I hope most of you know about my broken bolt situation by now but long story short both left (sitting on the bike) exhaust header bolts broke off and are essentially flush with the engine block now. After multiple attempts to remove them via torch, drilling, etc. my cousin and I have decided the best course of action would be to remove the engine so he can drill straight into them. At the moment the front of the frame that goes across (with the hinge in the middle) is in the way of drilling straight into the top bolt.
Now, to me, this is a daunting prospect. I'm no mechanic (my cousin is) and I'm really hating the idea that I bought a bike I have to remove the engine from in order to get down to the simple problem of an oil leak (which in all knowledge I've gathered can be many things, all of which require me to at least have the exhaust back on).
What I'm asking from you guys is every tip you can give to me and my cousin in order to make this as least frustrating as possible. The carbs are "off" the bike (cables are still connected but I can rest it on a board across the bike), and I'm figuring I have to break the chain, which I was planning on replacing before too long anyway. What else do I need to do in terms of connections, etc? I know one person is going to say "read the manual" but to be honest it's a lot easier for me to read it online on a forum than it is to read and be jumping through a book.
Thanks.
Where is your oil leak? I would say just remove head from engine. Couple valve cover bolts, timing chain tensioner, 8 head nuts and its pretty much off. Oh, and the cam bolts. the engine, imho, is not fun to re install. Worse comes to worst, drill it and the flanges out the next metric size up and re thread.
I never dropped the GS engine but when I was (in-out, in out, in-out) sizing up the f2 engine for the frame, I found ratchet straps work really well. S hook to frame, under header/exhaust and S hook to other side, ratchet tight, then loosen it up to lower it down. Did that with the 929 engine I took out this weekend too, although with the way the swingarm mounts straight to engine, didn't really need it. I wish you luck on getting those pesky bolts out.
Quote from: dropitlow88 on March 12, 2012, 11:41:32 AM
Where is your oil leak? I would say just remove head from engine. Couple valve cover bolts, timing chain tensioner, 8 head nuts and its pretty much off. Oh, and the cam bolts. the engine, imho, is not fun to re install. Worse comes to worst, drill it and the flanges out the next metric size up and re thread.
I don't know where the leak is because I had to get the exhaust off to change the filter (before I found out I could've just tilted the exhaust down) and in that process I broke the bolts. It may have been from the valve cover breather hose as there was gas in the oil and somebody here said the higher level of liquid could've made it pour out of that hose.
But the oil leak is a priority once I get these bolts out.
I agree with the advise of just removing the top part only.
If you end up really needing to remove the whole engine, it isn't as difficult as I thought at first. There's no need to break the chain, either. I think you and your cousin would benefit greatly by getting the Clymer manual. If that's not a possibility, at least you could visit a parts website and look at the fiches. There are no more than 4 through mounting bolts. You'll have to have something (obviously) that holds the engine while you release it, and also to help you gently lower it.
3rd vote for just removing the head. It will be easier to get on a drill press than the entire engine. Plus, it sounds like your oil leak is in the top end, so there really is no reason to remove the entire engine.
Alright, what do I need to be careful with when removing the top part of the engine? Am I going to knock anything out of spec (valves, chains, etc.) or is the tensioner a simple thing to deal with?
Just make sure you keep cam caps appropriate locations and use wire or zip ties to hold timing chain. Be careful of the copper washers falling into case when removing head
i vote remove engine. its really easy. remove any wires attached to engine. (neutral safety, ground <in front of right foot peg> take ignition rotor plate off <two screws use an impact screwdriver> remove starter cable),
remove circlip from primary drive gear <by the shift lever> slide it and chain off together *helps to use chain adjusters to give some slack*, loosen the right frame bar and engine through bolts, place small floor jack under engine, remove frame bar and all through bolts noting where each spacer goes as you pull the bolt out. slowly maneuver the engine down and to the right of the bike.
i did this by myself in about 20-30 mins in a 8x5 foot area.
Quote from: oz353 on March 14, 2012, 05:29:26 PM
i vote remove engine. its really easy. remove any wires attached to engine. (neutral safety, ground <in front of right foot peg> take ignition rotor plate off <two screws use an impact screwdriver> remove starter cable),
remove circlip from primary drive gear <by the shift lever> slide it and chain off together *helps to use chain adjusters to give some slack*, loosen the right frame bar and engine through bolts, place small floor jack under engine, remove frame bar and all through bolts noting where each spacer goes as you pull the bolt out. slowly maneuver the engine down and to the right of the bike.
i did this by myself in about 20-30 mins in a 8x5 foot area.
he still has to remove the head to properly drill out the busted bolt for the exhaust. it would make it much easier to just pop it off on the bike. getting the engine out is easy, getting it back in with the side covers on is quite a pain (at least it was for me) it kept getting hung up on the valve cover and side covers. With many select words spoken to it in a firm tone it finally went in :laugh:
If you're trying to chuck the head into a vice so you can drill it with a mill or drill press, by all means just remove the head... I assume you weren't planning to put the whole engine in the holder.
If you're just trying to get better access to the bolts, why not just remove the front forks? Specifically, the front wheel and 2 fork legs? I'm not looking at my bike right now but I would think this would give you the tool clearance you need to those studs. A lot easier job (IMHO) and doesn't require new gaskets.
Quote from: noiseguy on March 14, 2012, 07:56:47 PM
If you're trying to chuck the head into a vice so you can drill it with a mill or drill press, by all means just remove the head... I assume you weren't planning to put the whole engine in the holder.
If you're just trying to get better access to the bolts, why not just remove the front forks? Specifically, the front wheel and 2 fork legs? I'm not looking at my bike right now but I would think this would give you the tool clearance you need to those studs. A lot easier job (IMHO) and doesn't require new gaskets.
i think he mentioned in a previous post that the frame would not allow the correct angle to drill out the snapped bolt.
Agreed, I'd be inclined to pull the head rather than the entire engine, especially if the leak appears to be from the head or base gasket.
You can probably take the head to a machine shop to have the bolts drilled out. Could have helicoils or similar installed, or tap for a slightly oversize stud.