OK, so this project has been in the making for almost a year. I have been looking for a bike that I could turn into an adventure touring bike. My original idea was something more like a triumph scrambler. However this bike popped up on CL a few weeks ago, and I started to research it which led me to this forum. I quickly figured out that this bike would be the perfect platform for my project and scheduled a time to check it out. The bike looks much better in pictures than it did in person. The PO was a very nice guy, and although he tried, his mechanical skills were rather lacking. This led to a few problems I will get into later. I started adding up the repairs and we settled on $925 which was probably fair but the bike does need some TLC.
SO I figured since this forum is part of what pushed me to the purchase that it would only be fair to post the struggles, status and results of my project. But before I get too far here is the bike as purchased
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/gs500-pic2.jpg?i=716263736)
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/gs500-pic1.jpg?i=1453927941)
List Updated 4/24/2012
So here is a list of problems and planned changes.
1) Gas tank is rusted, PO tried to POR15 but didn't prime it properly and it peeled. (going with another tank need to find one)
2) Tank petcock leaks, needs a new o-ring (done)
3) Bike does not run (I suspect carb issues) (done)
4) Need to raise suspension (I am 6' 5") and the stock height won't cut it. Plus I need some extra ground clearance (done)
5) Missing chain guard, Maryland requires it. (done)
6) Missing rear side reflectors, MD requires them (done)
7) Rear caliper is under spec (done)
8) Front wheel bearings are shot (done)
9) I will add about 4" of seat foam, for extra padding and height (almost done, needs final reshape)
10) change bars to aluminum offroad bars. (done)
11) SV650 rear shock this goes to #4 (done)
12) Progressive Fork Springs, new seals, gators, and new oil (Installed and Done)
13) New Dual Sport Tires front and back (done)
14) Hand guards to protect the controls and my hands (Done)
15) Engine guards and engine pan to protect from northeast rock fields (working out design)
16) new chain, the old started to spew the read dust (done)
17) need to check and adjust valve clearance
18) going to replace the orings in the carbs (Done)
19) Ordered a new Needle for both carbs one that is adjustable so I can better dial in the midrange (on order)
20) Mounted custom flyscreen (done)
I'm sure the list will grow as I go on.
Current Bike Status: 4/25/2012: finally snapped an updated photo with all the new stuff installed
Here is the latest image of it.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120425182948491.jpg)
OK so first thing is first, I need to get the bike running. It didn't take much and I would have had it all done in a day if it wasn't for a wiring issue.
The problems I found
Carbs - Completely dis-assembled and found many issues. Main vacuum circuit on both carbs was clogged. Floats were adjusted WAY! too high. Slide springs were not installed correctly instead of being inserted into the slide they were in U shape which didn't let the slide operate properly. I suspect the weird petcock setup on this bike is going to cause issues but will leave it stock for now.
re-assembled everything and tried to start the bike. It would start and run horribly, if I tried to open the throttle at all it would just die. I am starting to second guess my own carb diagnostics. So I ended up spending a day pulling the carbs apart and putting them back together. Checked compression, Spark etc... everything check out WTH!!!! >:(
Then I had a brain storm what if it's electrical, all symptoms point to either fuel or electrical. So I started pulling things apart. I found out that the main plug to the stator was corroded and was causing the spark to fire many times a stroke. I though the spark looked weak but everything else tested out. I clean the connection and wouldn't you know it the bike started right up GRRRRRR....
So with the engine at least running it is time to mock up the suspension height. I had an SV650 shock ordered and on the way. I also wanted to begin the seat mods so I am ready to do the final shaping once the shock is installed.
Here are some images of the seat mods the first layer of foam is a closed cell soft foam for more "suspension" to the seat. The top layer is a more dense layer taken from a type IV seat float for a boat, it worked out perfect.
This is the pile of foam and vinyl for the seat. I just finished gluing the layers of foam on and trimmed the edges, there has been no shaping at this point.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120316_084013.jpg?i=1573816407)
I started some preliminary shaping. Notice the "snow" on the bike, that's not snow it's foam. This is a messy job and the foam ends up everywhere.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120316_153726.jpg?i=1761823398)
This is the semi-final shape. Although until I get my new tires and shock I cannot set the final shape for comfort. Your seat needs to be somewhat level with the bike or you will either slide forwards or backwards as your riding. This will either crush your nuts (if your a guy) or hurt your back and be uncomfortable.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120316_153733.jpg?i=925962804)
OK so here is the bike with the rear shock removed and the front forks pushed down in the triple clamps. This should be indicative of the final ride height I am going for. Although the new tires will raise the bike another inch or so. but this is close. Notice I cut and temporarily stapled the home made seat cover on. This will be removed again for final shaping.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120316_161811.jpg?i=1430406586)
Notice in the last photo I also installed a set of alumalite bars that I had from an old enduro race bike. They worked out awesome and help in giving the bike a more aggressive look. I will probably add a set of handguard from Acerbis or one of the hundreds of other makes out there.
I ordered the rear and front tires this week. A set of Shenko 244's 5.10x17 rear and 4.60x17 front. These are tube type tires but I will be sealing them and installing them without tubes. The rear already came in here's a pic
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120327_130328.jpg?i=182218022)
So I also ordered the following this week.
1) rear rotor
2) new POR15 kit with primer and prep
3) Brakes front and back
4) Reflector tape to make a custom rear reflector
5) stick on wheel weights to balance the tires when I get them both
6) front wheel bearings/seals
I cant wait to see this when its done!
OK so I had some time to ride the bike a little. It is starving for fuel big time. If I bypass the stupid octopus of a petcock it works fine. So instead of going with a vacuum system I am going to put a manual shutoff on the bike. I lucked out and found this item from MFG Supply that is actually for a dual tank lawn mower but it will work perfectly for the GS project and will retain the stock reserve.
http://www.mfgsupply.com/20-11273.html (http://www.mfgsupply.com/20-11273.html)
At less then $20 this is a great option for those that want to remove the stock vacuum shut off.
Here is a picture of the two valves side by side
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120327_111935.jpg?i=2090389231%5B/img%3Cbr%20/%3E%3Cbr%20/%3EHere%20I%20removed%20the%20old%20valve%20and%20am%20making%20a%20template%20to%20begin%20cutting%20the%20aluminum%20plate%20that%20will%20take%20the%20place%20of%20the%20old%20valve%20and%20hold%20the%20new%20one.%20Diamond%20plate%20would%20have%20looked%20awesome%20here.%20But%20I%20already%20have%20the%20plate,%20and%20I%20need%20to%20keep%20expenses%20low.%20%3Cbr%20/%3E%5Bimg%5Dhttp://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120327_114800.jpg?i=1643859292)
Here I am cutting the aluminum for the cover plate.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120327_115341.jpg?i=1050453450)
Here are the finished parts for the install. Notice the longer bolt and the shim that will hold the plate out from the mount welded to the frame.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120327_122226.jpg?i=729828674)
OK and here is the final install with all new fuel lines. Down is off, front is main tank, and back is reserve. Eventually I may engrave it into the aluminum plate but for now It works fine.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120327_122133.jpg?i=448821164)
When I tested the fuel flow I could not believe how much better it was without all that restriction from the stock petcock. I am waiting to get my other tires and bearing to really test the flow.
Cool project! Have you looked around on ADVRider yet? I believe there's a couple GS500's there as well.
About the tires: if the manufacturer recommends tubes, I would run them. I think the bead surface is different between tube type and non-tube tires. Plus, it's just one more layer of rubber before you get a flat.
I know the whole tube / no tube debate is an old one. I am concerned about running tubes for long periods on the highway. Plus this bike will never see offroad like I used to ride with my race bikes. I am looking at 90 street and 10 fire road / light trail. Since my wheels are already setup with beads for tubeless tires. I've matched up the beads with the tires and it looks like it's going to be a great fit. If I was running tubeless tires on tube style rims I would be more concerned. But I think these things are going to be fine. Or maybe I will eat my words and run tubes after I fail miserably. Lol but I don't think so....
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
:thumb:
Hopefully you understand I'm just concerned about your safety:
But tube tires have been withstanding highway speeds (and even endurance racing speeds) for a long time now. Tubeless mag wheels didn't even come around til when........late seventies/ early eighties? Tube tires are made to fit the bead on corresponding wheels - so it's generally bad practice to try to get them to mount to tubeless wheels. With no tubes like your current setup, if the bead separates at speed you have a flat (hopefully that's the worst). With tubes, you could just slip the tire on the wheel (not good, but better than a flat).
Like a said man, I'm just concerned about your safety. Tires are the first thing to keep your skin off the road........
It's cool, and I appreciate the feedback. when I seat them for the first time I will be checking them close. If there is any question I will go with tubes, after all I ran them for 20 years of offroad so i'm not opposed to them. hopefully my other parts will come in this week and I can get the bike inspected and all the papers transferred.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
Awesome project!! Definitely something new, i like where its going!
not much new to report today, I am still waiting on parts. The new front tire came in today here is a shot of the old versus new. Man that is gonna look awesome when it's all mounted.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120328_130742.jpg?i=1413048544)
I sent an email to Race Tech today to find out more about thier spring and emulators for the front. From my research on thier website it looks like this
The bike weighs about 387lb dry plus my 180lb for this application they reccomend Spring Part # FRSP S2938080 .80kg/mm (way stiffer then stock) :woohoo:
The Gold Valve Emulator is part number FEGV S3801
They say to set the oil level to 110mm however they don't recommend the viscosity. Also I wanted to give them the details of the project to see if I should go up one step in spring stiffness since this application goes a little beyond the normal. My concern is I don't want to have a buck board on the road.
We'll see what they come back with, and maybe some of you guys can weigh in on the whole emulator / spring setup.
Those things are beast! You going to put a big dirt bike style front fender on?
Here a race tech emulator write up:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=59261.0
Quote from: steezin_and_wheezin on March 28, 2012, 11:42:06 AM
Those things are beast! You going to put a big dirt bike style front fender on?
Here a race tech emulator write up:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=59261.0
I am not sure how much I want to change the front fender. I like the stock look, kinda reminds me of the alps style offroad bikes. It will defenetly be raised up an inch or so, and maybe shortened a bit in the back. But I will either keep it stock looking or replace the thing all together with something like this.
http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Product/acerbis-universal-supermotard-front-fender/257-8033.aspx (http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Product/acerbis-universal-supermotard-front-fender/257-8033.aspx)
thanks for the link I will read through it.
Those tyres are road legal? Would you mind linking me to some please mate. :D
Project looks good. Although I'm not a massive fan of the strangely large seat, the rest is nice.
Quote from: mysterious_rider on March 29, 2012, 02:57:08 AM
Those tyres are road legal? Would you mind linking me to some please mate. :D
Project looks good. Although I'm not a massive fan of the strangely large seat, the rest is nice.
The seat is not final, I have some more shaping to do so stay tuned for that. I just need to get everything fixed and inspected and the title transferred before I do the major mods. Not that anything I am doing is not legal I just want to make sure there are no snaggles when it comes to inspection and transfer. I just hate dealing with the DMV. Anyway once that is complete I will mount the new tires, modify the front fender, create a much stronger fork brace, set the suspension hieght, then finish shaping the seat.
yeah they are Shinko 244 DOT approved dual sport tires, the best price I found was on amazon. They look a lot like the Kenda's I used to run on my XR650L they worked awesome both on road and offroad. The jury is still out on the Shinko's but I will let you know.
http://www.amazon.com/Shinko-244-Dual-Sport-Front/dp/B001CD6JOK/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1333111804&sr=8-10 (http://www.amazon.com/Shinko-244-Dual-Sport-Front/dp/B001CD6JOK/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1333111804&sr=8-10)
http://www.amazon.com/Shinko-244-Dual-Sport-Front/dp/B001CD8PLU/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333111715&sr=8-1-spell (http://www.amazon.com/Shinko-244-Dual-Sport-Front/dp/B001CD8PLU/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333111715&sr=8-1-spell)
So an update, Today I GOT BALLS!!!!!
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120329_144533.jpg?i=1761753165)
I promptly installed them, the front wheel is so much better without the extra 1/8" of wobble. One big difference with these new bearings the seals are way better then the ones that were in there. The stock ball bearings only had seals on the outside of the bearing . This would have been fine if the inside was packed with grease. The factory decided this was trivial and did not pack them. There is nothing stopping the grease from slinging from the stock bearings and the bearing running dry. If I was you guys I would be sure to pack the inner hub with grease to preserve the stock bearings.
The new bearings are sealed on both sides, like an offroad bearing so there are no worries with dirt and grease.
Update: I wanted to point out that the two seals above are not for this application, I am talking about the seals in the bearings themselves.
IMHO spoked wheels would be sweet on this concept bike. Also, I like what you are doing with the seat, but I think the back end should be flatter. More towards this...
(http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/Gallery%20%20A/Suzuki%20DRZ400SM%2005.jpg)
This is a really interesting concept for a GS. Some more ideas might be a taller rear shock, and black fork boots.
Fork braces maybe you could get from another forum member. There are a couple of threads selling beefed up aluminum braces. Maybe they could even make you one without the holes in the middle for the fender, and you could make yourself bracket for a super motard type fender higher up.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=57028.0
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=59323.0
One last thing...did you mean to chop your chain guard off in the back?
Quote from: bombsquad83 on March 30, 2012, 06:27:31 AM
IMHO spoked wheels would be sweet on this concept bike. Also, I like what you are doing with the seat, but I think the back end should be flatter. More towards this...
This is a really interesting concept for a GS. Some more ideas might be a taller rear shock, and black fork boots.
Fork braces maybe you could get from another forum member. There are a couple of threads selling beefed up aluminum braces. Maybe they could even make you one without the holes in the middle for the fender, and you could make yourself bracket for a super motard type fender higher up.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=57028.0
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=59323.0
One last thing...did you mean to chop your chain guard off in the back?
lots of good ideas and info. :thumb:
Taller rear shock is already in there and I have it adjusted up almost as high as it will go. I took an sv650 shock and did not cut down the bracket. I needed to modify the mount a bit to make it all work. I have about another 1" I could get out of it, but then I need to look into balancing the front which means finding longer forks. Honestly I would rather have a well working suspension then just going for height.
black fork boots are on order LOL, we think alike !
I will definitely check into those fork braces, it's always easier to buy, although I first need to get the front tire mounted and measure things up and figure out the direction I want to go with it all.
The chain guard is a sore topic, the PO decided to remove it. I didn't give it any thought until I took it to be inspected. So basically that was one reason it failed so I had to buy / make one that will allow me to pass. I looked around to shop and found an old tool tray made of heavy duty fiber reinforce plastic. After taking the sawzall to it and the grinder I formed it into a super guard LOL :icon_mrgreen:
Anyway here is the custom guard. It's a work in progress, I want to carve the suzuki "s" into it and shape the edges into more angles. Work keeps getting in the way of my bike progress.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120330_175504.jpg?i=1176997221)
So you mentioned a longer shock here is my sv650 shock. I drilled another hole just above the stock sv650 hole. after testing it with the full length I decided to drill another hole. This lowered the rear about and inch. I did this because the front did not have enough to balance out and I don't want the bike leaning forward. However I purposely kept the stock hole just in case I decide to find a longer set of front shocks.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120330_175540.jpg?i=708872947)
Also here is a great fuel filter I found at autozone. I don't know the application but it has the perfect size connectors and has a 90deg bend on the one end. This helps to eliminate the hard bend that happens when the line comes from the petcock. It is also much larger and flows much better.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120330_175519.jpg?i=563957605)
Keep the ideas coming...
Oh and I agree about the spoked wheels, it's just not in the immediate future. I need to watch my budget (for now) and get this bike on the road.
I wanted to also clarify about the sv650 shock. It is currently sitting about 2 1/2" higher then stock. The center stand was removed since it was about 2" too short. The side stand barely works I will be removing and extending it soon (probably tomorrow). I may leave the center stand off for weight. It also adds a risk of failure on dirt that I don't need.
tomorrow I am going to start thinking about some type of aluminum pan to protect the engine case. I may also make a set of engine guards since this engine sticks out so far.
this is awesome! I've been thinking of taking the gs out on the fire roads here. I look forward to its completion!
Http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=58237.0
Might want to check out these chain gaurds that Adidasguy had made. Not sure if there are any more available. Sweet progress on this thing man. We think alike, and I'm excited to see how this thing turns out. Good idea to make an aluminum pan gaurd.
Wow those chain guards are sweet. I may decide to go with a set when I have some spare cash.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
OK had some time to work on a few things this morning
Started out by working on the kick stand. With the higher suspension the stock stand length is just scary short.
Here is the stock stand, the PO decided to paint it with what looks like roofing tar :cookoo:
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120331_123415.jpg?i=435964442)
So I was going to cut the entire stand off main mount and just weld one piece on but I decided to just splice in a piece instead. I had a piece of 1/4" Schd 40 black that was almost a perfect fit. So i cut about a 2 1/4" piece, split the stand with my sawzall and tacked in the piece.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120331_130009.jpg?i=399451246)
after test fitting the tacked piece to see how the bike was going to sit I went back to the bench and welded the piece in. On stuff like this you should always use short 3/4" tacks on opposing sides to minimize any warpage.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120331_130009.jpg?i=399451246)
Here you can see the welded piece. Notice I added a slight curve to the stand so it doesn't stick out from the bike so far when it's up. It is very slight but you can see it pretty well in this photo.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120331_130518.jpg?i=1458133510)
After test fitting the stand again I noticed that I should have split the stand below the foot tab. Now the tab is right below the rear passenger peg and will be almost impossible to put down. It was a face-palm moment LOL
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120331_130518.jpg?i=1458133510)
So a few minutes later with the sawzall and the welder, problem solved. I also started to smooth out the welds with my flap disc sander. (btw if you've never tried one of these, stop what your doing, drive to a hardware store and purchase one. Then proceed to grind away the evil around you! They rock!)
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120331_131644.jpg?i=1902739378)
So that brings me to the end of my little stand extension. Now my wife can't tell me that my stand isn't long enough, It's just right!
Stand up
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120331_141525.jpg?i=1954071866)
Stand down
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120331_141542.jpg?i=2048984457)
With that project out of the way I decided to start looking at the front fender. Within 15 min or perplexity I devised a simple plan to raise it about 3/4" this should give the new tire enough clearance and maintain the stock look.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120331_141606.jpg?i=1209424016)
Also here is a shot of the stock front bearings that I was talking about earlier. It seems like a design short coming to only put seals on one side and then not pack the inner hub. Well this is what you end up with, dry balls that just burn up >:(
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120331_141658.jpg?i=1429799411)
Quote from: bombsquad83 on March 30, 2012, 06:27:31 AM
[snipped for length]Fork braces maybe you could get from another forum member. There are a couple of threads selling beefed up aluminum braces. Maybe they could even make you one without the holes in the middle for the fender, and you could make yourself bracket for a super motard type fender higher up.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=57028.0
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=59323.0
[snip again]
I know from experience that a flat fork brace won't fit with a high profile (eg rear dualsport) tire, without some sort of spacer/standoff. Trying to sort that on my own bike ATM. Following the thread, as I'm building something like this too. I say 'building' but I mostly mean, 'thinking about next steps on' my project. :embarassed:
Quote from: NonFiction on March 31, 2012, 02:26:14 PM
I know from experience that a flat fork brace won't fit with a high profile (eg rear dualsport) tire, without some sort of spacer/standoff. Trying to sort that on my own bike ATM. Following the thread, as I'm building something like this too. I say 'building' but I mostly mean, 'thinking about next steps on' my project. :embarassed:
What I did was notch my fender so the front brace mounts on the fork slide into the fender. Then I added longer bolts and brass shims that are about 5/8" to 3/4" thick so this raised the whole works (including brace) that much. From my preliminary measurements it should fit just fine. If not I will just make some thicker shims to raise the whole thing up higher.
Right now I have about 3 1/2" between the fender and the rim. I think I only need about 2 3/4" to clear the tire.
I will find out this coming week when I mount everything after I complete my inspection. I am just waiting on a rear brake rotor and then I can go get it all done. Tracking says it will be here Wednesday
OK doing some more research and found these on ebay I think this fits the bill perfectly. I am not one for the whole carbon fiber look but they match the bikes color scheme perfectly
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-BARK-BASHERS-MOTORCYCLE-GLOSS-CARBON-BRUSH-HANDLE-BAR-HAND-GUARDS-PAIR-/260954445469?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc218d69d&vxp=mtr#ht_5697wt_1396 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-BARK-BASHERS-MOTORCYCLE-GLOSS-CARBON-BRUSH-HANDLE-BAR-HAND-GUARDS-PAIR-/260954445469?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc218d69d&vxp=mtr#ht_5697wt_1396)
OK I'm stoked, just tracked my rear brake rotor. It is out for delivery Woohoo!! that means I will be able to get the bike inspected, titled and tagged early this week. Which means that I can get the tires and seat squared away.
Im sure u have looked into both motorcycle and dirt bike hand guards, have you looked into any Snowmobile handgaurds? My sled has them and they are very very durable in cold weather, so they won't get brittle. Ohh and they are all super inexpensive right now since the winter was not a big snow year. Just a thought for ya.
thanks, I will definitely check into them. I am probably about a week or more out on ordering that stuff. so I have some time to look around.
I received my new stainless rear rotor today, 2 days ahead of schedule. I promptly ripped the rear tire off and mounted it along with the new brake pads that I got last week. Took the bike for a little spin and everything is working perfectly. No starving for fuel like it used to.
I think I may bump the needles up a little more still seems lean in the mid range. Of coarse it is also a very chilly day here so things may change a bit as the temps come up towards summer.
Never received a response from Race Tech about the front fork setup. That's not too confidence inspiring when it comes to purchasing their products.
Hopefully by Wednesday evening you will see pictures of this bike with the new tires and finished seat.
OK so here is the instrument cluster. The PO lost the two colored lenses for the turn indicator and the high beam indicator.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120402_185204.jpg?i=965355782)
I checked online and the only way to get these is to purchase the entire instrument cluster. That's not gonna happen. So I may end up building something custom. Unless I can find another panel that the instruments mount to at a reasonable price.
Unless you guys have an idea..
I check around for a panel mount lens (ones like you see on control panels) and there is really nothing that matches the size of the current design. Another option would be to take LED indicators and replace the entire socket.
Anyway bikes ready to go for inspection on Wednesday morning and then the fun can continue.
apparently adidasguy has a pile of the lenses in green, if you care what color, yours are, youll need to find another source, but really....
my HB indicator went missing, just stuck a circle of blue painters tape over the hole. permanent fix. really.
Yes, you can put in green for turn (which is what newer bikes use) and a red for high beam. I think a blue LED will shine through the green cap but not much through the red. (The caps are not a perfect filter.)
I'm trying to get the cluster from the other parts thread. If he doesn't get back to me I will hit you up for some greens. I currently put a blue and yellow bulb in the turn and HB indicators so the greens will probably work too. But it would be nice to have the whole part to re-finish and put on my bike.
i have a busted bezel from my last pick. i was going to toss it, but i'll check and see what jewels i have. i'll give them to ya for next to nothing
Quote from: Manaenrc on March 31, 2012, 03:49:45 PM
Quote from: NonFiction on March 31, 2012, 02:26:14 PM
I know from experience that a flat fork brace won't fit with a high profile (eg rear dualsport) tire, without some sort of spacer/standoff. Trying to sort that on my own bike ATM. Following the thread, as I'm building something like this too. I say 'building' but I mostly mean, 'thinking about next steps on' my project. :embarassed:
What I did was notch my fender so the front brace mounts on the fork slide into the fender. Then I added longer bolts and brass shims that are about 5/8" to 3/4" thick so this raised the whole works (including brace) that much. From my preliminary measurements it should fit just fine. If not I will just make some thicker shims to raise the whole thing up higher.
Right now I have about 3 1/2" between the fender and the rim. I think I only need about 2 3/4" to clear the tire.
I will find out this coming week when I mount everything after I complete my inspection. I am just waiting on a rear brake rotor and then I can go get it all done. Tracking says it will be here Wednesday
Makes sense. I'd love to see a picture. Haven't done mine yet.
I wonder if there is any way to correct the error in the speedo that will result. Maybe you should go with an adjustable aftermarket speedo anyway?
QuoteMakes sense. I'd love to see a picture. Haven't done mine yet.
When I take the front tire off to mount the new tire I will snap a few shots of what I did. It was very simple took 10 min with a dremel.
Quote from: Manaenrc on April 03, 2012, 12:17:00 PM
QuoteMakes sense. I'd love to see a picture. Haven't done mine yet.
When I take the front tire off to mount the new tire I will snap a few shots of what I did. It was very simple took 10 min with a dremel.
since most stock motorcycle speedometers report too fast I was hoping that it would only be a little off on the slow side. But once I get the tire mounted up I will check it with a GPS. It's not the end of the world unless it would be way off which it won't be because we are only talking a difference of about 2" in Diameter.
Stock tire being 22 1/4" high
New Tire 24" high
That's only about a 7.29% difference which means that if the speed says 55 it will now say about 51.
I have a feeling the speedo is off more than that right now.
Quotei have a busted bezel from my last pick. i was going to toss it, but i'll check and see what jewels i have. i'll give them to ya for next to nothing
cool if you could check it out and let me know that would be awesome.
Yeah, you are probably right about that. Never hurts to contribute ideas to interesting projects ;).
that's the extremely valuable part of doing something like this. I look forward to hearing everyone's ideas it get me thinking in different directions than I could have by myself. Keep the input coming :cheers:
OK made some major progress today.
Started out in the morning with my inspection (revisited) passed with flying colors.
Went to DMV and the bike is now officially in my name and set for the rest of the mods.
As soon as I got home I went right to work on fitting the tires.
Started with the front since I knew it may take more work to get everything to fit.
Here is the front wheel removed and ready to be swapped
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120404102906757.jpg?i=660771891)
Sometimes you need to resort to drastic measures to pop the bead off the rim. Here is an easy way that I found that works every time.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120404103634796.jpg?i=1426647565)
Tire removed and new tire mounted can you see a difference?
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120404110759938.jpg?i=349086839)
OK so I had to raise the fender about 3/4" to clear the new tire. It was very easy and only took 2 notches longer bolts and 8 -3/8" nuts. This is temporary as I want to get a block of aluminum and mill some spacers that look much more polished. I also want to get some stainless hardware. Anyway here is a side shot of the top of the fender, notice how the mount on the fork is recessed into the fender. That is where I had to cut the notches. Just the front 2 had to be notched
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120404110807838.jpg?i=119429158)
here is a shot from the under side of the front fender you can see how the mounting tab is recessed into the fender
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120404110819409.jpg?i=549498000)
After fitting the tire on the front a few times to make sure everything clears I setup my homemade wheel balance Rig. It's not perfect but its always worked well enough. It's basically just two upright brackets and 4 bearings that allows the wheel to free spin. I watch the wheel settle and make a mark on the light side. Then I repeat, if the mark lands on top again I know I need to add some weight to that side, I usually go a 1/4oz at a time.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120404111506160.jpg?i=304406226)
OK so after mounting both tires here is what the bike looks like. I still need to finish my seat (among other things) but it's starting to look more like I imagined it.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120404120638932.jpg?i=768655838)
Here is a quick shot of the front
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120404200546123.jpg?i=1803881905)
the rest of the day was filled with work so I only got to ride to and from a few locations. The bike handles so much differently with the tires in the front. I've never rode a bike with tires that are so close to the same size front to back. It just feels so much different. The bike turns very easy like it know what you want to do.
Now I need to start saving up money and work on those front forks. New seals, springs, oil, and hopefully some gold valves.
Anyway, it's been a long day and it's time to eat some dinner and shoot some insurgents on MW3
nice!! :thumb:
bike looks Soooo much meaner with those tires!
(http://serve.mysmiley.net/happy/happy0064.gif)(http://serve.mysmiley.net/happy/happy0064.gif)(http://serve.mysmiley.net/happy/happy0064.gif)(http://serve.mysmiley.net/happy/happy0064.gif)
That looks FANTASTIC!!! Really loving it!
I have a DRZ, but now i want dirty dual sport GS! haha
How deep in the woods do you plan on taking this thing??
Quote from: steezin_and_wheezin on April 05, 2012, 06:59:59 AM
How deep in the woods do you plan on taking this thing??
Well the jury is still out, I need to get my forks pulled apart and rebuilt. Then get handguards, and get my fork boots on. Then think through some type of engine guard setup.
I think it could go almost anywhere but at a much slower pace then how I used to ride my offroad bikes. This thing will never see big air or heavy rocks. But it feels pretty good
One big difference with this bike is you don't have the low torque to lift the front wheel like on the big singles.
Wow, looks pretty nifty. You must be a pretty big fella to rock the high seat, the raised suspension and the fatty tires and feel comfortable on it. Not do dissimilar to what I'm sort of building on... Keep it up! :thumb:
I wonder what it would take to switch over to a front end from an enduro...hmmm
Quote from: bombsquad83 on April 05, 2012, 02:19:39 PM
I wonder what it would take to switch over to a front end from an enduro...hmmm
Not too much some of the early honda xr's used 37mm forks. Of coarse you could always pull the stem and put almost anything you want on there.
QuoteYou must be a pretty big fella to rock the high seat
6'5" - I felt very much at home on my 37" high XR650L , This bike is way more comfortable on the street of coarse. I can stand flat footed on this the way it is right now.
How close is the front end from a DR650? I've heard that the swingarms are very similar to the GS500, but obviously never looked into it personally.
Quote from: Big Rich on April 05, 2012, 05:19:39 PM
How close is the front end from a DR650? I've heard that the swingarms are very similar to the GS500, but obviously never looked into it personally.
The Dr forks are probably in the 42mm range but that's just a guess. would need to do some research on that.
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interesting...
Bikes with 37mm forks
Honda crf230l - 9" travel
This would prob need heavier spring. But it is a true showa cartridge
Honda elsinor 250 CR 78-89
Honda XL500r 82
Looks like those are the options if you dont want to replace the tripples.
The new cr230l may be the newest and best option. But it would need some stiffer springs and probably revalving to compensate for the 400 pound gs. I would bet that even in stock form it would act better then the stock gs fork. The stock setup is just that bad. Ive added preload to the spring which makes it ok.
I may look into the crf forks some more this may be a viable option.
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If you haven't already put new springs in your stock GS forks, I doubt the layout for the other forks would be much more. This project is going great. Looking forward to see this thing done and plowing through some dirt! Really applaud your ambition.
EDIT: I may be wrong about the cost :(. I looked around on ebay and the only CRF230L part out was asking 250 for each fork. Ouch....
Forgive my ignorance...would these work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/80-Honda-CR125-CR-125-37mm-FRONT-FORKS-SUSPENSION-/350327322839?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item519122b8d7
Quote from: bombsquad83 on April 06, 2012, 07:57:06 AM
Forgive my ignorance...would these work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/80-Honda-CR125-CR-125-37mm-FRONT-FORKS-SUSPENSION-/350327322839?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item519122b8d7
The only problem work a CR 125 would be the weight difference between the bikes. It would really be better to get something a little closer in weight. I found a set of CR 250 forks for 50 bucks. They are cartridge and 37mm. I just need to think about this and determine the pluses and minuses. I may just get progressive springs. Going with different forks would be nice however I would also need to rework the front brakes. The biggest thing would be a mount for the caliper. I already have a design in mind if I decide to pull the trigger.
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Yeah I agree with the brake caliper issue. I was thinking about it too. I have progressives on my bike. They are good for the street for sure. The small amount of travel is definitely not ideal for off road though. It all depends on how far you want to take it, and the cash/time available to get there.
Just thinking out loud here but...
I need to really evaluate why I am building this. My purpose was not to build a bike that will rival an XR650L off road ( I could have just bought one of those). My main reason was to build something that I can use to commute as well as go on camping / fishing trips in remote areas. 98% of the miles will be roads to get to places and then the other 2% will be fire roads maybe something more technical in the WV or northern PA areas. I have adjusted the pre-load on the spring and the front end is much improved. I noticed that this bike seems to be over damped and under sprung. With limited travel the dampning is probably on par.
Facts of Stock forks
1) Much less work to fixup
2) will never shine offroad
3) It is currently well balanced with the sv650 shock I have in the back
4) Could probably get a progessive and new seals and it will be great on street and passable offroad
5) Would be less expensive to stick with it
6) Currently set at it's height limit and will never go higher
Facts of XL500 or CR250 shock
1) 2" to 3" more travel then stock
2) custom axle design to fit stock wheel
3) custom caliper mount for disk brakes
4) custom spacers for axle
5) Need to get longer brake lines
6) need a longer speedo cable
7) Would have much better dampening
8) cartridge forks are just way easier to dial in for the bike.
9) The rear sv650 shock will never match the front which would mean that I would have to swap that too for something more offroad.
The more I think about it I may just stick with the stock setup. I am pretty happy with the current setup and how this thing is handling. I'll probably regret it and maybe in the future I will look for more options. Before I went out and bought the seals, springs, and oil for the stock setup I needed to think through this.
So you have progressives, how would you describe the difference compared to the stock springs? and would you do the upgrade again?
Unfortunately I can't speak to the difference when upgrading because the bike I bought already had the progressives in it. Glad you took the time to think through things. I think it will work out just fine for what you want it to do with the upgraded springs. If it doens't, you can always sell your forks with progressives to someone on the board if you decide to change it. :thumb:
OK so I put over 200 miles on the bike this weekend.
160 on friday commuting into the city.
After this ride I adjusted the pre-load on the front springs these things will definitely need to go. And I had to put a chain on the bike as it had the stock chain and had one spot that was very bad. Oddly the rest of the chain was still good I get the feeling the bike was sitting under a cover outside with part of the chain exposed to the weather. I cannot believe how smooth the new chain is.
Anyway today it's kinda nice and my daughter asked to go for a ride so I thought it would be a great opportunity to break in the chain and test my suspension changes.
I had the chain a little tight and made the necessary changes then went for a ride
After riding about 55miles with mostly backroads and some western Maryland dirt mountain roads I am very happy with how the bike ran.
Took a few shots along the way.
Here we are on top of a mountain in southern PA
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120408162105553.jpg?i=1330006968)
Here's another shot from the same dirt road. It was about 10 miles worth of two track and single track. It reminded me that I really need to build some engine guards for this bike.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120408162115882.jpg?i=625624667)
Almost at the end I stopped by the local creek to take in the bueaty of the day, and another shot of the bike LOL...
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120408165819940.jpg?i=1663932443)
So after many miles I can say that
1) the bike performed great
2) the tires never slipped once off road it felt very confidence inspiring, even in very loose stones just feels great!
3) The front springs are just too soft
4) I need to finish molding the seat now that I know I am sticking with the stock shocks.
I am jealous.
I imagine progressives are your best bet, they are initially pretty soft on the bike i rode with them, but get nice and stiff to prevent you from bottoming out and stressing the steering tube and bearings.
(If you've ever seen the gif of a guy jumping a virago (i think) and the front end separating from the bike, try and find it, its good :D )
You said you might be doing emulators? I think progs and gold valves might be as perfect as you can get without buying a whole new bike. (or re-inventing the wheel on the front end.)
VIDEOOOOO
Will try to get some video. Hopefully it won't be as dramatic as the one your talking about. I have a feeling the Gs frame is a bit more stout than the virago. Plus it weighs about 150 lbs less. Will probably wait to shot video until I get the forks rebuilt.
Thanks for the advice on springs and gold valves. I will probably do it in stages.
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haha, no rush, though one must appease the peanut gallery.
and yes, these things are pretty tough, i certainly don't think you'll have a failure of that magnitude, I was just having the old train o thought derail at the time.
I'm doing the stage thing with my bike as well, so far, i've spent under 200 bucks getting it all mechanically snazzy. (Mostly because i'm poor/cheap/have to take the old lady to dinner sometimes...) That will go out the window when the new tires need to be purchased.
Now, I just want it to look as nice as yours. :icon_mrgreen:
Thanks, I'm glad you like it so far. I realize this is a really nitch thing most people will probably say that I am ruining the gs. But those of us who want to adventure tour I think this bike really is a great platform for it.
ruining the gs?
nahhhhhh!
FAR FARRRRR from it I say!
all you are doing is altering the bike to the point where you can safely ride off road right?
thats alot more respectable then someone chopping the frame up for visual reasons.
I was able to get out for another ride yesterday with a friend. We wandered down a trail with a creek crossing. I wanted to ride across however I had my good cloths on and was meeting some people later that day. So unfortunately I had to refrain from any such activities.
But I think I just found the place where I will shoot my video :D
Anyway the ride was awesome, but it really did accent how much I need to order that new front spring. I was easily able to bottom the forks when I pushed the bike a little harder. I am going to try to order all my suspension stuff this week.
This is a shot of my friends bike and mine. He has a very sweet Honda NX650. Honda should have hit a home run with this bike but the U.S. just was not ready for it. The design was ahead of it's time. Other countries grasped the design and it sold well, in fact is still selling. Oh well, our loss
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120409145814931.jpg?i=168685473)
nice photo!!
i'm with tomb.. ruining the gs?? nahhhh!
THIS (http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/attachments/new-rider-forums/144686d1197222623-gs500f-pict0197custom.jpg)is ruining a gs haha yours is insanely awesome!
I'm loving the direction you took. Although it makes my drz with supermoto tires feel funny
Quote from: steezin_and_wheezin on April 10, 2012, 06:35:15 AM
nice photo!!
i'm with tomb.. ruining the gs?? nahhhh!
THIS (http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/attachments/new-rider-forums/144686d1197222623-gs500f-pict0197custom.jpg)is ruining a gs haha yours is insanely awesome!
I'm loving the direction you took. Although it makes my drz with supermoto tires feel funny
LOL. I want a picture of the DRZ400-SM next to the GS500 with knobbies. That would be classic.
One thing I noticed yesterday was something I didn't think about. I always assumed the front 17" tire would be a huge disadvantage. However after comparing the 17 with the large tire to the 21 on the NX which has a typical narrow front. The GS gives up little in height difference.
One other point to note is the tires have been working great. I didn't even have to seal them internally to use them without tubes. I have been checking them and they are not loosing any air. Plus the beads really locked well on the tubeless rims they worked out better then I could have expected.
I will see if I can head over to the local bike shop on a nice day to get a comparison shot of the drz sm. Of coarse it looks like the weather has turned for the next few days
Unless you are in the north east then maybe we can schedule a ride sometime...
OK so back to the project...
Things I want to accomplish this week.
1) order fork seals, oil, and springs
2) order my hand guards (wind blew over my bike the other day and bent my clutch no big deal but I need to protect those levers)
3) take those silly nuts out of the front fender and build some aluminum spacers and get stainless bolts
4) still need to finish the seat shape
and the saga continues...
Man, that's awesome. :bowdown:
ugh!
thread is making me Sooo jealous! hahahaha
Because there is Soooo many trails, forests, farm land, etc etc here in north east Pa.
pretty much every single type of area an off road vehicle thrives on!
Think I might need to start looking at a dual sport bike when I get finished with mine.
I honestly have been entertaining the thought quite a bit lately because of this thread and because of the area I live in.
I actually dont know what I see more of around here.
off road vehicles or street bikes.
its pretty close
(edit)
was going to ask for a list of everything needed to take these suckers off road but noticed your initial post is already in the process of it.
wondering now tho.
what it all takes to make these suckers able to be taken off road safely?
already got a Kat 600 rear shock.
and progressive fork springs wth fresh 15W oil.
as far as upgrading the suspension for my 6ft2 235pnd butt!
Would I just basically need another set of rims and proper off road tires to hit the dirt?
and im talking, just riding on some trails.
not going buck wild like these ppl do around here on dirt bikes! haha
and most def some engine guards.
no idea here as off road is unknown territory for me.
The problem with that question is only you know the type of offroad riding you're going to do. For some that may mean just a set of better gripping tires. After all the gs is probably already superior to offroad bikes from the early 70's. To me it means higher suspension for clearance and to fit my height better. Also the stronger springs means better bottoming resistance. Hand guards and engine guards are a must(northeast rocks nuff said). Eventually I will be adding a set of panniers, something removable. I don't know about the Kat shock but the sv650 is much taller and the spring is much heavier. I also think dust boots for the forks is a must to keep the seals from wearing rapidly from dirt.
As long a you realize this is a heavy bike that must be used at a moderate speed offroad everything is great. However if you try to push the gs too far it can quickly turn bad. one other step I recommend is to treat all electrical connections with dielectric grease to eliminate electrical issues caused by water and dirt. That should actually be done on every bike...
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OK SO I was going to order all my fork supplies this week, Unfortunately my truck needs a complete brake job before a fishing trip to Maine. So I had to use the money that was set aside for my forks for 4 rotors and pads for my truck. I need to get on eBay and start selling some more stuff to get the bike project going again. At least I have it to a point where I can enjoy it somewhat. Hopefully by the end of this week I can scrape some money together to place the order of parts.
In the mean time I am waiting on some orings to replace all the old ones in the carbs. I really don't like the crappy float seat design in these carbs. If the o-rings start to go bad there is nothing stopping fuel from bypassing the entire seat and flooding the carb. Just a very bad design IMHO. The best design is still the seat that is threaded into the carb body with a fiber seal, It just lasts forever. Anyway I took a gamble and ordered the metric oring kit from harbor freight. I figured even if I cannot find one that fits the seat, the entire 290 piece kit cost me the same as one of the carb orings, and I can use them on other applications/projects.
Let me know how that O-ring kit from HF works out. I have been thinking of buying it.
this is a really good idea....i was just out trying to explore the fire areas of SW VA and many roads turned into forest service roads(dirt/gravel)...i had to turn away many times after considering the safety of street tires for off road...
First off, I just want to say I love what you are doing with the GS. I have always thought about doing something like this, but didn't attempt because I have a faired F model and thought the pegs were too far back for a good dual sport conversion.
That NX650 is nice. I have one myself, although no longer with the distinctive fairing that defines it (bad crash). Tell your friend to put in a Hagon rear shock and some progressives up front to make the bike useful off road. Stock suspension loves to bottom out.
Also, for those who don't think you can do some decent off road with street tires, as long as the terrain isn't super muddy or steep hill climbs over roots you can do a lot with a street tire.
Example:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaYz8Si7hyA&feature=player_embedded
yes, one of the crashes in the end, but they were obviously going as fast as they could.
I have taken my full faired GS off road, even doing some stream crossings and riding on snow. Just go slow.
Good example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbknohGJL-Y
Adventure bike with full fairing hmmmm.. Yeah I guess that might get a little expensive on layovers. I will definitely tell him about the springs and shock .
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BTW those videos are awesome. That one with you riding is sweet!! reminds me of the area I grew up riding in central PA with a bunch of coal mines...
Updates to the progress coming soon.. Lets just say I have a few things on order :woohoo: :woohoo:
Quote from: Bluesmudge on April 12, 2012, 10:12:29 PM
First off, I just want to say I love what you are doing with the GS. I have always thought about doing something like this, but didn't attempt because I have a faired F model and thought the pegs were too far back for a good dual sport conversion.
That NX650 is nice. I have one myself, although no longer with the distinctive fairing that defines it (bad crash). Tell your friend to put in a Hagon rear shock and some progressives up front to make the bike useful off road. Stock suspension loves to bottom out.
Also, for those who don't think you can do some decent off road with street tires, as long as the terrain isn't super muddy or steep hill climbs over roots you can do a lot with a street tire.
Example:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaYz8Si7hyA&feature=player_embedded
yes, one of the crashes in the end, but they were obviously going as fast as they could.
I have taken my full faired GS off road, even doing some stream crossings and riding on snow. Just go slow.
Good example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbknohGJL-Y
Thats looks so familiar, it looks like the tac mines where i work.
OK so here are the parts that I have on order.
1) set of progressive springs
2) new fork seals
3) fork gators
4) brush guards
5) new front turn signals (more on this later)
Ok so I have been really liking the way ducati has the turn signals integrated into the hand guards on thier hypermotard. So I got the hair brained idea to attempt something like this also.
I ordered a set of these
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/436618192_o.jpg?i=949435204)
And I an going to try to fit a set of these right on the front of them and eliminate the floppy ear stock turn signals
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/y134_2.jpg?i=1676358173)
By my rough estimate they should fit fine. and they are only about 1/2" thick and about 6" long and about 1" high. So if these lights don't fit then I will need to find something else or custom fabricate something to fit.
SO beside replacing the entire braking system on my truck. I decided to flush the brakes on the bike as well. both front and back got fresh DOT 4. The back was not too bad however the front looked like it was filled with green goo. I have not had a chance to ride it yet but I am sure the brakes will be much improved.
Hopefully the parts will be in this week and I can start to get everything replaced, rebuilt, and in prime condition.
Oh well back to work....
(http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u400/knowles02/handguards.jpg) these are the ones that i got for my gs seem to work fine with the wind but wouldn't do much on a fall, or bigger branch. i also painted the aluminum black and used longer black screws to hold it on the the bars.
Yeah I looked at those ones for snowmobile and atv, but I need something that will protect the controls from a fall or trees. These will probably not be as good of a wind block, but with the aluminum bar embedded in them they should hold up well in a drop.
Have you stood up on it yet? When i stand up on mine it just feels likes its miles below me. Does the seat and mx bars help?
Quote from: dropitlow88 on April 15, 2012, 11:50:59 AM
Have you stood up on it yet? When i stand up on mine it just feels likes its miles below me. Does the seat and mx bars help?
Yeah the seat does help. Frankly at 6' 5" every bike feels miles below me. But the higher bars and higher seat do help
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Where did you find fork gators that fit the GS stock forks? I've been wanting a pair for so long!
Those came from summit racing. They cost about 14$ with shipping. When I get back to my computer I will post a link to them.
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Thanks! Once you do, I'm gonna order a pair!
Can't wait to see all those new parts installed and the final seat shaping done. Gotta see pics when you are done with that. :cool:
You know, it's funny I found those boots on ebay and purchased them for like $10. Now when I search I still find some but summit pulled the ones that I bought.
Here are the ones I purchased (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11400.m1842.l3160/7?euid=7d4c639a756143158a5b3fa7956a1532&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D330710098838%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AL%3AOC%3AUS%3A3160)
However if you do some searching you should be able to pickup the ones for the CB450 pretty cheap. They had a 35mm fork however all boots are made to fit a range of forks, so they stretch pretty well.
Here is an example of what I am talking about
Click Here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB450-CL450-Scrambler-CB500-Front-Fork-Boots-/360446655202?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53ec4b7ae2&vxp=mtr)
Did the ones you get replace the stock dust seals or do they fit over top of them?
Dust seals always stay under the boots since the boots are not completely sealed. All gators have holes to let the air out as the boot compresses. These hole can let dust through so you still need to have the scraper to be the final barrier to protect the seals.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
Just got the seals and the boots, now I need to get the springs and I will be ready to fix my fork problem. I've also installed the handguards (they came yesterday) I will have a pic soon. I am not sure I am really liking the fake carbon look, so they may get a coat of black to match the bike. I measured up for the LED turn signals and they should fit, although it might be a little tight.
Here are the fork gators and seals waiting for thier big brother Mr. Springs to arrive... (OK... OK... maybe I need to step away from this for a while)
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120417_102146.jpg?i=854120323)
OK this is gonna be a big update, I did a lot yesterday and this morning.
OK so yesterday started out pretty calm. I received my fork boots and seals and also received the o-ring kit from harbor freight. I was busy with work in the morning so was not able to tear the carbs out for an o-ring replacement.
Midway through the day I got a call from my friend that he was going to go look at a car and wanted to also go for a ride after. Any excuse to go for a ride is a good excuse for me so we met up and headed out.
After checking out a few cages he had enough and we headed north into the Caledonia state forest. There are miles and miles of un-maintained dirt roads just ripe for exploration. As you can see by the photo
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120417170527424.jpg?i=1505783085)
So after riding about 10miles out on this dirt road we both decided that we should probably turn back and head for home. Almost immediately I heard what sounded like something metal hitting my fender. Seconds after I started to feel that loose feeling of a flat tire on the rear. Since we were about 30 miles from anything I decided to at least try to ride it the 10 miles to the black top. I started to think about the lack of tubes in my tires and if this would cause any issues. I kept it under 25mph for the 10 mile trek and made it fine without running the tire off the bead. Everything held up great and I put all the worries of running these tube tires tubeless on tubeless rims.
Here is a shot after the 10 miles of dirt
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120417174952197.jpg?i=187552933)
OK so my buddy went to go grab a can of fix-a-flat so we can hopefully inflate this thing. In the mean time I started to look over the tire and found a typical nail/screw size hole right between the treads. When I saw that I started to worry that the fix-a-goo stuff would not be able to plug such a large hole and started wishing for cell coverage to call my friend and have him grab a plug kit too.
No such luck so I took a few mountain flower pictures while I waited LOL... :cookoo:
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120417181907901.jpg?i=2039005246)
He finally returned after about 45minutes with the can of fix-a-flat, while I was waiting I found a small screw in my tank bag to help plug the hole. At first I tried to just use the FAF but it was aparent that I just created a geyser of FAF from my tire. So I inserted the screw into the hole and used most of the can to inflate the tire to about 15psi. I quickly jumped on the bike and hit the pavement. I was riding on the tank to try to get most of the weight off of the back tire. Well 3/4 of the way to the closest gas station it was aparent that the screw had flew out and I had no air left. I went around this hard right turn and sure enough the left side bead popped of the rim. This was after about 4 miles of the drunkest looking riding you've ever seen (at least thats how it felt).
Anyway with no air, and no way to get the bead back on the rim my mind started racing for solutions. I tried to call a few friends with trailers to no avail. Then I decided to take my friends bike the rest of the way to the gas station and hope they had the makings of some kind of solution.
Anyway here is what I found. Those of you who are mechanics know what all this adds up to. And maybe those of you who watch myth busters.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120418105201673.jpg?i=1274488618)
Yes, sports fans.... I would use the lighter fluid and lighter to blow the tire back onto the bead. I have done this many times in the past but never on the bike. I had visions of sacrificing my hard work on the side of the road to the motorcycle gods as my bike went up in flames.
First 2 attempts failed because I still had the weight of the bike on the tire. So we found a stick long enough to prop the back wheel off the ground. and the next attempt succeeded with a miraculous ball of fire and loud poof, but the tire was back on. My friend quickly injected the last can of FAF into the tire and the plug and bead were holding well. God is good, and off we went. The trip home was pretty much un-eventful
Here is a picture of the plug this morning. Air is holding well and I have no concerns with the reliability of the tire
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120418105323587.jpg?i=291990651)
So here are the o-ring kits that I ordered from harbor frieght. I am very impressed with them since both together cost less then 20$ with shipping.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120418094725727.jpg?i=1064602854)
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120418094814823.jpg?i=839773081)
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120418094823423.jpg?i=406609696)
So this morning I got up early to pull the carbs apart and try these o-rings.
I was able to find orings from both the kits that fit every part of the carb. Unfortunately it took both kits. The choke tube required an oring from the large kit. The float seat used one from the small kit. and the top vacuum port used an oring from the small kit as well. The hardest one to match up was the choke tube. It has a very thin o-ring. What I ended up doing was to use a smaller fatter o-ring but I stretched it over the choke tube which made it thinner (this was the smallest one from the large kit). After that brainstorm the choke fit perfectly.
Here is the choke tube with the old o-ring and new o-ring
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120418095948012.jpg?i=282418728)
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120418101744662.jpg?i=570677229)
Here is the seats with the new orings these fit perfectly note the old stretched one below on the left compared to the new on the lower right.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120418100607088.jpg?i=1319332364)
BTW before I re-assembled the seats i made sure to polish them really well with a paper towel until they shine. This provides the best seal to the rubber needle.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120418095933485.jpg?i=1221720005)
As I was writing this my springs just arrived :woohoo:
Now I need to finish this work so I can go and install them. check back soon for much improved spring bliss....
What size from the kit did you use for each o-ring? Did you think about replacing the o-ring that is under the white slide support piece?
Oh and by the way...nice improvisation on fixing the tire. Did this experience make you think about putting tubes in?
Nice to see you got it back home, I have used those tire plugs on three of the four of my truck tires, lasted as long as the time did, and the holes where put in them about a month after i got them new.
Quote from: bombsquad83 on April 18, 2012, 10:09:55 AM
What size from the kit did you use for each o-ring? Did you think about replacing the o-ring that is under the white slide support piece?
Oh and by the way...nice improvisation on fixing the tire. Did this experience make you think about putting tubes in?
actually quite the opposite. I am very impressed with how the tires stayed on the rims with no air after all I drove a total of about 15 to 20 miles until the tire came off going around the hard corner. most of that was done with little to no air pressure. If I would have had tubes I would have had to unmount the wheel, tire and tube. Patch the tube and remount the tube, wheel, and tire. Sure I wouldnt have needed to blow my tire up to seat the bead. However in the future I will have an air source and the plug kit so hopefully I wont need to drive on a flat tire in the first place.
When I used tubes offroad I always had a set of tire bars, patches and co2 inflator. It was a pain to pull the wheel in the dirt and fix the tube. That was the reason I ran techtubes in my race bike. The very first enduro I rode I ended up riding half the race with a flat front tire. Those tech tubes are awesome for off road, no air needed and they are always the perfect 15psi feel.
Orings I used are as follows
4 x 1mm - top vacuum port - this is just the right thickness
5.8 x 1.9mm - was the seat
2.8 x 1.9mm - this was the float circuit, it had to be stretched over I heated them slightly after ripping the first one. This made them stretch right on.
Forks Update:
I just ripped my one fork apart only to realize that I am an idiot and ordered the wrong fork seals. So now I am going to take the other fork apart and clean it to get it ready to re-assemble friday morning when the new seals come.
Jeesh without a bike for 2 days how will I deal LOL... :cry:
OK well since I am waiting for fork seals I thought I would post a few pictures I took of the process.
Here are the forks removed from the bike and ready to be torn down.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120418132740961.jpg?i=534974236)
Ahhh the smell of freshly opened parts. Most places online sell these for about $80 however there is a spring sale going on right now at www.jcmotors.com thier price is 58.62 so if you need some get them now!!
Anyway here is what's in the box..
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120418151947986.jpg?i=481730877)
OK and just for comparison. The stock springs on the right. They should have been pink because they look like something from a barbie car. The properly sized progressives are on the left. The only negative about the progressives is the added weight over the stock springs that fell like they were made of plastic. But I know the positives will outweigh any addition of heft.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120418152041043.jpg?i=386463178)
new seals should be here tomorrow and then I can get everything put back together.
Brilliant stuff mate! Tried asking about those tyres and they dont ship to the UK! Not to worry!
The build is looking so good now. Sorry to hear about the puncture, but you seem to have got it nailed! (see what I did there!?)
Just a word of warning , I had a pair of rubber boots on my forks and they actually caused slight rusting. The rubber let water in (or condesation?) and wouldnt let it out at the bottom I guess. Lucky I only had them on for a month or so.....
I'd opt for the plastic ones. :)
Quote from: mysterious_rider on April 23, 2012, 08:05:59 AM
Brilliant stuff mate! Tried asking about those tyres and they dont ship to the UK! Not to worry!
The build is looking so good now. Sorry to hear about the puncture, but you seem to have got it nailed! (see what I did there!?)
Just a word of warning , I had a pair of rubber boots on my forks and they actually caused slight rusting. The rubber let water in (or condesation?) and wouldnt let it out at the bottom I guess. Lucky I only had them on for a month or so.....
I'd opt for the plastic ones. :)
thanks bro, I will definitely keep an eye on the forks, don't want any rusted chrome. I should have an update today as time permits. I didn't get as much done over the weekend as I wanted due to some bug that I picked up. I am back on the horse today but have many work things to take care of so the update may happen later this afternoon.
Some quick updates things I finished on Friday (pictures and more details later)
1)Forks back together and working brilliantly. The bike sits much more level with no nose dive. The stock 3/4" preload is almost perfect. I stuck with the stock 10wt oil for now and want to see how it work offroad. I don't want to over damp the forks (especially rebound). I set the oil level to the max to increase bottoming resistance but we will see how things work soon. Been raining and snowing most of the weekend and with my illness I have not been eager to get out and test things offroad.
2) started building a custom flyscreen for those longer trips. This is a convertable/ expandable idea I got from one of those honda motorized screens on a goldwing. I thought why wouldn't this same thing work well with a flyscreen that could manually slide into itself for normal riding, then be pulled up for highway trips. I am 80% through the design and only need to build some mounts for it. but more details to come.
3) Carbs are still causing some issues I am starting to think one of the PO's messed with some parts trying to make them better. I suspect the CV slide springs are not stock and causing some weird issues. I am getting a strange flutter which I believe is due to weak slide springs. They even bounce during idle which is really odd to me. So I suspect he did some drilling or made some changes that are causing this issue. Or maybe this carb setup is just crappy and would explain the 3 jet setup on the later year carbs. For now mid range is an issue but I will concur this problem. Even if I need to start changing things out. I have a set of stiffer CV springs from an EX500 I had years ago I may give them a try to see if it will eliminate the CV flutter, or maybe just add some preload to the CV springs. I may also start to play with different needle tapers to see if I can get rid of the problem.
I have a set of stock carb springs and slides if you need them.
Quote from: bombsquad83 on April 23, 2012, 09:54:13 AM
I have a set of stock carb springs and slides if you need them.
would it be possible to post a picture of the springs. I am curious what yours look like in comparison to mine.
Thanks...
Sure. I'll take a picture of them next to a ruler tonight.
You can see one of them in this picture.
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii224/dtilford/GS500/a3d7335b.jpg)
awesome thanks for those. can you include the needles in with the springs when they are next to a ruler. By that picture it looks like my springs may be the same. They seem very weak (too weak) which makes the CV open way too early. This really messes with the vacuum inside the carb when the throttle is opened. The whole point of a CV was to eliminate that vacuum loss when the throttle is snapped open and smooth out the vacuum curve. This in turn is supposed to deliver a very stable power delivery. It seems as though this carb is doing exactly what a CV is not supposed to do. I'm going to play with some preload on the springs and see if I can clean this up without making power delivery tame. I need the snappiness without the vacuum bog on throttle opening, and the dancing slides on idle.
The pictures will be helpful if you can get them thanks..
Should be easy to tell if your jet needle is stock. It should read 5DH8 up by the clip. The needle jet (emulsion tube) should read O-3. I will include them in the photo though.
Quote from: bombsquad83 on April 23, 2012, 12:14:28 PM
Should be easy to tell if your jet needle is stock. It should read 5DH8 up by the clip. The needle jet (emulsion tube) should read O-3. I will include them in the photo though.
awesome that is exactly what I needed. I couldn't find a reference to the stock needle or jet number anywhere on google. That gives me a starting point to work from.
OK so I have a few minutes I figured I would post some more details about this custom flyscreen that I am designing. The goal was to take two pieces of lexan(yes the stuff that is 200 times stronger then glass) and mold it into a two piece flyscreen that would slide together for normal riding then extend for faster (windier) rides.
So I started by purchasing two small sheets of lexan at home depot they cost about 3.50 ea
I also purchased some rubber washers and nylon washers for the sliding setup. The grand total was a whopping 13 bucks woo hoo I'm a big spender if this works it will be the cheapest flyscreen on the planet (well next to a piece of cardboard and duct tape LOL)
Here is the parts laid out from home depot
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120420_120903.jpg?i=1060145722)
Here are the two templates I made and the two peices of lexan already cut and ready to be molded to the right radius.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120420150625248.jpg?i=1143301076)
So as with all thermoplastics all you need is some heat and something to mold it on and you are in buisiness. Unfortunately I didn't take into account how difficult lexan is to heat evenly. This is some tough stuff and it requires a very even heat. I have done stuff like this in the past and used my heat gun It didn't work to well for the lexan. Here is a shot of how I thought I was going to heat the lexan and use my round smoker to get the proper radius.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120420151103768.jpg?i=242909193)
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120420151119728.jpg?i=1461021815)
This worked sort of, however after about 20 minutes of heating I realized I needed a better heat source. Then it hit me Duh! I have an oven that is the perfect setup, I just needed to come up with a way to get my radius mold into my oven. My first attempt was to use a round pot. It worked great but was slightly too tight of a radius. So I ended up with a piece of aluminum flashing that was bent onto the wire oven rack to the correct radius. You need to use about 325 to 350 to mold lexan. I put the piece in the oven as it was heating up to allow the plastic to slowly come up to temperature. Lexan is funny it holds it's shape until the last few degrees before it starts to become pliable. It is a very unique plastic, unlike plexiglass there is a fine window between hot enough to mold and too hot that it scorches. I ended up with a few small scorches in my peice. If I had to do it again I would probably end up with much better results.
here is the molded flashing on the oven rack.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120423_134913.jpg)
Here are the two pieces with a semi finished shape.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120420164302770.jpg)
I had some lens darkening spray that I wanted to add as a middle coat so the backside of the lexan is dark. I lightly buffed with 600 grit and coated the front side of the flyscreen.
here is the lens coating.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120420164312465.jpg)
Here are the flyscreens coated and waiting to dry
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120420164447778.jpg)
I was going to go with just the darkening coat, but I didn't like the way that it shined so I decided to cover the front with 3M di noc material that I had from another project. This stuff is very durable and goes on easily, this is the carbon finish di noc
Here are the flyscreens coated and ready for a final baking
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120423_110431.jpg)
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120423_110443.jpg)
OK so you can kinda tell from the last images that the radius is a little tight. Well the nice thing with thermalplastics is they can be re-molded again and again. So here I am putting them into the oven to open up the radius and to bake on the di noc to ensure that it is permanently adhered to the lexan. This is not required with di noc since it is peel and stick however I've noticed that using a heat gun to put it on make it stick so much better. (I used this to cover and protect a laptop that I have and it worked awesome)
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/20120423_135215.jpg)
As soon as I have time I will be assembling them together and figuring out the mounts which should not be too difficult.
Cool project with the fly screen.
Those springs are cheap parts. Only $5 each new from the dealer. I'd send both for $5 shipped if you need them.
As promised. Looks like the springs are about 3 3/4" long.
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii224/dtilford/GS500/a0c2e539.jpg)
Quote from: bombsquad83 on April 23, 2012, 04:41:04 PM
As promised. Looks like the springs are about 3 3/4" long.
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii224/dtilford/GS500/a0c2e539.jpg)
Perfect thanks. Hey one more thing can you post a pic of the stock CV slide holes for comparison.
Sent from my Android World using tapatalk
Here you go...click to enlarge.
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii224/dtilford/GS500/39a5ac6d.jpg)
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii224/dtilford/GS500/55c533d2.jpg)
OK So everything in the carb is stock at this point. I've ordered a set of 5L1 needles which should help with the mid range issues. I am also going to play with both jets to dial this thing in a bit more. The 5L1 needle is a little longer then the 5DH8 but it has multiple clip slots for adjustment. The taper on the end of the 5L1 is much more dramatic which will greatly improve the midrange lean issue.
The reason I did this is because I took my stock needles and added a 3deg taper to the end. This gave me much improved throttle response so I ordered an adjustable set that is close to what I did on the stock set since they will be more exact then what I could do with a drill and mic and 600grit. With the multiple clip slots I will be able to dial them in much better as well.
Great progress!!! :cheers:
Can't wait to see the shield idea!
I have a question. Does the increased angle of the rear swing arm increase the pressure and thus wear rate on the nylon chain guide?
QuoteI have a question. Does the increased angle of the rear swing arm increase the pressure and thus wear rate on the nylon chain guide?
That was part of why I drilled the second hole on the sv650 shock I didn't like how the chain was angled when the suspension was extended all the way up. I think I am sitting at about the maximum height without modifying the chain guide setup.
This morning I finished the mount for my flyscreen and then put another 200 miles on the bike today. First off the flyscreen is great on the highway. There are times when a big gust of wind will hit you but the force against my body is greatly reduced. The wind for the most part (with the extension up) goes around my body. It hits me now at my upper chest/neck area. I put my hand up in front of my stomach and can feel almost no air pushing my hand. This is a big improvement from having no protection at all. Don't get me wrong it's not like driving a goldwing but then again this is a "real" bike that you ride (maybe in 20 years I will look at that comment differently).
Things I noted after the ride
1) I think I may add about another 1/4" of preload to the forks.
2) I may go up a setup on the main jet from 127 to 130 seem a little lean on top.
OK so here is an updated picture with the handgaurd, fork gators, and flyscreen (turn signals are on the slow boat from china)
This photo is with the flyscreen in it's down position
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120425182948491.jpg)
This is with the flyscreen up in the "highway" position
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120425183007987.jpg)
Quote from: cheetahman on April 25, 2012, 09:57:26 AM
I have a question. Does the increased angle of the rear swing arm increase the pressure and thus wear rate on the nylon chain guide?
Yes.A drip oiler or more frequent chain lubing will slow it down a little.I lube my chain every 300 miles but mine is wearing fairly fast.I have a Kat 750 shock cranked up to the max preload.I have lost almost half of a new chain guide in 6500 miles.
Quote from: Manaenrc on April 25, 2012, 04:51:11 PM
QuoteI have a question. Does the increased angle of the rear swing arm increase the pressure and thus wear rate on the nylon chain guide?
That was part of why I drilled the second hole on the sv650 shock I didn't like how the chain was angled when the suspension was extended all the way up. I think I am sitting at about the maximum height without modifying the chain guide setup.
This morning I finished the mount for my flyscreen and then put another 200 miles on the bike today. First off the flyscreen is great on the highway. There are times when a big gust of wind will hit you but the force against my body is greatly reduced. The wind for the most part (with the extension up) goes around my body. It hits me now at my upper chest/neck area. I put my hand up in front of my stomach and can feel almost no air pushing my hand. This is a big improvement from having no protection at all. Don't get me wrong it's not like driving a goldwing but then again this is a "real" bike that you ride (maybe in 20 years I will look at that comment differently).
Things I noted after the ride
1) I think I may add about another 1/4" of preload to the forks.
2) I may go up a setup on the main jet from 127 to 130 seem a little lean on top.
OK so here is an updated picture with the handgaurd, fork gators, and flyscreen (turn signals are on the slow boat from china)
This photo is with the flyscreen in it's down position
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120425182948491.jpg)
This is with the flyscreen up in the "highway" position
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120425183007987.jpg)
Man, that's slick! You should market them.
So I have been giving more thought to the engine guard setup. I was going to build an aluminum pan to protect the engine. however the more I think through this I think I am going to create a protector out of tube steel. This will have a few advantages over the pan but the major advantage is cooling.
With the headers running under the engine I would be concerned with heat retention. So I figure going with a tube type guard will allow much more airflow around the headers. I could tie these in with the side guards that I am going to build and hopefully end up with something that doesn't look like I just slapped a roll cage on my bike. But I am most concerned with protecting the engine from a fall or whatever object decides to fly it's way.
Just received a delivery of needles, No I am not a crack addict, although I have been accused of being a crackpot :cookoo:
anyway I though I would post a picture of what the new needles look like. For those struggling with mid range issues these will be a great cure for the midrange blues.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/camerazoom-20120427160251608.jpg)
Very interested to see this engine guard, and to see how those needles work out for you.
OK so I had some time to work on the carb tune last night and this morning. Since the new needles are longer by 8mm then stock I ended up putting the clip in the bottom slot, keeping the nylon spacer and adding 2 washers. Eventually I may mill a few more adjustment slots into the needles so I can eliminate the washers .
The idle jets are 43's (yes that is custom), and the mains are 127's
Why 43's?
because I tried 40 and it was still a little lean on the roll off idle. So I drilled them out to 43.
For those who don't know, mikuni jet numbers correspond to tenths of millimeters. So when you're talking about a jet number 40 it means the opening is .40mm diameter. Same goes for main jets, a #127 main measures 1.27mm in diameter. Armed with this information you can customize your jets to any size that specifically matches the application. Home shop racers have been doing this for years. Yes it is easier to buy the jets you need. But since I already had the spare set of 37.5's from another project I drilled them to 40, then finally to 43. You can even go back if you know how to solder but this is not the place for that tutorial.
Anyway back to our regular scheduled project....
It is a bit cool right now so I kept the needle roll on (throttle roll on) a bit lean. When the temps warm up I may add another washer to the needles. But I need to wait for a warmer day to tell whether I need to do this. With the thinner tips on these needles WOT is about perfect all the way to redline so I won't need to change the main jets (at least until I make some exhaust mods)
I need to get a few more miles on the bike to really feel out the 1/8 through 3/4 throttle mixture. And I don't want to get too excited right now due to the super cool temps we are having.
So as a summary here is the details of the setup I have right now (YMMV)
K&N drop in filter
Stock exhaust
Pilot Jet #43
Main Jet #127
Needle #5L1
Needle settings - Bottom clip w/ stock nylon washer + 2 spacer washers each
QuoteWhy 43's?
because I tried 40 and it was still a little lean on the roll off idle. So I drilled them out to 43.
another way to help a stumbly roll off idle is to raise or lower the float height. it can be stumbly for both over-rich and over-lean.
Quote from: Funderb on April 29, 2012, 07:30:53 PM
QuoteWhy 43's?
because I tried 40 and it was still a little lean on the roll off idle. So I drilled them out to 43.
another way to help a stumbly roll off idle is to raise or lower the float height. it can be stumbly for both over-rich and over-lean.
that's a great point, I've got my float height set almost to the upper range. So I figured I would just increase the pilot which was ok since this bike seems to have a rather lean idle circuit. Even with the 43's I still have my mixture screws 3 turns out. been super busy so I have not had time to play around to much with it. Hopefully tomorrow I will have some time to try things out some more. Im getting real close to where I want to be. Of course as soon as I do I will probably get the urge to build the custom exhaust i've been thinking about and will need to start the process again.
I have a fishing trip coming up so soon the bike will have to be put on the side burner until I get back from Maine.
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FISHING! I almost forgot!
I'm going to crank up the boat.
You'd probably get a kick out of it, as the tinkerer you seem to be. My pops and I built a little 16' power dory.
Quote from: Funderb on May 01, 2012, 06:51:01 AM
FISHING! I almost forgot!
I'm going to crank up the boat.
You'd probably get a kick out of it, as the tinkerer you seem to be. My pops and I built a little 16' power dory.
Sweet! I've got a 16' Lowe that was last years project, totally gutted and rebuilt. Long story, but I wish I could have shared it with my dad, it was something he always wanted, enjoy your time with him (and the boat) things can change fast. Anyway, link some picts would love to see it.
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Got some pics up on the plan makers forum:
http://www.glen-l.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13190 (http://www.glen-l.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13190)
this is its maiden voyage in the river here, during the sea trials of the horrible death engine from hell. We've got a better one now. Im sure you know how much attention these outboards require.
Catch something for me while your out!
Quote from: Funderb on May 01, 2012, 10:30:40 AM
Got some pics up on the plan makers forum:
http://www.glen-l.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13190 (http://www.glen-l.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13190)
this is its maiden voyage in the river here, during the sea trials of the horrible death engine from hell. We've got a better one now. Im sure you know how much attention these outboards require.
Catch something for me while your out!
Oh yeah, outboards are like kids. They require so much attention, yet provide so much reward. That boat is awesome! well done on the restore. There's nothing like the rewarding feeling of a project like that.
Looking forward to more updates...
Quote from: bombsquad83 on May 11, 2012, 04:53:41 AM
Looking forward to more updates...
The turn signals finally came in and I think they are going to fit perfectly. Don't have time to post any updates for about another week. When all the craziness ends I will be jumping back onto the project.
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Not much progress on the project. I hope to get back onto everything this coming week. It seems that my new laptop drive a top of the line patriot wildfire decided that it didn't like me after about 28 days of use. So I lost about 20 days of stuff and had to recover. So after much scrambling and a 480g intel 520 ssd replacement my computer is backup and running. The patriot went back to patriot for a refund.
Anyway I am going to be mounting the turn signals this week and will follow up with some additional photos. I will also be scheduling the first (of many) adventure rides into north central PA soon to test out the mods. I hope everyone has been getting some great rides in and I look forward to making/posting progress soon.
After playing with the carbs for a few days I decided to put my stock modified needles back in. The new ones were just a little too lean off throttle and too rich mid opening. So I need something that is a little thinner and that has a little less taper. For now my modified stock needles are working well. My modified needles are just working so well from idle all the way to 8k from there things seem a little leaner but honestly the power I want is all down low anyway so I may just stick with the modified needles.
When I have time I want to take them out and shoot some photos and measure them so for comparison. Honestly at this point I just want to get out and put some miles on this thing (other then my weekly 200mile highway ride to DC) I have grown to really hate driving in traffic.
Hope everyone has a great weekend and gets some riding in!
OK I have been doing a lot of riding lately. So after a long ride on road/off road fishing trip combo I decided that it is time to tear into the engine and check my valves. It turns out as I have been suspecting, a few of my valves are too tight. Since there are more then enough valve adjusting threads out there I am not going to post many images.
I have about 2000 miles on the bike with all the mods in place. I have to say the new springs are really doing well. I had about 100 miles of mountain twisties the other day and I cannot believe how well this bike handles for what it is. I am not dragging knees but this bike just loves to eat up mountain roads. I found the limits of the dual sport tires by hitting a 10mph hairpin at about 30mph and did a nice little 2 wheel drift. Even while drifting the bike feels totally controllable.
AFA offroad, it is much better with the new springs. The bike still bottoms on bad bumps with my tank bag and full gas. I may add a little more preload to help this. Although I don't want to mess up the road manors too much. After I finish the valves I will re-measure the sag on the front and maybe add some preload.
I may be a bit late on the praise, but thats a pretty sweet looking setup, i showed a bunch of my friends and they want one to haha! that looks like a great bike to take out on fishing trips! :D
Thanks, it's been a fun project. I have been busy riding it all over the place the past few weeks and it's been great.
After adjusting my valves I ended up going back to the new needles that I purchased. I think with a little more tweaking these will almost be perfect. I was stupid for not checking my valve clearance first. But I was a bit rushed with work and other projects looming, but it turns out all the valve were n the tight side and two were under spec
OK More progress to report on the Bike. sorry for the thread Resurrection but I wanted to keep this all together.
My fuel tank started leaking at the end of last season. So I drained the gas and knew I would have to find another tank before spring. Well after cruising ebay for a few weeks I finally found a reasonably priced donor. Since I already had a complete POR15 kit in my shop I decided to look for something used that I could refurbish. Why not refurbish the old tank? the P.O. already botched that and it is too far gone. I ended up with finding one from a newer 2004 model with the larger capacity for 50$. It was rusted inside but not too bad so it is currently sitting in my basement with a coating of POR15 curing inside.
I am still not totally satisfied with the front shocks, but they are a work in progress.
Glad you are back. Looking forward to more progress on the project.
There is another guy on the forums recently who put a DR350 front end on his GS. I'll look it up and get you a link.
EDIT: Found it. It was a DR650.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=61927.0
Thanks for the link, I will be watching his progress to see where he goes with it.
Mate I love your work! I rebuilt my '82 450 as a sort of scrambler, but didn't raise it or anything and after finishing it I'm not game to take it off road as I don't want to scratch the paint or ceramic coating off the headers... :oops:
I really like how your 500 turned out though, looks like it'd be a bunch of fun!
Keep up the reports and updates and pictures! Yours is my favorite GS project!
Thanks guys, There's not much to post right now since I have to wait for the weather to turn to begin the sanding and painting of my new tank and my old plastics. I will try to get some picks of the new (to me) tank with its seal coat. I was going to paint it but after smelling por15 for the past few weeks I think I will wait for some warm days to do it outside. Otherwise I may end up a single man after the entire family gets doped from the smell of paint :sad:
I think I am going flat black on everything with some gloss accents on the tank. This will also give me the chance to paint the frame and clean up some electrical issues.
I guess I am going to stick with standard engine paint for fuel resistance and cost. I could go get a 2 part from the paint shop but I didn't want to put that much money into paint that I would be worried about scratching. I thought about using bed liner but I just don't know how resistant it would be to ethanols. So I will stick with a standard engine enamel in flat black and use semi gloss clear to add some accents. I will use the clear and put some design on the side of the tank and the plastics.
OK just ordered 4 of these from element14 for about 3$ a piece. The idea is to replace my missing lenses in my indicator panel with something more modern looking. They are LED panel mount indicators they will replace the stock light sockets and bulbs with LEDs.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/4081274.jpg)
I got
Red - for Oil Press indicator
Yellow - Turn Signal
2x Green - High Beam, Neutral Indicator
They don't have these in blue, and I wanted all the faces to match.
Quote from: Manaenrc on January 04, 2013, 11:14:01 AM
OK just ordered 4 of these from element14 for about 3$ a piece. The idea is to replace my missing lenses in my indicator panel with something more modern looking. They are LED panel mount indicators they will replace the stock light sockets and bulbs with LEDs.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/4081274.jpg)
I got
Red - for Oil Press indicator
Yellow - Turn Signal
2x Green - High Beam, Neutral Indicator
They don't have these in blue, and I wanted all the faces to match.
I had the same idea but haven't bothered with it since I can't ride any more.Please post a pic when you have it done.
OK I said I would post some pictures and I got some goodies the other day sooo.... here you go..
I received the LED indicators the other day and they look great, even better then I imagined they would.
Here is the packaging
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/img_20130110_113612.jpg)
and here is the face of the red one. It has a very nice aluminum bevel. I tried it in the mounting hole. There will be a little bit of play but the bevel covers the hole well so I will just use a rubber grommet to take up some space between the face plate and the LED's
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/img_20130110_114514.jpg)
So here is a couple pics of the tank that I picked up on ebay. The price was right but it did need some work. I already had a POR15 kit with the 3 part treatment so I went to work a few weeks ago to clean the tank. I started with a wash and a bucket full of bolts in the tank to knock loose the rust. Then the acid wash, the primer, and finally the POR15 coating. It took way longer then I expected however I hope this lasts.
Here is the tank after treatment
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/img_20130110_113721.jpg)
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/img_20130110_113750.jpg)
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/img_20130110_113728.jpg)
Then yesterday I stopped by the local parts place and picked up the paint for the project. I know I said I was going to do a flat black with gloss highlights however I found a few other options. I just hope it doesn't come out looking like it needs a set of fuzzy pink dice....
Here's the paint..
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/img_20130110_1138441.jpg)
And I saw this on the shelf which I think may look cool in the correct layout and proportions.
(http://rusty.amtassociates.com/wp-content/gallery/motorcycleproject/img_20130110_1139181.jpg)
Anyway the paint will go like this....
VHT Flat black Ceramic 1200-2000F - Headers/ exhaust
Primer - LOL, if you don't know I'm not sayen' :icon_razz:
VHT Engine Metalic Black Pearl - This will be my base coat for everything Plastic and all.
Clear Coat Shimmer effect - I will use this to design the graphics over the base coat
Then the idea is that the flame tape will border the graphics.
I am not sure what graphic pattern I am going to put into the bike, I may just stick with the stock pattern with the new colors.
The jury is still out on the shimmer, if it comes off looking like something jessica simson would put on her face then it will be removed promptly.
Good luck! It'll be interesting to see how that turns out...
The POR15 kit is great, did my 450 tank with it and it solved all the minor rust issues I had. The only tip I can give is too late now but hopefully you did it anyway... follow the instructions to the letter and make 1000% sure the tank is dry before the liner goes in :)
Quote from: peteGS on January 10, 2013, 12:19:20 PM
Good luck! It'll be interesting to see how that turns out...
The POR15 kit is great, did my 450 tank with it and it solved all the minor rust issues I had. The only tip I can give is too late now but hopefully you did it anyway... follow the instructions to the letter and make 1000% sure the tank is dry before the liner goes in :)
Yeah I used an old hair dryer to circulate air in the tank for a few hours before applying the por15. During that drying process I also kept rotating the tank. It seems that this tank design is very difficult to get clean and dry. There are just so many low spots and difficult to reach areas. I'm sure that is part of the reason that these things are rusting like this. Water is settling into the low spots and staying there since they are lower then the petcock. They must also be made out of very low quality steel to rust like this. I've just never saw fuel tanks that are this prone to rusting out in such a short time.
When I put the por15 in there I slowly rotated the tank to coat the entire surface but it is hard to tell if everything is coated. If I had it to do again I would go and get one of those mechanics mirrors. This would have allowed me to check all the surfaces and make sure I had a complete application. It took the entire can, so I assume that it is coated well inside. I may still go get one of those mirrors and check it, then order a small can of por15 to coat any areas I may have missed.
It really is an Achilles heel of the bike.
In my experience, as evidenced in my build thread, I completely agree with you on the GS tank.
Really enjoying this. Keep up the good work :thumb:
Quote from: Manaenrc on January 10, 2013, 12:55:08 PM
Quote from: peteGS on January 10, 2013, 12:19:20 PM
Good luck! It'll be interesting to see how that turns out...
The POR15 kit is great, did my 450 tank with it and it solved all the minor rust issues I had. The only tip I can give is too late now but hopefully you did it anyway... follow the instructions to the letter and make 1000% sure the tank is dry before the liner goes in :)
Yeah I used an old hair dryer to circulate air in the tank for a few hours before applying the por15. During that drying process I also kept rotating the tank. It seems that this tank design is very difficult to get clean and dry. There are just so many low spots and difficult to reach areas. I'm sure that is part of the reason that these things are rusting like this. Water is settling into the low spots and staying there since they are lower then the petcock. They must also be made out of very low quality steel to rust like this. I've just never saw fuel tanks that are this prone to rusting out in such a short time.
When I put the por15 in there I slowly rotated the tank to coat the entire surface but it is hard to tell if everything is coated. If I had it to do again I would go and get one of those mechanics mirrors. This would have allowed me to check all the surfaces and make sure I had a complete application. It took the entire can, so I assume that it is coated well inside. I may still go get one of those mirrors and check it, then order a small can of por15 to coat any areas I may have missed.
It really is an Achilles heel of the bike.
Excellent, same process I did but the 450 tank is a little less complicated.
Also, I got the motorcycle tank repair kit and they supply one of those little telescopic mirrors in the kit you use for that, it was very handy!
Subscribed!!!
Very cool build thread. Thanks for posting.
Anything new on this project ??.
Here is the one I built for my wife to ride to Deadhorse in June.Not as much off road as yours but should work good in the mud and gravel.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/05/uqujuza7.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/05/y7agataz.jpg)
Here are the front tires we are running.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/05/synaqe7e.jpg)
Looks good NW! What are the side cases though?
Seahorse 720's,about $45 each shipped !!.
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Well our GS has covered about 800 miles of dirt so far on our 6,000 mile Alaskan trip and did great.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/08/ny3u5aje.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/08/4a3a4yqe.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/08/my8edaju.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/08/a2u2u3ad.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/08/etamu7a5.jpg)
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