Hey, I'm about to adjust my valves and clean my carbs.
I can't figure out how to remove the rear body panels.
I've already removed all visible bolts and the screws holding the middle piece in the rear.
Can somebody help me?
Also, my service manual mentions nothing about it, nor can I find anything on this in the forums.
Alright, figured out the rubber things and got the actual panels off.
Now I gotta remove the cable from the lock mechanism.
I swear, this has got to be the toughest part.
Rear panels are held on by a few pegs in rubber grommets. Look in there and feel around - you'll locate them. GENTLY pull each one out. Don't grab a panel and yank it out - you'll snap off the pegs. Pull out from each grommet one at a time just so it is free of the grommets. Once all grommets are free, it falls off. 3 grommets each side as I recall (at least on 89-00 models)
The tail center usually sort of snaps in place. You should be able to lift up the inner part of it to clear the side pieces and slip it out the back.
Helps to know what year your bike is.
Quote from: xtelevisionset on December 13, 2011, 06:21:45 PM
Alright, figured out the rubber things and got the actual panels off.
Now I gotta remove the cable from the lock mechanism.
I swear, this has got to be the toughest part.
Remove the cable at the seat latch. Super simple to remove that end. Lock end harder so don't do it there.
Ah thanks.
2002.
And I didn't wanna remove it at the seat end because of a zip tie that's holding the cable, but I guess it's time to bust that baby open.
EDIT: Oh, adjustable zip tie. Time to adjust these damn valves.
You shouldn't have to remove the rear plastics on a 2002 to adjust the valves. As far as I know, that only applies to the older style plastics.
Quote from: Bluesmudge on December 14, 2011, 02:11:43 PM
You shouldn't have to remove the rear plastics on a 2002 to adjust the valves. As far as I know, that only applies to the older style plastics.
What he said :thumb:
-Jessie
Okay, so I checked today because it got too dark and late last night.
My valves were all in spec, but just barely.
There was enough clearance for only the 0.03mm gauge in all 4 valves.
Do they generally get tighter or looser as the miles climb?
They will get tighter. As they wear, they will go up into the head more, making for less clearance between the shims and the cams.
If you're that tight right now, I think most would suggest you loosen them up right now because tighter is bad.
I would suggest you loosen them up right now because tighter is bad.
Do you guys know the OEM size for the shims? I think it's 2.65mm, but I'm not sure if it's the same for all year models.
There isn't one size for the shims, you will just have to look. The shims will have their size printed on them.
Quote from: xtelevisionset on December 15, 2011, 04:12:29 PM
Do you guys know the OEM size for the shims? I think it's 2.65mm, but I'm not sure if it's the same for all year models.
I don't think there is one OEM size due to manufacturing variation. I'd imagine it starts in the ~2.80 range from the factory since the gap decreases with wear.
-Jessie
Okay, got everything put together a couple minutes ago.
I pressed the button and all I got was engine cranking, but no ignition.
I checked all my hoses and they were all in their right places and none were pinched.
I think the spark plugs aren't going off. Is there a way to make sure I have the plug cap on the right way?
Or do you think maybe somehow something isn't getting any fuel?
If you have a spare spark plug you can attach it to one of the boots and hold it up to the engine while you run the stater to see if you have spark. And if the float bowls on your carbs got emptied you will need to set the petcock to prime to refill them before the bike will start.
-Jessie
Ah, thanks for the advice.
I set it to prime for a couple of cranks, but out of panic I impatiently switched the petcock to Res and then back to regular.
Will do this tomorrow.
Okay, really starting to get frustrated.
I haven't checked for sparks yet, but I dunno. The thing just isn't starting up.
There was a pinched fuel line going into the bottom of the carbs, so I sorted that out. Put it back together, no fire. Realized the fuel tank was closed up (for the first time), so I sorted that out. No fire.
I just don't understand why this is happening.
I'll check all my hoses again.
I'm so sick of removing and replacing the fuel tank.
Fuel in the hoses, hoses going to the right places.
I guess I'm getting no spark.
Quote from: xtelevisionset on December 18, 2011, 12:01:06 PM
Fuel in the hoses, hoses going to the right places.
I guess I'm getting no spark.
as stated before, pull out a plug, note what condition it is in (wet/dry/black/brown/etc.), put the boot on it and touch the tip of the plug to the head or frame of the bike (must be metal)....while holding the boot (black plastic) crank the starter. You should see strong spark when you crank it. be sure that the kill switch is in the "run" position.