I'm cheap, so I decided I could torque down my cams with my 3/4" torque wrench, instead of spending $30 on a cheap 1/4" wrench that works in inch pounds. I knew that a torque wrench is not very accurate at the bottom end of its range but I did it anyways. Then I snapped the bolt and now I am out over $100 for a screw extractor set and a properly sized torque wrench.
Why does it seem like I only end up with cool new tools after making a stupid decision? Anyways, learn from me and buy a precision torque wrench for those little bolts.
Good info, I dont have Any right now!
When I work on cars, the goodntight method usually works, dont seem that way on bikes, though
I just did the exact same thing 3 days ago on one of my valve cover bolts, and without a torque wrench I broke one of the same bolts you did before that.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=58463.0 <- see how I got my snapped bolt out in reply 15 and 16. Had to drop the engine out so I could get at it. If you have trouble let me know.
Were you able to get the cam journal bolt out with a left hand drill bit?
Also, was your engine/head on or off the bike? I would love to get it out without taking the head off again because I would maybe then need new gaskets/copper washers? I think with a drill extension I can get the angle I need on the bolt.
Edit: I see you answered my question in your edit. I don't want to drop the engine if I don't have to. I'll try the drill extension first.
It depends which journal cap bolt it is. Some of them I think I could have gotten the proper angle without taking the engine out of the frame. I broke the one toward the front of the bike on the right exhaust valve, so I had to drop the engine out of the frame to get the angle. Mine came out with the 3/32" left-handed bit after drilling one hole with a 1/16" left handed bit. You shouldn't have to take the head off.
Chalk it up to expirence and move on. Hope it works out for u.
Mine is the farther back bolt on the right exhaust valve, so still very far into the frame. I tested it with a long strait stick to see if I was going to be able to get the correct angle and it looked like it was not going to work.
So, I popped the head off again. I figured this would be much easier than taking the engine out of the frame. The head gaskets and copper o-ring gaskets look the same as when I put them on in the first place (the bike has not been run since then) so I don't think I will have to replace them.
The tools I ordered should be here in a few days and then I can get back to work. I think the bolt should come out easy because there is no rust or anything like on exterior bolts.
Update for anyone who ever finds this thread helpful:
Pulled the head and used a left hand drill bit and screw extractor to pull the broken bolt out. Worked great, no fuss. A powerful center-punch helped to start the drill in the right place.
My new torque wrench comes tomorrow and then I can try this again with the proper torque setting. Let's hope there is no more drama!
Nice work! That method worked great for me too. Just be sure to get all the metal shavings from drilling clear from your cams. :thumb: