1998 GS500"E".
Everything is clean as a whistle on the outside - there was a tiny bit of corrosion on the tops (looking down at the carbs from the tank) of the bolts that hold the float bowls in place. I couldn't get the MOTHER EFFERS off. I know it's a JIS but I figured I could finagle it out with a good phillips bit. No luck. I was forced to reassemble the carbs and everything else so I could put the bike away to work on it another day.
When I drained the gas there was a little grit and whatnot but it was otherwise clean. Granted, the gas looked like Apple Cider. I figured...hell it's just all varnished up. I dumped about half a can of Seafoam in the tank with 1.25 gallons of gas and let it run for a long time. Didn't really work....though I WAS able to finally get her to take a deep breath every once in a while if I opened the throttle ALL the way. It would go all the way down to like 2K RPM then spike up and sound normal. I know...damned jets are clogged up and that's all it is. I need some help figuring out how to get the float bowls off so I can get at the jets and give them an overnight soaking in some good stuff or maybe even boil them in lemon juice and water. Suggestions?
As far as the float bowls...I drained them and not a spec of ANYTHING came out. No rust colored gas or flakes of anything. Good sign. That means that they're not clogged due to rust or corrosion. All that she's Buddha Loves Youing about is her PO letting that nasty gas sit in her for so long. Inside of the tank is clean as a whistle...no rust. Petcock screen was free and clear of any debris with the exception of a few paint chips which might've gotten on there when I removed it.
Have a few questions... when I go to remove the float bowl, will I need to replace the gaskets/o-rings? I know the answer is I should but I have no idea where to get them. :(
Can somebody give me an idea on how to make her run without having to put the flipping tank and airbox back in, that way in case I don't get the carbs clean the first time around, I can easily remove them again?
I know this is a lot but I'm just so damned overwhelmed at the moment. One last question...any tips on how to get those freaking screws out of the float bowl? Penetrating oil on the tops? :(
UGH! The more I think about it the more it's making me angry that I went through all that freaking trouble for NOTHING! :technical: :technical: :technical: :technical:
Honestly at this point I'm ready just to throw money at someone and tell them to fix it for me so I can enjoy riding the mother effer. Any ideas what a jet service and carb sync might cost? $200?
If the gaskets are still pliable you could re-use them but they are probably the original gaskets so I would replace them. Any local Suzuki dealer can order them or you can use www.cheapcycleparts.com.
Every mechanics toolbox should have decent quality hand impact driver! That should do the trick on your seized screws :thumb:
A little fuel tank off an old lawn mower works great for servicing. In a pinch you can use an old oil bottle with the nipple cap off a gear oil bottle.
You'll have to make some calls in your area but shops around here charge $500-600 to clean and synch carbs on a twin. That is one way I low ball sellers of bikes with running issues like the one you picked up. If the owner doesn't know how to fix it themselves, that is what it would cost them to repair it for the sale.
While you are in there you should pull the head cover and check your valve clearance.
Good luck!
-Jessie
(http://www.mcfeelys.com/images/items/125608-lrg.jpg)
Just use a pair of vice grips to get the bowl screws off.
"dumped about half a can of Seafoam in the tank with 1.25 gallons of gas and let it run for a long time. Didn't really work....though I WAS able to finally get her to take a deep breath every once in a while if I opened the throttle ALL the way."
--If Seafoam didn't work, it means the varnish is really on there. You have to get to it directly.
--Are the carbs off the bike?
--To make an approximation of a JIS screw head, do this: http://youtu.be/sHm15O8Yd0E?t=3m48s
"I need some help figuring out how to get the float bowls off so I can get at the jets and give them an overnight soaking in some good stuff or maybe even boil them in lemon juice and water. Suggestions?"
--Spray PB Blaster on the screws. Go to bed. Try again the next morning. +1 on Vice Grips. Get a small pair of vice-grip pliers and wrench the screw heads off. You will ruin the head but you can always get new stainless hex bolts to replace them.
"Have a few questions... when I go to remove the float bowl, will I need to replace the gaskets/o-rings? I know the answer is I should but I have no idea where to get them."
--http://www.bikebandit.com/1998-suzuki-gs500ew/o/m6058#sch246854 Bike Bandit is overpriced but sometimes they're the fastest.
If you're in East PA, I can help you.
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on December 19, 2011, 08:25:18 PM
If the gaskets are still pliable you could re-use them but they are probably the original gaskets so I would replace them. Any local Suzuki dealer can order them or you can use www.cheapcycleparts.com.
Every mechanics toolbox should have decent quality hand impact driver! That should do the trick on your seized screws :thumb:
A little fuel tank off an old lawn mower works great for servicing. In a pinch you can use an old oil bottle with the nipple cap off a gear oil bottle.
You'll have to make some calls in your area but shops around here charge $500-600 to clean and synch carbs on a twin. That is one way I low ball sellers of bikes with running issues like the one you picked up. If the owner doesn't know how to fix it themselves, that is what it would cost them to repair it for the sale.
While you are in there you should pull the head cover and check your valve clearance.
Good luck!
-Jessie
(http://www.mcfeelys.com/images/items/125608-lrg.jpg)
Thank you Balt. I won't lie, I almost went out there with a 10lb sledge with the intent of exhausting my anger on the bike. Thankfully, I came to my senses. Sorry, this whole thing has been a heartache.
I was thinking of getting an impact driver from Harbor Freight and trying that! Thanks for the reassurance it will work. :)
Also! Thanks for the ingenuity on the part of making a make-shift fuel tank!
Quote from: BrianKD on December 19, 2011, 08:43:38 PM
"dumped about half a can of Seafoam in the tank with 1.25 gallons of gas and let it run for a long time. Didn't really work....though I WAS able to finally get her to take a deep breath every once in a while if I opened the throttle ALL the way."
--If Seafoam didn't work, it means the varnish is really on there. You have to get to it directly.
--Are the carbs off the bike?
--To make an approximation of a JIS screw head, do this: http://youtu.be/sHm15O8Yd0E?t=3m48s
"I need some help figuring out how to get the float bowls off so I can get at the jets and give them an overnight soaking in some good stuff or maybe even boil them in lemon juice and water. Suggestions?"
--Spray PB Blaster on the screws. Go to bed. Try again the next morning. +1 on Vice Grips. Get a small pair of vice-grip pliers and wrench the screw heads off. You will ruin the head but you can always get new stainless hex bolts to replace them.
"Have a few questions... when I go to remove the float bowl, will I need to replace the gaskets/o-rings? I know the answer is I should but I have no idea where to get them."
--http://www.bikebandit.com/1998-suzuki-gs500ew/o/m6058#sch246854 Bike Bandit is overpriced but sometimes they're the fastest.
If you're in East PA, I can help you.
I'm in ATL, GA. :( I'd love some help but unfortunately you're far, far away. No, the carbs aren't off the bike but it took me a total of 15 minutes to get it taken apart. Should be even faster now. Gotta love a naked bike.
Seafoam isn't cutting through the funk so I'm gonna definitely figure out a way to get the bowls off, probably a pair of vice-grips like they suggested. I'll take a visit to my local ACE and pick up some SS hex heads to replace them with. Those JIS heads belong in the garbage.
$9.99 to ship something that weighs less than feathers? PLEASE! I'm not paying that much for that! :flipoff:
Let's see what BikeBandit has to offer me...
When you go to Ace, take the old screws with you. You will need ones the EXACT SAME LENGTH.
Quote from: BrianKD on December 19, 2011, 09:09:14 PM
When you go to Ace, take the old screws with you. You will need ones the EXACT SAME LENGTH.
Dually noted. Not the first time I've been there, believe me. :)
Partsnmore.com
Carb kits--Part #48-1947 $17.00 each- Need 2-. They may have a $50 minimum ....They sell 2 different impact drivers as well as the valve shim tool...(things you will need anyway) if you need to make the minimum order amount...
Quote from: Jared on December 19, 2011, 09:43:23 PM
Partsnmore.com
Carb kits--Part #48-1947 $17.00 each- Need 2-. They may have a $50 minimum ....They sell 2 different impact drivers as well as the valve shim tool...(things you will need anyway) if you need to make the minimum order amount...
I'm gonna just order the gaskets for now. Got some BikeBandit bucks to spend. ;)
On a side note, here's a picture of my new GS500 in all her glory:
(http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/5002/img20111219130430.jpg)
Looking at the pic makes me feel a lot better.
I should mention she gave me a brand new crank cover to fix the one that's slightly scraped, along with a new metal decal. Gotta love somebody that's thorough.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/engineside-1.jpg)
Are the top two "Vacuum Ports" the ones used for carb sync?? Is there a nipple under those caps? :dunno_black:
if you stand the carbs in penertrating oil or deisel just up to the carb inlet overnight and give them a tap with a small hammer before and after you do this they should come undone ,if not use a pair of vise grips to undo as some one else mentioned.
Quote from: Kijona on December 19, 2011, 10:46:43 PM
Are the top two "Vacuum Ports" the ones used for carb sync?? Is there a nipple under those caps? :dunno_black:
Yes. And, yes.
Someone said nipple :oops:
So with MUCH wrenching and cursing, I finally got them all loose. Pulled the float bowls. Removed the floats. Question...the o-rings on the tip of the "float probes" i.e., where the float actually connects to the carb, were a bit dusty looking. I lubed them with some engine oil and put them back in - feels snug. This gonna be okay? Also, even if I didn't disturb the metal tab...am I going to need to re-calibrate the floats? I'm guessing yes?
I soaked the jets in B-12 Chemtool. Then sprayed through with pressurized carb cleaner, followed up with a strand of copper wire. Pilot jet was completely clogged on both carbs - not a spec of light to be seen through it. Afterwards, looked clean as a whistle. There was also some funk in the main jets - this was much more obvious though seeing as how the orifices are much bigger.
What's left? I've cleaned everything up. I'm not too hip on trying to dip the entire carb, especially when the bike still ran great at idle. Idle circuit is obviously functioning as is the choke.
I have some gumout stuff that evaporates immediately - would it be okay to spray some of this in and around the little passages in the intake and such? It evaporates so quickly I cannot imagine it hurting any plastics and the can doesn't say DON'T do it...lol.
Oh, yeah, also...how in the hell do I remove the slide-guide plastic thing? (sorry...forgot what it was called)? It's the white plastic piece that sits down inside the carb after the diaphragm and needle are removed.
Also...um, did my o-rings shrink? There is an o-ring pictured here: http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb17/ben_2_go/Motorcycle%20Stuff/Mikuni%20BST33SS%20Carbs/carbtopvacuumport-1.jpg and it doesn't really look like it "fits" that area, it's just a little floppy around in there. Though, it looks exactly like that picture so...? :dunno_black: :dunno_black:
Do yourself a big favor and go ahead and replace all of the o-rings and gaskets while you have everything apart. You'll be glad you did and they're cheap even if you buy the OEM stuff.
It's just an o-ring, right? I can use anything that's a tight fit, yeah?
When I replaced mine they stretched when I pulled them off so it would have been hard to match them up. I would get the part numbers and get them from your local Suzuki dealer. That way you'll know they're right, and if you have issues once you get everything back together you won't have to second guess yourself for maybe installing the wrong part.
Well, considering I can pick up an entire set of different sized o-rings from Home Depot that are nitrile for $2.40, I think I'll try that first. If not, I'll go OEM.
Quote from: Kijona on December 20, 2011, 11:12:02 PM
Well, considering I can pick up an entire set of different sized o-rings from Home Depot that are nitrile for $2.40, I think I'll try that first. If not, I'll go OEM.
might do better to get them at an auto-parts store. some boxes wil say 'fuel resistant'. a mix-n-match huge box of o-rings is really nice to have. if the gaskets don't leak fuel on the bike, save your money.
i'd imagine your comment about the jets being clogged previously should sort things out nicely now.
remember to check your over flow hoses, actually all the hoses, to make sure they flow and have zero blockages. interesting things happen when they don't allow atmospheric changes to happen.
really like the orange on that bike. looks great.
enjoy ! :thumb:
Thanks man! I really like it too. Very unique!