Adfalchius and I teamed up last Saturday and shot 3 new videos. They are now edited and uploaded to youtube. I didn't watch them before uploading so there may be some typos, let me know if anything major is off. I did notice on the oil change video that we didn't show to remove the dipstick but hopefully even a noob can figure that out :laugh: Let me know if you have any suggestions for future videos. We will do a simple carb cleaning video next.
-Jessie
Oil and Filter Change: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0qaR37f00w&context=C3d5e5a0ADOEgsToPDskKg71t1i6d-OmLfjzOfzpWY
Oil Filter Cover Stud Repair: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1aE_bntq_iE&context=C3d5e5a0ADOEgsToPDskKg71t1i6d-OmLfjzOfzpWY
Brake Bleeding: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iu8e2-qki38&context=C3d5e5a0ADOEgsToPDskKg71t1i6d-OmLfjzOfzpWY
1) monetize your videos, you can make some $$$ with quality like this !
2) these are sticky-worthy, you got my nomination. can i getta +1 ?
3) excellent job both of you. straight forward, no flashy intros, no annoying transitions, no 'hip' music, just a good instructional video.
greeeeeeat ! :thumb:
hopefully these can get added to the video sticky.
Quote from: ohgood on February 28, 2012, 06:03:08 AM
1) monetize your videos, you can make some $$$ with quality like this !
Feel free to send me all the money you want :laugh: Thanks :thumb:
-Jessie
I know you did most of the work, Jessie, but what's my cut?
I love all of these!
:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: Well done
excellent videos!
one question.... what was dripping off your purdy bike at the end of the bleeding video? i hope you say some sort of cleaner...
That bike is far from purty :laugh: The puddle is from dumping some water (actually windshield washer fluid) to clean off any spilled fluid. Good eye!
-Jessie
Excellent job. Very well done. Keep 'em coming. :thumb:
Between your videos and adidasguy's, we're going to have everything covered. These are awesome! :woohoo:
Thanks you two. wiki updated.
Where are they on the WIKI?
Glad to see Balt. do videos. The more the better.
I have more ready to shoot as soon as it warms up a little and dries out (yea, right) here in Seattle.
Quote from: adidasguy on February 28, 2012, 11:35:21 PM
Where are they on the WIKI?
in the "change oil" and top level "regular maint" section.
didnt link the "fix stripped bolt" thingie though.
Great vids :thumb:
Jessie can I make suggestion? For those of us who like to keep our header pipes clean, if you wrap a little aluminium foil around the pipes near the oil filter and sump, this will reduce/stop oil from leaking all over them. When finished simply remove. :thumb:
I know there have been some on here already but i wish you would do a fork oil seals, and spring swap for dummies. good vids but i can already do all that. :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :thumb:
Great videos guys :thumb:
Thanks guys and gals! Knowing they are appreciated makes it worth the effort :)
Adidas- What do you have in the works? Don't want to duplicate efforts.
Twisted- Good tip :thumb: Aesthetics are usually my last concern, that's where Adfalchius is superior. I like to think of that as a rust preventative header coating :laugh:
Knowles- The current fork seal replacement video would apply to any spring swap. Are you just looking for a video on cutting the spring spacers?
-Jessie
I was surprised you didn't use the 2 nut method for installing the studs.
And a very nice way to explain the oil.
And hopefully my new videos will be up soon I've hit a speed bump with my new handlebars
Quote from: slipperymongoose on February 29, 2012, 04:50:42 AM
I was surprised you didn't use the 2 nut method for installing the studs.
Forgot all about that trick! :oops: I'm kind of spoiled by having access to lots of tools :laugh:
-Jessie
Yeah very cool tools with that tapping socket and the stud socket. Awesome I want one of each
Nice to have real tools but the ingenuity of making your own tools form what you have commonly available is a more practical application for this forum.
-Jessie
carburetor rejetting video PLEASE :technical:
Quote from: ghostrider_23 on February 29, 2012, 05:37:40 AM
carburetor rejetting video PLEASE :technical:
[/quote
That is next on the list, any other suggestions?
-Jessie
Some people will do anything for more karma points! J/K....great job! I been procrastinating on the bleeding my own breaks. :cheers:
Quote from: redhawkdancing on February 29, 2012, 09:48:04 AM
Some people will do anything for more karma points! J/K....great job! I been procrastinating on the bleeding my own breaks. :cheers:
I may have to borrow your bike sometime to get a shot of the F model signal generator for a video ;)
-Jessie
I figured that it was the same when you change the fork seals and springs whould just like to see it done once without a homemade tool or the "easy way" i want to do it the right way and to be able to see how to do it on the GS.
Still not quite following you. What do you mean by "the right way and "the easy way"? The homemade tool works just as well as the factory tool for the old style forks. If the new style forks are the same as an SV650 fork I have the real Suzuki special service tool for them but I don't have an F model to try it on. It is just a splined point on a 3/8" socket. You use it with a really long extension. You can't do fork seals with the forks on the bike. You could do springs that way but siphoning out the old oil would be a pain.
-Jessie
He means "right way == completely drain out fork oil and replace", rather than "leave em on the bike, use a hose to suck out junk".
(which pretty much ensures that some old oil will remain)
o course, there's more than one way to "completely drain out fork oil".
I'm waiting to see a video on how to "safely and easily invert your bike, then get it wheels down again" ;-)
The only way to truly drain all the fork all is to remove the forks from the bike, disassemble and thoroughly clean everything.
-Jessie
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on February 29, 2012, 03:48:42 PM
The only way to truly drain all the fork all is to remove the forks from the bike, disassemble and thoroughly clean everything.
-Jessie
Right. so that's what he's asking a video of.
ALthough.. isnt that overkill slightly? after all, when we "change the oil", we (erm.. i guess i should say "most people" :icon_mrgreen:) dont "disassemble and thoroughly clean everything". We just drain it out for a while, and replace fresh fluid.
Quote from: Phil B on February 29, 2012, 03:57:13 PM
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on February 29, 2012, 03:48:42 PM
The only way to truly drain all the fork all is to remove the forks from the bike, disassemble and thoroughly clean everything.
-Jessie
Right. so that's what he's asking a video of.
That's where I'm getting confused I guess, the fork seal replacement video I already did was a complete tear down and rebuild of a stock GS fork.
-Jessie
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/hijacked.gif)
Quote from: adidasguy on February 29, 2012, 04:31:52 PM
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb442/adidasguy/Videos/hijacked.gif)
:laugh: :laugh:
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on February 29, 2012, 10:04:44 AM
Quote from: redhawkdancing on February 29, 2012, 09:48:04 AM
Some people will do anything for more karma points! J/K....great job! I been procrastinating on the bleeding my own breaks. :cheers:
I may have to borrow your bike sometime to get a shot of the F model signal generator for a video ;)
-Jessie
No problemo! She loves being in front of the camera! :cheers:
Great oil change video. I'll be doing my first oil change in April, and I enjoyed watching your video rather than trying to follow a manual.
Only question: What product did you cleaning spray on the engine metal towards the end of the oil change video?
Brake cleaner. Be careful if your exhaust is hot, it is flammable.
-Jessie
Any spray can degreaser will do the trick. :thumb:
You're totally cheating though on these. I mean correct tools and engines off the bike. Let's see you swap a piston on the side of the road with only the factory tool kit!!! :icon_twisted: :flipoff: :flipoff: :flipoff:
Quote from: Twisted on February 29, 2012, 03:44:27 AM
Great vids :thumb:
Jessie can I make suggestion? For those of us who like to keep our header pipes clean, if you wrap a little aluminium foil around the pipes near the oil filter and sump, this will reduce/stop oil from leaking all over them. When finished simply remove. :thumb:
I don't think I've seen GS with headers clean enough that that would make a difference... :cookoo:
Question about the oil. Is Resource conserving the same as Energy Conserving? Couldn't find anything with 10W-30 that didn't say anything. I bought the walmart stuff for like 12 bucks I'll return it if its not suitable for the bike. Just a little confused.
Quote from: J_Walker on March 02, 2012, 05:02:29 PM
Question about the oil. Is Resource conserving the same as Energy Conserving? Couldn't find anything with 10W-30 that didn't say anything. I bought the walmart stuff for like 12 bucks I'll return it if its not suitable for the bike. Just a little confused.
Resource Conserving, Energy Conserving... anything written in the lower part of the API seal is bad. 10w-30 is too light of oil, exchange it for 10w-40 or better yet the 15w40 oil for deisel engines :thumb:
-Jessie
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on March 02, 2012, 05:06:01 PM
Quote from: J_Walker on March 02, 2012, 05:02:29 PM
Question about the oil. Is Resource conserving the same as Energy Conserving? Couldn't find anything with 10W-30 that didn't say anything. I bought the walmart stuff for like 12 bucks I'll return it if its not suitable for the bike. Just a little confused.
Resource Conserving, Energy Conserving... anything written in the lower part of the API seal is bad. 10w-30 is too light of oil, exchange it for 10w-40 or better yet the 15w40 oil for deisel engines :thumb:
-Jessie
/quote]
They sell any of that at Walmart??
Yep, you can get Walmart store brand SuperTech or Rotella name brand.
-Jessie
Should valvoline 10w40 be good? has nothing at all on the seal. The 15w40 Diesel had something on the bottom of the seal, so went with the valvoline one.
Edit: im sticking with the Valvoline, Customer service sucked at walmart and there was only 1 person infront of me returning 1 thing and took them like 20 mins!
Edit2: also what was that oil filter number you get from napa again? The part #?
Edit3: I also looked for a torque wrench.. Didn't know it'd be so hard to find. :/ Anyway heading to napa on monday when I go take the camaro for an oil change. > 2 hours of sitting around..
NAPA part# PS4931. NAPA also sells the Valvoline 4 Stroke motorcycle oil. I used automotive 10w40 in the '90's when I raced dirt bikes and never had any clutch problems. Just change it often because the transmission breaks it down quicker.
-Jessie
What I meant was that I would like to see you do a video on GS taking the forks off the bike, changing the oil, and the steps in order, and what to look for and what to be careful of not doing. The first few times that i do something i like to do it the right, long way so i can see it done from start to finish, and then i can be the one to skip steps if i want. also because im the one riding the thing so if it goes wrong its because i did something wrong not because i watched a video and the guy didn't put something in there that he knows how to do but forgot that a person who has never done it before wouldn't know to do it a certain way.
its just the way that i do it when i take things apart, if i can find someone who knows how to do it then i try to have them there while i do it so they can basically give me the steps in order, and other knowledge. I have done this when i have repaired and fixed things on my truck and sleds, and it worked out like i took it to a dealer and paid them a butt load of money, but instead i did it myself and it would only cost me a case of beer at most. hope this clears it up. as far as the home made tools go im not apposed to making them but if the real item is not overly expensive then i would just go buy it so i have it for later, it just depends on how hard it would be to make and how good it works compared to the store bought ones.
not to sound needy but you have done good vids in the past, so it was just a suggestion on a future video because i have to do this and dont want to bring it in and pay $150 for someone else to do it.
I have been told not to use car engine oil in a bike because that it now contains a additive that makes it more slippery and can make your clutch not work properly, this was by the dealer in duluth mn. is this correct?
Now I get what you are saying Knowles. All you need is a fork removal and installation video though, the fork seal video is a complete tear down and rebuild. The process is the same for both forks (save one pinch bolt) so I only showed one fork leg. You should still invest in a decent repair manual if you don't already have one. The homemade tool works just as well as the factory tool on the old style forks. If you want a real tool it is just a 24mm allen (hex) head socket and a long extension. If the newer style forks are the same as SV650 forks, the Suzuki special service tool is a pointed socket with splines. It is available through any Suzuki dealer, I think I payed about $40 for mine. You will still need a long extension to hold it.
Your dealer is correct about the oil. The friction modifying additives that make a wet clutch slip is what you are checking for when you look at the API seal on the oil bottle. If anything is written in the bottom portion of the API seal it should not be used in a motorcycle with a wet clutch. "Energy Conserving" is the most common friction modifier designation I have seen but lately I have also seen "Resource Conserving."
-Jessie
API Seal
(http://www.aa1car.com/library/API_donut.gif)
24mm Hex Socket- old style forks
(http://www.hayabusa.org/forum/attachments/general-bike-related-topics/202613d1285229661-24mm-external-hex-socket-axle-socket-009.jpg)
SV650 Fork Tool- May work on new style forks but I have not tried it
(http://i735.photobucket.com/albums/ww360/jessiedoran/ForkTool.jpg)
ATM I'm doing a video on steering head bearings in which I show fork removal and installation. Be patient should be up in the next couple days.