Okay guys! I just got myself an '07 GS500F with 17k miles. I have a few general questions regarding the bike!
Firstly...PO was putting Rotella-T synthetic in it. What weight in the Rotella-T is acceptable for this bike? Also...without poking the sleeping giant...is it okay to switch back and forth between synthetic and dino oil? I'd rather change my oil more often and spend less money.
Is the oil filter contained inside the cover directly below the dipstick?
Is the recommendation that the oil be checked with it on the sidestand or center stand?
It needs a new chain and fast! Can someone recommend a decent chain? I only know of D.I.D but those are a bit pricey.
Thanks!
15w-40 weight, conventional oil is fine for the bike (the engine design is from 1989).
No, the oil filter is located at the bottom front of the engine between the exhaust header pipes. It has three 10mm nuts holding it on, be careful not to over tighten them because the studs will snap off in the engine.
Do not check oil on the side stand. There is a debate on this forum whether to check it while holding the bike straight up and down or while it is on the center stand. Do a forum search and pick whichever method floats your boat (I don't think it makes a huge difference)
I have no preference on chain brands, I'll leave that question someone else. I just use whatever O-ring chain I find that is affordable.
Welcome to the GS club :thumb:
-Jessie
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on December 11, 2011, 08:53:18 PM
15w-40 weight, conventional oil is fine for the bike (the engine design is from 1989).
No, the oil filter is located at the bottom front of the engine between the exhaust header pipes. It has three 10mm nuts holding it on, be careful not to over tighten them because the studs will snap off in the engine.
Do not check oil on the side stand. There is a debate on this forum whether to check it while holding the bike straight up and down or while it is on the center stand. Do a forum search and pick whichever method floats your boat (I don't think it makes a huge difference)
I have no preference on chain brands, I'll leave that question someone else. I just use whatever O-ring chain I find that is affordable.
Welcome to the GS club :thumb:
-Jessie
Oh damn. I'll be careful with that then. So what weight Rotella-T should I be putting in it or should I not? I mean...I know tons of people swear by it. Guess it's like the debate about the oil checking.
I screwed up. I posted about the rotella oil on the gs500 with issues instead of here. in short don't do it, its diesel engine oil.
Quote from: Kijona on December 11, 2011, 08:56:47 PM
So what weight Rotella-T should I be putting in it or should I not? I mean...I know tons of people swear by it.
15w-40 weight. It's fine for all seasons. Change your oil and oil filter every 3000 miles, just like a car. If you rev your engine like crazy every time you ride, use fully synthetic. If you just putter around, use regular. You DO need to use motorcycle oil...here's why:
http://youtu.be/A2cx16Pq6iM?t=2m17s
Shell Rotella is made for diesel engines it say so right on the bottle not motorcycles, very different application. If you must use shell oil I am sure they make motorcycle oil. One of the big differences is the engine and transmission sharing the oil as well as the wet clutch.
Moto Guzzi and BMW are special cases with dry clutches and separate oil for the engine and transmission. I still don't see why you would use diesel engine oil. Personally I avoid Shell for a variety of reasons. Either way no matter what brand you choose you need to use the proper kind of lubricant.
It's safe to mix synthetic and conventional oils, and safe to switch back and forth. Only rule is that you need to treat the resulting mixture as if it was made of the weakest oil you added... E.g. your $50 synthetic fill needs to be treated as if it was a $3/quart fill as soon as you add the cheap stuff.
When you mix oil weights, you need to average out the resulting mixture.
Check the oil level with the bike level. Never check on the side stand. Checking on the center stand is fine, IMO. You can also check while straddling the bike between your legs and both wheels on the ground.
I know lots of people who run Rotella T in their bikes. It's a good oil for the price, but by no means the best stuff on the market. Plenty of other good oil available. Checking your oil often and changing it regularly is more important than anything else.
The GS500 burns oil. You should check your oil level every time you fill up your bike. Lots of people run the bike low, and by the time they realize the mistake the bike is on it's way to a total engine failure. If the bottom end starts ringing, it's too late.
What do you mean by ringing?
Sound of loose metal rapidly bouncing around the engine.
Oh good. I'm glad. Mine doesn't have that. Mine was about 12oz low on oil when I got it.
All I can add is this:
"It has three 10mm nuts holding it on, be careful not to over tighten them because the studs will snap off in the engine."
There have been too many threads on here about fixing this problem. They are small studs and need very little torque (check the manual). The seal is made by the big O-ring around the housing, so you don't need much pressure on the sealing surface.
By the way, go easy on the filter cover nuts. :)
Rotella-T conventional oil does carry the JASO-MA approval for motocycle engines. I'm using it. Many others are, too, and not just us idiots on gstwins.
Quote from: Kijona on December 11, 2011, 08:36:02 PM
Okay guys! I just got myself an '07 GS500F with 17k miles. I have a few general questions regarding the bike!
Firstly...PO was putting Rotella-T synthetic in it. What weight in the Rotella-T is acceptable for this bike? Also...without poking the sleeping giant...is it okay to switch back and forth between synthetic and dino oil? I'd rather change my oil more often and spend less money.
Is the oil filter contained inside the cover directly below the dipstick?
Is the recommendation that the oil be checked with it on the sidestand or center stand?
It needs a new chain and fast! Can someone recommend a decent chain? I only know of D.I.D but those are a bit pricey.
Thanks!
IMHO the best chain is Regina......My bike came with Regina as OEM....have 20,000 miles and the chain has barely "stretched" at all.....only had to adjust drop outs like one turn at most.....
I clean with kerosene, and lube with Honda chain lube...religiously every 500 miles...
New regina chain for GS 500 is about $100 so not cheap...
Cookie
PS
Back in the day....bicycle racing...Regina was THE chain.......
Quote from: agave248 on December 11, 2011, 10:56:58 PM
Shell Rotella is made for diesel engines it say so right on the bottle not motorcycles, very different application. If you must use shell oil I am sure they make motorcycle oil. One of the big differences is the engine and transmission sharing the oil as well as the wet clutch.
Moto Guzzi and BMW are special cases with dry clutches and separate oil for the engine and transmission. I still don't see why you would use diesel engine oil. Personally I avoid Shell for a variety of reasons. Either way no matter what brand you choose you need to use the proper kind of lubricant.
Lots of deisel farm equipment has wet cluthes; Rotella, Delo etc. work fine. I use cheapo Walmart Supertech in almost everything I own with no problems. Some people will tell you any oil that doesn't say "Energy Conserving" on the rating seal is ok, I don't know enough to make that claim though.
-Jessie
I have a new question: Is it normal for the engine to spool all the way to 5k when the choke is engaged fully in 40°F. weather? This is with the bike being stone cold.
Also, I'm just gonna put some Castrol 10w-40 in it...the motorcycle oil. It's $15 for a 4L jug and I've been using it in all my other stuff.
Quote from: Kijona on December 12, 2011, 02:54:49 PM
I have a new question: Is it normal for the engine to spool all the way to 5k when the choke is engaged fully in 40°F. weather? This is with the bike being stone cold.
Also, I'm just gonna put some Castrol 10w-40 in it...the motorcycle oil. It's $15 for a 4L jug and I've been using it in all my other stuff.
Idk about right away going to 5k RPM I know when my bike WAS working correctly, when It was warmed up all the way it would hang around 5k rpm at the highest, started around 3.5k all the way up to 5k RPM.
Oh my God you brought up the dreaded checking the oil question. That's like shaking the hornets nest. :-X
Quote from: ghostrider_23 on December 12, 2011, 03:00:59 PM
Oh my God you brought up the dreaded checking the oil question. That's like shaking the hornets nest. :-X
Hey, I didn't know. I'm gonna check it on the center stand and to hell with what anybody else says. :P
Quote from: J_Walker on December 12, 2011, 02:58:04 PM
Quote from: Kijona on December 12, 2011, 02:54:49 PM
I have a new question: Is it normal for the engine to spool all the way to 5k when the choke is engaged fully in 40°F. weather? This is with the bike being stone cold.
Also, I'm just gonna put some Castrol 10w-40 in it...the motorcycle oil. It's $15 for a 4L jug and I've been using it in all my other stuff.
Idk about right away going to 5k RPM I know when my bike WAS working correctly, when It was warmed up all the way it would hang around 5k rpm at the highest, started around 3.5k all the way up to 5k RPM.
I mean it's like...I just barely have to touch the starter button and it IMMEDIATELY fires up and will reach 4-5.5k RPM within a few seconds and hang there. If I try to give it...say...half choke it really gets irritated and will fluctuate a lot from idle speed up to 3-4k and then back down and almost stall out.
I'll make a video tomorrow so you guys can see what I'm talking about.
You'll need to investigate a few things...
Point 1 - chain being neglected is a sign other maintenance was also neglected so...
Change the oil and filter
Take a good hard look at the tires - when were they made, what condition are they in
Look real close at the front and rear sprocket. if they chain is so bad chances are both sprockets will also need to be replaced.
When you get your new chain, be sure to keep up the chain lube. I use Belray Super Clean. Others use Motul lubes. I have tried lanolin on the GS and while it does well it is sticky and crud gets all over the chain. Also tried WD40 exclusively for my first chain. Did me for over 20,000km but I've now got my miles on my second chain using Belray and it is still sweet :thumb: :thumb:
Now about your high start idle with choke... put it on full choke and start the bike. Let it rev to its 5k. But, give the choke some small taps in the reducing direction. The choke can be quite sensitive. This is so you can find your sweet spot.
Michael
Quote from: mister on December 13, 2011, 03:53:08 AM
You'll need to investigate a few things...
Point 1 - chain being neglected is a sign other maintenance was also neglected so...
Change the oil and filter
Take a good hard look at the tires - when were they made, what condition are they in
Look real close at the front and rear sprocket. if they chain is so bad chances are both sprockets will also need to be replaced.
When you get your new chain, be sure to keep up the chain lube. I use Belray Super Clean. Others use Motul lubes. I have tried lanolin on the GS and while it does well it is sticky and crud gets all over the chain. Also tried WD40 exclusively for my first chain. Did me for over 20,000km but I've now got my miles on my second chain using Belray and it is still sweet :thumb: :thumb:
Now about your high start idle with choke... put it on full choke and start the bike. Let it rev to its 5k. But, give the choke some small taps in the reducing direction. The choke can be quite sensitive. This is so you can find your sweet spot.
Michael
Yeah, I changed the oil in her. It was a good bit low but whatever. No racket or running problems so I'm sure it's fine. No metal bits in the filter or anything so that's another good thing..
Yeah, the front sprocket has curved teeth so...that thing is done. I'm gonna replace front and rear and get a nice DID chain maybe. Dunno yet. I just know I won't be putting a piece of junk on there.
I've got another few quick questions to ask...one...is it an issue that I hear a very faint "ticking" sound after it warms up and I've ridden it for a while and it's idling in neutral? It sounds like maybe it's coming from the motor but it COULD be in the transmission. It's intermittent.
Another is I noticed that if you try to blip the throttle (after being warmed up), it'll fart a little bit. Almost sounds like a backfire but isn't pronounced.
One more thing...I noticed that when it's cold, if I don't give it a LOT of time warming up with the choke on, it'll knock if I turn the choke off. It's like a "CLUNK" and the engine almost dies. Of course I don't let it do this continuously but I'm just wondering if that's an indication of a more severe problem.
Here's a video of me starting the bike. Because it wasn't 40° and more like 60° it didn't do the high-rev thing. Still should be able to get a good clip of how the motor sounds. This was after it sat ALL night without being started.
Let me know what you guys think. Tell me if you notice anything out of place.
Oh...I meant to mention...the chain issue is from being a piece of crap chain they got off ebay..he actually did lube it pretty frequently, and, in fact, used way too much because the back sprocket is covered in green slime. Nasty.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlwH9AgY0ww&feature=youtu.be
Looks and sounds pretty normal to me, bearing in mind I'm listening on a laptop.
Quote from: BrianKD on December 11, 2011, 10:40:54 PM
Quote from: Kijona on December 11, 2011, 08:56:47 PM
So what weight Rotella-T should I be putting in it or should I not? I mean...I know tons of people swear by it.
15w-40 weight. It's fine for all seasons. Change your oil and oil filter every 3000 miles, just like a car. If you rev your engine like crazy every time you ride, use fully synthetic. If you just putter around, use regular. You DO need to use motorcycle oil...here's why:
http://youtu.be/A2cx16Pq6iM?t=2m17s
I use Motul and I swear by it. It hasn't failed me thus far and I'd much rather spend more money on high quality fully synthetic oil than save money and take a risk with car oil.
@OP
You'll find there are quite a few "use the cheapest filter/oil available" people here. It's all broscience. However, the evidence for using motorcycle oil vs car oil is not only obvious it's critical. Use a motorcycle oil.
Quote from: Dr.McNinja on December 14, 2011, 08:55:31 PM
Quote from: BrianKD on December 11, 2011, 10:40:54 PM
Quote from: Kijona on December 11, 2011, 08:56:47 PM
So what weight Rotella-T should I be putting in it or should I not? I mean...I know tons of people swear by it.
15w-40 weight. It's fine for all seasons. Change your oil and oil filter every 3000 miles, just like a car. If you rev your engine like crazy every time you ride, use fully synthetic. If you just putter around, use regular. You DO need to use motorcycle oil...here's why:
http://youtu.be/A2cx16Pq6iM?t=2m17s
I use Motul and I swear by it. It hasn't failed me thus far and I'd much rather spend more money on high quality fully synthetic oil than save money and take a risk with car oil.
@OP
You'll find there are quite a few "use the cheapest filter/oil available" people here. It's all broscience. However, the evidence for using motorcycle oil vs car oil is not only obvious it's critical. Use a motorcycle oil.
Sorry to beat a dead horse by discussing oil but I hate to see misinformation passed on to noobs. That video says you don't want to use "car oil" which is true. Modern automotive oil weights (10w30, 5w30, 5w20, 0w20, etc.) have friction modifiers which are designated on the API seal as "energy conserving" that will wreak havoc on a wet clutch. Conventional diesel oils like Rotella (and most automotive 10w40 and 20w50) do not have these friction modifiers. Lots of agricultural equipment has wet clutches just like a motorcycle which has the same "shear force" that the guy talks about in the video. I was talking to the Drydene (Castrol) sales rep we buy our bulk oil at work from and he said the only difference between the motorcycle oil and the regular oil "is the bottle we put it in." So in short, use whatever oil makes you feel warm and fuzzy inside; just know that buying less expensive oil doesn't mean you'll be doing your bike a disservice :thumb:
-Jessie
(http://www.aa1car.com/library/API_donut.gif)
Just some FYI regardling Motul oil.... they make car oil and motorcycle oil. The motorcycle oil is the Factoryline blend. Their others have friction modifiers in it. I was using motul 5100 and was pleased - it is also what my local Suzuki dealer uses. I have upgraded to the Motul 300v, much more pricey but no false neutrals and easier gear changing - also - I can now push the bike around in gear without the engine running. Not possible with 5100 or other oils.
Yes an oil needs to make you warm and fuzzy... but it also needs to work with the clutch and gearing system. If you are getting false neutrals and clunky gear changes in your chosen brand of truck oil, try switching to a more motorcycle specific brand (such as motul 5100 for example) to see if your gear changing issues go away.
BTW, my motul looks like honey on the dipstick (not like this black crud). And, if you bother, motul oil smells nice too :icon_mrgreen:
Michael