protect them. Oh ya- plan on getting new tires. The rubber surface can actual harden if they just sat for a while. Hard rubber = crappy traction.
lol oh sorry thats the bottom side of the speedo. the black stuff is remains of the damper ring that cushions the speedo in the bracket. i figure i can epoxy the crack up and continue using the original speedo.
as for the forks... i was thinking the same. just reseal and oil them perhaps with some new springs and or spacers to stiffen it up a bit. hmm maybe a "new" used rear shock while im at it...
well the date codes say 0202 front 1202 rear. so im thinking new rubber. read alot of good reviews about the sport demons via pirelli. hey bike bandit! order up!
Imho, bikebandit could have ......."better" prices. Look around at www.denniskirk.com as well.
yep bikebandit def has better price by a long shot. but dennis kirk has that beat it by a buck thing. makes ya go hmmmm.
I found ronayers.com was cheaper on a few things I picked up. Please ask if you need engine parts and I'll see what's in the basket case. You pay the shipping though,... 8)
So I have decided that I'm goin to pull the head and cylinders off.
I had seen a few streaks of rust on the walls with the plugs out.
Figure it'd be best to break it down and clean em up before I try to get it running.
I'm hoping a light deglazing will be all that's needed. :crossed fingers:
oh good just what I was hoping for
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0427.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0424.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0407.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0408.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0416.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0418.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0413.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0412.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0423.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0422.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0431.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0430.jpg)
I will need new pistons, possibly valves, and valve guides. Will try to salvage cylinder head after breaking off two exhaust bolts.
Will clean and hone jugs. And didn't I just go ahead and break one cooling fin. :technical:
Intake cam, left side has scratches at tip of lobe and chip on edge at the end of ramp.
Looks like I need a lot of top end parts.
you can find a lot of those engine parts on ebay
And the winner is Pa cycle salvage! entire top end for $175! :woohoo:
keep your eyes peeled parts whores... i still need some stuff.
nice :thumb:
ya'know.... i Gotta be sick in the head as before working on them I would of said otherwise, but I was just thinking.. that looks fun!
hahaha :dunno_black:
Still alot of work to go man :thumb:
you are absolutely right tombstones81! it is fun. im glad to have something of my own to wrench on now. :cheers:
ever since i was a teen i worked on all my friends toys, never had one of my own... now i do and feels goooooood! :woohoo:
sure do have alot of work to do still. waiting on some parts so i can move forward. :thumb:
I ordered a new set of rubber cushions for my speedo and tach once, I think they were only a couple dollars each.
I never had the time to do this kind of thing myself, and you can definitely dig yourself a money pit fixing all the little bits.
I think you will be able to find most of what you need for used parts through the forum, and probably for a better price that on eBay.
yeah im not too pressed for time. however things are moving at a snails pace right now.
as for parts i got a bunch knocked out in one shot. after they arrive i will be pursuing the top end.
after that the carbs will need attention. after the carbs i will move on to putting new springs and oil in forks. maybe new fork seals. (they arent leaking now)
parts, parts, parts and more parts. the way things are going my original goal is still attainable. to have ready to ride by next season.
well progress is still slow. thanks to a couple members here ive got a good deal of my needed parts. still more to come.
as of late november the top end has been off the engine (waiting for new top end). now ive noticed a bit of gravel in the front oil gallery.
im wondering if it would be sufficient to remove the oil pan and "flush" everything down? i am really trying to avoid total rebuild here. even though
i know better than that. should do the full rebuild if i want to make sure its going to last me as long as i hope for. (forever :icon_twisted: )
i have seen on beer garage that he had a similar issue, though im not sure he clarified whether or not he did split the case.
Check with BaltimoreGS for some engine parts.
Oz, what do you mean by gravel? Literally, little chunks of rocks? All it takes is one little tiny stone to block an oil passage and your motor will toast itself.
While you certainly can pull the pan off and try to flush the motor, I would highly recommend splitting the cases. With the top end assembled (cams, drive chain, etc but not the pistons) you can pull just the bottom case off. That is where the vast majority of any gritty stuff would be.
rich, this is how she currently sits...
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0430.jpg)
yes i mean tiny little stones. (sigh) i suppose ill split the case then. i better get some plasti-gauge.
gonna have to make sure all the bearings are within spec, all galleries clear, i hope i wont need any bottom end parts...
this is quickly turning into a major project. oh well, once its done it will last me. (if i do it right) fingers crossed.
i wish i had a decent air compressor at home. would make all this so much simpler.
so i went to pa cycle salvage today. i had intended on only bringing home a top end... :icon_eek:
instead for ten dollars more than they quoted me for top end, they gave me a whole engine, minus a few parts, from a 91 model.
original quote...175. so for 185 i have a case topend and internals. :cheers:
pics shortly
(edit) and here they are.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0434.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0438.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0439.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0437.jpg)
im hoping after a tear down, cleaning and rebuild this engine will be in better shape than the original
^^^ nice man! :thumb:
glad u got a nice deal
Quote from: oz353 on November 04, 2011, 06:46:01 PM
i like the white... the stripes gotta go. they're nice but i need new tail piece\s
so ill probly do a diy paint job.
Maybe you can build something like this in white color ;)
(http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p498/xobat/AHSLEYFullAccessoris.jpg)
+1 on white
So, it has been a while since I've updated.
As you can see I got the spare parts engine from the bike bone yard. Much to my dismay, when I pulled the head off I found that the right cylinder was rusted badly. (the engine had sat on its side and got a little moisture in there.) I got what I could off and discovered very light pitting. (sorry no pics of all this. Did it all at work on spare time.) So what was I to do with thrift in mind?
I lightly sanded entire cylinder with 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper (wet with solvent) had solvent flowing constantly. Got alot of the corrosion off. Then I took a three stone cylinder hone, which was much to big I might add (4"), and proceeded to hone both cylinders. I got them pretty d@m smooth with a decent crosshatch. The pitting was not very deep. When dragging a fingernail through cylinder it only caught in one spot (not around entire cylinder only a spot about the size pin head) and it really didnt even catch. like running over a extremely minor imperfection in a piece of glass.
I also split both cases, the bone yard one first for practice :icon_eek:. I cleaned out the original case and slapped everything back together.
I am currently awaiting a generator from burning1 and once that is on I will perform a compression test. (I should have measured everything but I didnt have all the tools I needed easily available :technical:) For some reason I dont think hand cranking the engine will be sufficient for a compression test. If the compression is way low or out of spec I will need new jugs and rings. Sheesh I am really burning through cash just trying to get the engine right! :mad: I still need fresh tires, new pads and rotors and would like ss lines and new pegs.
I am also awaiting bar tubes rear plastics and a fresh set of forks set up for my weight thanks to addidasguy!
I'll be putting fresh seals and possibly cartridge emulators in the new forks. I also plan to do the R6 rear shock mod.
Im going to have to rejet because i got a drop in k&n from afterbooster in the box o parts he sent me. So ill have the drop in k&n and a stock exhaust unless i come across a set of cut pipes to put a slip-on on. Hmm thats redundant. haha. perhaps a vance and hines full system eventually.
Ps. does anyone know what weight the newer model fork springs best support? I weigh between 170 and 180. (It fluctuates alot)
Might be able to help out with some of the stuff. Shoot a PM.
Trying to clean out some of the extras. Just picked up a pair of calipers and rotors front and rear with 1000 miles only. $60 for all, so that frees up some of the rotors and calipers with 4000 miles. My best find was a set with 240 miles. I love getting parts after squids smash up their brand new bike. I cry for the bike. Got some extra SS likes, I think. I find SS lines don't twist and bend like rubber ones. Being picky how they fit, I may order some custom SS lines for the front due to angles of MS on the clip-ons and distance to the calipers.
PS: The extra newer springs I sent are better than the originals in the forks. If tight on $ right now, put those in and maybe add another inch of pre-load. Go heavier oil and you'll be alright for now. I'm 170 and newer springs are "OhKay" but 0.85's are really ideal I have found. Do the suggested and you'll be alright until you can afford 0.85's. Put money elsewhere and avoid running up a curb or going fast over a 2" driveway entrance (slow down a little so you don't bottom out). Handling wise on turns you will be fine.
For your weight, I don't think you need the R6 shock. Stock feels fine except when I have a passenger (only once, taking the seller of a parts bike back to the beach). Adjusting stock stiffer should be enough. Suggest saving that mod for later. Put money into the important things right now.
While cash is tight, go for the safety issues like brakes and tires. Leave the fluff (like changing rear shock) until later.
think you might be fine with the stock fork springs at that weight.
recall reading somewhere on these forums that someone asked if they would be fine and they weighed 150, replies were they would be fine.
so up to 30 pounds more might not be too much.
Fork springs are an easy swap to do, so I would honestly wait until your riding around on it and decide for yourself.
http://beergarage.com/GSForks.aspx
theres the link for changing the oil from the forks being on the bike at the start.
changing springs is pretty much the same procedure.
except with my progressive springs, I had to cut another spacer from the tube that was supplied with them.
Awesome! Thanks for the input fellas. All advice I get here is always taken into consideration.
I did in fact have my eye on some .85's this is why i asked about the newer springs. i absolutely will use the newer springs in the forks your sending me. will put them in when i put the new seals in. then i can put the .85's in the set i have on now when im ready to rebuild them. Yay for 0 downtime! (snicker at self) gotta get the up and running time first dummy.
for the brakes the budget side of my mind says get the used stuff yet the safety side says get spankin new. what to do what to do.
how badly to the ss lines fit with 89' clip ons? gotta pic by chance?
Thanks Tomb... i have seen that, and baltimoregs's video. god i love the wealth of information on this forum.
Just got done cleaning the clusterf*** of a basement preparing to move.
totally forgot I have 3 cylinders, thought I had 2 at first.
one cbr sent me is on my bike.
another one next to my desk I bought on ebay thats got some bad rust damage on the inside. (they coulda posted better pics ><)
and my old one which is still perfectly fine, but needs to be honed. (which I can do)
had some upper engine problems lately.
hopefully that will all be fixed finally when I take care of the last thing on the list, which is 2 tight valves. (to make it short)
going to be a week until I get the new shims delivered and do another compression test.
so if that all works out and shes running 100% again.
Then I will have an extra cylinder section of the motor available if yours doesnt pan out for ya from the rust.
which is the one that was on there before I broke an exhaust valve from a stuck bucket.
zero problems with it at all, from my 94.
Wow thanks tomb! Ill keep that in mind. I have a feeling ill need that. I hope all goes well for you! Im trying to move soon myself. I found a nice duplex with a garage! Ill finaly have my own garage! (if everything goes well)
Addidasguy: I think taking you up on the offer for the brakes would be the best rout for me to go. Itll 0e a short while till I can make another parts purchase. However I would like to reserve those parts if I could. And the ss lines.
no problem.
Just showing someone else the same courtesy Cbr showed me.
Just pay for shipping ""IF"" I dont need it and thats it.
which shouldnt be much since it will be going from the Wilkes Barre / Scranton area only to Pitt.
heck, the cylinders, head, and a piston only ran $25 from Texas!
Even if I continue to have problems, I doubt I will need it tho.
My problems have had nothing to do with the cylinders, but everything above it and one piston that got damaged on the top from the exhaust valve breaking from a stuck valve bucket.
but, I wanna be better safe then sorry first. (goin by my bad luck) hahaha
so hopefully all she needs are those 2 new shims.
and nice on the garage!
Im going from a warm basement to the cold outdoors :(
Think I might just build myself a decently sized shed tho, specifically for motorcycle work and storage.
Ok, so i have a new question...
i just put the new bar tubes on that i got from addidasguy. (thanks for the parts guy!) and i noticed that when i turn the bars from stop to stop, they go farther left than right. is this normal?
i double checked that nothing was interfering with its motion. the lower triple is clearly hitting the tab on the neck as it should, however it appears that the tab is off set? :dunno_black: can anyone verify this on a known unwrecked bike?
can take pics if needed.
I suggested this stuff to a guy with a rusty tank...
http://www.evaporust.com/
Maybe you could salvage some rusty parts with this. I've used it on a rusty tank as well as on some bolts and stuff off an old Honda. It's not toxic, btw. I know it's a little pricey for a gallon, but it would be cheaper than buying some parts that you might be able to salvage.
cool! thanks for the advisory notice. however i really need an answer to my last question if anyone could?
I probably missed it, but what bar tubes? Handle bars or the 89 clip ons?
rich, i have an '89 with original '89 clip ons. so i had just replaced the bar tubes. both were bent. the left alot more than the right. so i replaced both of them. after bolting them on i found that when i turn the bars from stop to stop the left bar comes almost parallel with the frame. but when i turn the bars all the way to the right the right bar doesn't even come close to parallel.
shall i post some pics of what I'm pathetically trying to describe?
(edit) I think i shall...
this is turned full left. against stopper tab.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0449.jpg)
this is full right, also against stopper tab.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0450.jpg)
this is the tab im speaking of.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0455.jpg)
...from the front....
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0457.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0458.jpg)
so is that normal or should i be worried?
I see what you're saying now. Sounds like your top clamp (and mounts) might be twisted. Do you have a top clamp from a later year GS? Might try putting normal handle bars on.
no... i got what you see. i was thinking maybe the tab shifted. i don't know... if I'm replacing the triple clamps and all that i want the same as i have now. i really like how that looks and feels.
so this is definitely not normal for the gs?
Sorry Oz, I can't tell you what's normal for a GS. I do want to say it's not normal for any bike though. The stem should turn the same amount each direction and the bars should be the same distance from the tank at each extreme.
But not knowing anything about the 89 top clamp, you could post pics and hopefully somebody else can help more than me.
well, for anyone following this... according to the findings of the great :bowdown: addidasguy, this issue of turning further one way than the other (further left than right) appears to be normal. possibly a screw up by the guy welding the frames together.
things to note about my bike in particular: the stopper tab welded to the neck is not quite centered. also the stopper tab on neck is not uniformly shaped. (different angles on left and right side of the tab)
im almost positive that all F.E. parts are straight. if anyone knows how to verify (prior to test ride) i would greatly appreciate the info.
Yep - looks like that tab is not welded in the right way. Possible it got torqued a little to the left in a bad fall. It is odd the paint is coming off of the weld.
How far past the position to lock the steering (with the key) does it go? It SHOULD stop at right about where the key locks the steering.
To go more right, you can grind some off of that tab.
I do find a little variation in left/right on some bikes but not as much as I see on yours.
PS: I see you said the left bar was really bent. Sounds like bike dropped hard on left - bent bar AND the steering stop tab. I wonder if the bearing collar and that part of the steering stem is still round. Have you taken off the steering column and examined the lower bearing collar? Looked inside the steering tube from the bottom side to see if there are any signs of damage? (i.e. not perfectly round)
:dunno_white: no i havent disassembled the FE yet. i will definitely keep an eye out for out of roundness.
You got all the controls off so it is simple.
2 bolts for the top triple to loosen from the forks. And the steering stem bolt. Lift off the top triple with the top plate. The rest of the front end will fall out the bottom.
Take pictures and let us know what you find. Hopefully there is no damage to the lower bearing collar. If not round anymore - I'm not sure what to do other than replace the frame. If there is damage to the steering tube BUT the bearing collar is round, you're OK. Grind off part of that tab so the steering will go more to the right.
:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: >:( >:( >:( >:( :technical: :technical: :technical: :technical: :technical: :technical: :technical: :bs: :bs: :sad:
i think i may very well cry now...
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0467.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g422/oz353/DSCN0468.jpg)
i guess i need a titled frame now. how much is that gonna run me. F*#&(!!!!!!
ive now wasted my time and money for nothing.
not sure what im lookin at, but that really sucks if its a pic of being boned :(
could try the salvage yard u got a deal on the engine at.
not sure your financial situation but im pretty certain it would be cheaper then a running motor.
well, if your going to continue...
I can at least TRY to cheer u up a bit.
tho I can somewhat know how u feel and it wont help as a few times I thought I was boned on my engine.
dont need the extra cylinders I have for sure now.
which are in fine working condition.
so when u move forward with or without the bike.
let me know.
It'll be sittin here waitin for ya
(edit)
just checked ebay.
whole ton of them from what seems to be from the same seller for $50 +$150 shipped pretty much.
all seem to not include the removable section on the side of the motor tho.
might wanna send them a msg and see if any have the title.
thanks tomb, i was looking at those. particularly the ones from pinwall. they are located two hours from me. they state that the title is sent back to state of ohio upon tear down. so that means research as to if i may title the frame here in pa.
i have read quite a few threads of other peoples title issues. perhaps i should reread some of those.
the pictures are of the collar, the bearing race is pressed into, bent. this gives possibility to the bearing shifting while riding.
i have thought, for a brief moment, of just hammering it back a bit. however i do not think that would help. if i shine a light down from the top i can see light from around the race in the place thats bent.
sudden thought, if its bent right here whos to say the rest of this frame isnt tweaked. to my untrained eye it seems straight. although my instinct is telling me this bike went down HARD :icon_eek:. its probably bent and just havent noticed yet.
ouch!
Yeah and if u can get it in place with mere pressure from a hammer, imagine the damage from riding.
aka: big pot hole etc etc
I guess try the for sale section and ask if anyone has one while you figure things out.
hope it ends up good man, Im lookin forward to someone showin me around Pitt on a bike vs my brother in a car when i go visit hahaha
that would sure be nice if it can be ready by then.
im thinking perhaps in the mean time i can strip the frame all the way down and use it for testing the engine, once my generator rotor arrives. very anxious for that. want to see if it will run. ill be able to bolt it in there and perform compression testing and possibly run. this way i can still get the engine squared away whilst i have a pity party about the frame.
Ouch! I feel bad about that and it seems to be what I figured. I hate to be the one to point out bad news. But better knowing it now than later. That bike really had a bad fall. I kind of suspected that when you mentioned the left bar was really bent bad.
I wonder if you could cut off the steering tube and weld another one on? I do have an un-titled frame 1989 that could be cannibalized. The rear had been cut up and trashed, so basically it is a trashed frame but the front is good.
You might be able to get a machine shop to pound it back and re-true the collar area and put in a new bearing collar.
That really is the shitz.
PS: I see you are close to Pinwall. I bet they can tell you what to do. I have bought a ton of parts from them. Probably would involve a bill of sale then an inspection. That's what Washington would require for a salvage title.
I think you might be right about the rest of the frame not being true. Looking at that photo again, I wouldn't trust the rest of the frame. See what Pinwall can do for you.
Quote from: oz353 on February 25, 2012, 06:34:03 PM
that would sure be nice if it can be ready by then.
im thinking perhaps in the mean time i can strip the frame all the way down and use it for testing the engine, once my generator rotor arrives. very anxious for that. want to see if it will run. ill be able to bolt it in there and perform compression testing and possibly run. this way i can still get the engine squared away whilst i have a pity party about the frame.
kk lil advice since you redid at least the top part of the motor.
or going to etc etc
so much going on, I cant keep track of everything haha
I wouldnt worry for a low compression after that work.
I got low numbers before I even took her for a ride.
which had me thinking the motor might need to be replaced.
read and read and read and read.
one thing that was pretty constant.
dont bank on numbers being correct off the bat until its broken in properly and everything gets seated.
mine is running better then it did before and I had a wide range of low numbers on my compression tests before I even took it for a spin.
now to just get the oil leak fixed :thumb:
(edit)
and I wouldnt worry about engine gaskets until you are sure its running good.
and after you have a titled frame to put it in.
you def. dont wanna be taking the engine apart again after putting new gaskets in if you've ran the motor a bit.
(edit again)
ugh im all over the place today! hahaha
even if you dont have it all together and 100% by the time I take my vacation this spring or summer and head out to Pitt(if I even can with low staff at work)
I can at least help ya wrench on it as other then Sat and Sun, my brother works LONG hours.
So I will need something else to do lol
Wow. When it rains it pours i guess.
Just looked on Craigslist and saw this one:
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/mcy/2854272689.html
Or for a couple hundred more I could sell you a bone stock 83 GR650! Kidding Oz - hope you get some good news soon.
Id powerwash it with a pressure washer with simple green in it, dry it, bathe it in wd40, than spray liquid wrench on every single bolt, and let it sit for two weeks.
Quote from: xunedeinx on February 25, 2012, 11:50:33 PM
Id powerwash it with a pressure washer with simple green in it, dry it, bathe it in wd40, than spray liquid wrench on every single bolt, and let it sit for two weeks.
Dip tank. The amount of pbblaster for a frame sized dip tank would beworth more than the bike though.
Ill bet you $2 your wheel bearings, swing arm pivot, and all cables are toast too.
bad news bro :cry:
had a bad oil leak below the cylinders.
gasket I bought was total garbage.
took the whole top end off yet again.
noticed 2 BAD scratches down the cylinder walls. (too bad to use it)
so now I have to use my old cylinders that I was hoping to send your way :cry: :cry:
A West Seattle GS500 Club Member showed me a hardened steel cone shaped tool used to re-round out a bicycle steering collar. I guess mountain bikes get that bent a lot. Look into that at a good bicycle shop. Maybe they can fix the steering tube.
Quote from: ohgood on February 26, 2012, 02:26:23 AM
Ill bet you $2 your wheel bearings, swing arm pivot, and all cables are toast too.
I have plenty of swing arms and some cables.
No spare bearings. Oh, wait - there might be a good set of used steering column bearings and even a steering stem triple.
i think im leaning further toward finding a already running rideable bike. im going to offer the guy from this...http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=59369.0 ... $800 cash. if he doesnt go for it, i will return my attention to this scrap pile and consider that bike tool addidasguy mentioned. if thats a no go, ill just keep my eyes peeled for a new frame or ready to ride bike.
Just found out one of my parts sources here has a blue GS500 for sale - older model with newer engine. I think shipping cost would kill the deal.
If you do decide to abandon this bike, i would be more than happy to buy the top triple plate (is that what its called?) and bars off of it.
indeed that would kill the deal. unless.....i flew out there. :cookoo: not likely.
yes ninjeff thats what its called as far as i know. unfortunately ill be keeping that so i can put it on what ever i get. (if it doesnt already have the 89 clip ons) if i get something with 89 clips ill be glad to sell.
Cool dude! Good luck!