I saw a post from someone, using "liquid gasket".
Anyone in the know, have an informed opinion on using that stuff, vs a "real" factory crafted gasket?
i like having formed paper or metal gaskets. liquid is harder to apply; clean up is more of a pain in the ass too.
sometimes gaskets aren't available so you have to use liquid. or certain geometries force you to use a liquid.
functionality is about the same imo. it's really more of a matter of practicality
After reading CarCraft and seeing how they did an oil pan with a fat bead I tried it on my bike and had success. Since then did two oil pans and also side covers that way without leaks. I was surprised but it worked.
The manufacturers have already done all the leg work on this so why change anything. If there was a formed gasket there originally put a new formed gasket back in, if they used a sealing compound you use a sealing compound......simples..... :thumb:
Quote from: sledge on January 06, 2012, 03:35:12 PM
The manufacturers have already done all the leg work on this so why change anything. If there was a formed gasket there originally put a new formed gasket back in, if they used a sealing compound you use a sealing compound......simples..... :thumb:
Way to logical. :dunno_black:
I dont know if you guys have seen this page, and you probably have, but here is a cool approach to gasketing, that failed, but his head gasket worked!
http://beergarage.com/GSOilPan.aspx
Quote from: sledge on January 06, 2012, 03:35:12 PM
The manufacturers have already done all the leg work on this so why change anything. If there was a formed gasket there originally put a new formed gasket back in, if they used a sealing compound you use a sealing compound......simples..... :thumb:
Interesting... but are "sealing compound" and "liquid gasket" exactly equivalent?
I assume the 2 terms are used interchangeably, someone correct me if I'm wrong. The most common term I see used is RTV which stands for Room Temperature Vulcanizing. I work for Toyota who uses FIPG (Form In Place Gasket). Toyota uses it on oil pans, differentials, some water pumps, etc. Dabs are also used in addition to rubber gaskets to fill imperfections that may leak similar to the spots on a GS head where the cam journals were machined.
In my experience, most people (myself included at times) use way to much material when it comes to liquid gaskets. Remember that the 2 pieces are being squished together by force which doesn't leave much space to fill. The factory has robotic machines that lay a perfect sized thin bead of FIPG on assembly. When disassembling engines that a mechanic has resealed at some point in the past you tend to find unnecessary globs of FIPG inside and outside of the surface being sealed. If a piece of the excess material inside the engine would break off and clog an oil passage it could lead to a catastrophic engine failure. Just an important fact to keep in mind when working with liquid gasket material.
And not all liquid gasket material is created equally. Toyota black FIPG (not the grey transaxle stuff) is great stuff. I use it on all of my motorcycle projects where such material is needed. Yamaha Yamabond is also good stuff. And there is some pink stuff used on Volvos that I don't know the name of. I haven't had much experience with it but I know it dries rock hard!
My 2 cents...
-Jessie
Quote from: Phil B on January 06, 2012, 07:27:22 PM
Quote from: sledge on January 06, 2012, 03:35:12 PM
The manufacturers have already done all the leg work on this so why change anything. If there was a formed gasket there originally put a new formed gasket back in, if they used a sealing compound you use a sealing compound......simples..... :thumb:
Interesting... but are "sealing compound" and "liquid gasket" exactly equivalent?
Just descriptive terms to me........unless does one do somethinng the other doesnt??
Super glue/ tig welder works for sealing those NASTY gaps. :D
And silastic.
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on January 06, 2012, 07:54:58 PM
I assume the 2 terms are used interchangeably, someone correct me if I'm wrong. The most common term I see used is RTV which stands for Room Temperature Vulcanizing. I work for Toyota who uses FIPG (Form In Place Gasket). Toyota uses it on oil pans, differentials, some water pumps, etc. Dabs are also used in addition to rubber gaskets to fill imperfections that may leak similar to the spots on a GS head where the cam journals were machined.
In my experience, most people (myself included at times) use way to much material when it comes to liquid gaskets. Remember that the 2 pieces are being squished together by force which doesn't leave much space to fill. The factory has robotic machines that lay a perfect sized thin bead of FIPG on assembly. When disassembling engines that a mechanic has resealed at some point in the past you tend to find unnecessary globs of FIPG inside and outside of the surface being sealed. If a piece of the excess material inside the engine would break off and clog an oil passage it could lead to a catastrophic engine failure. Just an important fact to keep in mind when working with liquid gasket material.
And not all liquid gasket material is created equally. Toyota black FIPG (not the grey transaxle stuff) is great stuff. I use it on all of my motorcycle projects where such material is needed. Yamaha Yamabond is also good stuff. And there is some pink stuff used on Volvos that I don't know the name of. I haven't had much experience with it but I know it dries rock hard!
My 2 cents...
-Jessie
+1 on the toyota FGIP, tis great stuff. wouldn't dare trust a liquid for a head gasket applicatoin, but for keeping oil where it should be, yes, fine.
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on January 06, 2012, 07:54:58 PM
In my experience, most people (myself included at times) use way to much material when it comes to liquid gaskets. Remember that the 2 pieces are being squished together by force which doesn't leave much space to fill. The factory has robotic machines that lay a perfect sized thin bead of FIPG on assembly. When disassembling engines that a mechanic has resealed at some point in the past you tend to find unnecessary globs of FIPG inside and outside of the surface being sealed. If a piece of the excess material inside the engine would break off and clog an oil passage it could lead to a catastrophic engine failure. Just an important fact to keep in mind when working with liquid gasket material.
-Jessie
I was going to make this same point.....I had a shop do some work on my Honda....later I disassembled some parts and found broken off pieces of the stuff inside the engine.....
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