Hey guys. I got a headlight, whohoo! and I'm getting my turn signals squared away now. As soon as I put everything together it worked for a hot minute, then a bulb blew up front. The previous owner said he thought his son put LED turn signals in the back, and he could never get them to work right. He says he thinks turn signal LEDS and my 2009 GS500 are incompatible, something about the structure of the wiring harness. I wasn't able to search out much info on this either way, I'd appreciate any help or links to more information.
Thanks!
-w
As long as you have a turn signal relay made to handle the ultra low wattage of led bulbs, they should be good. Well, that, and a diode at the indicator bulb so the signals don't cross.
If the bulb burnt out because of a short in the wiring, than that has nothing to do with the LED signals.
Oh, a question about LED blinkers, never thought I'd live to see that..................
Rich, are there any posted guides on this subject? Where can I find more information?
Mole, you appear to be genuinely touched by the discovery of a new thread on your favorite topic! I am filled with joy to think I was able to brighten the day of my fellow man. I'm so happy to meet people like you who are unafraid to reach out and make a connection, even when they have nothing to contribute. Have a great day, citizen!
I think Adidas has a nice little write up somewhere on the diode (probably even the led flasher relay as well). I don't have them bookmarked or anything though. Sorry!
Cool, I'll ask him if he'll take a look.
If this is a tired issue, shouldn't it be stickied or added to the wiki or something?
My current issue is regarding tail signals installed by the previous owner. http://amzn.to/sNUA4N (http://amzn.to/sNUA4N)
They appear to be directly wired to the following flasher unit:
GUILERA brand Electronic Flasher
12V 21+21+3,4W
01234OS
38610-01D10
Front signals are conventional, and blowing through bulbs. What does yall make of this?
I've never had the pleasure of blowing bulbs, so I really can't provide a solution. Sorry.
All the flasher relays I've used are from www.superbrightleds.com. So yours is unfamiliar to me. Do they blink at all, or all stay in constant, etc?
If it is the correct bulb, they won't be blowing out. Did they have 6v bulbs? A 12v bulb won't blow with the 12-14v the bike produces. I can't think of anything that blows the bulbs except if they are the wrong voltage of bulb.
Swapping the tail for LEDs wouldn't blow bulbs, either. Worst case is it would change the flash rate due to different load. With the flasher replaced, that would no longer be an issue.
Wires are color coded (at least the original wires). You should examine the wiring diagram for your bike and trace where things are going. You can search past posts for wiring diagrams, look in a Clymer or Haynes book, a Suzuki service manual or do a Google search.
The Superbright flasher relay is good.
FYI: The flasher goes to +12 and then to the turn signal switch. The turn signals go to ground and the turn signal switch. They should not be connected to the flasher as far I have been able to determine, unless that turn signal relay has +12, flash, and ground. And one side of the turn signals is connected to the ground of the relay which would be OK.
Quote from: Steel on December 01, 2011, 02:31:17 PM
Mole, you appear to be genuinely touched by the discovery of a new thread on your favorite topic! I am filled with joy to think I was able to brighten the day of my fellow man. I'm so happy to meet people like you who are unafraid to reach out and make a connection, even when they have nothing to contribute. Have a great day, citizen!
I'm sorry if you found my post less than helpful, but if you'd done a search you'd have found a lot of contributions from me trying to help people fix their LED flasher issues. The simple answer for reliable, easily visible flashers is to PUT THE STANDARD ONES BACK ON.
I've now given up on people who modify things that work perfectly well, don't understand what they're doing and then want help to fix :2guns: :technical:.
Yes, I know it was the PO that f*cked with yours Steel, so this doesn't apply to you, you're just caught in the crossfire of my meltdown. I should have said "duck".
Quote from: the mole on December 02, 2011, 02:33:41 AM
Quote from: Steel on December 01, 2011, 02:31:17 PM
Mole, you appear to be genuinely touched by the discovery of a new thread on your favorite topic! I am filled with joy to think I was able to brighten the day of my fellow man. I'm so happy to meet people like you who are unafraid to reach out and make a connection, even when they have nothing to contribute. Have a great day, citizen!
I'm sorry if you found my post less than helpful, but if you'd done a search you'd have found a lot of contributions from me trying to help people fix their LED flasher issues. The simple answer for reliable, easily visible flashers is to PUT THE STANDARD ONES BACK ON.
I've now given up on people who modify things that work perfectly well, don't understand what they're doing and then want help to fix :2guns: :technical:.
Yes, I know it was the PO that f*cked with yours Steel, so this doesn't apply to you, you're just caught in the crossfire of my meltdown. I should have said "duck".
We must be due for another oil thread or chain lube thread about now...
Michael
Maybe a "I just bought a bike, sitting for 5 years. The tires LOOK like they have tread but are cracking and about 12 years old. Should I replace the tires or will these last me another 3 years?" thread. :wink:
It is always hard to un-do what a bad PO did. My best suggestion is GET THE WIRING DIAGRAM and start putting things back. Like said, nothing beats putting the originals back on. Then when things are working as originally intended, you can modify. Easier to make things work as original than to try to figure out how to get a PO's hack job of wiring to function correctly.
BY THE WAY: if blowing out lights, have you checked the voltage at the battery? With the bike running, around 14 volts. If high, you have a bad voltage regulator. High voltage will fry lights. (Sorry, my voltage regulator video is not edited yet.)
I need to buy a multimeter. :/
Mine's a 2009 and chronic age problems are among the last things I check for. Also, you're right, I should remind myself that a little common sense and the scientific method will get me through any problem I could encounter in mechanics. If that statement was absolute though there would be no need for places like this...
You come here to get pointed in the right direction. Keeps you from tearing into things that don't need tearing in to.
I think everyone should have a decent meter and a wiring diagram. Those two things will let you diagnose just about any electrical problem on a GS. And don't forget a few dollars for a good manual, like a Haynes or Clymer.
Tracing wires: pretty much the same thing as tracing a fuel line or vacuum line. gas at point A and no gas at point B = pinched or blocked fuel line. Electricity at point A (brake switch) and not at point B (stop light) = broken wire. Follow wire to locate the break OR bad connector. At least wires are color coded, hoses are plain black.
This forum desperately needs a sense of humor....either that or it needs to recognise that certain members have one :D
:bowdown: Terry Thomas and all comedians of the early days of TV.
blowing bulbs is odd. maybe it has some unique wiring hack that puts too much amperage to the front lights ?
the only non-led signals i've seen as bright as thte stockers are the buell stockers. very nice addition to the gs i might add.
if you do LED, you you will need:
electronic flasher to replace mechanical
resistors
diodes
do a write up if/when you get yours setup, along with where you got the LED signals and some before / after shots. there are a ton of very poorly performing LED lights, I'd hope you do lots of research before ordering any cheap units.
O0
You can not put too much amperage through a light bulb. It will only use what it needs.
You CAN put too much VOLTAGE and that will blow the lights.
Look at it this way: Your house may have a 100 amp circuit. A 100 watt bulb will only use 100 watts. Whether on a 2 amp or 500 amp circuit, only 100 watts. However, if you have 220v and 110v in your house, connecting a 110v bulb to 220v will blow it.
In the motorcycle, if your voltage regulator is putting out too much voltage, those 12v bulbs can blow at 18v or more.
Likewise, if you are buying 6v bulbs, they will always blow.
Be sure your bulbs are the correct voltage and check the bike's voltage with a meter. Also check the voltage at the turn signals. Maybe the PO wired them to the wrong place.
I have seen replacement led bulbs that are supposed to fit in the stock tail light and turn signals. Has anyone tried these, also i have seen a replacement signal module. Do you still have to use a diode with these?
The indicator on the instrument panel connects to the left and right turn signals. It lights up when either turn signal is on. It does this because a lamp allows current to pass in both directions.
When you go LED, they allow current to pass in one direction, which for the most part is OK. However, they pass very little current and as a result, the incandescent indicator may not go on. LED turn signal bulbs use less current and the incandescent indicator requires more current to light up than goes through the LEDs. You can replace the indicator with an LED, but that presents problems.
It needs to be a bi-polar LED because current passes both directions through the indicator due to the goofy way it is wired in. On an "E, that is no problem. There are bi-polar LEDs that fit the T-10 socket. On an "F", the bulb is a T-5. Smaller!. You can shave a T-10 bi-polar (aka non-polarized) LED to fit if you are skilled at it. OR you use a standard T-5 LED and 2 diodes to make it light up correctly. (See other threads with the diode diagram and more information).
Now, LED replacement bulbs work just fine. You can replace the turn signals withg LED replacements. keep in mind the requirements for the instrument panel turn signal indicator light.
Superbright as one especially for motorcycle stop/tail lights and is the only one with white LEDs to light up the license plate (a DOT requirement in the USA). I bought them and put them in a friends bike. Excellent product! If you use others, you must add a "tail tidy light" as referred to in Europe or something to light up the license plate. Also, some others are not as bright. By the way, replacing the stop light is just a replacement (you need to buy 2 of them). Nothing else needs to be done, as you need to do when playing with the turn signals.
I hope this helps.
If you give more specific questions, I can give you the answers. I'm pretty much an expert on electricity. Others are experts on the mechanical parts of the bikes.
Ok I think I understand you, if i replace the tail/stop light with the led bulbs, i will have no prolems but if I do the turn signals to led bulbs I have to change the turn signal indicator light on the gauge cluster to a led light also to make them work correcty.
That sounds correct. No need to change anything for the brake light.
The indicator for turn signals is in the circuit between the left and right side. The current of that lamp may cause both sides to come on or not work at all or my work OK. Some people add load resistors when going LED turn signals to simulate the same load and keep the flasher relay happy. Others replace the flasher relay and may or my not do things to the indicator light.
Those who have changed all turn signals can offer suggestions of what they have done. I have LED stop lights but left the turn signals stock with smoke lenses. All my indicators and gauge lights are LED.
I looked on ebay and found two t10 leds, so I can change them out with the incandescent bulb, and change the flasher module then it should work if I also put on led turn signals? Or do i have to put the diode in with the t10 led? And resistor on the wire to leds?
There have been other threads on LEDs and what to get and where to get them if changing only the indicator lamps on your gauge cluster, and the gauge lamps.
Specifically, what are you wanting to change? (A)The big bulbs in your turn signals, (B) the turn signal indicator lamp on the instrument cluster, or (A+B) both?
You can't put in a regular LED as the indicator. It must be non-polarized or you need 2 diodes. You can't get a non-polarized T-5 (for "F" models). The "E" models have T-10 size instrument cluster indicators and non-polarized green or amber are available. The other 3 indicators can be standard polarized T-10 size LEDs (green, red and blue).
I bought a multimeter.
Quote from: adidasguy on December 03, 2011, 12:01:49 PM
...check the bike's voltage with a meter. Also check the voltage at the turn signals. Maybe the PO wired them to the wrong place.
If you mean an output test under load, my meter reads 14.13V at 5000 rpm of a fully warm motor, read in parallel from the battery terminals.
Tell me if I'm wrong, but when I'm testing the left front turn signal for voltage, I turn the ignition ON and I flick the switch left as if I was making a turn. I've removed the dead bulb from the left signal and I set my auto-ranging multimeter to DC volts, press the positive lead to the nub at the base of the bucket the bulb sits in, and the negative (ground) lead to the metal housing of the signal. Because the power is pulsing, to flash the bulb, I set my meter to display the maximum reading only, from which I read 7.77V. Then I turned the engine on and reved it to 5000rpm, when I got a reading of 10.26V.
Three bulbs have blown from this socket so far, two 12V8w and one 13.5V8w
Quote from: adidasguy on December 01, 2011, 10:43:10 PM
The turn signals go to ground and the turn signal switch. They should not be connected to the flasher as far I have been able to determine, unless that turn signal relay has +12, flash, and ground.
You are correct, I misspoke not knowing how important those details were there. I was trying to say that I did not see any special load resistors or any other unidentified doohickeys. I have a Suzuki manual and a Haynes manual, and all the diagrams. The rear signals both go to the switch at the handlebars through the main spinal cord looking thing that goes from the back to the front over the airbox and along the side of the frame.
SO, there you have my voltage readings. As I'm learning about all this (and I must remind you I am learning from the ground up), I'm not convinced theres a problem with the flasher unit I have now. It may even be the original (based on conversations with the PO) for a 2009 US model. It says on its side that its a electronic flasher unit. It doesn't make the clicking sound. When the conventional front turn signal bulbs are intact, everything works and flashes at a quick, acceptable rate. The LEDS in the back are obviously cheap shaZam! that aren't very bright, but they work. The problem at hand is losing bulbs.
If I've done the tests correctly I think I've reached the limit of what the manuals can tell me. They seem to be more focused on breakages due to dirt chafing and corrosion. My charging system has passed all three tests. What else can it be?
The voltage at the lamps is probably right. There is some loss due to the connection through the turn signal relay. I do remember that when I put on +my side marker/turn LEDs. (Their circuit was rather simplistic and relied on the same voltage for the turn signal as the running lights to properly turn of running light when turn signal went on with only 10.5v. Result was I had to use the turn signal line to run a DIP reed relay and feed +12v to the LED module, well, that's a different project but look at pix of Suzi).
There really is no way a 12v or 13.5v lamp would blow on a 12-14v circuit. Unless the lamps were not rugged and couldn't take the vibration. Something like a 12v desk lamp bulb might not be as rugged as one made for automotive use.
The only other thing I can think of right now is a bad voltage regulator. If it lets spikes of up to 18v or more, then lamps could blow. if that were the case, I think you'd see headlamp and other lights go out.
With and without turn signals on and bike running, do you see any change in brightness of the headlamp or any of the indicator lamps? (i.e. neutral, high beam)
Auto-range meters are nice. One drawback is they can't adjust fast enough for short spikes. That's where a scope or a mechanical meter work. You can see fast vibration of a meter needle, where the digital meters which only sample a few times a second, can't see them (or give what appears to be random readings). I only mention thus because there could be a voltage regulator problem that a digital meter can't see.
Bad regulator blew 2 headlights on Junior in one day until I got home and measured 18v or more and replaced the regulator. Ages ago I had a Yamaha250 and was poor, cheap and didn't know what to do so put a 5v regulator on the headlight that kept blowing (6v bike kick start like a 1980 model and had computer 5v regulators sitting around.) Though I have never blown the turn signal lights. Since they go through the flasher that drops the voltage, it seems pretty hard for them to get burnt out due to high voltage.
Do your lamps blow if sitting or when riding over rough streets?
Now that you mention it, the headlight is one of those POS 'Xanadu' jobs with generic fork mounts. Ive read a lot of forums bashing them since. They vibrate like a mofo, get really loud. I'm in the process of trying to dampen them now.
The generic fork mounts clamp directly onto the forks with no rubber at all, same with the headlight bolting on the mounts. There's no rubber anywhere on the thing.
Also, my meter does have a MAX/MIN function for just what you're describing. After you press it, it will hold both values on display and updates in real time. At three samples per second, I give it about 10 to show me a spike like you're describing.
To combat vibration I'm going wild with a can of 3M rubberized undercoat. If it ruins the finish, f%$k it anyway, it was born worthless.
Do you think theres a distinction between automobile lamps and motorcycle lamps? For increased vibration?
I'd try testing the voltage at the front blinker with the bulb in the socket, so the normal load is there. You'll have to find another way of connecting to the positive terminal, maybe bare a bit of the wire and tape it later or go in to a connector. I don't know of any difference between bike and car bulbs, it certainly seems strange to be blowing them at less than 15 volts.
Quote from: Steel on December 06, 2011, 02:33:25 AM
Also, my meter does have a MAX/MIN function for just what you're describing. After you press it, it will hold both values on display and updates in real time. At three samples per second, I give it about 10 to show me a spike like you're describing.
3 samples per second can miss spikes.
Imagine - checking a voltage 3 times a second. A 1/4 second surge could easily be missed.
Undercoating won't do anything. Waste of time and money.
Auto/bike bulbs probably exactly the same. Inside lamps for desk lamps - probably not as rugged.
Something is going on that's frying those bulbs. You said the flasher unit is not OEM? I winder if there is something in that which could be spiking the voltage.
I'd try 2 things: 1) put in a stock flasher and then 2)swap the voltage regulator.
If you know someone with a GS500 or compatible parts, you could try swapping for a day or two and see what happens.
How can it be the regulator/rectifier if no other bulbs suffer? There's only two active members of this site near me, and I haven't met them yet. Maybe I could take these parts to the dealers and make them bench test them, entice them with "maybe I'll buy a new part".
The flasher is OEM, the serial number on it matches the suzuki part number, even if the image on the fiche doesnt match.
Why not get a flasher from Auto Zone for $5 :dunno_black: I hated my LED set up took forever to get set up right was blowing indicator bulbs all the time and went through 3 flashers. I did the GSXR integrated mirrors with small incandescents in the back. It was a PITA for me.
BTW the dealership will charge you $20 to do a 5 min check. So, save $15 an buy one from Auto Zone
Mary
A jerky dealership maybe. The collective "experts" here have led me to believe that there's no way a flasher can cause voltage spikes or otherwise blow bulbs. Only voltage spikes and physical stress can.
It's still a little hard to swallow that there are 'one size fits all' flashers I can buy from auto zone that are supposed to be appropriate. I have a flasher, it flashes.
I think it was vibration. I bought two six inch squares of cut-your-own gasket rubber from home depot and went to town, buffering at the forks braces and where the turn signals plug into the fork brace. Turn signals have lasted three days now. The glass is still spinning around in its seat, what a piece of shaZam!.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/gs250-gs300-gs500-gs550-t500-gs-suzuki-headlight-kit-/360410000345?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item53ea1c2bd9#ht_600wt_1165
BEWARE, don't buy this, ever.
We thought you were having trouble with OEM turn signals.
:flipoff: So, you never told us you put on some crappy after market piece of shaZam! :bs:
Being somewhat of an LED aficionado, I must caution you about those "LED replacement bulbs" as they are total garbage. Might as well not even have a blinker at that point.
As far as LEDs are concerned, it's pretty basic design. LED stands for "Light Emitting Diode" and one of the properties of diodes, among other things, is that they only allow voltage to pass one way through them. If you connect them incorrectly nothing will happen. It won't come on and it will not blow it (that is unless you apply 12v to a 2v LED). Now as far as the resistor is concerned, that is a simple way of restricting the current to the LED bulb(s). Now, the tricky part is figuring out what resistor to use on what kind of lamp.
Unless you are a math genius and understand all of the complexity of the way LEDs work, I think you may find this tool useful:
http://ledcalculator.net/
FYI, radio shack sells some fairly bright four-pin LEDs that you might be able to rig up in there. They're 3.2v if I recall correctly. They're also square/flat instead of the traditional bulb shape.
As far as the bulbs blowing up is concerned...that can be one and only one thing: either the voltage to them is TOO high, OR, the bulbs themselves are not the correct voltage. Look on the base of the bulb, it should tell you what voltage it is. You need to check the voltage going to the turn signal sockets. You should also check the voltage at the battery. If they are different, well, you've found your problem.
Given the fact that relays have no inherent voltage stepping properties, the relay would make little difference in the voltage being supplied to the turn signal sockets. Also, the amperage is a bit irrelevant, seeing as how you could take that same bulb and connect it directly to a car battery (which is in excess of 700amps) and it would work just as well as it would in the socket on any bike. The reason is because of how DC works. A device only draws as much amperage as it needs. If it was drawing too much amperage it would smoke the wiring before it would blow the bulb.
Hope this helps!
Quote from: Steel on December 10, 2011, 02:38:12 PM
I think it was vibration. I bought two six inch squares of cut-your-own gasket rubber from home depot and went to town, buffering at the forks braces and where the turn signals plug into the fork brace. Turn signals have lasted three days now. The glass is still spinning around in its seat, what a piece of shaZam!.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/gs250-gs300-gs500-gs550-t500-gs-suzuki-headlight-kit-/360410000345?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item53ea1c2bd9#ht_600wt_1165
BEWARE, don't buy this, ever.
Crap, I could have told you that. The "Xanadu" on the lens is a dead give away. I have a 6.75" headlight from them that does the exact same thing.
Quote from: Kijona on December 10, 2011, 06:10:56 PM
Being somewhat of an LED aficionado, I must caution you about those "LED replacement bulbs" as they are total garbage. Might as well not even have a blinker at that point.
I don't know where you come up with this. I beat you hands down when it comes to LEDs. All my indicators are LED. Tail light is LED. LED replacement bulbs are as bright, sometimes brighter than incandescent. Trucks, cars and everywhere else is going with LED replacements. My whole house and office are LED. My bike cave is loaded with LED replacement 4' tubes. No fluorescent or incandescent lights anywhere. 12v desk lamps and cabinet lights are also equipped with LED replacements. I've bought at least 15 different types of T10 LEDs for testing to find the optimum replacements in both brightness and color temperature.
I've spend the past few years buying and researching LED replacements for just about everything because I hate fluorescent bulbs and especially those garbage compact fluorescent bulbs.
Going LED replacement is the way to go. Just don't buy the cheap crappy 99 cent ones. Spend $5-$10 for good ones and you'll be glad you did.
No need to go to Radio Crap for LEDs and rig something up. That's a hard way to do it. Buy real LED replacement bulbs. They have the proper built in circuitry for voltage, current and reverse connection to protect them.
The voltage to the turn signals is not the voltage of your bike. I know - I have measured it. The stock flasher relay has a bi-metalic resistive strip - like many thermostats. Current goes through it and heats the strip due to resistance. That causes the strip to bend. When it bends enough, it opens the circuit. Then it starts to cool down and straighten out. Which it then makes the circuit and starts to heat up again and current goes through it. The process repeats. That's how the flasher relay works. It is not just a relay contact. The ones commonly used in cars are also made to be noisy (at least older ones) which is why you hear a tink-tink-tink as the contact flips open and closed. (Newer ones can be electronic and use a speaker or piezo device to make the sound so you know the turn signals is on.)
Electronic flashers, unless they have a real relay driven by a timing circuit (which they don't), will drop the voltage by at least 0.7v. That is the voltage drop across a transistor or diode. Even a fuse has a voltage drop - because it has to heat up due to resistance to make it melt when too much current passes through it.
Remember: the flasher relay is called a relay but is not a relay contact with a 12v coil. It is a different beast all together.
LED replacement bulbs are not garbage unless you buy garbage ones.
As for voltage and vibration taking out your bulbs - I already covered that a few posts ago. Read past posts and save the time of repeating what was already written. if you want those turn signals to cease going out, put in LED replacements. Problem solved forever and you can get brighter LED replacements that stock bulbs. You will have to go with an electronic flasher because LEDs do not draw enough current to make a stock flasher work correctly.
Quote from: adidasguy on December 10, 2011, 08:00:00 PM
Quote from: Kijona on December 10, 2011, 06:10:56 PM
Being somewhat of an LED aficionado, I must caution you about those "LED replacement bulbs" as they are total garbage. Might as well not even have a blinker at that point.
I don't know where you come up with this. I beat you hands down when it comes to LEDs. All my indicators are LED. Tail light is LED. LED replacement bulbs are as bright, sometimes brighter than incandescent. Trucks, cars and everywhere else is going with LED replacements. My whole house and office are LED. 12v desk lamps and cabinet lights are also equipped with LED replacements. I've bought at least 15 different types of T10 LEDs for testing to find the optimum replacements in both brightness and color temperature.
Going LED replacement is the way to go. Just don't buy the cheap crappy 99 cent ones. Spend $5-$10 for good ones and you'll be glad you did.
No need to go to Radio Crap for LEDs and rig something up. That's a had way to do it. Buy real LED replacement bulbs. They have the proper built in circuitry for voltage, current and reverse connection to protect them.
The voltage to the turn signals is not the voltage of your bike. I know - I have measured it. The stock flasher relay has a bi-meta;lic resistive strip - like many thermostats. Current goes through it and heats the strip due to resistance. That causes the strip to bend. When it bends enough, it opens the circuit. Then it starts to cool down and straighten out. Which it then makes the circuit and starts to heat up again and current goes through it. The process repeats. That's how the flasher relay works. It is not just a relay contact. The ones commonly used in cars are also made to be noisy (at least older ones) which is why you hear a tink-tink-tink as the contact flips open and closed. (Newer ones can be electronic and use a speaker or piezo device to make the sound so you know the turn signals is on.)
Electronic flashers, unless they have a real relay, will drop the voltage by at least 0.7v. That is the voltage drop across a transistor or diode. Even a fuse has a voltage drop - because it has to heat up due to resistance to make it melt when too much current passes through it.
LED replacement bulbs are not garbage unless you buy garbage ones.
I think you got your feathers ruffled over nothing. You're reading way too far into what I stated. When he asked about the LED replacement bulbs I assumed he meant the ones from your local auto shop that are total garbage. I wasn't bashing them
all. I wasn't saying NOT to replace the signals with LED ones, I was saying not to use the ones that are crappy.
As far a relay modifying voltage, .7 volts is enough to be called "the same" for general purposes. Also, when I said that, I was saying they don't INCREASE the voltage so you should be getting roughly the same voltage into the turn signals. There was a discussion, it seemed, about there being a possibility that it was the relay causing them to blow, which is hardly possible.
Next time, please try to keep a level head without jumping down someone's throat with a big spiel about what you do or what you have. Thank you.
Edit:
Also, as far as radio shack is concerned, that's a store that most people are familiar with and can go to. Not many places, actual stores that is, have high-output LEDs readily available.
This thread reminds me of a woman who called tech support because her computer screen went dark. To shorten the story, after 10 minutes or so of trying things the tech asked her to look at the back of the computer to be sure things were plugged in. She said "Wait while I open the shades. We have a power outage and its dark in here".
Had the OP stated it was an after market unit with zero rubber dampening we would have known it was vibration killing the lamps. Stock headlamps have rubber rings on the fork mounts. Turn signals are on rubber stalks.
With no rubber dampening, all the high frequency vibrations would shake the filaments to death.
As for the statement about LED replacements being garbage - that sat the wrong way with me. I gave my background to let you know why I feel LEDs are great (experience!). If you had clarified your statement, I probably would say that auto store ones are not necessarily bad. AFter all, they sell for vehicles so they have an obligation to sell what would be DOT legal. Department stores and lamp stores can sell anything because you'd probably use those for desk lamps or kitchen lighting.
As for the flasher relay - it is not a plain relay contact. I do not like to see misinformation posted. In fact, a stock slasher due to the bi-metalic contact has almost a 2 volt drop. I measured it when I was installing my side lights and the marker lights did not go off when the turn signal LEDs were on. The company used a transistor and the voltage difference between the bike +12v and turn signal voltage was too different for the transistor to turn off the marker lights when the turn signal LEDs were on. I had to install a DIP relay in them to make them work right.
So I guess what it all comes down to is a thread that went on far too long because what the OP was using was never mentioned - ergo - we all assumed it was a problem with stock turn signals so we threw out every possible solution we could think of.
reading what the real turn signals were (after market POS in my and others opinions) and reading your misinformation and blanket statement about LEDs ruffled MY feathers. Did not intend to ruffle yours - just correct the information you posted.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Replacement-Inverter-CCFL-Angel-Eyes-Halo-Rings-/120751686082
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CCFL-LAMP-WHITE-RING-X-1-SET-HALO-ANGEL-EYE-PROJECTOR-5000K-BUMPER-FOG-LIGHT-12V-/140633608176
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Black-Headlight-Street-Fighter-Conversion-Kawasaki-Ninja-ZX6R-ZX-ZXR-Z-/270867989976
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-LED-Tail-Turn-Plate-ALL-IN-ONE-Light-1-/310341350407
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HID-Bi-Xenon-Bulbs-H4-Lo-HID-Hi-Halogen-35W-8000K-/270767416827
This Is the set up that I was going to use. Universal headlight replaced with the HID-Xenon bulb with halogen high HID low beam. The headlights has the turns in it with the T10 turn signals was going to replace them with LED so I would have LED front and rear. Is this as easy as putting bulbs in universal headlight, changing flasher, and indicator light as far as LEDs go. For the HID light as you can see in link it says that you don't need a relay. I have gotten some things from them before and it was pretty good, that being said is this stuff just a piece of sh!t.
www.SuperbrightLED.com has a T10 LED with 5, 9 or 13 LEDs. Depends on how much space you have, but I think the 9 LED units would fit and be more than bright enough. I use them as the running light on my 2009 headlight. They are the WLED Miniature Wedge Base bulbs with High Power SMD LEDs - 360 type. Get them in amber.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fmini-wedge.html
For the indicators you need a non-polarized LED for the turn signal. Polarized are OK for neutral, high beam and oil. If you have an older GS, then they fit just fine. Newer GS's use T-5 LEDs in the indicators (all use T-10 for the gauges). There is no non-polarized T-5 so the choice is shave a T-10 to fit or use 2 diodes to operate the T-5 indicator. Do you have an 89-00 GS or 2001+ GS?
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Assorted/diodes.png)
When getting LEDs for the indicators, order the same color as the plastic cap. It will produce a purer color than if you order white.
See some past threads to see the different colors of LEDs. I personally do not like blue or red gauges. My prefernce is warm white. Cool white is a little blueish if you like blue. Using red or blue may not be bright enough for you and being a pure color, they are at opposite ends of the color spectrum where you may have difficulty easily focusing on them.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/GS500/instrument_LED.jpg)
Cool white gauges
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/GS500/DSC01179a.jpg)
Warm white gauges
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/GS500/DSC01221a.jpg)
I have an 89. Those are bright as sh!t. What did you think about the HID light universal headlight idea, is this going to work. So to be perfectly clear I do have to put a diode in with the indicator light when changing to Led turns?
Can i put the red ones in the speedo/ tac? Did you have to us diodes or anything or is it just plug them in. I just want to make doubly sure before I do electrical stuff.
No. You do not need the diodes. Simply get a non-polarized LED (amber or green depending on what color your cap is). The T10-s fit the indicator sockets of a 1989 just fine.
Choices for non-polarized include:
WLED-xLX
WLED-x
WLED-x6
You can use non-polarized for all indicators.
The WLED-xHP5 work find in the gauges. That is in the photo of the gauge which is broken open. Due to the metal guard in the gauges, you can't have a long LED and the one shown there is what I use and used in all the sample photos.
The indicators are not as bright as they seem in the photos. They are brighter than incandescent bulbs and look really nice during the day.
I think there are some other non-polarized but would have to check my parts box. I have some of each type for testing. Its late and cold in the bike cave right now.
I have no opinion on HID headlights. For me, stock is fine. I have added Denali fog lights for added light and visibility. You see them mounted to the forks.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/GS500/DSC01224a.jpg)
Adidas, you must ride through a car wash in those once a week. Kudos too you for keeping such clean machines!
2 quick questions:
1) Where do you get your diodes? Radio Shack?
2) Are those Denali lights mounted to the fork lowers?
Diodes: yep. Any diode will work as most all are rated at least 50v and current is small. Common 10 cent one is 1n4001 (last digit can be higher as 1n4002, etc.). Alternates are using one half of a full ave bridge. I think the GS500 dual diode would work, too, if you have an extra one in your parts box. Diodes only needed if using a polarized LED in the indicator.You can use them anyway. It won't make things not-work, even with incandescent indicators.
Denali's are mounted to the reflector mount on the forks. Case you guessed it, Junior (1992 Canadian) has 2009 forks. He had a fork leak and I had a nearly new set of 2009's so put in new springs and put them on. That was easy. You can mount them other places on older forks or use metal bands. Since the Denali's used the reflector spot, I added the Harley reflectors to the forks. (About $15 on ebay) I think they look cool and better than the stock 1989-2000 reflectors (and have a box full of the GS stock reflectors, too! Front and rear). There are some ready-made Denali mounting brackets available. Bought from twisted Throttle. Bandit had some metal bands for mountinmg reflectors. Those would work. Or use a metal band to hold the Denali bracket to your older style fork. Be creative!
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/GS500/denali.jpg)
Use thread lock so they don't move. Takes a day or two for thread lock to set up. Adjust them sitting on the bike as that effects the aim. Directions help in positioning them. They are fantastic on poorly lit roads. On other roads, cagers have 3 points of light on your bike to see and can better judge your speed and distance.
Run them off of the headlight power. On "F"'s, it cuts out when starting (these use 1.5 amps). On older bikes, add in a headlight cut out relay when starting the bike. I can show how to do it if anyone interested, Only takes one relay and a couple connectors.
Car Wash: I use the Seattle Car Wash System (called riding in the rain!) (http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/laugh.gif)