Damn rains gonna keep me off the roads, so I figure, what the hell, why not start doing all the projects I always wanted?
But first, just a quick question. Just bought this bike, haven't ridden it a ton (<1000 miles) so what do you guys think I should check first? Only thing I've done is change the oil, clean the chain, and clean the carbs. Well, no, thats a lie. Half the carbs, thanks to those effin JIS screws. Also, noticed yesterday that when I hit 40mph, I get a slight wobble (like you were shaking your rear end a bit). Been searching a ton but still have been unable to diagnose it, due to the fact it only appears right around 40 mph
Thanks for the help, everybody, and I'll keep it updated as I go!
Oh and I have a pair of clubmans coming in, and hopefully they're 7/8 diam. So excited when I found the one place in town that would order them in, I forgot to ask!
Order a set of stainless hex head screws and replace any screw you remove from the carbs.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUZUKI-GS500-GS-500-TWIN-Carburetor-cover-stainless-hex-screw-kit-1-/190336231763?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2c50ec6953
BRAKES: inspect and replace if necessary. I NEVER rebuild calipers. I buy nearly new ones from pinwall cycle parts on ebay. I pick parts from nearly new bikes (generally <1000 miles). They show photos of the calipers and pads. Usually $14.95. Pick the best ones with good pads. While calipers have changed over the years, they are all compatible. All my older bikes now have 2009 calipers. Same for rotors: buy excellent OEM used ones. If in doubt, replace them.
Example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/09-Suzuki-GS500F-GS500-FRONT-RIGHT-BRAKE-CALIPER-/190537729135?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c5cef046f
WHEELS: Out of balance probably your front wheel wobble at 40 mph. Rotation rate at 40 mph probably the resonant frequency. I always put new tires on a used bike I buy unless I know the tires are really new. Be sure axles are tight and check chain tension.
Bad steering stem bearings can make a bike feel like the tires are flat after riding a while. Put on center stand. Someone pushes down the back. Front should turn freely with no friction. Check this after riding so the bearings are warmed up.
On center stand, rotate back wheel looking for links in the chain that do not straighten out. If chain was not oiled before, o-rings can swell up making the chain stiff in sections. If chain goes tight/lose/tight/lose it is bad. Could cause wobble, grinding sounds or other stuff. If in doubt, replace with a good chain (about $80-$130).
Replace levers if bent. Tighten all bolts & nuts. Replace ones with bad heads. Use the right ones - not the soft iron Chinese made ones from Homer Despot. Bikes use hardened steel bolts.
If front forks have original springs, replace them with better ones.
If battery old, replace. Go LiFe or at least a good quality gel type. Go cheap and your bike won't start just when you need it most.
Search past postings. My bike Trey had the above problems due to a bad previous owner.
Bikes are rather inexpensive. Replacement parts can be cheap or expensive. You can get really great used parts on ebay for next to nothing if you watch and know what to get and who sells the best quality used parts at low prices (I know - I'm a parts whore).
I have more than enough parts to build 2 complete bikes from scratch - except only 1 spare engine. See thread in projects on West Seattle Bike Build and my Bike Cave.
PS: Buy a stainless steel chain guard :cheers: (See post in Buy/Sell area)
If you need parts, post there as there are a few parts whores or you will be pointed to the best place to get the parts.
Thanks for that list! Looks like I'll be out here working all day. Well, I got the tank/fairings/seat off and decided to fire her up, after reading about easy ways to determine if its lean or rich, and when I checked the airbox after all that (seems to be running lean) I noticed the inside of the airbox was wet with gas. Any ideas as to why? Or is this just from the recycling of fuel from the manifold
What year is it? (Hint: Edit your profile to include your bike as your footnote as I and many have done)
Trey was wet in the airbox and dripping fuel from the airbox boots. Carbs were all screwed up. Cleaning, putting in new jets (not worth cleaning them because they are cheap and now I have extras if you read other postings) and insuring I had the airbox fitted properly, the box is now pretty dry inside.
NOTE: If running with the tank off and using a spare tank, DO NOT hang it from the ceiling! Fuel is fed by gravity and the floats are what stops the fuel. If tank is too high there is too much weight (i.e. force of gravity) on the fuel and the floats can't stop the flow. Ergo: everything floods out. Have the spare tank about the same level as the real tank.
This spare tank (white bottle thing hanging. Square thingy is a carb sync tool) is too high and will flood everything (I know - had it happen). Lowered it down to about same level as the real tank and all was OK.
This was too high causing fuel to squirt from the carbs into the air box. Lowered it and all was OK.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/GS500/trey_on_IV.jpg)
Sorry man, still pretty new to all this. I'll edit it all tonight. And its a 96
I was actually just running off of what was left in the carbs. Rejetting will be a must, seeing as how I'mcoring this exhaust and adding pod filters. Finally found a place to order them online, thought I was going to go crazy trying to find them
Also noticed that the tube from the manifold to the airbox had a bunch of white stuff inside, so I'm assuming thats mold. Which now means I get to start looking through everything and cleaning like im OCD
Just curious, what pod filters are you looking at? Some are better than others.
Suggestion:
First, when you need something, ask here first. Plenty of people to steer you to the right source or one of the parts whores with piles of spare parts.
Second, try not to destroy, cut up or paint anything without asking first. If you have something in excellent condition, someone may want it. Then you can get a tail or fender or whatever that needs painting. Preserve the originals. I have a crap load of tail plastics because I didn't know what color I wanted my bikes to be. I also have ones that are good for painting or for testing different paints to see what sticks.
I remember no one wanting a chopped off rear fender. I wanted an un-cut one. After a while I thew it away. Then someone posted about how they cut off their rear fender. We could have just traded fenders :dunno_black: Instead, a good one got chopped and a chopped one went to the trash.
Some of us parts whores don't have time to list what we have. But if you post a WANTED listing, you probably can get what you need at a fraction of retail. Or someone will tell you where to get it and what is good and bad.
And lastly.......
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/needpics.gif)
I know, I know, I hate myself for not uploading pics yet. sadly, most pics will be before&after due to my camera crapping out while I was working on the bike :technical:
But, progress so far:
1/2/12: Cleaned/inspected carbs, valves, sprockets, chain. Very possibly need a new chain, this one is right on the border of being too loose. Also repainted exhaust flat black.
1/3/12: Somehow, my speedo cable got to close to my exhaust while I was letting it warm up. Kept smelling something funky but I figured it was the exhaust paint (can says it'll smoke and smell for the first 15 min). Alas, 2 miles down the road I look down and see my speedo cable bent over, almost dragging the ground. So, that's tonights/tomorrow project. Also got my new clubmans on!!!!!!!!! So happy. I'll be much happier when I get a chance to pick up some risers so I can stand up after I get off the bike lol. Pics will all be uploaded tomorrow.
And, best part: Both times I've ever had mechanical issues, the first motorcyclist to pass by has come back and stopped. WHich is one of the reasons I love having this motorcycle. It's like being in my frat; you feel like you have brothers everywhere!
Damn adhd, off topic again. Anyways, this time, this big ol' harley rider pulls up next to me. He makes sure I didnt just crash, and then starts to look at my bike. I show him the cable. Him: "WOW, thats your brake! Your rear brake!" *see's the look on my face* "I mean front brake." Me: "Umm... thats my speedometer cable." Him: "....man, those wires look like shaZam!." Then he goes back to his bike, fires it up, and takes off sounding like a damn tractor luggin down the road. But boy, he sure made me feel smart :icon_mrgreen:
I'm not sure why, but your signature is so distracting...........
platitudes on a bike forum....eek.....
Hey, check your rear tire pressure. Also, put the bike on its centerstand and scan the rear tire - specifically the side walls, for any signs of cracks, bulges, or otherwise undesirable malformations.
Another thing you should do is check the tightness of the swing arm and also check the tightness of the rear axle.
Can you feel the wobble in the handlebars at all? My KLR650 had some severe stability issues at highway speed but I later figured out that it was because the steering was so sensitive, it was actually my shoulders buffeting and causing the front to wobble as if I was riding on a storm grate or metal bridge.
Quote from: adidasguy on January 02, 2012, 02:23:00 PM
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/GS500/trey_on_IV.jpg)
Is that...a dual-horn setup? I've seen that pic a hundred times but I just now noticed what appears to be two forward facing horns with covers over them.
One blast on that dual horn and everyone starts looking for a semi.
I don't know if that's good or bad.
If I blast it right next to some (fill in your description here______________________) they really take notice - expecting to be flattened by a truck and it's only l'il 'ol me :D
I wish I had a loud PA system that, at the touch of a button, would shout "Get off that damn cellphone and pay attention to your driving"
Quote from: adidasguy on February 10, 2012, 01:49:02 PM
One blast on that dual horn and everyone starts looking for a semi.
I don't know if that's good or bad.
If I blast it right next to some (fill in your description here______________________) they really take notice - expecting to be flattened by a truck and it's only l'il 'ol me :D
I wish I had a loud PA system that, at the touch of a button, would shout "Get off that damn cellphone and pay attention to your driving"
Is there a high-five smiley? We need one. :thumb:
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/nilly.gif) (http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/hijacked.gif) (http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/hissyfit.gif)
Quote from: Kijona on February 10, 2012, 02:06:17 PM
Is there a high-five smiley? We need one. :thumb:
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/hi5.gif)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/smiley-vault-misc-128.gif) (http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/high5.gif) (http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/559d72cb.gif)
and one more for kijona (http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/smiley_highfive.gif)
Quote from: adidasguy on January 02, 2012, 01:42:28 PM
Order a set of stainless hex head screws and replace any screw you remove from the carbs.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUZUKI-GS500-GS-500-TWIN-Carburetor-cover-stainless-hex-screw-kit-1-/190336231763?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2c50ec6953
BRAKES: inspect and replace if necessary. I NEVER rebuild calipers. I buy nearly new ones from pinwall cycle parts on ebay. I pick parts from nearly new bikes (generally <1000 miles). They show photos of the calipers and pads. Usually $14.95. Pick the best ones with good pads. While calipers have changed over the years, they are all compatible. All my older bikes now have 2009 calipers. Same for rotors: buy excellent OEM used ones. If in doubt, replace them.
Example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/09-Suzuki-GS500F-GS500-FRONT-RIGHT-BRAKE-CALIPER-
/190537729135?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c5cef046f
Hey that stainless screw set for the carbs that you posted, do you know if that would work also with a 2006 model. In the ad it says 89-00 but I thought that those models are pretty much the same as the newer year made bikes?
WHEELS: Out of balance probably your front wheel wobble at 40 mph. Rotation rate at 40 mph probably the resonant frequency. I always put new tires on a used bike I buy unless I know the tires are really new. Be sure axles are tight and check chain tension.
Bad steering stem bearings can make a bike feel like the tires are flat after riding a while. Put on center stand. Someone pushes down the back. Front should turn freely with no friction. Check this after riding so the bearings are warmed up.
On center stand, rotate back wheel looking for links in the chain that do not straighten out. If chain was not oiled before, o-rings can swell up making the chain stiff in sections. If chain goes tight/lose/tight/lose it is bad. Could cause wobble, grinding sounds or other stuff. If in doubt, replace with a good chain (about $80-$130).
Replace levers if bent. Tighten all bolts & nuts. Replace ones with bad heads. Use the right ones - not the soft iron Chinese made ones from Homer Despot. Bikes use hardened steel bolts.
If front forks have original springs, replace them with better ones.
If battery old, replace. Go LiFe or at least a good quality gel type. Go cheap and your bike won't start just when you need it most.
Search past postings. My bike Trey had the above problems due to a bad previous owner.
Bikes are rather inexpensive. Replacement parts can be cheap or expensive. You can get really great used parts on ebay for next to nothing if you watch and know what to get and who sells the best quality used parts at low prices (I know - I'm a parts whore).
I have more than enough parts to build 2 complete bikes from scratch - except only 1 spare engine. See thread in projects on West Seattle Bike Build and my Bike Cave.
PS: Buy a stainless steel chain guard :cheers: (See post in Buy/Sell area)
If you need parts, post there as there are a few parts whores or you will be pointed to the best place to get the parts.
I think there is a question in there inside the quote.
If you're asking about the SS screw set for carbs: pretty much the same on old and new. plenty of screws there to replace all the important ones. I only replace as I remove something: caps, bowls, etc. . Didn't bother replacing all the screws that hold the 2 carbs to the mounting brackets and to each other. Didn't see a need to.
Quote from: adidasguy on February 10, 2012, 05:59:24 PM
I think there is a question in there inside the quote.
If you're asking about the SS screw set for carbs: pretty much the same on old and new. plenty of screws there to replace all the important ones. I only replace as I remove something: caps, bowls, etc. . Didn't bother replacing all the screws that hold the 2 carbs to the mounting brackets and to each other. Didn't see a need to.
Ya that was the question, good eye there bud. Boy did I ever screw that up....lol.
So that kit should work for a 2006 then.
Yes. It is a bag of screws & stuff. Nothing unique or special. Just handy to have all the right size screws in one bag. Saves you the time of measuring all of them and doing a complicated screw order.
Quote from: adidasguy on February 10, 2012, 06:33:17 PM
Yes. It is a bag of screws & stuff. Nothing unique or special. Just handy to have all the right size screws in one bag. Saves you the time of measuring all of them and doing a complicated screw order.
By any chance could you get a list of what screws and sizes are in that lil ole bag?
I'd like to stop by harbor freight and pick up what I need in black instead of silver.
No, I don't have a list. Sorry.