So I just screwed up an oil change and seem to have stripped either the nut or the bolt it attaches to on the oil filter cover. After changing the oil and filter everything seemed fine, but when I started the bike oil started flowing out from the filter-cover area. I think the O-ring must have come out of its groove as I re-attached the cover, as I forgot to smear a little grease on it to keep it in place. Before I realized that was probably the cause, I tried tightening the nuts more and apparently torqued one too much. The nut isn't rounded, so I'm guessing some threads must have gotten stripped. When I try to remove it, it just spins in place without coming loose. I've tried soaking it in WD40 and using vise grips, but that thing is stuck in there real good. Any suggestions for how to get it off? I could try a dremel but would prefer another method, as it's a difficult area to access and I don't want to screw up the bolt while removing the nut. It would be difficult to get it to a shop as I had to remove the oil to stop the leak. Any suggestions?
You're stuck repairing it yourself, I guess. You will need to buy a new stud and nut.
Cut the old nut off and remove the filter cover. Grab what's left of the stud with vice grips and unscrew it. Insert new stud with thread locker.
Then don't cross-thread or overtorque the filter cover nuts! (but I think you figured this one out already)
Not to worry. This happens all the time. You boogered up the stud. You'll soon be cutting it out and replacing it.
I'm sure someone that's done this before can chime in with a detailed method.
Thanks for the replies. I was wondering how the stud comes out, and how it stays in once it's replaced. So it's just threadlock that keeps the stud in place, and it can be removed with vise grips with the cover off. That clears things up. So once I get the nut off it won't be too hard to remove the stud. I just have to figure out how to fit the dremel into that tight space, and it should be easy work. I ordered a new nut and stud from Bike bandit. Hopefully they won't take too long to ship, as I'm stuck driving around in a cage until I get this fixed >:(
Quote from: remn on January 11, 2012, 03:03:53 PM
Thanks for the replies. I was wondering how the stud comes out, and how it stays in once it's replaced. So it's just threadlock that keeps the stud in place, and it can be removed with vise grips with the cover off. That clears things up. So once I get the nut off it won't be too hard to remove the stud. I just have to figure out how to fit the dremel into that tight space, and it should be easy work. I ordered a new nut and stud from Bike bandit. Hopefully they won't take too long to ship, as I'm stuck driving around in a cage until I get this fixed >:(
Don't use the dremel. Use a hacksaw. You're liable to screw it up worse with a dremel. Hacksaw is more or less more precise, and slower, so it forces you to take your time with it and a few slips won't hurt anything.
The other thing to consider while using a dremel is it's going to fling molten metal everywhere. You've got 5 gallons, give or take, of gas sitting right above it. My advice is use a hand tool. :)
Quote from: Kijona on January 11, 2012, 03:07:41 PM
The other thing to consider while using a dremel is it's going to fling molten metal everywhere. You've got 5 gallons, give or take, of gas sitting right above it. My advice is use a hand tool. :)
Thanks for the laugh. Molten metal...that's funny.
Remn,
A dremel will do fine if you can wiggle it in there at the right angle. Plan on replacing the stud - I've broken one before- but I busted the stud- redrilled and tapped and replaced the stud.
If you can get to the end of the stud (cap /acorn nuts suck sometimes)- you can try cutting a slot in the end of it so you can use a screwdriver to try to turn the stud out.
Or try to split the nut by cutting along the axis of the stud ( cutting the nut ) -Long shot of not damaging the stud if it's not already chewed up...but a chance.
Quote from: Jared on January 11, 2012, 03:31:28 PM
Quote from: Kijona on January 11, 2012, 03:07:41 PM
The other thing to consider while using a dremel is it's going to fling molten metal everywhere. You've got 5 gallons, give or take, of gas sitting right above it. My advice is use a hand tool. :)
Thanks for the laugh. Molten metal...that's funny.
Remn,
Well, before you dismiss my advice, let me tell you a story about how I was doing the same thing to a dirt bike, except on the exhaust bolts (the bike was cold), and the bike caught fire. I surely wasn't laughing when I got my eyebrows singed off and had to replace my throttle cable and fuel lines. There wasn't even any visible gas.
Granted, I was using an angle grinder but the same principle still applies. My concern is for the safety of the person doing the work. There's no reason NOT to use a hack saw unless it's the amount of time it would take. Still, it pays to take your time.
Twice.....even better.
Go use a dremel for 10 seconds and get back to me .
Take your hacksaw out to your bike and see if you can get to the nuts. The bottom one is the only one you'll maybe be able to touch.
Remn- afterthought... take your front wheel off for easier access (forks too if needed...)- Was it the bottom one that stripped out?
EDIT :
If you can't get a cutting tool in there something you may try is putting a box wrench on the nut to keep it from spinning and drilling the nut/end of the stud off - wont be fun as the exhaust being there will force you to drill sort of sideways .
Good luck.
Wedge a screwdriver between the nut and the cover as you spin it. Might just force it off enough to pick up on the good thread and spin off or it might lock the nut onto the stud and allow the stud to spin out of the casing as you tuen the nut.
Quote from: Kijona on January 11, 2012, 03:07:41 PM
The other thing to consider while using a dremel is it's going to fling molten metal everywhere. You've got 5 gallons, give or take, of gas sitting right above it. My advice is use a hand tool. :)
I would be more concerned about the sparks landing on and damaging the paint/plastics than seeing everything go up in a flames but if you are gonna go down this road you could just shut the valve, drain the carbs, remove two bolts take the tank off the bike and place it out of the way somewhere in about 2 mins............. but hey........maybe I am just thinking too hard or maybe its just too much effort for some :thumb:
Quote from: Kijona on January 11, 2012, 03:06:12 PM
Don't use the dremel. Use a hacksaw. You're liable to screw it up worse with a dremel. Hacksaw is more or less more precise, and slower, so it forces you to take your time with it and a few slips won't hurt anything.
(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h55/GDunlavey/DSCF0021-1.jpg)
God knows I am trying but I just cant see how you can get a hacksaw in there any easier than a dremmel :dunno_black: In fact....I cant see how you can get a hacksaw in there.....PERIOD!
tell you what......If you can show me a pic of you succesfully hacksawing those nuts off without seriously damaging anything I will send a cheque for 1k to the charity of your choice :thumb:
Probably not a good thing but I've gotten kind of numb to fire risks. When I started out as a mechanic I was intimidated by grinding sparks. As long as there is not a fuel leak, your risk of fire is minimal at best. My job requires the use of grinders and torches on a daily basis. In fact, on some of the Tundra recalls a torch has been required to cut the gas tank straps from the rusty frame :o The worst I've done is set rubber bushings and boots on fire by accident when trying to free up frozen tie rods.
-Jessie
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on January 11, 2012, 05:33:46 PM
Probably not a good thing but I've gotten kind of numb to fire risks. When I started out as a mechanic I was intimidated by grinding sparks. As long as there is not a fuel leak, your risk of fire is minimal at best. My job requires the use of grinders and torches on a daily basis. In fact, on some of the Tundra recalls a torch has been required to cut the gas tank straps from the rusty frame :o The worst I've done is set rubber bushings and boots on fire by accident when trying to free up frozen tie rods.
-Jessie
Totally understandable. I mean, I too feel the same way but I'd just hate to hear the guy come back and say his bike burst into flames or worse...he had gotten burned. I think some people are more experienced than others with power tools as well, so I just thought it would be safer that he go ahead and use a small hacksaw or some other manual tool to do it. Not everyone is a mechanic or a hand-worker. I wasn't trying to sound like a negative Nancy.
Also, I have no idea what the guy's background with tools or is, or, for that matter, how old he might be. I know we have a few teens here. Better to be safe than sorry, ya know?
Coping saw:
(http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/public/DUhg-kEYcz2ao3zsg-W09lIRTMvlaKyNEAD3LNsvSnmSsE7y31tkgnkSRBdJzvS6nrsfmUfeNBnjXIEnDmlaOxI0V2WMcjoUTTfjyaxYqAirk6grHVdxlluZ_LLkjGlyx_dzetRnNEQcqe1jyNt222smcHr7Tz_wfA9xB5PAWKnwB5urtSi9jYHKqQE9t_iJDb0PK7xrIqXQ-C1n_pRNhHJGxDQVsPUyaFpWw23sOxjdf87FflRo6EWSpOG3oCgxY4tkpdn7MT7sKrzr33ccueenLFGG1hZ-5ujqkQttKAw5jO29MczfKyKhBwwRbAJRkXq-VQ)
Could use this, or one of the blades, or a hacksaw blade by itself with a rag around it for grip.
Remn,
Congratualtions. (http://www.runemasterstudios.com/graemlins/images/winner.gif)
You are the 237th person (give or take X number) to do this. Some even asked about changing the oil, were WARNED about fubaring the cover nuts and still did it. Take solace in the fact you are not alone.
Good luck fixing it.
Michael
It is the bottom nut that's stuck. I could see a hacksaw blade on it's own gripped with a rag working, but I'll probably just take my chances with a dremel to save time :icon_mrgreen: Depending on which side I approach it from, I should be able to get the molten metal to shoot downwards towards the ground instead of upwards towards the bike. As long as I clean off all the oil that leaked all over the cover and surroundings it should be fine.
Thanks for all the advice. Now if you'll all write a letter to Bike Bandit on my behalf maybe they'll ship the replacement parts sometime this month :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: remn on January 12, 2012, 12:42:51 PM
It is the bottom nut that's stuck. I could see a hacksaw blade on it's own gripped with a rag working, but I'll probably just take my chances with a dremel to save time :icon_mrgreen: Depending on which side I approach it from, I should be able to get the molten metal to shoot downwards towards the ground instead of upwards towards the bike. As long as I clean off all the oil that leaked all over the cover and surroundings it should be fine.
Thanks for all the advice. Now if you'll all write a letter to Bike Bandit on my behalf maybe they'll ship the replacement parts sometime this month :icon_mrgreen:
Looking at the photo..the bottom nut is not a "nut"...it looks like a bolt to me. The upper one is the standard nut which is an "acorn nut".....the lower one does not have the shape of an acorn...it has the shape of a bolt....
I would guess that somebody previously broke the stud by over-tightening.....removed the stud...and replaced it with a bolt....Trouble is, you don't want a bolt in this application...because you are going into aluminum, with a steel bolt...over time, the aluminum will wear out, and possibly strip out, which is what I think happened here.....
You can't just install another stud and expect it to hold either, now that the treards on the crankcase are stripped out........
The only options are "oversized stud" Which we often use on airplane engeins, but probably not available for motorcycles........
Or
helicoil.....which "restores" the threads to original, then an OEM stud can be installed...
Helicoil and new stud need to be installed by somebody who knows what they are doing, or you will ruin the case big time!!
Cookie
That pic isn't of my bike. My bottom nut is the same as the other 2, so hopefully replacing the nut and stud will work. The parts shipped yesterday, hopefully they'll get here tomorrow and I can get the bike running over the weekend.
Quote from: remn on January 13, 2012, 12:52:07 PM
That pic isn't of my bike. My bottom nut is the same as the other 2, so hopefully replacing the nut and stud will work. The parts shipped yesterday, hopefully they'll get here tomorrow and I can get the bike running over the weekend.
Oh...Ok
If only the nut is stripped, (not likely) you may only need a new nut .
If the exposed threads of the stud are stripped, (not likely) you may need only a new stud and a new nut.
If the crankcase is stripped, you need to install a helicoil, new stud and new nut
Putting a new stud into bad threads in the crankcase will result in the same problem all over again!
Cookie
If the crankcase is stripped
The new stud and nut came in the mail today and the problem is fixed :woohoo:
Luckily the threads in the crankcase weren't stripped. I just dremeled off the stuck nut, got the stud out with vise grips, screwed the new stud in with some threadlock, and put on the new nut. This time I put some grease on the oil filter O ring to make sure it stayed in place when I installed the cover. Definitely won't forget to do that in the future :icon_mrgreen:
Thanks again for all the tips, I keep learning more about my GS on this forum :icon_mrgreen:
Exactly how I expected it to work out! :thumb:
Quote from: remn on January 14, 2012, 06:13:43 PM
The new stud and nut came in the mail today and the problem is fixed :woohoo:
Luckily the threads in the crankcase weren't stripped. I just dremeled off the stuck nut, got the stud out with vise grips, screwed the new stud in with some threadlock, and put on the new nut. This time I put some grease on the oil filter O ring to make sure it stayed in place when I installed the cover. Definitely won't forget to do that in the future :icon_mrgreen:
Thanks again for all the tips, I keep learning more about my GS on this forum :icon_mrgreen:
Good --- Glad you got it all fixed up.
How'd you keep all that molten metal flinging off from the dremel from burning your garage down? :icon_mrgreen: