I'm a relatively new rider, and I've yet to run out of gas in the ON position, so I've never had to use the reserve. How does the bike act when it needs to be switched? If it runs out of gas, I assume the engine dies, but if you're in gear and don't get the clutch pulled in in time, won't the wheel lock up and put you in danger? Do you usually switch to reserve while you're riding, or do you pull over and do it?
So far I've been playing it safe and filling up every 150 - 175 km or so. I've got a '99 with a 17 liter tank (including reserve), but haven't yet bothered to calculate mpg. I suppose I should.
Okay. Put your bike on the center stand. Sit on it as if you are riding. Now reach down below your thigh behind your knee/calf to the petcock and switch it from On to Res. Put your hands back on the bars. Now switch it back. Repeat, repeat repeat.
That is how easy it is to do on the go.
When you run low on gas from the On position, the rear wheel will NOT lock up. The engine starts to slowly die is all. Flicking it to reserve at this point will bring it back to life.
I suggest: Start with a full tank and set the trip meter to zero. Ride until you hit reserve and take note of the distance. Go fill up, switch back to ON, reset the trip meter and ride until you hit reserve again. Take note of the distance. If it is hitting res around 200km, then you now know, next time you get near 200 it will likely be coming to reserve. So you can fill up before this happens. (200km is just an example. My bike hits res around 300-330-360 depending on how I agressively I am riding or how long I remain in lower gears, such as sitting in 5th for 5000-5500rpm for 10 to 15 minutes instead of clicking up to 6th cause I might need the extra acceleration 5th could give.
Michael
Only if you are asleep when you need to switch it!
Seriously though, the first thing that happens (especially if you are riding down hill) is the bike begins to sputter and pop. Right away this comes to mind: "wtf is that about?". Then you will realize it just needs flipped over to reserve.
The bike will have enough momentum at normal speeds that the engine will continue to turn over. The wheel won't lock up unless you are going under 5mph or so with the clutch out.
Edit: Mister types much faster than me.
Thanks guys. That's reassuring.
I'll try it on the center stand as suggested.
Learn to switch it with the bike moving. It could be the difference between you making it to your destination and you getting rear ended by the @$$hole not paying attention behind you.
When I ran out of fuel it was perfectly timed. I ran out while I was at a stop light and noticed that I had to crank the throttle to get the bike to idle. It would die if I didn't. After a certain point (I barely made it to the nearest parking lot) I realized I ran out of fuel and switched it to reserve. I would've done it on-the-fly but I was afraid my bike wasn't out of gas and something was horribly wrong. There wasn't any sputters and pops.
These are things that should be answered in the motorcycle safety courses. You learn quickly what running out of gas feels like and you developed a habit of always making sure there is gas on the tank (and your trip meter is correct).
My GS cuts off one cylinder for some reason when I hit reserve (usually around 200 miles.). I have a CRF250 petcock, which is fairly easy to index and switch to reserve while I am still rolling.
Quote from: Traveller on November 09, 2011, 10:02:54 AM
Thanks guys. That's reassuring.
I'll try it on the center stand as suggested.
Practice with the engine running, riding in a parking lot. The centerstand isn't nearly as task intensive.
The bike will COUGH and sputter a little, that's the warning, then it dies. You have 5-7 seconds to swap over before the bowls are empty...scarey at speed.
The point of practicing on the center stand is so you know where it is Before you do it on the fly. Even doing it in a parking lot or riding and doing it on a side road while you do not need to do it, it is wise to get the hang of it on the center stand first.
When I first hit res on the GS I was fumbling around and could not find it. I couldn't find it because I was fumbling where res had been on a previous bike. Once I learned Where the frame petcock was and could change it on the go and how to keep an eye on the trip meter as an indication of how close I was, it made changing easier. But also, didn't surprise me when the bike started acting sluggish near the distance it would need res.
Probably the most harrowing time I needed res was midway overtaking a truck. Cause I use the trip meter I knew it was getting close, so when I got 3/4 into the pass and the bike started to die, I calmly reached down, flicked to res, the bike immediately picked up and I completed the maneuver. Not recommended for those who are not confident in switching to res on the fly.
Michael
Now if only I could get those darn emergency flashing lights to work :technical:
I do think its dangerous to do it while riding. That is why I run it in reserve and fill up every 125 on a GS. The trip meter I use just for this purpose.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: lucky4034 on November 09, 2011, 01:07:29 PM
Now if only I could get those darn emergency flashing lights to work :technical:
I already did a headlight cut-out when starting for the older bikes. I suppose I can do a 4-way flasher circuit for our bikes.
Shouldn't be much more than a switch and a relay.......
adidasguy loves to play with electricity :icon_twisted:
Quote from: adidasguy on November 09, 2011, 02:45:13 PM
Quote from: lucky4034 on November 09, 2011, 01:07:29 PM
Now if only I could get those darn emergency flashing lights to work :technical:
I already did a headlight cut-out when starting for the older bikes. I suppose I can do a 4-way flasher circuit for our bikes.
Shouldn't be much more than a switch and a relay.......
adidasguy loves to play with electricity :icon_twisted:
How about a separate turn signal light indicator system for the turn signals? Using the neutral indicator for the left? LCDs? I missed it if you already wrote it up... Thanks, Al
Quote from: lucky4034 on November 09, 2011, 01:07:29 PM
Now if only I could get those darn emergency flashing lights to work :technical:
Why would you want them? They're no better than braking. People aren't going to blow by you any slower if you kick on your emergency lights than if you're just braking alone. The only differential here is that the guy behind you sees you. You could blare train horns and have a christmas tree ejected rearward at the car behind you and if they never see you they'll never stop.
Maybe I'm just used to using my brake to stop tailgaters, but if you haven't noticed your brake lights kick on WAY before your actual brake engages. Turn off your bike and slowly squeeze the front brake. The click you here is the noise indicating your rear light is on (which I suspect to be a simple switch). If your bike starts dying, don't get on the brakes - rather just hold your brake at the "light point" to let the people know you're in trouble and you're slowing down. They'll slam on their brakes thinking you're braking hard (people that aren't paying attention do this) and you'll have plenty of room to move over and stop. I'd argue this method might even be quicker than having an independent switch somewhere in your controls to turn on all 4 turn signals and blink them.
Why would you want Emergency Flashers?
Think flashing lights help? Didn't help this guy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ynXnGcOn4Uc
Michael